Okay I'm a new guy here and I was wondering if it is possible to turn an '96 Infiniti I30 from auto into manual transmission? If so how much work goes into it?

 

Wrong subforum, and this has been covered many many times.

http://www.dynomagic.com/5spd_conversion.htm

 

Would a 350z intake manifold fit on a VQ30 or just the VQ35?

 

...VG35?

You can fit the Z33 IM on the VQ30, but is it worth the time, cost, and fab? No, IMO.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...os-inside.html

 

So have been throwing the infamous p0171 code and decided to replace the MAF sensor. Car was surging when cold as if I were trying to take off in 3rd gear, no power after 4k rpm. Since replacing the car doesnt want to idle without stalling. I read somewhere that the ECM may need reprogramming/idle re-learn. I haven't tried the re-learn yet, but wondering if this alone should resolve this issue? Are there any other symptoms that would indicate the need to rerprogram? The MAF is also used (bought from a guy here) that said all was working ok.

Thanks

 

Just wanted to give you a heads up, the idle re-learn is a different procedure from ECU reprogramming. I replaced my MAF and the replacement OEM MAF I received had a note in the box stating that the ECU should be updated. I had it updated 18 months prior to replacing MAF and therefore I believe I had the latest software available and didn't have any problems. There have been many discussions where others have not had updates and have and have not had problems. Do a search for those discussions.

I suggest doing the idle re-learn and see how things turn out. You may want to disconnect the battery for 12 hours prior to doing the re-learn. This will clear the ECU.

 

Well Im kinnda stuck....just took my car in for the check engine light and the charcoal canister need to be replaced....so happy the light is off a week later the light just came back on.....pissed off went back to the dealer and found out it was somthing else HO2S12 maximum voltage not met they say is running lean on bank 1...dealer wont touch it until I take the race only headers off and put the stock stuff back on with the cats..and after a 12 hour install thats not going to happen....
So I know its not the headers (unless its leaking at the head) so I thinking it might be injectors or somthing causeing a lean fuel mixture on bank 1. Now I have a little exta money to put into the car and wanted to upgrade the fuel system any ways. I found 480cc injectors and a 255lph fuel pump but no fuel rails was wondering if a 350z fuel rails will fit on my engine with out any modifications...I forgot to say I have a 2003 maxima.
So if any one can help before I send away for the injectors that would be great Thanks

 

Hello,
I got a check engine light and the computer reader revealed a possible gas cap leak. Since it's not loose, the first step for me is to replace the gas cap, and I'm wondering if it has to be a Nissan gas cap or will something at Pep Boys or AutoZone do the trick? Thanks. -LJ

 

Thanks for your reply. I found out that the threading was incorrect, and I just had to turn the bolt the other way .

Mine actually did fit, the threading was just wrong. So you can still go for the ebay strut bars lol.

 

What 'threading' are you referring to?

All of the strut studs should be regular threads.

 

hey there! i've got an 01 maxima. i have had problems with my bose system as well! the amp in the rear sub is messed up! so i plan to replace that or find another stock bose amp? unless you have another suggestion? also, when i bought the car, the O2 sensor was bad. took it in a few times to figure out what it was, dumbasses just cleaned it with carpet cleaner ruining it even more. my maxima is now in the shop getting fixed....hope to see it back tommorrow!

 

My mechanic talked to a Nissan mech. who said I likely need a new computer. I went to another mech. who found that it really is the camshaft pos. sensor. The one I had put in was an aftermarket part not made by Nissan. The new (3rd) sensor is a Nissan product. New mech. says the no-nissan sensor didn't "mesh" with the cam sensor. So, I guess from now on I'll only use Nissan parts. I'm still irked tho that the "replacement" sensor only lasted 17K miles when the orig. defective one lasted 80K. Nissan NA was no help. I messed around with them for 10 days before deciding to give up cos it wasn't worth the aggravation.

 

hey guys i just bought myself an 01 max se. im pretty new around cars and i was wondering if i can get some advice on things i should add/change in the car but nothing too expensive lol. any mods that can make it sound nicer and/or faster and/or better on gas milage lol idk but i could really use some suggestions if you can leave the part and what it would do i would really appreciate it lol also im goin 2 college in the fall which is 6 hours away from my house is it a bad idea to drive it for that long or should i take like a break every 2 hours?

 

This is a question that is asked every few hours around here it seems. It's all about budget. For starters, all of us usually get some new rubber and wheels, drop the suspension, tint, etc.

Also, your Maxima has a max driving time of 1.9 hrs with a required 3 hour wait time in between for the car to cool. In all seriousness, why couldn't you drive 6 hrs straight? You could drive until you fall asleep and it wouldn't matter to the car at all.

 

i've always known i had a problem with my a/c since buying the car.. you can hear a clicking every now and again when you turn the a/c on and thats the only time it happens... it blows cool but sometimes it blows hot.. i thought i might have needed a simple recharge.. Its been getting hot here in atlanta lately... 90 degrees today... i was on my was home when i got a strong odor of coolant thru my a/c vents.. when i looked at the temp gauge the car was running extremely hot.. i pulled off for about half hour, opened the hood and let it cool some... it cooled and I continued driving home without my a/c... and the temperature was quite fine with no further problems.. i left it running when i got home and it didnt heat up.. i then turned the ac on and watched the temp rise!!! this is the first time this has happened to me.. im wondering what the problem could be !!

suggestions please

 

haha so it wouldnt matter if i drive 6 hours straight it wont damage the engine or anything? and i got new tires and keepin the stock rims for now and it came with tints lol

 

no it won't damage anything.. just make sure you don't run out of gas

 

Regarding your woofer problem you might want to check this out; http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...01-maxima.html

 

hello i was hoping you might be able to help me out I just got a 02 maxima se auto. the alternator died within 2 months of me buying the car, so i bought another replaced it but now the car wont start, it will turn over but not crank is there any type of security/anti-theft feature that might cause this? the car prior to me replacing the alt would crank as long as i jumped it. but now it doesnt,battery is charged btw. if you have any idea lmk please!

 

Err...how does it turn over without cranking? That doesn't make any logical sense.

Do you mean it'll crank, but it won't turn over? I'll go ahead and assume that.

Does the security light stay on with the key in the ON position, or while cranking? If so, you need to tow it to the dealer.

 

yes it stays on what does it mean?

 

oh crap did the key lose its programming?

 

Well the key never gets programmed, it's a read-only chip.

However, the NATS system is no longer recognizing the key, for whatever reason. First thing I'd try is another key.

You can try to 'reset' the system, though. Turn the key to ON, wait 5 seconds, turn back off. Repeat that two or three times, see if it'll let you start it then.

If the NATS system doesn't detect the right key, and you try to start the car 5 or more times, it'll disable the engine from starting (even with the correct key). The reset procedure above fixes that.

And yes, the last S in NATS stands for 'system', so saying 'NATS system' is like saying 'ATM machine'...but whatever.

 

i really really appreiciate the help man its at the shop now but ill try it when i go there tomorrow morn, is that the only reason it would stay solid? i mean with the key out it does it normal slow blink but when i turn it over it goes solid. i dont have another key so im just hoping that will fix it ill let ya know. btw if i need another key how hard is it to get one? does the dealer have to make them like on a camaro?

 

I've heard reports of people getting their key programmed at a locksmith (I imagine programming the key to the same ID as the old one so they don't have to visit the dealer). To clarify, the keys are read only, but as far as I know they've got a PROM chip; can only write it once. Could be wrong, though.

However for your issue, you would have to get the ECU/NATS reprogrammed to read your keys. For that, you would need a CONSULT-II, and it's unlikely you'll find one outside of a Nissan dealer.

FWIW, regarding the security light:


Also, just for the sake of doing it, here's a CONSULT-II:


Spent a lot of time playing around with it when I was a tech at Nissan...can do a bunch, but sadly not on my car.

 

ok thanks for all the help, last question, any idea of cost? im seriously thinking of returning the car to the dealer, let em keep the thing

 

Probably an hour's labor, somewhere around there. At average dealer cost, probably right around the $100 mark.

 

yea i might just return the car,230$+100$ labor for alt,around 100$ to tow to dealer then 100$ for the reprogram? just got the thing a month ago. i love the car but this is ridiculous, thx for the quick responses tho, saved me alot of headache.

 

I'd try to talk to the sales guy you got the car from, see if he can do anything for you. Failing that, the general manager at the dealership.

If you're coming from a Cavalier, I imagine you'd love the car

 

haha u noticed the name!,thats cold! haha i loved my little cavi, twas featureless and plain but i ran it till the wheels fell off as my DD...and then put em back on and did it again! not to mention its not like parts were expensive or scarce for that little thing. But back to the subject ill look into what they say, ironicly the salesman pissed me off and then the sales manager came out and i didnt get the car till he asssured me the salesman wouldnt see a bit of commission, so technicly the guy selling to me WAS the manager!his names on the paperwork. so ill give him a call and hopefully they can do something. thx for the help ill let you know how this unfolds!

 

so i didnt get my car back like planned.... they put in a new O2 sensor and found more wrong! my whole wiring harness will be replaced next week! fml! originally its $900 for that harness! dont worry....i have warrentee on my car! woot!

 

Sorry I wasn't being clear. I meant the thread on this screw:

 

Got another question about the door hinges and I cant seem to find and answer online.

Are the door hinges from the 96-99 i30s the same as the ones on the 01 i30? All i manage to find online is the hinges to the older model and not my car.

Also, do the hinges fit bot sides? for example, is the top hinge for the drivers side the same as the bottom hinge for the passenger side and vice versa with the other two?

thanks.

 

i've always known i had a problem with my a/c since buying the car.. you can hear a clicking every now and again when you turn the a/c on and thats the only time it happens... it blows cool but sometimes it blows hot.. i thought i might have needed a simple recharge.. Its been getting hot here in atlanta lately... 90 degrees today... i was on my was home when i got a strong odor of coolant thru my a/c vents.. when i looked at the temp gauge the car was running extremely hot.. i pulled off for about half hour, opened the hood and let it cool some... it cooled and I continued driving home without my a/c... and the temperature was quite fine with no further problems.. i left it running when i got home and it didnt heat up.. i then turned the ac on and watched the temp rise!!! this is the first time this has happened to me.. im wondering what the problem could be !!

suggestions please

 

What sounds best is when they don't hear you coming.

 

So after reading about a dozen threads on headlights, I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed with information...

I have a 2000 GLE that I got a few weeks ago. I would like to upgrade my headlights to HID and I'm trying to figure out what my options are. It seems that one way to go is to get the '02-'03 OEM lights and retrofit them using a harness. However, this seems expensive. What other options are available?

I'm interested in a clean look, like on the 5.5 gen Maximas. Are there other [cheaper] options available for replacing my lights with HIDs?

 

You've pretty much got two options; retrofit some projectors, or use a different headlight (such as the A33B).

HID bulbs in halogen housings is just crap, don't even think about doing that.

 

i have a question about my wipers. when i use the intermittent mode, the wiper blades move up to the top, stop there for a few seconds (blocking my vision), and then go back down. This doesn't happen when i use the regular speed or the fast speed. Is there something wrong with my motor? Or what would the problem be?

 

Sounds more like the wiper switch then the motor. If the motor was failing, the wipers would park themselves in the middle of the windshield when you shut them off as well.

 

It's not the A/C. The A/C will shut off automatically when engine temp reaches a certain temp. You have a coolant issue. I would start by replacing the thermostat and giving getting a good coolant flush. Also, check for antifreeze leaks. It doesn't take a lot of antifreeze to smell it.

Do both your radiator fans come on when it's running hot?