That wasn't programming, it was a lockout reset procedure.

Well at least it's fixed now. Though kind of odd that you didn't notice the transponder chip missing when going through diagnostics...

 

Hello everyone,
I have a 2003 Maxima GLE with 194k km & the left front wheel bearing has just gone. Was amazed how quickly it went from OK, to real bad grinding sound. Had to leave the car in town and go back the next day with the trailer to fetch it as I didn't want to risk the rest of the drive home (about 60km). Had the right one replaced last year, but decided to go back to fixing my own car this time.

Bough the Haynes book just for reference and was fed up when it said "Take off hub and take to garage"! I don't know why I bother with them anymore, the last few manuals I've got have been pretty dismal.

So checked on-line and found this forum via the www.motorvate.ca site. I think I've looked at all the front wheel bearing topics repair topics here now (although I admit I haven't read all 200+ pages of this topic).

As near as I can figure, either I take the whole hub off and press things out with a press (don't have one, but have been wanting to make one up for a while), or I can do it one the car with some sort of puller as shown on the motorvate site (e.g. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/706).

My main question is whether the '03 bearing/hubs are the same (or similar enough) to the '95 ones on the Motorvate site.

I'd welcome any other suggestions, or experience.

I've got to clear things out of the shop and then I'm hoping to get started into this later today or tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

cheers,
Andrew

 

Suspension/steering wise, not much really changed between the 4th and 5.5 gens. You can use the same process for both.

 

well seems like i cant make my own thread so ill ask away in here ....

car is an 03 auto with 115k on it ...

if im cruising and RPMS are about 2k maybe a little more or less i get this rattling sound its not heat shields as i have already checked ...if i step on the gas to make rpms go little higher noise goes away ...someone said maybe bad gas or cheap gas as i was using 87 but i changed to 89 and 93 and noise still there ...any help ?

2nd questions is my car has all the options will a new speedo cluster but without TCS work in my car ? or do i need to get one with all options ?

 

I have the standard 17" wheels on the 2001 max non se. My rear rotors are gone and want to replace all of the breaks for better performance. I dont want them to make noise though. What is my best bet for performance? Go factory and get lower quality compared to some yet little noise or go aftermarket? What brands does everyone like that are not brembo?

 

Need a DIY on automatic transmission fluid change.

Saw that there is one for manual trannys, but like I said, mine is automatic.

 

If you actually search, or look in the stickies, you'll find the DIY you want.

From the very first post of this thread:








http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html

 

I need some help.

I'm going to be wiring up a Emanage Blue into my ECU (A33) on my 2003 G35 Sedan. It has the same ECU as the 2002/2003 Max.

Nobody in the G35 world uses the Emanage Blue as there are much more appropriate and better options for tuning.

Since I have the earlier ECU, I'm planning on using the BLUE. I'm staying NA.

I'm looking for some help with wiring and general knowledge about the Emanage.

Thanks.

-John

 

It's not the same ECU. The form factor may be the same, but the ECUs are different.

Auto or manual? Type 1 or 2?

I assume an auto, type 1 due to you saying the pinout is like the A33B?

Why not just go EU? It's much better than the EB.

Anyway, what exactly do you need help with? The more important pinouts are in my sticky in AM, everything else you need is in the FSM.

Are you looking for instructions on how to cut/solder wires, or...?

 

Auto(5AT), I dont know if its Type 1 or 2.


I'm looking at finding a way to tune my car. I was told the BLUE would work just fine for NA.

I don't even know which wires came with it...it seems that there are some optional wires.

Where is your sticky? I didnt see it, although I did quite a bit of searching around.

 

As I said, in the AM section: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...0-px-wide.html

What do you mean you don't know what wires come with it? Everything you need to know is in the installation manual.

The EB will work, it's just not as nice as the EU. It's also very nice to not have to rely on some proprietary crap for a cable.

 

so for the BLUE cable is proprietary but the EU is not?

The guy I bought the emanage from didnt send the manual with it. I found one online to look at.

There are only 2 connection ports in the BLUE. Connector 1 came with it. It has 9 wires installed already. It came with 9 other wires that are optional to connect into the harness.

Connector 2 did not come with it. It has 12 available wires on the connector.

Also, in my readings I have been told by several people that DIODEs need to be inline with the wiring of the ignition coils.

 

Yes, the EB has a specific USB-serial cable. The EU uses a standard A-B USB cable.

What do you mean 9 wires 'installed'? The cables should come with everything already inserted into the connector, at least every single GReddy product I've seen has.

Diodes aren't necessarily necessary. I've seen cases where they were, and a lot where they aren't. You can either install them as a preventative measure, or just wait and see whether or not you'll need them.

 

how do you tell whether or not it is "necessary" to have the diodes?

I'll take a picture of the cable "as I got it"

 

The problem people were having was either codes or fried coils, I don't remember which.

When I made a living working on G35s and 350zs, I installed several EUs...only one or two needed the diodes.

 

Would I ruin my coils right off I ended up having a problem? I just replaced them and really don't want to fry them if I can avoid that. Was there a cause found that was making them fry?

Here are a couple pics of the wiring harness(es) that came with my eManage.

 

I know they were having KOEO coil frying issues, I can't remember if it was a running issue as well.

Though last I had heard, the issue was fixed in a software revision.

Ruin them immediately, doubtful.

 

So is that wiring harness that I got more than just one...are the additional wires for ignition or injectors?


If not, am I in need of the ignition or injector harnesses? 15900901 15900902 are the part numbers on -
http://www.greddy.com/products/displ...SubCategory=48


I'm just wanting to have a decent tune NA

 

You'll have to look at the the EB pinout and the connector to determine what the removed wires do. It should not come like that from GReddy, whoever you bought it from must've removed them.

The ignition harness is sold separately, if you wanted to control timing, you'd need that. If you don't, then disregard what I said about coils and diodes.

Now that I look at it, those other wires are used to control the injectors (see page 23 of the installation manual).

The right side of the connector is all power/ground/MAF/RPM, the left side is all injectors.

 

Ok, so the wires in the connector are the "main" harness and the wires that are not installed are the injector wires. I'm assuming that the Ignition harness would come with a seperate connector because with these injector wires installed there is no more room.

The guy I bought this from never used this. he bought a greddy TT kit and is using a haltech standalone.

I'm sure it will be important to control timing to get a proper tune with what i have as far as bolt-ons. I guess I will need to get that.

 

Indeed, the ignition harness goes to the second connector on the unit. Apparently you can use an FC RX-7 radio harness cut from the dash as an ignition harness, same connector.

Also note you'll need the support tool to do any 'actual' tuning, otherwise you might as well just have a Neo or similar.

 

I guess I need to pick up one of the Ignition Harnesses.

Will I need to have the support tool just for basic install as well? Or will it remain running off the factory ECU alone until I connect it to the support tool?

TTRANK (g35driver) has a fully built sedan, probably the best built sedan I've seen. he had it tuned by Tony at UMS here in Phoenix, AZ. Thats who I plan on having tune it for me. I'm sure he'll get more out of it than I. I'm just getting into the car scene. Still consider myself a newbie but I'm getting pretty good. I do almost all the work myself, just not gonna do a tune myself...especially since I dont have a dyno.

 

As long as it's not set to adjust the AFR any, it'll be fine. Just don't fiddle with the adjustment ***** too much.

 

do you know if the rotaries for the BLUE are supposed to be set on 7-0-1 for the 3.5 like it is for the 3.0?

 

I believe so, but not sure.

Have you searched on G35driver?

 

I dont know anybody on driver who actually uses the BLUE for tuning.

I talked to Greddy though. Since this came from a G35 TT kit it should physically already be set. However, I will need to get the support tool to reflash it back to stock so that it doesn't run awful.

They told me that the ignition harness isn't compatible with the G35...based on the ignition coils melting.

 

My ABS light is on, the code is telling me it's the R.Rear sensor open. Has anyone had this problem? The sensor is $140 and I don't want to replace it only to find the problem is somewhere else. If anyone had an experience with this, I coild use some advise.

 

Again, have you or have you not tested the harness all the way back to the ABS control unit?

You're asking your question in three different places, that's just going to lead to confusion. No one's going to bother to view everywhere else you've asked it to see what you already have or have not done.

Keep it in one place.

 

Sorry but I don't have enough posts to start my own thread on this. I belong to another Forum and it's not as difficult on the GM side. Anyway, I only checked the signal at the sensor. How do you check the signal at the ABS control unit? Is there a diagram to describe what pins are for what sensors?

 

Again, you did not mention your year, and you've still neglected to put it in your profile.

What do you have, a 2000?

For a 2000, the pinout for the wheel sensors is on BR-46 of the FSM.

 

I've got one!
I'm picking up an 02 today. Bought it on Saturday. I really only have 3 real questions that I am having difficulty finding out.
1.) The 02 that I'm picking up has the DataDots stickers. Im assuming the previous owner already bought the car in for the recall. Has this recall substantially help reduce the theft of our headlights/HIDs?
2.) Aside from MAFs issues, I've read that there are oil leaks on the 3.5. What is usually the main reason why they leak, and is there anything I can do, other than general maintenance, to prevent the leaks?

 

Data Dots do nothing to prevent theft, they're for identification/recovery.

The VQ35 is more prone to burning oil than leaking it. About the only 'usual' oil leaks you'll see are the rear plug tube seals leaking out into the tube. For that, just get an A34 valve cover (if you want more info, search, there have been dozens of threads on the topic).

 

I have the 2001 Maxima, what is BR-46 of the FSM. Where can I get a copy. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Page 46 of the Brake section.

My sig, my website, my thread in General, or just search the org. The link is all over the place.

 

ill bump my question up ...also do i have to PM someone to let me start a thread ??i have the 15 posts but still cant start a thread

 

Anybody know where i can purchase an o2 simulater dual output?

Thx

 

Yep, right here: http://tinyurl.com/mow2ab

 

 

I have searched this forum and i havent found a direct answer for my question. Point me to a thread if necc.

I have a 2000 Maxima se with cloth seats in it. I have felt and noticed some type of plug underneath the seat before but never paid too much attention. someone is selling the power seats out of a 2000 I30 and I wanted to know if the maxima would be able to just plug and play into the I30's seats.

The maximas seats are cloth but like i said there is some sort of plug with a white end under the seat. Im currently having the air compressor replaced so i wont be able to look at the car until after 5 today, but if anyone has done this or seen this done could you be a life saver and enlighten me. Thank you

 

My SES light has been on for a while now but every now and then when it will stay off for the first 10 miles or so after I've started the car. I hooked it up to the computer and it showed codes P1147 and a P0158. I realize that these are the two downstream O2 sensors but I'm wondering if I may have a legitimate issue or if the the sensors are just broken and I should replace them. Does anyone have any advice on what I should do? Thanks in advance...