Quick question. Can you take your car with a Injen CAI through an auto car wash without hydro locking the engine if the car is in neutral?

 

Of course you can.

 

As long as you don’t drive it though a pond, you will be fine. (re: fully submerged).


If I could give advice, I would say steer clear of S-Techs and get CO's. S-Techs are too low up front and leave no suspension travel and the spring rate is too low for the drop.

For pics, try here:
http://forums.maxima.org/members-rides-65/ The Law's is probably the looks you're wanting to see.

Rear valve cover.


For an A33 body/chassis, IMO that width is too thin and the offset is too high. For more on offsets, etc. try here:
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...-will-fit.html
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...read-look.html


I didn't see any mention of a front wheel alignment?

 

what about the car washers that wash the underside of the car? same thing, no damage?

and thank you

 

As long as you don’t drive it though a pond, you will be fine. (re: fully submerged).

 

awesome, and again thank you

 

A little over a month ago my wife was driving our car and suddenly the airbag light and abs lights came on. She pulled over and turned off the car. When she went to turn it back on, it just clicked. I got there 30 mins later and it was fine. Drove it around for an hour and everything worked perfectly. Waited another week and it happened again, but this time it was while it was idling after sitting out in the cold all night. At that point I started searching the forums and racking my brain. I checked the alternator, battery, sanded down a bunch of grounding points and recharged the battery. Everything worked after that and has been working for the past month.

Today we were driving on the freeway and I notice the ABS light was on. Then the Brake light came on and I was pulling over. While I was just sitting on the shoulder of an off ramp, my whole instrument panel went dead: Gas gauge bottomed out, Tach and all lights winked out and the car started to idol really roughly. I rev'ed the engine and everything went back to normal. I was able to drive 100+ miles home without any problems.

Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? My fear is that it is my ECU dying out, but I don't want to just replace that because of an uninformed hunch. I replaced the alternator a year ago and the battery is an interstate 85 month that is about 3 years old.

Thanks for any help.

01 Maxima SE Automatic

 

Help needed!!

I'm in the middle of replacing both drive shafts but I cannot for the life of me get the passenger side shaft out of the transmission! This is in a 2000. I have tried yanking on it, hitting the shaft from the other side with a screw driver and hammer (as per the FSM), but nothing gets it out of the transmission!

Please someone help me who has done this before....

I would have posted this as a new thread but I can't post new threads yet.

Thanks so much!

 

man up

mine, it took two of us pulling on it to get it out.

 

Funny because about an hour ago I asked myself out loud if I was going to get a "real man" to finish the job or if I could do it myself.

I think I just realized my major error -- there are 3 bolts holding the carrier bearing onto the engine support bracket....I just saw that the support bracket exists. These bolts are going to be a huge PITA to get out because of the exhaust being in the way. SOB I hate doing CV shafts.

 

Hows it goin guys in from NY i have a 03 maxima GLE that i just got 19" g37s wheels for it but now i need to figure out the springs to get money is a little tight. so i need springs that will make the front and rear hug the tires without rubbing

 

Still trying to get this passenger side CV axle out...if anyone can help.

 

Here's a question on headlights. I am looking to purchase new halo headlights for my 2000 GLE max. I lilve in Canada and our cars run on this daylight headlight system. These headlights are from the states. Will the daylight system have any effect on the headlights? And if so, is there a way that i can make them work?

 

get a few ex. and reach over from the top. thats what i did. im sorry but im cant really explain for i dont know many of the parts names. But there is a spot above the sway bar that you can reach over. It sucks but works.

 

Oops, sorry. Was writing from my phone, and didn't notice.

Arcueda, open your hood and shut the driver's door again. See if the squeak goes away. That worked for me, and I replaced the bump stops under the hood. No more squeaky noise.

 

Sellers will say they don't know. That may be true, but they don't care either. You'll hear stuff like "try it and see" but you're stuck with it if it does not work, since a) they have your money, b) you're in another country, and c) you probably installed it to find out it does not work.

The Canadian DRL system is controlled by a white box set back a bit from the headlights on the passenger side under the hood. Based on some sensor input, it outputs 10V to both high and low beams on your headlight bulbs. If you search around the site here, someone posted a circuit diagram for it.

Knowing this, there are a couple of ways you can wire it:

a) wire it to your high beams only, which I assume will be separate from your replacement lights, and run a stock halogen there

b) figure out a way to have full 12 V output and run that to your halos. While "technically" a DRL at that point, Transport Canada or a local cop may have a different opinion

c) Run it to your fog lights - same caveats as B

 

Ok so im about to replace my oil pan gasket and do a full oil change over to synthetic. I also want to put in a oil pressure gauge to hide in the cabin. What will i have to hook the gauge up to to make it work right. I know the 5th gens have a oil pressure warning light. But will that give the gauge a good reading. I tryed searching but was not able to fing anything on this.

 

Quick question, how to i change the wiring from these head light to these

 

The wiring on both of those headlights are exactly the same. it is plug and play

 

thank youuu

 

Hi everyone, recently my car has developped a problem. BTW, its an auto tranny

here are the symptoms :

-engine cuts when approching 3500 rpm, it wont go further ( ONLY WHEN CRUISING )

-when i FLOOR IT ( and only when i floor it ), tranny doesn't downshift ( i assume the tranny won't downshift to a gear that will lead the engine to rev more than 4000 rpm... )

-when my cruise speed reach about 60 mph , engine tends to sputter/miss a little bit but not much

seems like a MAF problem so far BUT :

-in neutral position, the engine can rev without any hesitation until fuel cut-off ( approx 7000 rpm).

- Also, the ECU does not throw any codes

So the main question is : Is it possible for my engine to rev to 7000 rpm without any hesitation if the MAF is dead ?

If not, then what could be the problem ?

 

mine did the same thing, after replacing my MAF the problem went away so its most likely it. defiantly worth it if your has miles on it.

 

ok thx ! BTW, I'm from quebec and here every auto part stores seem to sell their maxima 2001 MAF for about 200 $ or more ! I read everywhere on the forums that people get their MAF for about a hundred bucks or so ( online) ... Do you know some auto part websites that can ship me the MAF here in Quebec ?

 

Here's my "new guy" question.. i have a 2001 20th anniv... if my car's been sitting a while, it starts fine. if i drive somewhere.. leave it for half an hour or an hour.. and come back to start it, it sounds half dead and sluggish. its most noticeable if i start it after its only sat a few minutes.. i was told it was common with 01's.. anyone run into this? I'd love to fix it.

 

I'm having the same problem. Posted it a few threads back. only one reply so far. I've asked this same question on several forums on the net with no luck. Most say change the MAF. If it weren't so damn expensive (atleast the 02 are) I'd try it first.

 

hello guys
i have a problem with my ac. on very hot days it blows out very hot air but in mild days the ac blows out cold air. could anyone tell me the reason why this happens? the compressor is good cause it was recently change for a new one. do you think i dont have enough r134a? thanks

 

My car is doing this exact same thing. I checked the VIAS and it felt ok (there was plenty of pressure on the actuation rod at least). It's not throwing any codes either. I'm going psychotic trying to figure out what's happening without throwing unnecessary parts at the thing.

Slim

 

I had the same issue yesterday. I have always cold air, when the weather is mild. But yesterday we were in the 80's and the freeking driver's vent was blowing warm air. Weird.

 

I have a 2000 maxima. When I start going and i hit around 25-30 mph it revs up to around 2500 rpm for a second and then drops back down to normal. If i gradually get up to speed it doesn't do it as bad and if i floor it, it does just fine. Any suggestions on what it could be. Thanks

 

from what research i've seen on here,the IACV would be the culprit.

 

I've been reading through pages and pages of motor mount discussions. I still can't find my answer. I would assume my mounts are electric, but maybe someone can help. I have an 03 gle. Are mine electric or not? It's funny how the haynes and chilton manuals say pretty much NOTHING about the motor mounts. Any help is appreciated.

 

So, I went to the dealer and bought myself a new MAF for ~$125. Fixed the problem. I talked to a tech there and he said if the car isn't throwing any codes but is running poorly, 95% of the time it's the MAF. I just need to go back and get the ECU reflashed? The car runs great now, but everything I read here says its a good idea. I'll prolly be doing that nex week.

Slim

 

Whoa, late reply. But this is definitely not a plug and play swap. You'll need to wire in harnesses for the high beams. Or have no high beams at all.

 

I have a 2000 Maxima SE. It has 85100 miles.It's very dirty on the outside of the fuel hatch, but only on top, not the sides or the bottom. It's also very dirty inside the hatch around the gas cap. I noticed this a month or two ago. There aren't any real noticeable performance issues, not from what I can tell anyway. I use premium fuel only in the car, as is recommended in my manual.


My last oil change was in July of last year, however the car only has 1700 miles on it since then. Could this still be it in some way? I was going to bring it in to the local shop I go to but figured I'd put a post up on here first. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like a leaky seal around the cap. You probably just need a new gas cap. Next time you take the gas cap off to put fuel in, check for a faint hissing or huffing sound. If it doesn't do it, your gas cap isn't sealing properly.

As far as the oil, I would change it out. If it's been sitting that long, it'd probably be good for the car. Although it really shouldn't have anything to do with your gas cap. Oil shouldn't be in your gas tank.

 

Thanks for the response. I just filled up the tank tonight, I forget if the usual "hissing" noise was present or not...I think it was. Anyway, thanks for the tip..at least it gives me an idea.

 

Hello, i just recently replaced my MAF because my 2000 Nissan Max GLE was having trouble idling when cold, as well as trouble accelerating. The new MAF did the trick for a few days then i was having the same idling problem again, however the car still accelerates fine. I was reading the forums and read a few different possible fixes, Upper intake manifold gasket might need to be replaced or the IACV. Any advice?

 

2000 maxima gle 94,000. My check engine light came on. I got it check and was told that I need to replace one of the oxygen sensor. Picked it up and it does feel like it lost some accelerating when I hit the gas. Does replacing the oxygen sensor do something to the rpm or something? any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

It may or may not. What was the code?

 

i found this site a couple of days ago, great site! i really need some advice and help. just swapped out an alternator on 2001 and it's not showing any readings from an Avance Auto tester. they say it's a wiring issue. this is the 2nd alternator in 16 months. please help with any suggestions. desparate