The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

Those are the GLE 7 spokes stock rim.

jrich7720

Excellent, thank you. I love the simple look and the finish of these wheels.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Vinnie,

You sound like you've done this before, so I'll assume you've checked for vacuum leaks and made sure that's all kosher, right?

No need to worry about the ECM - it will have reset when you had the battery out to do the head gaskets.

Spending $20 on a Haynes manual might be the right thing to do at this time, if you haven't got one already.

If the timing is retarded (there is still a way to check with a newer strobe light, and my 2001 still has the markings) I'd check to make sure the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position/TDC sensors are in place, connected, and working first. I'd then check the manual and see if there is anything specific to your model year series that could also be used as timing-related input to your ECM so it times the engine right.

In the worst case, everything but the spot a sensor fires on on the camshaft sprocket was not lined up - and the ECM will get conflicting signals since when the TDC fires the cam signal isn't where it expects it to be.

If you do figure it out, be sure to post an update!

novamike

I have a 2000 maxima and the throttle position switch to my understanding is suppost to be pins 1 and 2 shorted at idle and then pins 2 and 3 shorted at wot.
Mine will never short the idle part of the circuit due to the way it is bolted on, becauase of this I am having a small feels like miss fire at idle.
I have loosened the bolts and tried to spin it so that the idle indication will be sent to the ecu but there is not enough play to make that adjustment.

Has the butterfly slipped on my throttle body?

there is another set of holes to line up the TPS with but they are not threaded, I put a bolt in there anyway to hold it in place and becasue of the still miss allighnment now in the other direction it sends the idle signal too long and unless I slam on the gas at start it hickups and nearly stalls before it jumps into gear.

I have looks at the TPS module and it looks and tests great... also there is no adustment inside it.

HELP!!!!

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

What was the problem you're trying to fix?

novamike

"What was the problem you originaly tried to fix?"

My IACV was suspected of being a problem... I replaced it. And following mitchell od5 instructions I needed to check and adjust the TPS to spec. That is when I noticed the TPS will NOT adjust correctly. Right now the car drives very bad from 0 to 10mph but does not thow an SES light after 12 miles. So I am still having trouble adjusting the TPS but I am going to try and smog it now that the light is off.

Thanks
PLEASE need advise.!

vinnie999

Thanks for the reply. I have a factory service manual and have used it for the repair. I've read of similar problems (though not as severe) in the posts. The general consensus in those posts was the MAF. I tried cleaning mine but it didnt change anything so I bought a new one on Ebay and am waiting for it to arrive. I've never been one for part changing and am a little concerned that I'm not getting any failure codes. This would normally lead me to believe that it's an ecm problem but the MAF sensor was only $50.00 on Ebay so it's worth a try. I'll post the results. Thanks Again

mandyfig

Did you get an original MAF sensor for $50? Where in fleabay? Did you just get the sensor and not the whole housing unit, typical in OEM?

mandyfig

I have been trying to locate a MAF cleaner, Advance Auto is always out and have been tempted to get the Electronics Cleaner instead. Before I buy a new MAF. My mileage is 18 mpg, combination city and hiway, that sucks.

VQP0WER

You think it's supposed to be better then that?

bc06psd

So the only response I got to my question was "junkyard". I assume the poster was refering to the trim piece question, but since he only said junkyard I'm just assuming. Actually I want "new" trim pieces so that can't be right either, dunno. Would anyone else care to share a bit of knowledge. Btw I changed the cv's this weekend. I had to use a cutting torch to get the spindle nuts off. Once I got the spindle nuts off it took all of 45 minutes to finish the job.

VQP0WER

Ok, new trim pieces are not gonna be cheap, but here ya go:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1956_1957.html

bc06psd

Perfect! Thanks for helping the newb.

vinnie999

It's just the sensor, my housing is fine. It was $62.00 including shipping.

T.Bear70

Hey people i'm new here and i dont kno if this queston was answered yet but whatstock wheels from any other nissans fit a 5gen maxima? i seen a thread on it awhile back but now i cant find it

Nelsito65

This sub-forum should give you a good starting point:
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheels-53/

T.Bear70

i jus wanna kno if the nissan murano rims will fit? i seen pics of 4-5th gen maxs wit all srts of nissan rims on here ahile back but now i cant find that thread

Nelsito65

They do.

T.Bear70

ok thanx

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I realize the Mitchell book says that, but generally "adjust" translates to "verify it's not visibly broken, test drive and adjust if needed". So what happens when you set it back to where it was?

On many Nissans (I don't know your model year or engine type) you don't really have to touch any of the throttle body controls when you mess with the valve unless they're in the way.

On many others, as long as it picks up "closed" correctly and the car runs fine, it's fine.

vinnie999

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie999
Thanks for the reply. I have a factory service manual and have used it for the repair. I've read of similar problems (though not as severe) in the posts. The general consensus in those posts was the MAF. I tried cleaning mine but it didnt change anything so I bought a new one on Ebay and am waiting for it to arrive. I've never been one for part changing and am a little concerned that I'm not getting any failure codes. This would normally lead me to believe that it's an ecm problem but the MAF sensor was only $50.00 on Ebay so it's worth a try. I'll post the results. Thanks Again


The sensor was made by Bosch and cured the problem instantly.

chrisl67

Long story short.

Last year car was running poorly, check engine light was on P0135. Won't pass inspection.

My regular mechanic replaced the O2 sensor, light was still on.

Took it to the dealer. Diagnosed with bad Bank1 (firewall side) Pre-Cat
quoted 1300 to replace.

I decided to replace both sides myself the logic being if one was bad the other wouldn't be far behind.

Finally finished the work last month. Car was running better, but still hesitating. Replaced MAF with Napa part. Reset Computer. Car ran like it was brand new.

However, after one drive cycle. (clear codes,drive car, shut off car and allow to cool. Within about 3 seconds of starting the cold car, P0135 back again. Took it back to my mechanic, who checked the wiring all the way from the O2 sensor to the ECU and found nothing wrong.

Took car to the dealer on this past Tuesday. They called up to tell me there were at least 20 things wrong with the car, even though I told them to troubleshoot the light. They found a broken bolt in the mid-pipe flange to the manifold (I knew it was there, the dealer had broken it off when they did the original troubleshooting and didn't tell me). They said there was an exhaust leak, and that was causing the code. So they fixed the broken bolt, and called me to tell me it was fixed($538 labor).

Went to dealer, and sure enough as soon as I turned the key, the P0135 code is back yet again. The dealer told me to call them if the light came back on, which I'll do on Monday.

So I'm left to ponder this issue over the weekend. Admittedly I've never changed the plugs, but the car is running fantastic, and not having any misfires. This seems like a dealer scam, as I've read about 2000 maxima's having recurring O2 sensor issues, but this seems like they know what the problem is, but want to milk me dry before they actually fix it.

I have pictures and details on doing a R&R on the pre-cats if anyone is interested in the details I'll post it in another area once I'm allowed to.

Any suggestions appreciated, because if this continues much longer I'm going to end up driving a Toyota Camry as my next car if my wife has anything to say about it... A fate worse than death...

-Chris

vinnie999

Originally Posted by vinnie999
I bought a 2000 with blown headgaskets. I disassembled it, had the heads surfaced, crack and vacuum checked and put it back together. It started immediately but is weak, I didnt drive it before buying it due to the head gaskets so this may have been an existing condition. When cold it will start, run ok for a few seconds and die. After warming up it will stay running and barely drive but is very weak. It's not missing or throwing any codes. I pulled the front cover back off and double checked the cam timing and it was good. I thought the converters could be clogged so I left the nuts loose and started it for a few seconds. No difference just louder. I cleaned the MAF, no change. I read through the posts about relearning and resetting the ecm but can't find the proceedure. It acts like severly retarded timing. I have my scanner hooked up to it and cant get any codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Vinnie,

You sound like you've done this before, so I'll assume you've checked for vacuum leaks and made sure that's all kosher, right?

No need to worry about the ECM - it will have reset when you had the battery out to do the head gaskets.

Spending $20 on a Haynes manual might be the right thing to do at this time, if you haven't got one already.

If the timing is retarded (there is still a way to check with a newer strobe light, and my 2001 still has the markings) I'd check to make sure the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position/TDC sensors are in place, connected, and working first. I'd then check the manual and see if there is anything specific to your model year series that could also be used as timing-related input to your ECM so it times the engine right.

In the worst case, everything but the spot a sensor fires on on the camshaft sprocket was not lined up - and the ECM will get conflicting signals since when the TDC fires the cam signal isn't where it expects it to be.

If you do figure it out, be sure to post an update!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie999
Thanks for the reply. I have a factory service manual and have used it for the repair. I've read of similar problems (though not as severe) in the posts. The general consensus in those posts was the MAF. I tried cleaning mine but it didnt change anything so I bought a new one on Ebay and am waiting for it to arrive. I've never been one for part changing and am a little concerned that I'm not getting any failure codes. This would normally lead me to believe that it's an ecm problem but the MAF sensor was only $50.00 on Ebay so it's worth a try. I'll post the results. Thanks Again


The sensor was made by Bosch and cured the problem instantly.

NEW DEVELOPMENT

Ok, the MAF sensor cured my problem instantly, for about 20 miles. Now after driving for awhile it's running rich (like black smoke rich) and cutting off at an idle. It's intermittent, but gets worse the longer that it is driven. Still no codes though. I unplugged the o2 sensors while it was running and nothing changed. Anybody got any ideas?

BurntRubber1976

May I ask you something and I hope someone has a valid response...

Yesterday being a pretty cold day and night(the temperature was -20C during the day and -24C at night) I tried to start my 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary which didn't seem to go so well. When I tried to start the car the engine turned over 1.5 turns but too slow to catch so I plugged in the block heater and 3 hours later when I went to start it the engine fired up with no real issues.
Today I attempted to start the engine and it was completely dead, the battery is not even 2 months old(bought at Canadian Tire and it's a Eliminator series with 850 Crank Amps) and I know that it's completely fine seeing as my lights all work without dimming, my interior light stays bright when I crank the Bose stereo however when I advance the key in the ignition to start the car I get nothing. The car ran yesterday fine and today won't take a jump start from my brothers truck, I pulled the battery, brought it inside to warm up and proceeded to charge it. An hour ago I went outside to try to start it and same ordeal took place...everything works, the fuel pump engages along with everything else that prompts on engine start up however the starter didn't even click over. What I'm trying to understand is how from yesterday until today the engine has seemed to fail at firing up. The block heater has been plugged in all day and the battery has been inside the house and charging so what really is left? Solenoids? Ignition Coils? Has anyone had that issue before and if so what did you do to fix it?

Thanks

kknobl

Bear with me, folks. New this forum and have never owned a Nissan (been a GM guy) but am considering a Maxima for my next car.

I'm sure they have timing belts, so my question is at what mileage intervals to they need to be replaced? And how much $$ are we talking.

Thanks for any input.

mandyfig

I think the MAX has a timing chain.

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

You just have to love winter time in Canada. Given the temp. that you have mentioned most batteries would struggle a bit with that bitter cold. Couple of questions is the car parked outside or in the garage? if parked outside any chance that you have it parked facing into the wind, (and is windy throughout the evening)? Even though you say the battery is reasonable new our winter conditions can leave it a bit weak first thing on a very cold morning, but after a few hours and the day time temp rises a bit you are able to start up without an issue. Lights and the internal lighting even with a very weak battery will still function to some degree. I might suggest taking the car back to CT and have them check that battery (as it would still be under warranty) and also check that your alternator is putting out the correct amp. to charge the system properly.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

How are you 'sure' that they have belts? The VQ has a timing chain (well, 3 of them). There is no maintenance interval for the chain.

kaimaxx

Hey,

So I'm looking at buying a used 2002 Max. It has everything I want, plus more that I'll probably take out. And the mileage is around 56k, which is good since i travel a lot.

My question is, it has a history of theft. I do plan on taking my mechanic to see it before i buy it. But do you think it's worth the risk? And he's asking 8900 is that fair???

you can check it out here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...item4a9d7a43d2

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Looks like a nice car, and I feel it is over priced however the mileage is quit good ... personally for 8900 bucks I would have expected it to be completely certified, safety and emission certified.

kaimaxx

I wanna try to negotiate. Even though he says he won't go any less than 8500. What do you think is a more fair price???

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Not being able to see the car is going to make my opinion a tad bit bias, the car has very good mileage but I would want to see all service records if any as well I would want my mechanic to review the car for any hidden issues ... but for even 8500 I would want it emission certified and safety certified. My reasons for insisting this from the seller is because the car has low mileage he should have no issue in accommodating the request failure to do so implies there may be hidden issues that he is disclosing.

edit: had to go back and check that mileage as you said 56k well I am in Canada and our cars are in kilometers not miles so if I convert this car to KM it would be just over 90,000km which would put his asking price between 1500-2000 bucks to high and being sold as is, I would have walked away at that point.

If you truly have 8 thousand to spent you can do much much better

kknobl

Just an assumption on my part, as I kind of always thought the Japanese automakers tended to use belts because of the quieter operation that they provide.

Again, I have about zero experience with foreign cars, so I'm glad to hear the Max's have chains.

vrdublu

Can someone tell me what are the largest 18" wheels that can fit on the 03 maxima se 8" or 8.5" without rubbing? Not lowered currently, but will probably go with a tein coilover package in the summer.

fonz

good tips guys,nissan max has the timing chains

Jasjeet

iTrader: (1)

What do you guys think about replacing the Xenon bulbs in my 03 se.

I want to have 6000K bulbs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT


Will thee work with the stock balasts?

thanks

graydona

Hi All,
I'm a newbie to this site and I have a newbie question...
I just bought an '01 Maxima SE, automatic

I check the iginition timing yesterday. I hooked up my timing light to that little check loop next to the transmission dipstick (as directed by AllData).

This is what I see:



Looks like the timing is at least 25 degrees BTDC. I hooked up my laptop and checked the OBD timing and it says 15 BTDC. Shouldn't they be the same? What am I missing here? Is the ECU retarding the timing that much?

Thanks,
Graydon

Nelsito65

I thought no timing adjusting was necessary on these cars. What kind of issues are you having?

graydona

I'm not having any issues. Car runs great. I just want to understand why my timing light reads 25 degrees and the OBD software reads 15 degrees.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Looks like 15 degrees on the harmonic balancer/pulley/whatever there to me.

The computer controls that - it'll retard and advance the timing as needed - at idle in park it's probably trying to save fuel, so it leans out the mixture and retards it to the point that it runs smooth and the mix lights right based on what the knock sensors and O2 sensors say.

Under load it would advance the timing until the knock sensor signaled. That would give you the most efficient power for the fuel you're burning at your air density.

Just a thought.