Originally Posted by Souled0ut1

Haaa wait I just checked it out...are you just playing around with the newbie kinda like selling the new freshmen a pool pass?!? Do ppl really make ghetto CAI's and they work better and hold up better than some of these aftermarket kits? If so it should be called a McGyver CAI or something....

...for real?!?

Originally Posted by 00nismomax

i heard that the timing advance can mess up the max...thats wah the tech at nissan said to me...is this true?

Originally Posted by mmvit

hey i just got a 2001 se, with cloth interior.. i really want leather, any one know where i cna buy seats that will fit the brackets online?

Originally Posted by homeyclaus

There are sites that allow you to email a bunch of wreckers that may or may not have seats, who'll email you back.

Originally Posted by 00nismomax

aight..imma ask another tech to do a 2deg. advance..when u leave the battery off on the max it clears the data...so if i did the advance and then had to do some work on my car n left da battery off..would i have to go back for dem to do a timing advance again?

Originally Posted by clayg80

First of all, I bought my 2000 Maxima 3 months ago and been viewing this site ever since. This site is top notch! Especially the tech advice...

I'm not in need of any tech advice, but I'm trying to do some MINOR customizing on my Maxima. I just tinted my windows, ordered HALO headlights, and blue XENON foglights (stuff in that price range). I'm performing the minor customization before the bodykits and painting, since it's less timely and cheaper. I ran out of ideas and need some suggestions in this price range.

Originally Posted by soto2635

i have always been a honda person but i wanted a changed so i went to nissan i have had an 2001 altima for about 3 yrs now, i needed another car so i bought a 2000 maxima not to long after buying it i got a SES light i took it to get looked at and was told that its the idler air control valve, my question is have any of you had this problem???

Originally Posted by pmohr

If you search, you'll find that yes, many people have.

Replace the IACV with a new one, hope that you catch it before it damages the ECU.

Originally Posted by SunDown13X

lately i been having stalling issues with my 2k gle... I'm wondering if its the MAF or if its a fuel related problem. It usually stalls out on me when I come to a stop, 20-40 secs later the car's rpms drop to about 500 then stalls out... If i tap the gas before it doest that, it stays on but sometimes it just does it back to back... Its getting on my nerves.

I just replace the alternator because the idiots at autozone told me it was bad after they did their little test. (got it for free after cursing the guys out for making me take it out for nothing)

So is it the Maf, fuel filter, I dont know... If anyone is in the triangle area (NC) i would love to meet up and perhaps do a Maf swap just to make sure thats the problem. It used to do it every now and then... Now is every time i come to a stop.

Thanks for the help guys...


D.


PS: i have done tons of searches thats why im coming to the conclusion is could be the MAF.

Originally Posted by matt06027

Hey I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. I read alot on this site already trying to find out what i should do to my car, but I haven't found a good answer to what it may be. So basically I bought the car in the Summer, and the car ran fine in the warm weather. Ever since the weather has gotten cold, it has been having problems. When I try to start my car in the morning, it starts right up but then jerks and idles down and stalls, unless I hold the gas pedal at about 2k-2.5k rpms and let it warm up. As long as the motor is warm, I don't have this problem, but the colder it is the worse it gets. The only thing i've done so far is cleaned, then changed the MAF sensor, but that didn't help. I know im not the only one that has had this problem, but I can't seem to find an answer or get much help. Anything would be appreciated, thanks.

Originally Posted by pcj

I have a 2000 Maxima @100k that a shop just replaced the power steering pump and high pressure hose on because it was leaking all over the belt and screeching on startup. (Yes, the problem was probably just one of those two, but they both eventually went out on my other 2000 Maxima with 150k so I don't mind doing them both.)

The shop is normally really good, but when I went to pick my car up this evening from their lot I noticed a small pool of PS fluid on the ground underneath it and it made the exact same squeal on startup. I talked with the mechanic who did the work, and apparently he didn't get the hose fitting tightened all the way when he did the first test and dumped a bit of fluid in there. He says he cleaned everything up top out pretty well (and I verified, no oil or cleaner residue to be found from the top), but some of the fluid pooled below and dripped out.

I'm kind of annoyed that they didn't tell me this when I paid and will talk with the shop owner Monday.

Questions:
* how long will it take before the squealing (1-2 seconds on cold starts) stops?
* how bad is for my new belt? If I'd goofed like this I'd probably pull the belt, wash it in a gentle degreaser, and clean the pulleys the best I could, but I'm okay with "good enough" if it'll only be a few days and isn't likely to be too bad long term.

Thanks!
Peter

Originally Posted by stitch97124

Hi. I have a quick question. My car just threw the 1147 code and the SES light is on. I know that code is for a bad O2 sensor. Am I doing any damage not fixing it right away? I understand performance suffers but I am just concerned about doing any damage at this point. Thank you!

Originally Posted by SuperStasiu

try leaving the battery unplugged overnight then in the morning do the idle relearn procedure, search for it in the 5th gen forum

Originally Posted by SuperStasiu

try cleaning the throttle body, when metals get cold they shrink, and if you have built up dirt on your butterfly valve it could be causing a blockage of air getting through your throttle body

Originally Posted by MAXI BLUE 03

I own a 2003 SE TE and am looking into some nice aftermarket rims, i have never bought aftermarket rims before and i want to buy a decent set that look slick and won't bend too easy($300ea range). i was told if i lower the weight of the rim from the 24lbs (stock wheels) to about 21lbs, the ride would be a little smoother? Is this true?

Any suggestions on a Brand or an actual set? I love the finish on the TE rims.

Thanks

Originally Posted by speedracer6

Hey guys, I couldn't find much on a google search or of this site.

Does anyone know how complex it would be to upgrade a 2002 SE 6 speed by adding traction control or LSD from a donor car?

Thanks

Jeff

Originally Posted by homeyclaus

BMW-foo is BMW mechanical skills/understanding/instinct. I have also never met a BMW that didn't make me feel inflexible

You mean it sounded like your starter turning a slurpee machine at 7-11? That's very, very bad.

The overflow tank cap probably varies on these - don't screw it down like it's a radiator cap - see below.

Well, had you opened the radiator cap you would either have been burned by steam or splashed with hot coolant. The spitting happens when the .8 or so additional atmospheres are removed and fluid that was happily hot at pressure suddenly evaporates.

Agreed on the head gaskets (ain't that a BMW thing?), but if it's because you froze the coolant in the engine it's highly likely that the freezing coolant is what exerted undue pressure on the hg, causing it to fail. In other words, there is little stress on the cylinder to head seals in that case.

Okay, so I'll explain you the differences between your Max and a BMW cooling system:

BMW cooling systems (let's say, a 1985 318i / E30 type), just like a Golf IV, don't have overflow tanks. They have expansion tanks, which are under pressure, and this is where the pressure cap sits. There are usually a couple of hoses going there, and coolant under pressure circulates through the tank while the vehicle is operating. When you fill one full with the engine running, seal it, it'll work out the air bubbles pretty much on its own.

Most Nissans (all sold in north america, I am pretty sure), Toyotas, GM's and Fords have an overflow tank. What happens here is that as pressure builds within the cooling system and the coolant expands, the pressure cap will allow some to escape, which goes into a tube that ends in the bottom of the tank. When the engine cools and the coolant contracts, the pressure goes negative and the coolant is siphoned back from the overflow tank into the system. More retarded designs have bleed screws to let the air out of places in the engine where it accumulates (think Dodge Omni/K-Car non-Mitsubishi and non-VW engines).

Herein lies the issue: The overflow tank system pretty much depends on the cooling system to be 100% full. It has some tolerance, as any air bubbles "should" accumulate in the high and calm point of the system (under the cap) and be pushed out during expansion, and having fluid drawn back in during contraction. However, when you're a quart of coolant short, this won't work in any time frame you'd consider "reasonable".

You fill both systems the same, BUT on overflow systems you must wait for the thermostat to open to top up all the way. On expansion tank systems you should wait.


You're left with the brute force method. The usual warnings about neeing to know what you're doing, keeping objects and body parts away from moving engine parts, and I am not liable if you hurt yourself and/or your puppy dies apply:

1. Open radiator. Fill with coolant.

2. Start car, turn heat to maximum, top up coolant.

3. Let engine warm until thermostat opens (top rad hose will warm up suddenly) and top up again.

4. Rev engine a bit higher, top up, close rad cap.

5. Fill overflow tank half way.

6. Put jug of coolant and a jug of water in the trunk.

7. Go for a drive. Run it normally for some time - don't rev the **** out of it, race people on route 29, or whatever.

8. Have lunch, letting engine cool.

9. Check coolant level in the rad again.

If that turned out okay, you should be okay. If your Maxima's ECU is not throwing SES codes at you, your head gasket is probably okay too - O2 sensors and knock sensors have a way of picking that sort of thing up most of the time.

If it overheats at step 3, your slush machine bent something on the thermostat.

If it overheats at step 7, your water pump didn't like being the slurpee machine agitator, and whatever is holding the blades to the water pump shaft busted somehow.

Best of luck - hope this is helpful.

Originally Posted by SuperStasiu

P1147 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Maximum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 1)
It wont damage your car but your gas mileage might get crappy since your cars ecu goes into limp/safe mode

Originally Posted by stitch97124

Hi, thanks for the info. I took the car in today and had the sensor replaced ($99 for labor, $200 for the part). Drove off the lot, no light. At the second start the SES came back on... I am going to take it to Autozone tomorrow to run the code before I take it back to the repair place so I know what is going on but any idea what else to expect might be happening now? This car has been really good to me but I hate to throw money at it to replace things only to keep having the light come on with a new problem. I know it's all a crap shoot with a car with 100k on it, but... they inspected it and said the only other things wrong were dirty power steering fluid and the need for left wheel bearings... and it has always run strong. Thanks again for the advice!

Originally Posted by xuimod

$300 to get 1 O2 sensor replaced? Dude, you got seriously ripped off.

Originally Posted by stitch97124

Not a lot of options around my area for mechanics and I looked at the diagram and was not super comfortable doing it myself... I am fine with $300.. I am just not thrilled to have the SES light back on and was simply inquiring if anyone else had had this happen and what else might have occurred....

Originally Posted by speedracer6

Can I at least get an "I've never heard of such a thing" or "who'd be dumb enough to buy a Maxima w/o traction control" or "Pedro's done it and says its a PITA"?

Originally Posted by Corbet

Check Engine Light. Mechanic says its a Crank Sensor code. I was told one rear and one front is bad.

Is there any way I can figure out which of the crank sensors are bad myself? Does anyone have any diagrams/pictures of where the crank sensors are? I'd like to replace them myself.

Originally Posted by SuperStasiu

to install traction control would be a waste of money you would need sensors, wheel knuckles, etc.....

since you say your car is a 6spd you should look for anyone selling a HLSD trans, its a helical limited slip differential that came stock in certain 02-03 6spd maximas

Originally Posted by TRBO GUY

You sir, are a good man. BMW-foo... I need to remember that. Haha. The Porsches are far worse, especially the 928 and any 911 series past '94 (993 on).

I'll see if I can get someone in the fam to check it out for me.

Regarding the SES light, are these the types often times tripped by O2 sensors, gas caps, and other emission components, are are these true "oh ****" lights? Mine tripped before but turned off before I got the chance to deal with it. I never flashed the codes.

Thanks a bunch!!

Originally Posted by speedracer6

If my car has ABS, then the sensors and knuckles should be the same right? I don't get why they weren't both part of the same package.

Thanks.