^^ Get a Stillen or JWT.

 

so the hyper-r is a load of crap?

 

Alright i need to know if ive screwed this up bad.

I have a Harmon Kardon Drive+Play, but discovered that i couldnt go with the hard wired AUX input on my 2k3 Max with Bose In dash 6cd no navi. It was a debate to get something else or stick with it. I decided to order the USA Spec PA11-NIS. Ive ordered it from a site (audioutfitter.com), and when i checked at crutchfield, it says it wont work for my setup? Id rather not have a FM transmitter, wired or not. I figured the PA11-NIS worked for my setup? Some guidance would be much appreciated. Im basically looking for the best sound coming straight from the BOSE 6CD changer system ive got, i dont wanna rip it out. However in the ice cold in Canada where i am, the cd's will barely play till the car gets nice and warm, with my ipod i never have a problem.

Damn this was easier when i didnt care about my factory chrysler stereo lol

 

See berktechnology.com..........Injen is ridiculously expensive and berk gives you a choice of filters.

 

This was not an issue with my 99 max, but I have been told that putting in a CAI will void the warranty on the car. This would be a big problem for me and my 2003 that only has 19k on it. Is there any truth to this statement or is complete bull?

Also, have any of you installed the mushroom/dome filters?
<img src="http://www.simota.com/images/fi_mushroom/fi_mushroom_01.jpg">
I like the unique look. Any takes on it's performance as opposed to the cones?

Thanks!

 

Thanks for helping us newbs with this thread. Have 00 Max GLE with stock 16/6.5 wheels with 40mm offset (per owners manual). Need new rubber and would like to dress the car up a bit. Local tire dealer has a set of OEM 17/7 wheels with 35mm offset - those specs suggest they are from a 6th gen Maxima. OM shows the 17/7 option for the 00 had a 45mm offset. I've not only read, but studied the tire/wheel threads on this site (great, btw!) and gone to all the wheel calculators and am left with the understanding that going from 16/6.5 with 40mm offset to 17/7 with 35mm offset will: 1) decrease clearance from strut housing to wheel by 1mm, and 2) extend the edge of the wheel outward by 11mm. Don't know whether this is 1) safe, and 2) a bad/radical look, especially for a 42 year old (I know, I know, it's all personal preference, but I'm looking for some honest feedback here - I just don't have any sense of whether 11mm is a little or a lot).

Many thanks for the community's collective wisdom.

 

it is entirely untrue that it will void any warranty unless they can conclusively prove that a problem was caused directly by the aftermarket intake. This is laid out in law by the Magnuson-Moss Act

It's long, but worth a read if you are worried about this stuff:

http://www.free-lemon-law-guide.com/...n-moss-act.php

I find two things:
1. An intake is easy to remove. If you have a problem under warranty that has ANYTHING to do with the engine, save yourself the hassle and just put the stock one back in. It will save you much argument with STUPID dealer techs.
2. Carry a copy of the M-M Act in your glovebox when you go to get warranty work done. It's nice for leverage, and the dealers DO know what it is...

Why is this a "big problem" might I ask?

 

also, to post pictures, don't use <img src> like you're on myspace or something. On bulletin boards like this use [IMG] link, with no quote markes [/IMG] like so:




those look like poor-quality foam filters. Spend a bit more and get an Apexi.

 

1. It's perfectly safe
2. It looks good. I actually run:
a) winter wheels 17x7.5 30 offest
b) summer wheels 18x8 30 offset
c) track wheels 17x8 35 offset

The lower offset will bring the outer edge of the wheel closer to the edge of the wheel well and improves both looks and handling.

In my opinion, 30-35mm offset is IDEAL for a 7" wide rim on the maxima.

Take a look at my cardomain site to see the "flushness" of my setups, if you want.

 

1. its standard html, not just myspace
2. they are indeed foam, im looking for a company that would make a higher quality cotton dome one, besides weapon-r. like i said, i like the look i just dont want to sacrifice quality for it.
3. the warranty thing is only an issue because i've had some awesome previous experiences like blown tranny after 700 miles off the stealership lot on my 99 automatic. Also the starter went pretty soon in life in that car. These things are nice to have under warranty.

 

greddy and hks make a more expensive version, still layered polyurethane foam however.

 

I know....was just making fun of you a bit

another possible issue is fit. The clearances are pretty tight for the filters. Back when I had teh frankencar short-ram the Apexi filter just barely fit in the available space (and rubbed the side of the inner fender).

 

I had frankencar in the 99 which had alot more room. It was a little long and had to go into the fender a ways. but im good at jamming things into tight spaces, thats what she said this one might a too wide. have to measure.

 

Thanks for the feedback on 17-inch wheels and the 35mm offset. Now, what's the real collective wisdom on the issue of 235/45s on 7-inch rims?

I see the manufacturer's don't recommend it and have read the technical reasons why it isn't the way the tire was designed to work, but lots of folks seem to be doing it - it's just unclear what (if any) negative real world (vs. calculated/theoretical) impacts there are on tire safety (I see that there are no known incidents from this practice) and on tire life. If I'm an only sometimes "spirited" driver and never will push the car or tires to anywhere near their real limits, is this an issue?

 

I've been on 17x7 stocks w/235's for well over a year now (15-20k)

 

I think 235/50 would be the better option on 17x7inch stock infinity/nissan rims. i got infinty wheels 17x7" with 235/50's but if you wanna go 235/45 there shouldnt be any issue afterall you will be responsible if anything unsafe happen's the only thing is that its not recommeded by manufacturers as few have already discussed about this million times. so if you go with 225/50 that will also fill the extra gap between wheel and fender and will provide better ride and handling.

 

the only way to connect an ipod to the bose is tape or wired FM. there is no other connection on the back of the HU. i have the drive and play and have it connected with the wired FM through the antenna input. the sound is WAY better that a tape and almost as good as a CD.

installed http://k47.pbase.com/g4/48/684848/2/...9.N7H3MYsM.jpg

 

I never knew Nissan had anything to do with audio equipment.

 

typo error.

 

Quick question from a new Nissan owner...

Which supercharger would you recommended for the '01 Maxima? I'm looking for relatively low boost (between 6-9 lbs), but yet enough to give it a little pick-me-up.

Thanks!

 

pretty sure stillen is the only option

 

Just because alot of people do it doesn't make it the best option (yes, I had 235/45 on my OEM wheels too a couple years ago). Get 225/50 or get wider wheels. If 235/45 were perfectly safe for 7" wide rims, the manufacturers would say so (since it would allow alot more cars to use such a tire.)

 

Do you get any fuzz interference from the other radio stations? Glad to hear youve got the Drive + Play and it works well, went out on a gamble buying it. Are there any quirks with the system, like you have to crank the volume to hear it or anything? How do you listen to it? Is it an FM trasmitter style thing where you just tune the system, then tune your radio?

Thanks

 

Appreciate the input greatly. Of course I had to do more research which leads to more questions, and I'll TRY to get them all this time. I read the Housecor article on installing struts/shocks/springs,the thread/poll on cutting bump stops and the 'official' suspension thread. Sorry for all the questions, but there appears to be a wide variety of (ahem) strongly held opinion on these topics. Someone give me something that sounds authoritative!

On a 2001 SE...........

1. Does the Eibach/Illumina setup require cutting bump stops?

2. If so, by how much?

3. Is the bump stop an insert inside the dust boot? From what I've read, it seems to be, but.........

4. If so, how do you get it out to cut/trim and then get it back in?

NOTE: Seems like this would be preferable to cutting the dust boot itself, since the stock boot would be designed to fit into the strut mount as is, so to speak.

5. On the topic of strut mounts - I was contemplating replacing these, as long as I'm going through this evolution. Looking at an exploded view on the AAA Nissan Parts website (not posting the link because it's 99 miles long), it shows the strut mount as an assembly of eight parts, with the topmost part being what Housecor calls the top hat (naturally). Is the whole assembly sold as a single piece? Or.......? AAA Nissan shows a price of 26.38, which seems pretty low for a Nissan OEM assembly of any kind.

6. Someone may have touched on this already in responding to my earlier questions and if so, apologies in advance. If I'm already going through all the rest, is it worthwhile and/or recommended to replace stock bushings with ES bushings? Control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, all the above?

7. Need front strut tower bar, no argument.

8. Rear strut tower bar? Some say yup, some say rear end is stiff enough without it.

9. Rear tie/sway bar? Again, some divergence of opinion......from what I can recall, some say it corrects the maxima's tendency to oversteer........others say it can cause rear end to snap out unexpectedly in hard cornering at high speed.

Sorry for all the questions, but it may help me to avoid time, extra expense, skinned knuckles etc etc.......

BTW, the best upgrade I've done on the vehicle so far was dumping the Bridgestones and going to Toyo Proxes 4.......awesome tires and not a bad price. World of difference, especially in wet/snowy weather.


Thanks again for all the help.

 

there is no interference because the system sends the signal at a higher power then a radio station. its completely clear. if you leave the stereo on, and turn off the drive+play, then you hear the static.
i do have to turn the volume up more than when listening to the radio.
you have 5 preset freqs to pick from or you can create one. i actually tried setting it to a freq that was used by a local station. the system completely blocked it.

 

It doesn't "require" it, to my knowledge. Mine were already cut about 1" from previous H-tech and Maxspeed springs. If you don't cut them you might bottom out "occasionally" but the Eibachs rate would probably keep that minimal.

yes, it is inside the dustboot. You can push it out from the top. The 02-03 might be integral in the rear, I don't remember.


correct

not sure about what comes with what. The upper strut assembly consists basically of:
- the top hat (has the bolts that go through into the engine bay)
- a gasket that goes on the upper mount.
- the strut bearing (small gray plastic piece)
- the strut upper mount (upper spring perch)
- the rubber isolator piece that fits in the upper mount

I would only bother replacing any of these pieces if they appear worn. I would say just buy new strut bearings and rubber isolators. the rest are metal and really are fine unless you have super-high mileage.

sway bar bushings are super-easy. The restof them take more effort and generally need tobe pressed out. They're nice if you're high-mileage. If not.....it's up to you.

one of the LEAST effective handling mods you can do. Really, they don't do very much. But, they're cheap so everone gets them. And they look nice under the hood.

almost nobody has them. they're very hard to find, and really are even less effective than a FSTB. I want one only because I have everything else, but would only put it on for autocross days.

those who say it creates snap oversteer...they don't know how to drive. I've NEVER lost the tail of the car. And I'm damn sure I've pushed my car harder than 95% of the people here.

The Maxima's natural tendancy is to UNDERSTEER. A RSB pushes that toward slight oversteer by stiffening the rear roll.

that's what this thread is for.

agreed 100%

 

Thanks again......and you're right, tendency is to understeer, I recall reading somewhere that most stock vehicles have built in tendency to understeer to compensate for idiot drivers, or something along those lines.

So I gather you would leave bump stops as is, at least initially. Can always cut them later if need be.

 

I'll admit to cluster envy - would love to have the white instrument cluster of the SE 5th gens in my 2000 GLE. I've seen several instrument clusters on ebay, but was concerned that swapping out the instrument cluster would mess up my odometer. Is there, 1) any way to put a white SE instrument cluster in a GLE and not screw up the digital odometer readouts, or 2) keep my existing cluster, but change the gauge faces to the white/black negative dials of the SE?

Looked through past postings as best I could, but found that the links in old postings that looked like they might be helpful were no longer valid.

 

Thanks for the clearup, i just hope that audiooutfitter lets me cancel my order for the PA-11 NIS system, i appreciate your help, looking forward to not using the cd changer lol

 

So, Ive had my car for almost 2 weeks now...Yesterday my blower (the inside fan for a/c/heat) only started blowing on level 4 (2001 GLE)...is this in the switch itself? or possibly in the motor? please advise on which to change or a way to check first? thanks a bunch

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=491921
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=503078
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=497088
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=492564
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=478665
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=433996
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=458884
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=457257

 

This is a weird one - when I put on the turn signal or hazards, I get a brief high-pitched "tweee" out of the dashboard (it seems). I only lasts a split second, and it happens every third or fourth "blink" and when I first put it on. What is it???

EDIT: Is it the flasher relay? If so, where is it?

 

Thanks, Irish - great feedback from you and other. Looking at other posts I see you have some experience with Toyo Proxes 4s. Interested in your thoughts on putting 235/50R17 Proxies on those 17X7 35mm offset rims. Any reason the 9.5 tire width (on reference rim of 7.5 inch vs. my 7) would pose a problem?

 

honestly, I am not a fan of 235/45 tires on a 7" wide rim. I think it compromises both handling and safey, and toyo does not recommend that size tire on a 7" rim either, according to their site (nor do almost any other tire manufacturers)

The Proxes4 ARE available (according to Toyo) in 225/50/17, and that is the size I suggest getting them in.

they're great tires, assuming you run them in the correct size they will perform very nicely in all conditions.

 

You and other made very convincing (and simple) arguements that steer me away from the 235/45s - like "why put something on your car that the manufacturer doesn't recommend?"

However, are you recommending the 225/50/17 over the 235/50/17 I was asking about? If so, why?

Per Toyo (and other) specs, the 235/50 should fit the 7" rim fine, no? Thinking wider would provide better handling and look sweet, but I definitely defer to you guys who've been doing this awhile.

Thanks.

 

well, because a 235/50/17 will make your speedo show slower than you're actually going (more speeding tickets), and will also slow the acceleration of the car because of the larger diameter.

I'm not sure what the love for 235s is exactly. It's not like they're going to grip the road significantly better than the 225s

I run 235's on my 8" wide rims, for comparison's sake.

I run 225/50/17 on my 7.5" winter rims.....

 

btw, wider tires will only help handling if they are on WIDER RIMS.

235's on a 7" rim will handing WORSE than 225's on the same rim, because of the angle of the sidewall being farther away from vertical (didn''t I explain this someplace else recently??)

 

im a newbie in need of a clutch for an 02 maxima...

What clutch is everyone running? My max is stock but i want something that can take a beating if necessary. Right now im looking into a clutchmasters setup thats on ebay for $320...

How hard is it to change a clutch in an 02 maxima? I know my stuff when it comes to v8/rwd setups but ive never messed with a fwd vehicle.

Andrew

 

My stock clutch has dealt with 120,000 miles and about 20 autocrosses, plus ALOT of city and bumper-to-bumper traffic. When it eventually goes, I will put another OEM clutch in.

As for what others are using, here's a few links that should help you out, though I don't think a big percentage of guys here have aftermarket clutches.

edit: well, after doing a search for you, I found pretty much JACK for clutch discussion on the 5th gen forum....so here are some links from the 4th gen guys. i haven't read them, so sorry if they don't have much info...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=clutch

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=clutch

 

btw, clutch install is not all that hard if you have the right tools, tranny jack, stands, etc. It will get messy though thanks to CV axles.