5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
'02 shuts off around 5 minutes
Shut-off is instant, no sputter. It does it at almost the same time every cold start-up. If I am stopped when it shuts off, it will start right back up. If I am accelerating at the time of shut-off it is hard to start and will take 3-5 minutes of intermittent cranking.. I attribute this to fuel being dumped into the engine and temporarily flooding it.
Once it starts back up it will run all day without problems.
I tested the codes at Advance (don't remember the actual number) but it was the Cam Position Sensor. Having lots of practice using these codes that is a crap shoot. Could be another cause looking like a cam sensor, maybe not. There are two sensors and at $90+ I don't want to get too carried away replacing them to find out it is something else all together.
The fact that the hard re-start seems to come from too much fuel and shut-off is instantaneous, It sounds like an electrical part shutting off spark.
Since it always happens at the same time I thought it would be a good idea to see if anyone else has ever had the problem. I haven't been able to look at the plugs yet (always the first look of a drive-ability problem) and hope to do that today. Not sure what to expect from inspection though since it doesn't seem to be a problem of old or fouled plugs.
I looked at all the FAQ's, even found out how to point to the original FAQ's. Search sucks, as my topic seemed hard to put into a search. I read a bunch of posts in my search and turned up nothing.
I posted in the 5th Gen Noob post because of the 15 post limit and didn't want to anger anyone by posting 15 replies to up my count.
I'm not really a message board newbie or mechanics newbie, and I hope to make friends here. I will contribute what I can and try to stay out of the way.
Once it starts back up it will run all day without problems.
I tested the codes at Advance (don't remember the actual number) but it was the Cam Position Sensor. Having lots of practice using these codes that is a crap shoot. Could be another cause looking like a cam sensor, maybe not. There are two sensors and at $90+ I don't want to get too carried away replacing them to find out it is something else all together.
The fact that the hard re-start seems to come from too much fuel and shut-off is instantaneous, It sounds like an electrical part shutting off spark.
Since it always happens at the same time I thought it would be a good idea to see if anyone else has ever had the problem. I haven't been able to look at the plugs yet (always the first look of a drive-ability problem) and hope to do that today. Not sure what to expect from inspection though since it doesn't seem to be a problem of old or fouled plugs.
I looked at all the FAQ's, even found out how to point to the original FAQ's. Search sucks, as my topic seemed hard to put into a search. I read a bunch of posts in my search and turned up nothing.
I posted in the 5th Gen Noob post because of the 15 post limit and didn't want to anger anyone by posting 15 replies to up my count.
I'm not really a message board newbie or mechanics newbie, and I hope to make friends here. I will contribute what I can and try to stay out of the way.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,143
From: Communist Wealth of Virginia
That pretty much sums up what you'd have to do though, spdfreak is dead on.
00 max 02 heater code p0155
I just bought a 2000 maxima
First thing I found was that the previous owner had removed the ses light so I replaced it and read the codes and came up with p0141 and p0155. I started by replacing the front two o2's when I put on my y-pipe this weekend. Cleared the codes and p0155 was still coming up (p0141 was as well but that senors heater resistance is to high after checking it)
Checked on the TSB's and read the wire brake problem on the wiring harness by the strut tower. So I went in this morning to try to source out the problem. Went to all data and started to follow step by step there instructions on how to check the sensor before looking for the wire break problem. Sensor resistance checks out ok. It have voltage where it should and there is continuity between pin 2 of the ecu and pin 3 of the o2. So I than switched the two new o2's to just double check that it wasn't an bad new o2. Still got the code with the back o2 in the front.
Now I start removing the harness by the strut tower. pulled the covering off from where it splits out to the back o2 and other sensors to down by where it goes through the fire wall. Found no broken or stripped wires after looking for about an hour. Re covered all the wires and sealed it back up and re checked everything with the scanner. Still getting the p0155. So I cleanned everything up came home and wrote this post.
Any one have any suggestions on what maybe going on or if they think the break could possibly be in another section of the harness that someone else may have found before? All fuses are good in the interior and engine fuse pannles. Didn't have time today but I am thinking or running a new wire from pin 2 to pin 3 and seeing if my problem goes away. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tech123
First thing I found was that the previous owner had removed the ses light so I replaced it and read the codes and came up with p0141 and p0155. I started by replacing the front two o2's when I put on my y-pipe this weekend. Cleared the codes and p0155 was still coming up (p0141 was as well but that senors heater resistance is to high after checking it)
Checked on the TSB's and read the wire brake problem on the wiring harness by the strut tower. So I went in this morning to try to source out the problem. Went to all data and started to follow step by step there instructions on how to check the sensor before looking for the wire break problem. Sensor resistance checks out ok. It have voltage where it should and there is continuity between pin 2 of the ecu and pin 3 of the o2. So I than switched the two new o2's to just double check that it wasn't an bad new o2. Still got the code with the back o2 in the front.
Now I start removing the harness by the strut tower. pulled the covering off from where it splits out to the back o2 and other sensors to down by where it goes through the fire wall. Found no broken or stripped wires after looking for about an hour. Re covered all the wires and sealed it back up and re checked everything with the scanner. Still getting the p0155. So I cleanned everything up came home and wrote this post.
Any one have any suggestions on what maybe going on or if they think the break could possibly be in another section of the harness that someone else may have found before? All fuses are good in the interior and engine fuse pannles. Didn't have time today but I am thinking or running a new wire from pin 2 to pin 3 and seeing if my problem goes away. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Tech123
I am new to this site and I have a question about where the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is locatedon my 2002 GLE. My oxygen sensor went out and I'm planning on doing it myself in order to save money. I think it’s after the catalytic converter but is it on the passenger side. It would be cool if someone had a diagram or a picture. thanks
I am new to this site and I have a question about where the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is locatedon my 2002 GLE. My oxygen sensor went out and I'm planning on doing it myself in order to save money. I think it’s after the catalytic converter but is it on the passenger side. It would be cool if someone had a diagram or a picture. thanks
I will notify the moderator for you. Lets see if there can be an exception to the rule of, 15 posts before you may open a thread.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,143
From: Communist Wealth of Virginia
This is my first post, which i feel is good, i have found everything i need elseware, but i have a question that i just cant find to get answered!
Alright i simply want to change the interior lights of my 2000 Max, I just got a new Alpine Deck and installed everything myself, which is awesome!!, but i just want to change the other lights to make everything flow better, and well.. I'm on college break and want something to pass the time with my newly bought car!
(Climate Control (which is the electronic), Clock, windows/ locks on all doors, etc.
I just really want to know:
A. How many LED's i should order, specific recommendations on size, power etc.
B. What color do you recommend for the interior? I was thinking blue (My deck is the new iDA-X001 and is super bright blue, or red) (recommend it to everyone!)
C. Any helpful things that i should know
Thanks All
Alright i simply want to change the interior lights of my 2000 Max, I just got a new Alpine Deck and installed everything myself, which is awesome!!, but i just want to change the other lights to make everything flow better, and well.. I'm on college break and want something to pass the time with my newly bought car!
(Climate Control (which is the electronic), Clock, windows/ locks on all doors, etc.
I just really want to know:
A. How many LED's i should order, specific recommendations on size, power etc.
B. What color do you recommend for the interior? I was thinking blue (My deck is the new iDA-X001 and is super bright blue, or red) (recommend it to everyone!)
C. Any helpful things that i should know
Thanks All

Dome
DE3175
Step/Courtesy light
161
Awesome,
Yeah, i just want something other than the green to make everything flow a bit better. I will definitly check that out and also the group deal.
Anyone know the type of LED's used in the climate control, clock, and windows?!
I appreciate it!
Yeah, i just want something other than the green to make everything flow a bit better. I will definitly check that out and also the group deal.
Anyone know the type of LED's used in the climate control, clock, and windows?!
I appreciate it!
Last edited by tibal; Jan 7, 2008 at 08:32 AM.
Just got my Berk Intake in the mail today, (2002 max) and am anxious to get it installed. Unfortunately, my Dad, who would normally be the one doing the installation, is still in China on a business trip. Dont want to pay to get it installed, and dont want to wait either. Between me and my brother, we shouldnt have a problem, but at the same time, i don't want to mess anything up.
The instructions that came with the intake seem to be suited for people who know cars, so was wondering if anyone could provide me with some help with the installation. (pictures of where everythings located, tools i should use for each step, etc.) Thanks in advance.
The instructions that came with the intake seem to be suited for people who know cars, so was wondering if anyone could provide me with some help with the installation. (pictures of where everythings located, tools i should use for each step, etc.) Thanks in advance.
Just got my Berk Intake in the mail today, (2002 max) and am anxious to get it installed. Unfortunately, my Dad, who would normally be the one doing the installation, is still in China on a business trip. Dont want to pay to get it installed, and dont want to wait either. Between me and my brother, we shouldnt have a problem, but at the same time, i don't want to mess anything up.
The instructions that came with the intake seem to be suited for people who know cars, so was wondering if anyone could provide me with some help with the installation. (pictures of where everythings located, tools i should use for each step, etc.) Thanks in advance.
The instructions that came with the intake seem to be suited for people who know cars, so was wondering if anyone could provide me with some help with the installation. (pictures of where everythings located, tools i should use for each step, etc.) Thanks in advance.
start doing it then ask here if you have questions.
Had the same issue, your ECU is probably cooked. Nissan usually are the only ones that can re-program you a new one, I was lucky enough to find someone local that could re-program mine after replacing the IACV.
To be sure that it's not the MAF, try starting the car with it hooked up, or better yet start it and then unplug it to see if it effects your idling.
To be sure that it's not the MAF, try starting the car with it hooked up, or better yet start it and then unplug it to see if it effects your idling.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,143
From: Communist Wealth of Virginia
I put "sts mod" in search and came up with a bunch of threads. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=sts+mod
I have been having trouble with my ac belt squeaking after i got them replaced about a week ago. I went back to the mechanic and he sprayed some lubricant on the part of area that makes the sound when i start the ac. But this was only a temporary fix after about half a day the squeaking started again. I know its not the belts that are squeaking, its the thing that starts turning when you turn on the ac. I think that i can fix it by using some kind of lubricant but i want to know what kid is good that will not wash off or wear off after a few days like WD40. I was thinking of some kind of grease but i don't know what kind. Any other info is also helpful. TIA
You sure he didn't just hit the belt with belt dressing? Lube on a friction plate like in the A/C clutch is a bad thing. Like phatboislim said, tighten the belt. Belts will often stretch a bit after initial install and is normal to need re-torquing. If the factory doesn't spray the belts then why should a shadetree mechanic?
does any body have a pic of Cosmo Racing intake for 02-03?
send to me at dao82@shaw.ca or post it here, thanks very much.
send to me at dao82@shaw.ca or post it here, thanks very much.
You sure he didn't just hit the belt with belt dressing? Lube on a friction plate like in the A/C clutch is a bad thing. Like phatboislim said, tighten the belt. Belts will often stretch a bit after initial install and is normal to need re-torquing. If the factory doesn't spray the belts then why should a shadetree mechanic?
my maintenance skills are pretty minimal and i'm wondering if anyone can suggest when spark plugs and wires should be replaced. my car is just over 90k miles and i've noticed recently that i might be 1-2 mpg lower than what i'm used to. local shops are saying because it's so time consuming to replace the spark plugs on the '02 maximas that labor added to parts will approach $500. i'd rather not spend this unless it's necessary.
otherwise, anyone know of someone in the minneapolis area that is able to do this on the side for cheaper?
otherwise, anyone know of someone in the minneapolis area that is able to do this on the side for cheaper?
An '02 doesn't have wires (DIS) but the plugs are supposed to last 100,000k. Is a mile or 2 mpg wort $500? Thats up to you. I think this site has a regional location that you may find people that will work on it. The upper intake plenum has to come off to get at the rear and is very time consuming. There is a pictorial how-to I read in the sticky's that would help you a long way. If your maint skills are pretty minimal, I wouldn't touch it alone. Too much to go wrong with such a complex job. I would be glad to do it for you but alas...GA is a long way away.. I'll see if I can find the thread for you. Search sucks being a newbie.
my maintenance skills are pretty minimal and i'm wondering if anyone can suggest when spark plugs and wires should be replaced. my car is just over 90k miles and i've noticed recently that i might be 1-2 mpg lower than what i'm used to. local shops are saying because it's so time consuming to replace the spark plugs on the '02 maximas that labor added to parts will approach $500. i'd rather not spend this unless it's necessary.
otherwise, anyone know of someone in the minneapolis area that is able to do this on the side for cheaper?
otherwise, anyone know of someone in the minneapolis area that is able to do this on the side for cheaper?
Smashed Screen
Hey guys, I've got a little problem. I've got a '03 SE with a 6-CD changer that was having the speaker cutout issue.<dumbass> I got mad and hit the screen </dumbass> . Would an electronics store be able to replace the screen or am I screwed and need a new unit. Thanks for any help.
I heard a lot of people are saying that 2000-2003 Maxima's have "Black Box" in them.
"Black Box" - prevents from going maximum speed. Limits the speed of the car.
IS THIS CORRECT OR THE PEOPLE ARE AS*** FOR SPEADING THIS RUMMOR?
I'm asking this, because a lot of people tell me that I can't reach 140MPH, after I posted 100MPH+ run on www.youtube.com. Gone 135MPH about 3 years ago and nobody believes me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEYQ7fj-B6Q
"Black Box" - prevents from going maximum speed. Limits the speed of the car.
IS THIS CORRECT OR THE PEOPLE ARE AS*** FOR SPEADING THIS RUMMOR?

I'm asking this, because a lot of people tell me that I can't reach 140MPH, after I posted 100MPH+ run on www.youtube.com. Gone 135MPH about 3 years ago and nobody believes me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEYQ7fj-B6Q
Hey guys, I've got a little problem. I've got a '03 SE with a 6-CD changer that was having the speaker cutout issue.<dumbass> I got mad and hit the screen </dumbass> . Would an electronics store be able to replace the screen or am I screwed and need a new unit. Thanks for any help.
Try this place for some more knowledge on the subject (new deck):
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=21
There is a TSB or something similar on it, but from what I've seen, it is only a temporary fix (dealer fixed the problem, only to have it return). And in your case, they might charge you since there is physical damage.
Im looking to get a quaife atb for my 02 max. I notice that quaife offers one differential for the max but does not specify which gen it fits, are all gens the same? Also, there are no shops in my area that I trust to install something like this, has anyone had luck having a dealer install a quaife? I know thats a pricey proposal. Is the quaife worth it? Is it possible to get the OEM LSD (helical?) installed by the dealer on an 02 max?
Thanks alot.
Thanks alot.





