5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Hello, I urgently need some advice regarding my 2000 Maxima. I have been battling multiple codes for a long time and I am almost out of money to keep putting into this car.
The car currently has 86K. I replaced the MAF (after market) for the first time on 6/2010 and it went bad again in 2/2011. I replaced it the 2nd time with Nissan original part since the car was not running. I did not have the ECM reprogrammed by the dealer after changing the MAF. I have also had other codes present for P1320 (along with P0302 and P0306). After doing a lot of research here I decided that I will purchase the ignition coils from Dave B and had my mechanic replaced all 6. The old ones had the grey dot on them so it is not that I have the original bad coils. I replaced them and now I have codes P0158 and P0420. One time in the past I also had code P0430 but it went away and never came back.
Is it possible to have so many codes and so many things go bad all at the same time?
Regarding my P0158 and P0420, I know the P0158 is probably for the O2 sensors and the P0420 is for the cat. My car is CA emission so it has 4 O2 sensors. I need the car to pass inspection in NJ and the car won’t pass with the light on. The car runs fine otherwise.
I really do not want to keep on putting money into the car if I am not going to be able to get the CEL fixed. Maxima is a great car when it works fine but I am sure Nissan knows they messed up with all the emissions parts.
Any advice?
The car currently has 86K. I replaced the MAF (after market) for the first time on 6/2010 and it went bad again in 2/2011. I replaced it the 2nd time with Nissan original part since the car was not running. I did not have the ECM reprogrammed by the dealer after changing the MAF. I have also had other codes present for P1320 (along with P0302 and P0306). After doing a lot of research here I decided that I will purchase the ignition coils from Dave B and had my mechanic replaced all 6. The old ones had the grey dot on them so it is not that I have the original bad coils. I replaced them and now I have codes P0158 and P0420. One time in the past I also had code P0430 but it went away and never came back.
Is it possible to have so many codes and so many things go bad all at the same time?
Regarding my P0158 and P0420, I know the P0158 is probably for the O2 sensors and the P0420 is for the cat. My car is CA emission so it has 4 O2 sensors. I need the car to pass inspection in NJ and the car won’t pass with the light on. The car runs fine otherwise.
I really do not want to keep on putting money into the car if I am not going to be able to get the CEL fixed. Maxima is a great car when it works fine but I am sure Nissan knows they messed up with all the emissions parts.
Any advice?
Idle control valve issues
Ok, so I bought my 01 AE about 2 months ago. I guess I didn't do a long enough test drive because ever since I got it, it dies at idle after about 15 minutes of driving. It has 185k miles. I cleaned the MAF, throttle body and ICV about a month ago and did the idle learn procedure. That didn't help so I ordered a new ICV and just put it in this weekend. The problem is now worse. What should I do?
I just put the ICV in late last night and had to drive it to work today so I have not done the idle learn procedure yet. Anything else I should do?
Thanks!
I just put the ICV in late last night and had to drive it to work today so I have not done the idle learn procedure yet. Anything else I should do?
Thanks!
Hey guys,
Hope you're all doing well. Quick Q! What type of wrench (size, recommended type from experience, etc.) will I need to remove the bolts and install FTSB on a 2003 maxima. It's a Custommaxima Front Strut bar.
Thank you so much.
Or socket(s) for that matter since i'll be using a torque wrench...
Hope you're all doing well. Quick Q! What type of wrench (size, recommended type from experience, etc.) will I need to remove the bolts and install FTSB on a 2003 maxima. It's a Custommaxima Front Strut bar.
Thank you so much.
Or socket(s) for that matter since i'll be using a torque wrench...
Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-14-2011 at 01:34 PM.
jpdesigns--I've never had that on a max, but I did have that on my girl's jeep. Drove me crazy until I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor...cheap enough to try. Easy install too. You might have 2 sensors, one for guage & fan, one for ECU...might as well replace both. Probably less than $40, good preventative maintenance if it doesn't help. No guarantee, but worth a shot.
So I think my knocking sound is the fuel damper...there are horrible sounds of "clank clank clank" in the fuel line, which are louder than on top of the cylinders. I can also see a bit of exhaust when I fire it up (in the engine compartment), so I'm thinking I may need headers soon (not pulling 'em for just a gasket) . Any CARB legal headers for calispec?
So I think my knocking sound is the fuel damper...there are horrible sounds of "clank clank clank" in the fuel line, which are louder than on top of the cylinders. I can also see a bit of exhaust when I fire it up (in the engine compartment), so I'm thinking I may need headers soon (not pulling 'em for just a gasket) . Any CARB legal headers for calispec?
fsaenz...sounds like bad O2 sensors or cats..., you may need to find out if your car still actually has working cats, or if the O2 sensors failed. If you had a bad MAF, could they be simply fouled? Have you tried clearing codes and seeing if they return...I think Autozone can do that. Sometimes codes pop during temporary events like smoky bad-MAF engines...otherwise, probably see if a muffler shop can check your cats cheap and replace oxygen sensors if they're fine...
This might seem kinda minor, but I can't get my trunk light to come on. I assume that the trunk switch might have something to do with it, but I can't get the switch itself off of the assembly that it is mounted on. (Trunk latch.) The bulb itself works, and if I can't get a new switch is there a way to bypass the switch? There doesn't seem to be much wire to work with there. Thanks in advance.
Dont go out of your way to change it, rather change it when you get the full life out of it and its busted / gone / rusted - thus, needs changing. I usually get an OEM one.. then again, I dont care much for "performance" on this car.
ok, the wife went out to her 2000 Maxima SE manual tranny with a little over a 100,000 miles on it, and comes back in, saying her car won't go in gear.
i tell her to take my son's Sentra SE R to work cause his butt is still in bed, and i don't have time to mess with her car.
going out to the garage, i raise the hood, and find the oil resivoir bone dry to the clutch master cylinder. going to give my Nissan dealer an ear full when i go up there, since they just serviced the car not a week ago.
putting brake fluid in the resivoir doesn't fix the problem. do i need to adjust or bleed the clutch? and how do i go about that? never done that before.
sorry for the long post, just ranting i guess.
i tell her to take my son's Sentra SE R to work cause his butt is still in bed, and i don't have time to mess with her car.
going out to the garage, i raise the hood, and find the oil resivoir bone dry to the clutch master cylinder. going to give my Nissan dealer an ear full when i go up there, since they just serviced the car not a week ago.
putting brake fluid in the resivoir doesn't fix the problem. do i need to adjust or bleed the clutch? and how do i go about that? never done that before.
sorry for the long post, just ranting i guess.
Hi guys, I have question, on my moms 2000 Nissan Maxima, the dash e-brake light comes one, the red "!" with " (!) " - Why does this come on? The light came on a few days ago (Sunday/Saturday) and then yesterday (Monday) the entire master brake cylinder was empty. I topped it off about 3/4 and the brake seems good, but the light is still on. Any ideas as to why? The pads still have easy 60% life on them with cross drilled rotors. Whys the light on and how did my fluid drain away all of a sudden?
P.S. I recently changed my ball-joint, and the mechanic had the suspension wayyy right ---> towards the driver door ....? It was pushed over pretty far, It looked like it was going to snap
P.S. I recently changed my ball-joint, and the mechanic had the suspension wayyy right ---> towards the driver door ....? It was pushed over pretty far, It looked like it was going to snap
ok, the wife went out to her 2000 Maxima SE manual tranny with a little over a 100,000 miles on it, and comes back in, saying her car won't go in gear.
i tell her to take my son's Sentra SE R to work cause his butt is still in bed, and i don't have time to mess with her car.
going out to the garage, i raise the hood, and find the oil resivoir bone dry to the clutch master cylinder. going to give my Nissan dealer an ear full when i go up there, since they just serviced the car not a week ago.
putting brake fluid in the resivoir doesn't fix the problem. do i need to adjust or bleed the clutch? and how do i go about that? never done that before.
sorry for the long post, just ranting i guess.
i tell her to take my son's Sentra SE R to work cause his butt is still in bed, and i don't have time to mess with her car.
going out to the garage, i raise the hood, and find the oil resivoir bone dry to the clutch master cylinder. going to give my Nissan dealer an ear full when i go up there, since they just serviced the car not a week ago.
putting brake fluid in the resivoir doesn't fix the problem. do i need to adjust or bleed the clutch? and how do i go about that? never done that before.
sorry for the long post, just ranting i guess.
Try to top it up atleast 2/4 and see if that helps any, even a little. Thats the best temporary fix to get the car going, otherwise you'll leave it parked like that? Try to google it or take it back to the Nissan dealer and have them bleed it for free since they did the job and it leaked.
thanks for the reply and yes i tried that, and the pedal does come off the floor about halfway, but still doesn't let the tranny shift into gear.
i may have air in the line, but again, i don't know how to bleed it.
jpdesigns--I've never had that on a max, but I did have that on my girl's jeep. Drove me crazy until I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor...cheap enough to try. Easy install too. You might have 2 sensors, one for guage & fan, one for ECU...might as well replace both. Probably less than $40, good preventative maintenance if it doesn't help. No guarantee, but worth a shot.
Didn't think it was necessary to make a thread for this, so...
What are these called and what are the part numbers for them?
First thing, plastic piece that secures with pop tabs on the underside of the front:
Second thing, plastic piece that goes inside the passenger side wheel well:
What are these called and what are the part numbers for them?
First thing, plastic piece that secures with pop tabs on the underside of the front:
Second thing, plastic piece that goes inside the passenger side wheel well:
Didn't think it was necessary to make a thread for this, so...
What are these called and what are the part numbers for them?
First thing, plastic piece that secures with pop tabs on the underside of the front:
Second thing, plastic piece that goes inside the passenger side wheel well:
What are these called and what are the part numbers for them?
First thing, plastic piece that secures with pop tabs on the underside of the front:
Second thing, plastic piece that goes inside the passenger side wheel well:
Not sure, but I just pulled these off of my 2000 Max until I can get some zip-tie action going. It looks like you still have it on there, but half of it is pulled back. Or am I seeing it wrong?
I think the zip-ties might work just fine, can't afford much these days.
Not sure, but I just pulled these off of my 2000 Max until I can get some zip-tie action going. It looks like you still have it on there, but half of it is pulled back. Or am I seeing it wrong?
I think the zip-ties might work just fine, can't afford much these days.
I think the zip-ties might work just fine, can't afford much these days.
I'm trying to figure it out because I'm ordering all the parts to fix the car including a new bumper and I need these two pieces as well, but I don't know what they are.
Because I heard one of my mechanic keep saying that the cat will be gone around 180k km, and I am like..... that sounds kind of low......
2001, Nissan Maxima, GLE, ECM Replacement
I was driving from Atlanta to Jacksonville a couple of weeks ago and my IACV went out on the highway. This happened one week after I had my Mass Air Flow replaced. I kept throwing it into neutral and found my way to a mechanic. The mechanic did not have the IACV in stock and could not get it for another day. However, he adjusted the idle manually so I would be able to get it back to Atlanta. I had the IACV replaced, but the car started reving too much and took off everytime I took my foot off of the brake in drive. My mechanic had me go to a nissan service center, and they informed me that the new IACV shorted the ECM.
I discussed this with my original mechanic and they said they could find me a refurbed ECM and have it installed for $310. However, in speaking with the Nissan dealer they said that it would then have to be towed to the dealership and the ECM would need to be reprogrammed.
To get around this, I am wondering if I can just buy the ECM from my mechanic ($180), drive to the Nissan dealership and install it in their parking lot. If I do this they can reprogram it there. This will save me the towing fee as well as the labor to half way install it at my mechanic.
However, I can't find a DIY on how to install the ECM. Will this work? Is it difficult? Can anyone give me some help? I am thinking of trying to get this done tomorrow if possible. Your help if greatly appreciated!
I was driving from Atlanta to Jacksonville a couple of weeks ago and my IACV went out on the highway. This happened one week after I had my Mass Air Flow replaced. I kept throwing it into neutral and found my way to a mechanic. The mechanic did not have the IACV in stock and could not get it for another day. However, he adjusted the idle manually so I would be able to get it back to Atlanta. I had the IACV replaced, but the car started reving too much and took off everytime I took my foot off of the brake in drive. My mechanic had me go to a nissan service center, and they informed me that the new IACV shorted the ECM.
I discussed this with my original mechanic and they said they could find me a refurbed ECM and have it installed for $310. However, in speaking with the Nissan dealer they said that it would then have to be towed to the dealership and the ECM would need to be reprogrammed.
To get around this, I am wondering if I can just buy the ECM from my mechanic ($180), drive to the Nissan dealership and install it in their parking lot. If I do this they can reprogram it there. This will save me the towing fee as well as the labor to half way install it at my mechanic.
However, I can't find a DIY on how to install the ECM. Will this work? Is it difficult? Can anyone give me some help? I am thinking of trying to get this done tomorrow if possible. Your help if greatly appreciated!
There probably is but it would involve some searching. The ECU is located between the drivers and passenger side foot wells. There are small panels which pop off to reveal the ECU. Disconnect the battery, disconnect the large harness, and it should be removed with a few 10mm bolts.
Is there a way to take off the shifter **** on the 5.5 autos? and replace with a 6 speed ****? I just want it there because of my keepsakes from my first girl. Already have her old SER license plate on my max.
Also is there anywhere to get the new SER badges for cheaper than 20 bucks each?
Also is there anywhere to get the new SER badges for cheaper than 20 bucks each?
Do you want to know the specific name of that plastic thing in the wheel-well? Or do you know that their called fenders liners ... your questions confuses me.
If you want new fender liners or decent ones, buy them online/locally etc etc and installed them via self-tapping screws.
Same goes for the undercarriage plastic. Call your local dealership and tell them you want the part number / name for the plastic trim that protects your AC condenser and Rad, the plastic trim under them thats held in by push-in pins.
If you want new fender liners or decent ones, buy them online/locally etc etc and installed them via self-tapping screws.
Same goes for the undercarriage plastic. Call your local dealership and tell them you want the part number / name for the plastic trim that protects your AC condenser and Rad, the plastic trim under them thats held in by push-in pins.
Hi guys, I have question, on my moms 2000 Nissan Maxima, the dash e-brake light comes one, the red "!" with " (!) " - Why does this come on? The light came on a few days ago (Sunday/Saturday) and then yesterday (Monday) the entire master brake cylinder was empty. I topped it off about 3/4 and the brake seems good, but the light is still on. Any ideas as to why? The pads still have easy 60% life on them with cross drilled rotors. Whys the light on and how did my fluid drain away all of a sudden?
P.S. I recently changed my ball-joint, and the mechanic had the suspension wayyy right ---> towards the driver door ....? It was pushed over pretty far, It looked like it was going to snap
P.S. I recently changed my ball-joint, and the mechanic had the suspension wayyy right ---> towards the driver door ....? It was pushed over pretty far, It looked like it was going to snap
Ok, so I bought my 01 AE about 2 months ago. I guess I didn't do a long enough test drive because ever since I got it, it dies at idle after about 15 minutes of driving. It has 185k miles. I cleaned the MAF, throttle body and ICV about a month ago and did the idle learn procedure. That didn't help so I ordered a new ICV and just put it in this weekend. The problem is now worse. What should I do?
I just put the ICV in late last night and had to drive it to work today so I have not done the idle learn procedure yet. Anything else I should do?
Thanks!
I just put the ICV in late last night and had to drive it to work today so I have not done the idle learn procedure yet. Anything else I should do?
Thanks!
Attempted to do the idle learn procedure just now. I'm not sure it took because it's supposed to idle for 20 seconds after you hook the brown sensor plug back in and it died right around 20 seconds. Also, I can see coolant dripping out of the ICV/hose connection even though the hose is tight. Would this mean anything? I ready to sell this car even though I would love it if it would just run.
Have received any codes (SES light on at all)? Have you checked to see if there are any pending codes, your SES light may not be on now but you could still have pending codes stored in the memory you should check this out. Also when you mentioned you cleaned your throttle body, did you in any way touch or move the buttery fly valve inside.
From all the threads I have read about cleaning the throttle body every guys has stated "don't move the butterfly with you fingers" as you run the risk of permanently damaging the small servo mechanism which in turns screws the your ideal air flow. I am sure those that have performed throttle body cleaning will jump in now that you have brought light to the fact you may have messed with the butterfly valve ... I don't have an answer for what can be done if you did damage the servo mechanism.
From all the threads I have read about cleaning the throttle body every guys has stated "don't move the butterfly with you fingers" as you run the risk of permanently damaging the small servo mechanism which in turns screws the your ideal air flow. I am sure those that have performed throttle body cleaning will jump in now that you have brought light to the fact you may have messed with the butterfly valve ... I don't have an answer for what can be done if you did damage the servo mechanism.
To actually fix the problem, go ahead and order up a braided stainless replacement line from ImportRP - a sponsor here on this site, and order a new slave cylinder from Advance Auto Parts or Oreilly - stay away from AutoZone unless you can get Beck-Arnley parts from them. You just need the short line from ImportRP, not the full replacement long line.
There's a few threads on this topic, if you'll do a search.
ok first post.
im looking to buy a i35 or 02-03 max if i can find a clean 6 speed, currently drive a p11(g20) and had a b14(sentra) before that. Nissan FTW
ive been reading on here for a while now, and just want to ask couple things.
Is looking at those cars with 100k+ a bad idea?i know the motor is good if maint. is up to date but how about other stuff? mostly scared of the 4speed auto.
i know of the oil issue on 02-03 and read that somemotors were replaced under warranty, the the recall fix the issue on all cars or just a fresh motor that still burns oil?
i like the i35 looks better but the only drawback is the auto trans. Is that a reliable transmission? anyone added extra coolers to help keep the oil temps down?
looking forward to join this community.
Thanks for answers
im looking to buy a i35 or 02-03 max if i can find a clean 6 speed, currently drive a p11(g20) and had a b14(sentra) before that. Nissan FTW
ive been reading on here for a while now, and just want to ask couple things.
Is looking at those cars with 100k+ a bad idea?i know the motor is good if maint. is up to date but how about other stuff? mostly scared of the 4speed auto.
i know of the oil issue on 02-03 and read that somemotors were replaced under warranty, the the recall fix the issue on all cars or just a fresh motor that still burns oil?
i like the i35 looks better but the only drawback is the auto trans. Is that a reliable transmission? anyone added extra coolers to help keep the oil temps down?
looking forward to join this community.
Thanks for answers
ok first post.
im looking to buy a i35 or 02-03 max if i can find a clean 6 speed, currently drive a p11(g20) and had a b14(sentra) before that. Nissan FTW
ive been reading on here for a while now, and just want to ask couple things.
Is looking at those cars with 100k+ a bad idea?i know the motor is good if maint. is up to date but how about other stuff? mostly scared of the 4speed auto.
i know of the oil issue on 02-03 and read that somemotors were replaced under warranty, the the recall fix the issue on all cars or just a fresh motor that still burns oil?
i like the i35 looks better but the only drawback is the auto trans. Is that a reliable transmission? anyone added extra coolers to help keep the oil temps down?
looking forward to join this community.
Thanks for answers
im looking to buy a i35 or 02-03 max if i can find a clean 6 speed, currently drive a p11(g20) and had a b14(sentra) before that. Nissan FTW
ive been reading on here for a while now, and just want to ask couple things.
Is looking at those cars with 100k+ a bad idea?i know the motor is good if maint. is up to date but how about other stuff? mostly scared of the 4speed auto.
i know of the oil issue on 02-03 and read that somemotors were replaced under warranty, the the recall fix the issue on all cars or just a fresh motor that still burns oil?
i like the i35 looks better but the only drawback is the auto trans. Is that a reliable transmission? anyone added extra coolers to help keep the oil temps down?
looking forward to join this community.
Thanks for answers
At high mileage, there are issues with transmission wear for any car, but the 4 speed in the 5 gen and I35 is said to be as good as it gets in the durability department. The problem is that many people obviously abuse them.
As far as the oil burning goes, it's hit and miss. Some do, many don't. I am not sure what Nissan's policy is to them now, but the safest assumption is that you're on your own.