http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469585

 

Just wondering how hard it would be to swap a 6sp tranny into an auto 5.5 gen.

 

I'M LOST. heres me story...

When i drive my '00 Max for extended periods (2+ hours continuously) , whenever i come to a stop it shuts off. The car goes somewhat 'dead' as if i have the key in the ACC position. (the dash lights such as the oil,airbag, brake, & battery, come on)

This happens regardless the gea the car is in (Mostly while in drive/reverse)

What i'd like to know is does ANYBODY know what this is or is caused by?
Has any1 experienced it before? Because id like to get it fixed asap but i would like to know what im against and i wanna know how serious it is.

ANY INFORMATION WOULD HELP GREATLY... PLEASE HELP ME!

 

1. Clean the throttle body,
2. Replace the MAF.

 

check the spark plugs. i had a 93 se that did the same thing.

 

Thanks CCMAX and whteghost. I've been studying past threads on the MAF and come to the conclussion thats my problem. Im only stuck on whether its my sensor or flow meter?

Ive heard that the sensor is most likely the problem but according to the symptoms i listed previously, any1 can hint me in the right direction.

P.S. Big thanks again to CCS2k1Max for the heads up

 

The sensor is the flow meter. Unless you're talking about 2 different sensors

Perhaps you mean the IAT & MAF.

 

well I just got my 02 maxima, 6spd, this past wed. I love it! My question is what should I do first, i was thinking headers but maybe I should get CAI first help me out!!!

 

Any1 can point me in the direction of a tutorial for do-it-yourself MAF sensor replacement? I heard it takes 5 minutes to do when you do buy the sensor and replace it yourself + it's $100-700 cheaper.

Again, Thanks for all the help here.

 

This is my first post I do not currently own a max. I had an 2000 gxe w/ a few mods years ago, but have been a hardcore DSM guy for the last 3 years. I am in the process of opening up my own business and finishing up my masters degree. I now need more professional, RELIABLE, semi quick, and inexpesive car. The maxima seems to be the answer for me. I am a mechanically competent and would like to spend around 5K when all is said and done. I have been looking at throwing a 3.5 into a 95 max shell so that passing emmisions would not be a probem, and but I do like the look of the 2k-2003 from the "professional look" standpoint. I would like to put down as close to 250 to the ground as possible but reliability is key. I am open to any advise and am eager to learn more about maximas and my options.

Also let me know if anyone is interested in buying or trading for my silver GST it has a freshly rebuilt motor and around 8k in mods and should put down around 400 whp on pump. I have pics and a mod list if interested.

 

A 3.5L with some tuning will get you close or past 250 whp.

 

1. Open hood
2. loosen hose clamp at downstream end of MAF tube assembly (black tube with MAF sensor on it)
3. undo 3 screw/bolts holding MAF tube at other end to air box
4. pull old MAF tube out.
5. put new MAF tube in, just the opposite

I did mine in a parking lot in 5 minutes with a screwdriver and small wrench during a recent road trip (yeah, I carry a spare and finally had to use it).

The MAF assembly (sensor+tube) is about $120-130 from most dealers, or about $100 from DaveB (see stickies for his number)

 

First: search the stickies.
Second: do suspension work
Third: do the other mods (headers/CAI,etc etc)

 

You can do three approaches. SOme people use Megiuers Plastic Polisher. I have used Flitz Polisher with some great results. Or you can wet sand. This is a really straight forward process were you get 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sand paper. You drip them first in water and keep the sandpaper moist and sand down the outside of your housings. You start first with the 600 and work your way up. After you are finish you have to use scratch x to smooth and fill in the headlights. It will take you about 15-20 minutes per headlight. Taking them out is really easy too. Just two 10mm bolts on top and then just pull straight out. It will seem like you are pulling really hard but there is a retaining clip inside that keeps the headlights in place. Good luck and it sounds harder than it is it is really easy. If that scares you then try the other two options.

 

How come i can't start threads or do searches. Kinda gay if you ask me.

 

you know what's really gay? That you don't know how to read the stickies before asking stupid questions.

see the "announcement" at the very top of the forum.

search is only for donating members, but there are other ways to search. Again...stickies are your friend.

 

I did a search using the Google feature, and it came up empty.

My question is what's the first year the Max came with a telescopic wheel?

Thanx

 

FIRST & FOREMOST Thanks to those who helped me thru the install with the new MAF. Will install tommorrow.

I just wanted to know where i can get a decent pair of HID HL's for a 5th gen.

Saw a pair on eBay for about $500 for '02-03 models will they fit a '00?

 

P.S. - Also, how would i go by replacing my entire interior? mainly the dash and door panels. Is there a specific place i can find all the pieces/panels?

Is it hard? Im trying to go from a tan/light brown colored interior to black.

I have no idea where to even begin. Also a ballpark figure of what im looking to do would be greatly appreciated.

 

HI i am new here and was wondering if anybody could help me out? My cigarette lighter in the front console does not work, i checked the fuse and it is ok, even replaced it and still does not work. The one in the back works fine, i don't know if they are on the same line or not, but if someone could give me advice on how to trace the line on the front cigarette lighter or any other ideas on why it wouldn't work.

Thanks

 

You have quite the project before you. I would really just say stick with tan. If one thing you could do is dye the pieces instead of replacing them all together. Also, on the headlights yes they do fit 2000 you have to remove the tabs on the bottom also you have some wiring work ahead of you but it is easy. 500 is what you are going to look to pay if you watch the pieces. Goodluck

 

....

 

and by donate, do you mean actually pay money? Sorry, I have been reading for about 3 days straight.... every thread possible... some of them are hard to find because of the color scheme.... for example, took me about 8 hours to find the 5th Gen FS threads for parts... it was in a completely different color banner....

 

Bump on the noobie thread...


....for my post count.

 

Hey moron, I'm just trying to direct you in the right direction and help you with your searches.


yes, donating members (who "pay money") can use the search feature, access O/T, etc.

The color scheme can be changed using the dropdown menu on the bottom left of any screen. Most people use "SupraDonkey" style.

another reason you should read the stickies....then you would know that the 5th gen forum rules state:

17) Any newbs caught trolling or PWing to increase their post count will face an automatic permanent ban.

(i.e. you might want to delete your previous post while I'm in a charitable mood)

 

1. Need a recommendation as to cheapest source for Tokico Illuminas for 2001 SE......

2. Then if someone happens to know a decent shop in the Indianapolis area, that would be peachy also. I had to get a rebuilt transmission put in, which went all right from the transmission viewpoint. BUT they were sloppy on the ancillary work such as plugging things in, tightening clamps, etc. Oh yeah, and now the overdrive off switch doesn't work and the dash indicator for shift position (P, R, D etc) only works for P and R. AND it's got some creaks and such it doesn't have before. I took it back and now the Service Engine Soon light is on, etc....y'might say I've lost confidence in the shop, just to tail off before going into a full scale rant.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

I'm about to order 19x8.5 F and 19x9.5 R for my 2k1 max...what offset should i run for them to be flush, or to be able to tuck? I will be ordering coilovers next week so I want to go as low as possible on 19s... i was planning on 235/35s F and 245/35s R because I like the stretch look...I read through quite a few threads on staggered wheels but none had close up pics on how they sat with the fenders, and if they did they did not list the offset...thanks

 

Hello all,

Thanks for creating this thread - nice to have a place to post questions.

I've got a 2k2 SE which has run great for the 1 1/2 years i've owned it. Just recently i went out to start it and it turned over like normal, but whereas it normally starts after about 1 or 2 secs of cranking, i held the key turned for about 3 or 4 seconds and it didn't start - everything sounded normal, it just didn't start. I let off the key, paused for a second or 2, then tried again. This time it wouldn't even turn over, it just made a constant, fairly high pitched, whirring/whining type noise - but not even so much as a sputter from the engine. I had full battery power and this wasn't the clicking type noise usually encountered when a battery is dead.

I tried a few more times, with no luck and went back in the house to get Dad (gotta love car problems when home for Christmas). When we came back outside he tried it about 5 or 6 times with the same results. Turning the key just produced a constant whirring/whining noise as long as the key was held. Then about 10 mins after my first unsuccessful attempt, Dad tried it again and just held the key for what seemed like 10 seconds, this time the whining noise slowly turned into a weak sputter, at which point dad floored the gas and it finally started. After letting it run for a minute or so, we turned it off, and restarted it about 5 times and it started up perfectly every time. This was now almost 2 weeks ago and it hasn't happened again since although it has seemed to sputter a bit more a couple times immediately after starting before getting to the nice stable idle.

3 days after it happened it took it in to the local Nissan dealer and explained what happened. I got a call an hour later saying they had hooked it up and tested everything they could test, but that everything came back 100% a-ok. (The check engine light did not come on during this and no error code was thrown.)

So, i'm a bit concerned something is on it's way out but the shop says it was just a "fluke" and "probably" won't happen again. Any ideas?

Thanks much in advance.

 

Hi, somewhat new to the forum, have 01&03 maxes, o6 Murano! Problem is with son's 03 max. continuously getting both sensor 1 codes(P0132,P0152). I changed out the rad side sensor, still same codes. If you drive this car with a light foot, no codes will be created! As soon as it's spiritedly driven these 2 codes will appear. My thinking is the maf sensor. Today, I cleaned the maf with some MAF cleaning fluid, but still the codes appear! Should I(or my son!) bite the wallet and spring for a new Maf or is there anyone out there that has had this problem and solved it! His 03Max has only 37K kms on it!
Anyone????
thanks, Sandy

 

Hey Guys,
Just got my 2003 Maxima SE Titanium with a Bose system CD Changer 6 in the dash. Sold my PT Turbo for it. Anyhow, i just bought the Harmon Kardon Drive+Play system. I need to know how i could make this thing work, i dont want to have it running through the FM transmitter, wired or not. It comes with the ability to hook it through RCA's or an AUX, i would like to keep the head unit the same, in case i sell it. Im sure its been answered before, but i cant get a straight answer for the system with the changer in the dash. In the PT i had a panasonic deck with aftermarket stuff, worked like a charm, bought the kardon system to try and recreate this. Was this the right move?

thanks
NEWB

Mike

 

send a pm to SOONERFAN when you get to 20 posts (or whenever you're allowed to). He has this setup in his car (I helped him install it, but forget how we did it exactly).

 

those codes are related to 02 sensors as you know.
P0132 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0152 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2)
if you have replaced bank 1 and bank 2 sensors and have erased the code with OBD code reader then there shoudnt be any problem. you should try to erase those codes and see if they reappears. your son's 03 maxima doesnt have too many miles that it needs a new MAF. if there are no stalling, hesitation of idle, rough idling etc. then the MAF has nothing to do with these 2 codes. you can go ahead and replace the maf but i dont think that your problem will be solved. so just replace those 2 sensors and erase the codes, well to be on the safe and decent side you must replace all four 02 sensors and be worry free for sevral years. goodluck.

 

Just a quick question....

Are they any options that come on a '03 GLE that could not be bought as an option on an '03 SE?

Thanks!

 

I think leather heated seats, bose stereo, etc.

 

hello all,

im new to these forums and also a new maxima owner. first maxima and nissan for me. had a few questions and hope you guys wont get mad for me asking noob questions. thing is - how do you not be a noob without asking questions and learning.

search ... sucks. cuz you have to pay ... or you have to spend HOURS even DAYS maybe reading over PAGES and PAGES and dont find exactly what you want. yes ... i tried.

question 1: I got the 2003 SE with 6 speed. the seller was telling me there was something special/rare about this car because it had some kind of helical limited slip diff tranny. is there a huge difference between my tranny and others?

question 2: skip this question - i have a "vague" idea of what a titanium edision is and i *think* i have it - but not completely sure.

question 3: i was planning on putting some magnets on the oil filter, and also on the manual tranny to help keep the metal shavings out of circulation - thing is - this is my first manual tranny and i dont know where would be a good place to put them. Im also worried that putting strong magnets down there might interfere with / hinder or mess up something. (as you can see im not that technical - i can change my own oil, various filters, audio head units and brakes - i planning on doing my own tranny fluid changes - but thats about the xtent of my knowledge - thats why i need forum help). i mean theres lots of "yellow" metals in the manual tranny (so i've read) so those wont be affectd by magnets - but anything else down there that would be sensitive to strong magnets?

 

question 1: I got the 2003 SE with 6 speed. the seller was telling me there was something special/rare about this car because it had some kind of helical limited slip diff tranny. is there a huge difference between my tranny and others?

Well, basically you have a limited slip/posi-trac type diff. Which means that both wheels will get power.

 

OCguy, thanks for your response. When I changed out sensor 1, rad side, I thought it would rid me of P0152. When erasing the codes, (I have done so several times) I have kept my reader on watching at the ECU relearns..... if I drive at reasonable (slow) acceleration, it will pass code free. Yet, with spirited driving, the codes reappear rather quickly! I have noticed, only after codes cleared and relearning process is started, that sometimes the car will hesitate, (bog) when stepping on it.... thus led me to thinking MAF. What I would really like to know is if the sensor is replaced, and the code reappears, what other part could produce the code? (not well worded!)
"Change all the sensors" heheh! I'm from Canada and up here the Nissan stealerships want your house in return for any part!@ EX: My wife took her car(01Max) in for stalling (before I had a chance to look at it) and wound up with a bill of $850. and they only changed out the MAF!!!! and then they suggested to her that she will need all new coils(another $900.) as well! Well, yes, I know about 01 coils, and I do have a spare set, but, when she got home and told me about the bill, I was pissed!
Well, my son's back off to University this am, so I will not have a chance to look at this until Easter. (will give me some time to figure out a plan)
thanks, Sandy
other thoughts appreciated!

 

Hi, I'm doing all four brakes (disks and pads) and wondering a couple things:

1) any tricks to keep an eye out for? I've done brakes before on my last vehicle and several motorcycles, I'm just wondering if there's anything specific to an '03.

2) Anything else I should consider doing while I'm at it?

3) DOT 3/4 brake fluid OK for replacing, or does it need DOT 5?

Danke!

 

Oh well I cant think of anything else for now but it could also be your ECM that needs to be reprogrammed by dealer. perhapes those sensors you replaced might not be the exact OEM replacement. well i owns 01 maxima too and i replaced my own coils/plugs and the maf myself. replacing the coils is easier than changing the oil and installing the MAF is only 15 minutes job. they also have "write up" on how to install the coils and plugs and MAF on 01 and 03 max. if you would have joinned this board before you had those coils and maf done on your 01, you could save yourself big bucks. but before you sepnd more money on your 03 max, i suggest that you should take your car for diagnostic and that will tell what exactly going on. but there are chances that ECM reprogramming may solve this issue. OH by the way changing all 02 sensors is also easy its plug and play job. and sensor only cost $95 a piece. so just read and learn thats what I did. goodluck.

 

Has anyone rewired their power outlets (cigarette and rear power) so that they are hot all the time? I've located all the correct wires and figure I should be able to tap the power outlet wires onto the wire that feeds the "Hazards" switch which has power all the time.

Has anyone done this and had any issues? Thanks.