OK cool. I know its pretty subjective, but people say they drain and refill ATF ever X amount of miles. Im at 130k miles right now and Im not sure if the filter was changed at all. (drained and refilled 4k ago..) I want to know my tranny is running clean but i read its not recommended that higher mileage cars not flush it for whatever reason... So should I just leave it as is or get it completely flushed with the filter.

 

Finally got all the info. Think it's the coil on #6 afterall? It didn't seem to make a difference when I pulled the connection....


Pending Codes P1320 Ignition Control Signal Circuit Malfunction Conditions For Setting This Code: Possible Causes: Monitor Information:
MIL DTC P1320 Ignition Control Signal Circuit Malfunction Conditions For Setting This Code: Possible Causes: Monitor Information:
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected Conditions For Setting This Code: Possible Causes: Monitor Information:
Stored Codes P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

Parameter Description Value DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P1320 Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop Fuel System 2 Status Open Loop Calculated LOAD Value 48.63 % Engine Coolant Temp 123.80 °F Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 % Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 % Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 % Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 % Engine RPM 1,000.00 rpm Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph

 

alright, hopefully someone can help me out with this.
When I lock the doors either with the button on the door or the remote....the passenger rear does not lock, and it makes an awful buzz like sound, like something is jammed in there.
It does unlock with the remote and the button on the door once i lock it by hand...
any ideas?

 

Take off the door panel and see where the problem is. Might be your actuator.

 

Ok this is what happens with high milage transmissions that have never been serviced. The clutch discs inside an auto trans have friction surfaces made of paper (yes paper). As you put miles on your trans these surfaces wear and the particles that come off build up, your tcu compensates for this wear. Now, if you have a lot of miles on your trans then this stuff is built up all over. Automatic transmission fluid is full of detergents so when introduced to that new fluid into that gunked up trans it goes to work and cleans it. In doing so it strips all the material off the plates and you are left with basically nothing left on your clutch plates so the trans goes out. Or this fluid will break debris loose and clog up Your shift solenoids and other passages, causing shift problems and accelerated wear. What I Would do is get a clean pan and drain your fluid into it. If this fluid is a very very dark almost black color then just pour it back in the trans top off with some new fluid and leave it. Now if the fluid that comes out still has some color and viscosity to it then You Should be safe to change the fluid. I personally do not recommend flushing a trans unless it has been kept up with at regular intervals. When you flush it you break loose a lot of debris. If you dont get all this debris out then it is very likely to wind up somewhere in the trans where you dont want it.

To give you an idea how how well automatic trans fluid cleans, we use it to de-carbonize injectors and combustion chambers, works better than any injector cleaner on the market!


I take no responsibility if you screw up your trans!

 

So on Sunday I am replacing my transmission with a used trans and would like to know if there are any seals, sensors, or other misc parts I should replace. I have a leak where the transmission meets the engine so I am thinking that it's the rear main seal is it as simple to do as other rms that i have done? Also should I get a speed sensor along with it. I am not familiar with nissans enough to know the kinds of things to look out for concerning them. Going to nissan today to pick up axle seals and trans pan gasket and don't want to forget anything.

Please PM me if possible or post a link on how to properly replace a nissan trans.

 

I'm having a slight issue, just wondering...
Every time i start my car, my oil light flickers for a second, it never stays lit or anything, and only happens when the car starts, does not happen if the engine is warm...
Yes the oil level is good, i always try to keep my car full on oil and my oil consumption is fairly good ( about 1 quart per like 2.5K miles...)
Should i be worried? The car runs very well without any weird engine noise ect and the oil pan is well intact without any damage on it ect.

 

Check your oil sensor. Had the same issue. Generic part from Pep Boys was pretty inexpensive.

 

Alright, thanks.

 

Sorry, correction. I think it's called the oil pressure switch.

 

I have an 02 SE, and the cruise control that worked fine a month ago, now will not set. It will turn on, i see the indicator but once it is, it will not set. Any suggestions?

 

stopped to get the SES light codes and pulled p0011 & P0021

Intake valve timing control(codes for both banks)

Is this just a timing issue?

Thanks in advance

 

Look up under the dash on the brake pedal arm and you will see 2 switches. One is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control - to cancel cruise when you step on the brake. I think the cruise control switch is the one towards the console. The brake pedal uses little rubber bunpers to operate the switches. Over time these bumpers get hard and break and fall out, leaving you with cruise control that won't engage because the ecu thinks you have your foot on the brake pedal.

 

I have an 01 gxe and sometimes when i accelerate in lower rpms i get a brief rattling noise from underneath the chassis, anybody know what this might be? Also when braking from 70+ mph my brakes are wobbly, is this from the rotors? and how much would it cost to get them replaced/or parts to do it myself?

 

Thanks for all the info!!!
Unaware of this I drained and filled my ATF 4k miles ago. Cross my fingers that everything ok. There wouldnt really be a point for me to drain and check it because it was recently changed. Not much I can do now but hope the tranny doesnt give out on me! What are some symptoms of a tranny going out?

 

try removing your heat shields, that should stop the rattle.. also make sure u use premium gas, as not using it can cause pinging which can sound somewhat like a rattle..

as for the brakes, yes the rotors are probably warped.. its a very common issue in our cars.. try searching a bit and you will find tons of info on warped rotors in this site..

 

I got a 2000 maxima, 4spd a/t, with roughly 219,000 miles on it. I recently just put an intake on the car, MAF Adaptor plate with Filter attached. The car runs fine up to 4,000 RPMs and then it looses all action and bogs. RPMs just sit and slowly rise at full throttle in 2nd gear. I tried resetting the ECU, unplugged the battery for about 30 minutes. Restarted and let it idle for about 10-12 minutes. That actually fixed my high idle and the car normally idles at about 700-800 RPMs at P and N, and sounds alot quieter too now. Now I'm thinking it has something to do with the VIAS because it only acts up around the RPMs it should be kicking in. Any ideas???? Maybe IAVC or MAF???

 

New guy here, I wanted to start a new topic but can't since i am a new guy. Anyway, sorry for piggy backing on this thread but I need to start somewhere and this is the reason I signed up here. I have a 2003 Maxima, SE w/6speed. I am having issues with high beams. It is a Canadian car so it is equipped with daytime running lights. Passenger side high beam refuses to work. New light installed. Works with DRL but not on high beam. Swapped relays for left and right, left works fine so not relay. Swapped fuses for left and right high beam, left still working fine. So am I going after a broken wire or is it the combi unit switch for the headlights that a mechanic told me that the maximas are know for but I have never heard of from anyone again.

 

Hi I just had my idle air control valve replaced on my 2000 SE. I drove it home and the light service engine light came on again. Took it back to get the code read and it was the same code, the IAC. Any clue to why that would be? Could it have anything to do with the ECU, and how do you know if the ECU is screwed, would the car die or something? It's running fantastic, I just hate ses lights..

 

sounds like your MAF is the culprit..

 

Hey guys im new to this and i was wondering what would be the best performance struts and springs should i get for my 01 maxima AE i dont really care much about the drop i just want it to ride smooth without feeling the bumps so much i was thinking about some tokico blues or illumina but im hoping to leave it at about the stock level im sure the struts give it a small drop thats cool,also plannin on some stillen strut bar and sway bar is this a good buy? Or should i get some springs too? I dont want to be feeling every little bump like most lowering springs, but i still wanna get a cool sporty look what do you guys suggest ??

 

Anybody has infos about that? Y-pipe and catback from a 4th gen on 5th gen?

 

oh ok, thanks a lot for the insight. ill search around, i appreciate the help

 

here you go!

http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

 

This is normal. The sensor is looking for a certain amount of oil pressure so it will flicker as your motor builds oil pressure whenever you start it. when the sensor is warm the resistance is slightly different, thats why it doesnt do it then.

 

Nobody wanna reply to my question?

 

Hey, thanks for the info, but i checked both the switches and the rubber bumpers and they seem to all be intact and functioning. Is it possible the switch is just gone? I just want my cruise back, im freakishly tall and it kills my foot on long trips haha. Thanks again for any imput

 

does anyone know if the headlamp delay rewire also keeps the light on when its on the auto setting??

 

Ok so when I am driving on the highway (70-80mph) I feel like the max makes small shifts to the left and right. I dont feel it at lower speeds at all. I tried searching but nothing came up (google not just the org). There anything that can be pin pointed that is the problem?

 

It could be your tires following the divots in the road, sloppy steering, or a few other things.

Need more info/better explanation.

 

Tire, wheel, or suspension related.

First, get the tires checked or rotate them (front to back) and see if that changes anything. If it does not you can rule out tires, and possibly wheels.

The likely cause is bad LCA's ball joints. You can check those for movement, or have a shop do it. When my LCA's went the Max would literally veer in one direction when accelerating which was pretty scary. They wore pretty tore up at that point, but yours could just be moderately worn.

 

Ok ill have the tires rotated first then go from there.. Even the slightest movement to one side when the steering wheel is straight is pretty scary. Really want to get this fix as soon as possible.
Thanks!!

 

quick subwoofer install question... not sure if this is the right place but it seems like a NEWB question to me.

havnt touched audio since i changed my focus to performance years back, now im wondering with the BOSE stereo in my 02 maxima what is the easiest way to install the subs. can i just install the RCA's for the sound to the sub out on my pioneer dvd unit and then run the power and ground as usual? reason i ask is because of the bose and the amplifier... but i feel i can just run the sub out to my amp via the RCA's and i dont have to worry about any wiring going to the bose amp.

this made sense to me just want another opinion.

PS, i got the subs for free so i would test them out, but trunk space is more convenient for me, and since i have had a sub box fly through the back seats in a race i have been worried lol

 

You have a Pioneer head unit already installed?

If so, it's installed in one of two ways.
1 - Metra 70-7551. Your front/rear RCA outputs from your HU are fed in via this harness, to your Bose system.
2 - Line output converter - your speaker wire outputs from your HU are reduced in amplification by the LOC to a line-level signal, which is then wire into your Bose sytem.

Regardless of which way your HU is installed, you should still have a 3rd pair of RCA outputs from your HU, which are labeled as subwoofer output.

Do you have aftermarket subs only? If so, they are not compatible with the Bose subwoofer amp.

If you have an aftermarket amplifier along with your subs, then run an RCA from subwoofer output to the input on the amp, and take it from there.

 

you seemed a bit confused about my post but you answered questions i had. thanks

pioneer head unit is already installed in my car. i have aftermarket subs and amp. you confirmed what i was already thinking. i did not want to touch the bose amp at all or try and run a signal from that to aftermarket subs!

thanks again

 

No prob, good luck

 

Update on my speedo problem. I finally decided to disconnect the main plug to the ABS pump/actuator unitand the problem is gone! However, I'll no longer have ABS nor did I ever have it when I drive tested it.
My question is. What would cause the ABS light NOT to come on even though the pump has been disconnected? could it be the ABS control module? Is it possible that's what was causing the problem not the PUMP?
let me know what you think. I don't want to replace both the pump the module if I don't have to. thank you for the manual link by the way, it was very helpful!

 

The switch on the brake pedal could go bad, just like any part could. But they seem to be pretty rugged. It won't hurt to check it and its somewhat easy to get to. When the brake pedal is not depressed, the switch contacts are making a connection. The switch for cruise control has an orange wire going into it.

But there are a lot of other things, too. If you have a burned out brake light, the cruise control will not operate. If you put led brake lights in without load resistors, the cruise control will not operate. Fuses 23 (15 amp) and 30 (10 amp) in the dash panel fuse block and fuse 57 (10 amp) under the hood play a part.

If you look in a service manual, you need to know that Nissan calls cruise control ASCD, Automatic Speed Control Device.

 

Hey guys I just bought a 2003 Nissan Maxima GLE and I have couple of questions:
My car did come with a remote control, but it was a Ziebart brand and it did not respond, Can I add a fob key and use it with the car?

How do I know if my car has keyless entry? because I checked teh fuse box and the place where keyless entry should be there is nothing there or wires?

Thanks

 

Contact your Nissan dealer or courtesy parts or any nissan online dealer and order an OEM keyfob for your year and model...Never buy ebay crap
Programming is as easy as inserting the key in ignition for several times and pressing a button on the fob...(search for the instructions here in the forums)......ALL maximas came with keyless entry.You seem not to know a bit about the car you already have