is anyone having problems with their rear suspension? the only mod i have on the rear is a swaybar and the struts were replaced a year ago with gr2's, but for some reason the rear keeps bottoming out especially the right rear. oh my! don't let more than one person in the backseat, because i start driving slow enough to drive ms. daisy.

 

I'm replacing the weatherstripping on my '02 sunroof, though the old one is not coming off as easy as I had hoped. The part of the rubber that wedges itself between the glass and the sunroof metal frame acts like it's glued in place. Are there any secrets or something I may be missing?

Does anyone have any experience doing this and can share their wisdom? I did not find this in the "How To" sticky or doing a search. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I am assuming you have a Progress or Cattman RSB (and not Stillen). If that is the case, you need to adjust it so it's not directly under the pivot point of the rear beam. What is happening is that the bar is hitting the (panhard assembly, for lack of a better term). Adjust it slightly back to fix.

 

why are you replacing it, out of curiosity?

 

The old weatherstripping was not sealing correctly. All four rounded corners, along with a couple of other spots, had flattened out and all the up/down and positioning adjustemnts I tried didn't help. Also the previous owner had one of the wind deflectors and the mounting brackets had made a couple of cuts.

What made me even look at it to begin with, was that I was hearing quite a bit of wind noise at highway speeds coming from the roof area.

 

Hey guys,
I am looking at getting replacement brake pads for NYC driving (right now everything is oem on 2k2). Seems that everybody likes hawks. My mechanic swears that Wagner ceramic is "best made in 10 years" and wants $130.00 installed, front only (i can get'em online for $46.00). Anyone heard anything about this brand? Should I go with his or hawks?
Thanks.

 

ceramic pads blow. the only upside is low dust. bite sucks, fade sucks.

Buy Hawk HPS. the comparison isn't even close.

 

Got it.
Thanks, Josh, for this and all your help.

 

thanks irish, i'll take a stab at it this weekend. however, i dont remember having the mount that far forward. i wanted the rear really stiff. by the way, does anyone have any idea how kyb's warranty works?

 

the u-bolt that you need to adjust is on the axle beam. when looking at the back of the car, its the one to the right. move it further out towards the right wheel.

 

the u-bolt that you need to adjust is on the axle beam. when looking at the back of the car, its the one to the right. move it further out towards the right wheel.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2_148_full.jpg

 

I'm new to the org and have a couple relatively simple questions:

Eventually I'd like to run with H-tech and illuminas, but I only have the h-techs now. Should I install them on stock struts?

If so, how hard is the install? I've read threads telling me how to do it, but I have zero experience and only half of the required tools.

Once I get the illuminas should I wait until the stockers fail out, or just make a point of putting on the higher quality strut?

Thanks for the help!

 

Frankly, I would sell the H-techs and not put them on at all. The spring rate is too soft for our heavy cars, and you'll bottom out all over the place, even on illuminas with the firmest settings. Also they result in sloppy handling because they're SOOOO soft.

Sell the junk Teins and buy some Eibachs, which have a similar drop but are firm enough to handle well.

By the way, I'm speaking from experience, having used 4 different springs on my Maxima over the last few years......

 

. . . but I've read good things on here about h-techs . . . hmmm I feel so mislead. My only concern on the eibachs is that the drop isn't as even as I'd like. I'd want the front at least equal if not a little lower than the back. I didn't want to go as low as progress or s-tech, so i was left with h-tech. Any recommendations for a more even drop?

 

A few things to consider:

1. The front of the car is far heavier than the rear, so it's good to have more travel up front (othewise you get a bouncy ride). That's why the BEST, most well-respected performance spring brands (particularly Eibach and H&R) sit a bit higher in the front.

Yes the Eibachs sit SLIGHTLY (0.2" or so...not much) highr in the front than the H-techs, but look at my sig.....as you can see, it's a pretty even drop I think.

2. the H-techs have a very nice ride quality (better than stock) on smooth/normal roads. But if you live anyplace where the road has dips, potholes, or any other imperfections the h-techs will bottom out constantly. i think alot of guys who say they are great simply don't realize that they ARE bottoming out..

3. Sure, you can go lower with Tein S-techs. The problems lie twofold though: First, the lower you go, the more upward your control arm angles are, which creates bump steer and poor handling/suspension geometry. Second, the reduced spring travel will make the car ride like crap.

If you want to go lower, get coilovers, so at least the spring will have a full range of travel (which short spring/strut setups do not have).

Honestly, if you just want the looks, the H-techs "look" nice. But personally I think that handling and ride should come before looks, which is why I hated the H-techs. The eibachs ride firm like SE stock springs, but handling is outstanding (I even autocross with them) and the drop is low enough to look good IMO. Like I said, check out my sig pics and tell me the car doesn't look fairly even...

 

You can also check out this site: http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/sp..._decision.html

Plenty of pics to compare drop heights.

 

That's the site I was using to make up my mind . . . but maybe I got a little too obsessed with an even drop . . . hmmm

I guess Eibach is the way to go then, huh?

btw . . . anyone want to buy an unopened set of tein h-techs?

 

 

Which is better dependability wise the 3 or 3.5 engine.I am looking to buy a 01 to 03 with around 57k miles.My 91 max has 285k miles and my 94 has 270.with my only repair being a distributor at 249 for the 91.
These newer cars don't seem to be as dependable but I love them and will be buying very soon. I got tired of reading and just want to know right now from real Maxima people what will give me the best service.

I did read that the coils need to have a grey dot on the 3.5's.....is that because the factory ones go out soon? Any help and advice on what else to lok out for greatly appreciated.

Be glad to help you out on any Motorcycle problems at my usual hangout Maximum-Suzuki.com

Thanks max

 

3.0's are rock solid. Not sure about the 3.5's but the 3.0's need the grey dot coils as well.

 

Thanks,I did some more searching and decided to go with a 01 over the 03.Saving money too.the car I am looking at has 103k miles on it.I hope someone has replaced them by now.Is there a special aftermarket coil that has the dots or is this just a newer factory part to replace a faulty original piece?

 

Go with OEM coils if you need to replace them. Since it's an 01, it may already have the grey dot coils installed.

 

Hi guys,
Here is a "strange" question about 2k2, 31K. It strated this morning. When I hit brakes tail lights indicator on dash comes on, let go- goes away. I checked connector assembly (or what ever name is) and it does look kind of burned. According to manual-one of the tail bulbs should be burned out, but they both work. could this mean something else- sensor may be?
Thanks.

 

Try changing the bulb first. ^^

 

yea i was thinkin about gettin a K&N air filter...and i looked on this website and i was wondering do you have to get anything else with it...or jus get the filter???. Thanks....

 

Just the panel filter? Other than the cleaning kit, there's really nothing else you need.
If anything, make sure it fits securely: I used the K&N from my dead 3rd gen in my 5.5th gen but it didn't have a snug fit. I think they have an adaptor these days, but I just glued a thin piece of rubber to hold it in.

 

appreciate it...do you know where the cheapest place i can order them online..i was lookin on overnightautoparts.com..and they had it for 38.88....

 

I dunno..probably won't differ that much from place to place...there's always eBay &
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=...en&btnG=Search

 

Hi there, I have a 2K2 max and am looking into upgrading my headunit stereo. Any recommendations on ones that will fit? I am particularly interested in Alpine units with mp3 and ipod capable or ready. Also with Sat ready. Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

for answers from a more educated crowd, check the audio sub-forum.

 

or you can just check Crutchfield.com punch in your car make and model and they tell you what fits - if you think their too pricey right down the unit you want and search for the best deal..Crutchfield is the best - I installed my own and Im not the handiest when it comes to installing anything - then again this site has helped me out BIGTIME.. I got me an ALPINE MP3 player for 150 with the install kit and an extra adapter since I had the BOSE unit..

 

Since I don't have enough posts to start a new thread, I'm hoping that someone might see this question and give me an answer.

Has anybody who's had to deal with the problem that TSB NTB02-051a describes that involves changing out the rear o2 sensors and flashing the ECM had also gotten a P0430 code before the fix?

 

I had P0420, which is for the other catalytic but no O2 code. Many people say that changing rear O2 sensor fixes the catalytic code as well but it's no guarantee. Remember that catalytics are covered under federal emissions warranty for 80K miles/8 years and so if you have a P0430 code and under 80K miles then just have the dealer change the cat for free.

 

I understand and have read the PO420 code TSB, but I got the other codes that are discussed in NTB02-051a along with a P0430 code. Unfortunately, my car just passed 93k miles so I had the rear o2 sensors changed at my expense and the ECM updated as per NTB02-051a for free and now I'm sweating out the ECM relearn to see if I get another P0430 error.

 

alright, ive read and read and read, and i just wanted to make 100% sure that this is the problem. 3 days ago, ces went on. the machine threw a p1320, which from what ive heard is the very common ignition coil problem. i have a few questions. first, how urgent is this matter, the reason i ask is that i have just started an internship and i will likely not be free until late this wknd into next week. secondly, i hear that with propper testing you can usually pinpoint the coil to each cylinder to figure which one is failing. the only problem i see is that if i replace one or two now, ill run into problems down the road. how common is it for two to fail in sequence, or within a couple months of eachother. finally, how hard is install? i want to order them from dave b. to save money and support an absolutely awesome and helpful guy (helped me las month with stablilizer bar endlinks and bushings). any help would be greatly appreciated. if this happens to be a repost (which im sure it is...sorry search doesnt owrk even though i paid for it lol) please dont flame me. Fianlly, could it be something else? am i just jumping to conclusions because of soooo many coil pak horror stories, or am i, unfortionately, on the right path to finding the problem. btw i refuse to have a garage or nissan do any more than just diagnose the code for me because they figure im a younger kid driving a nicer car and they can charge me and arm and a leg for something as simple as an oil filter (120 for filter and change...ture story!!! LOL)

 

^^ Order them and get them changed ASAP. Since you have a 2000, I'm willing to bet that you don't have the grey dot (updated) coils, in which case you should replace all 6 coils.

Last summer I was driving home from at meet in Columbus and I got a SES light, but the car ran fine. A few days later it started misfiring and it sounded like I had a hole in my exhaust.

 

I was wondering was there a way to get any rotors that dont rust besides gettin drilled or slotted rotors??? money kind of tight...and by the way how much do the drilled and slotted ones run anywayz???

 

Thanks AcidJake75, I will look into crutchfield. I have heard good things about them.

 

Not sure about the rust/oxidation...but you can browse the Group Deal section for good prices on any type of rotor you need.
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=21

 

[QUOTE=00MaxSE]^^ Order them and get them changed ASAP. Since you have a 2000, I'm willing to bet that you don't have the grey dot (updated) coils, in which case you should replace all 6 coils.[QUOTE]

thanks for the bit of info, i dont want my car to mess up or anything, so i think ill go ahead and order tomorrow. thanks for the help. jason