I'm looking for some help! My Maxima is jerking violent at random! Like you disconnect the battery then pop it back on, or got off the petal and right back on super fast! Today it bucked like a damn mule at a stoplight! is this fuel related or is the servo on the throttle body going out??!! Thanks

 

let others comment...but it sounds like a MAF problem to me

actually what year? 02/03 has a "drive by wire" throttle and sometimes you have to relearn the idle and position of the throttle body

 

2002 6-speed and yep dead petal And how do you "relearn" the petal?? FNG here lol

 

Ok so i have noticed that the maxi has not been as responsive as it was and that there has been a loss of power over time. I know there are many threads about this and i have done my share of research on the topic. Just to get another opinion, what are some things that will fix this. (such as cleaning MAF, spark plugs, etc)

 

http://forums.maxima.org/7119337-post2.html

But make sure the car is at operating temp.

 

Hey guys...just a while ago my outer tie rod broke on my max...would it be wise to have the inner tie rod replaced also? or should i just leave it alone...Pep boys chargin me 200$ for towing, labor, alignment and the part..Didnt think that was too bad of a quote?

 

Might as well since they are down there.

 

I came from the VW world too. The Maxima has different quirks than the VW platforms of the same age, but IMO are easier to work on overall.

RE&RE the engine is in the FSM (list for download is http://www.aubreyandcharles.com/ServiceManuals/ ), and for our cars the Haynes isn't bad either.

As far as buy a crate motor vs rebuild yourself, see what kind of parts you can get locally first, and then think about what "blew" the motor. If it threw a rod, it's probably not going to rebuild well

There aren't that many connectors on my 2001 Max, so to get the motor out would suck less than a 2001 A4. On the other hand, I don't think you can unbolt the front clip on the car and have a full frontal view like you can on the later Audis.

 

would 6speed swap parts from an 02max work to convert my 01 auto to stick. i have a 5speed tranny but need the swap parts?

 

try to bring rpm at 1750. but it won t hold it. it revs up and down between 1500-2000. why.
the abs light is on

 

Earlier this year I sold a 2000 se 5 speed that I absolutely loved. Anyways it had I think OBK headers and some cat-back system I cant remember the name of. But it sounded like a F-1 car. I am looking for the brand of cat-back it was. I know this is pretty vague but I was hoping someone would know what I am talking about.

 

K, so, two weeks ago, I bought an 01 Maxima. Loved the car, it's pretty anyhow. You've guessed it, I'm a girl. Well, it ran well too. RAN being the past tense. Here's the thing. They put a toggle switch on it because of SOMETHING wrong with the AC. This kept the AC going though. Turns out they ran the AC through with the FANS for some reason, then the wires are ran over to the battery and the AC relay. AND they used freakin' speaker wire!! So, the wires burnt up and I asked my BIL to run REAL wire through it. But, we dont like the idea of any of it, using the toggle switch, etc. About a week ago, for sh*ts and giggles we replaced the temp sensor. The fans will work just fine on their own. So this stuff is not all wired together because of the fans. It's the AC. Today, we took the AC off the fans and ran it by itself on the toggle. We're hoping to find out exactly WHY the AC has to be run this way, can't I just turn the danged thing on? Apparently not. Tried to turn it on, the engine fans did not come on, and I'm told that ONE needs to. Not sure about that info. Either way, trying to run the ac by itself, blew the pressure valve. Not broke, just blew pressure out. My BIL said it was meant to do that, if there is a problem. BUT, WHAT ON EARTH IS MAKING THAT HAPPEN??? Just trying to get to the part where I find out why the ac does not work unless we run it through the battery and a toggle switch and the engine fans to the relay all together. I really wanted to take it apart and find out from the start, what is wrong with the AC?? Any clues? BIL thinks it's coming from inside the car somewhere, not under the hood. He thinks it might be an ac/heater switch, but I can't find that, and he is not sure that is what it's called. All he knows is that he replaced on his explorer, and I sure as heck can't afford what he paid.

Oh, car specs: 2001 Nissan Maxima with 108,000 miles on it. Yes, I'm running premium, doubt the previous owner did. With everything running, significant loss of power, down to 500 at idle. I think it's all that crap running when cuz it's forced to, like the fans, you figure, if I have the AC on, they have to run CONSTANT cuz they are in on the toggle with the ac for whatever reason. Also have ABS light on. We'll get to that, just after this part :-) HELP ME PLEASE?? I appreciate it greatly, Thanks so very much! Pamela

 

I forgot, it's a 01 Nissan Max SE AUTO

 

So, he rewired like I thought he was going to do, and now the inside controls will not come on and he can't find a blown fuse anywhere. He said all he did was swap out the main wire that used to be speaker wire, with the right wiring. But, now I have no way to control the ac even if it is on the stupid toggle switch. What is wrong with my pretty new car? I just graduated from a 92 subaru, to a 94 mazda mini van, to finally something sporty and at least in the right decade. And, I'm wondering, what on earth did I do that for? I need more than AC, but its in the 90s here in Alabama and I need that to work first. Then on to the broken engine mount, the horribly bad struts, the leaking tire, and the abs light I'm gonna go cry again, LOL!

 

Could someone please tell me if a radiator should be well secured in the engine bay? Mines a little loose and I can move it back and forth. Thanks!

 

its supposed to have some play...its held in by rubber bushings at the top and bottom...if you think there is too much play, look at the condition of the bushings

 

i own an 03 maxima se auto. i noticed that the speeometer seems to be off by about 10mph. if im going 30 the speedometer reads 20. any ideas on what this could be? any possible fixes? car is bone stock has stock tires and rims

 

Oh My Goodness! Yesterday, I came home and put her in park and she accelerated up to 3000RPMs and I freaked and shut her off. My BIL drove her around the block, and put her in park, and said she was fine. So, I drove back to my friends house, and it did it again. I had witnesses. I was driving a much longer distance than he did when he tested it. When driving, it gets stuck, if I accelerate up to around 2500 RPMs, then let off the gas, it gets stuck there for a few seconds, drops down to around 1000 then hops back to 1500 or so, without me touching it. The car sounds like crap now too. And, when breaking, it's like I'm fighting the car, like if you drive with one foot on gas and one on break. So far, it WILL stop. Thing is, I have four kids to tow around, and I have to stop in school drop off lines, with kids everywhere. I can't have this. Service Engine light came on last night. Since it came on, it does not rev up to the 3000 RPM point anymore, I guess. I shut it off now in park at around the time it gets to 2000, but it's not getting there as quickly as it was before the light came on. Before the light came on, I mean, it really jumped up there in a hurry! As if I had stuck my foot on the gas, and just went crazy or something.

I drive a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE, Automatic, 108,000 miles on her. Just got her two weeks ago. So many things wrong, I'm sorry I did this to myself. Never mind the other things for now, this one is DANGEROUS and I need help ASAP. Please? Thanks! Pamela

 

I wish I could help you more, but from all of your problems I would say SELL IT ASAP!!!!

 

Since that's not an option, obviously nobody is going to buy a car that acts this way, I was hoping for a way to fix this problem. Then maybe I can get out from under it, but I paid 3500 for it and wont get anywhere near that back, I bet. If I sell it, I have to get enough out of it to buy something else that is broken, LOL! For now, I have to have something to drive, and not crash into anyone

 

Get the codes read for the check engine light. Throttle is controlled by a cable in our year car, so you may want to check that it's not binding up near the throttle body.

 

Thanks so much! I've been reading about the throttle cable, wasn't sure why it would even decelerate though if that were the case. But then, I'm just a girl, and the only experience I have working on anything is checking and adding oil. I've had so many broken cars though that I'm starting to recognize what the problem is just by sound. Unfortunately, this is a new one for me.

 

Well, I never made it to the mechanic or even out of my driveway. When I started the car, it revved up to 2000RPM, dropped down slowly to 1000. So, I went to put it in reverse but the minute I just started to put it in reverse, it accelerated again. Or started to, I can't describe it. So, I put it back in park, never made it to reverse, too scared to try now. I dont want to put it in reverse and end up in the yard across the street. I listed this car for 2500 dollars, which is a thousand dollar loss to me, not including taxes and fees. Someone is willing to sell me a minivan for 2000 and I think that is where I belong, somewhere nice and easy to fix and not have to worry about constant issues. Only problem is, I have to fix this problem before I let this guy test drive the car, or he wont buy it I'm sure. Who would buy a car that accelerates at will? It needs to be running properly at least before I can let someone look at it. I'm so disappointed, I was so happy to get out of minivan hell and have a pretty little sporty car that fit my two kids in it. No way would I drive this death trap again with my kids though, that would be insane. I can't believe after reading all the posts in this forum, that the rest of you are so loyal to this car. But it seems it's just me, because y'all look like you're having a really good time. I've had my maxima for 20 days today. And, I've been terrified of it since the day after I bought it. I'm so sad

 

Hi, I got a manual 01 SE 20th anniversary max and got some idle problems too.

When I bought the car, the previous owner told me there were an 02 sensor that has to be changed and that was making SES light turn on sometimes. So the max has an ses but drives well except for one thing.

When the car is cold and I start it, the idle is revving approximately 1200 rpm but when it's hot it goes down to 600-700 rpm. It's not a big problem but I don't know if it's normal or not.

Also, when I was riding it today, lights in the dash turned on (parking brake, oil change lights) and the stearing locked. It did that for a couple of seconds after revving the car at 4000-4500 for the second, third and fourth gear.

Sorry for the bad english quality, I'm from Quebec.

Thanks for your answers

 

when you start the car, it idles higher to warm up the car...then it drops

 

ok so i am a new member and new owner 00 Maxima GLE .. very excited
soo I would like to get an all in one radio DVD CD NAV.. whats a good one for my GLE?

 

Get a Kraco, the best!

 

i ordered an exhaust for my 2000 se from custom maxima..ive gotten no shipping information...anybody having/or had these problems? or not getting items?

 

i ordered an exhaust for my 2000 se from custom maxima..I've gotten no shipping information...anybody having/or had these problems? or not getting items?

 

As long as maximas are properly maintained, they are very reliable cars. My '99 had 193,000 miles on it when I sold it, and last I heard it had ~ 250,000 and was still going strong. My current '03 had 133,000 on it and it runs flawlessly. The only $$ i have put into it is pretty standard maintenance.

Unfortunately, it sounds like you got one that wasnt taken care of very well. I hope it doesnt turn you off to maximas for good. I hope you have better luck with your next car......

 

check out the electronics section...lots of info in there

two posts?

how long has it been? have you called them?

you should have done research on here first... custom maxima has always had poor customer service

 

Your English is just fine, and better than some that write here who were born speaking it.

If you have a manual transmission maxima, the oil, brake, and check engine light on at the same time means :

a) You have a power problem. Usually brake and battery come on together when the alternator goes, but sometimes other lights flicker.
b) the engine has cut out on you, as in stopped running while you're driving, which, if you have a manual transmission, is possibly what's happening, and it explains the power steering loss. Because your car is still moving, it will restart once whatever is causing the outage has finished re-setting itself.
c) you have an issue with the power steering or power steering belt - on the 3.0L it's dedicated to just the power steering pump, so something else might cause the other indicator lights to turn on.

You need to pull the SES codes and track down what has been happening. Fix the obvious, then move on to the intermittent problems.

There are some sensors that cause typical ECUs to become confused. On the Maxima, it's the MAF (mass airflow sensor). Check the connection, clean it per the instructions posted on this web site, and see if the problem diminishes or disappears.

Let us know how it works out!

 

Heartbreaking. It sounds like some ten-thumbed monkeys worked on the car before you bought it, and subjected it to classic redneck engineering. Re-implementing their workarounds is a recipe for more tears down the road.

If you have not sold it yet, you might still be able to save the car. There are no guarantees, but if you look at this as a project, driving the car later will be much more rewarding.

For one, disconnect the AC for now, and fix everything else (or at least diagnose it). Unhook the speaker cable turned power cable, pull the AC fuses (for all you know they blew and they decided to wire around it).

Now let's look at your idle/revving problem.

Get your BIL or someone competent (and not someone who only fixes 70's MOPAR stuff) to work through the systems. Clean the MAF per the instruction on this site. Make sure the monkeys didn't get to the wiring. Drop by an Autozone or other parts shop and rent a OBDII reader, the computers in the car will probably have a story to tell about what sensor isn't happy. The codes are listed on this site. One of my prior posts has links to the field service manual for your car, which you should download.

You can help whomever is helping you by calling local junkyards to see if they have the same model year of car there for you to perhaps salvage parts from.

Once you have the codes, I'll bet that some sort of position sensor will have failed. Re-seat the connection, and see if the code clears. If not. get the replacement from the junkyard, and have whoever will replace it in your car take it out per the instruction in the FSM. Why? Because this will be the "practice car." Oh, and remember to only work on ECU sensors when the battery is disconnected.

Repeat as required. You'll probably only have to to that once or twice. Have the mechanic be on the lookout for more redneck "repairs" while doing this, and replace connectors from the car in the junkyard as needed.

Once you get to this point, PM me, post here, and either I or someone else will get your AC working. There is a stereo replacement video for Maxima on Youtube that shows how the center console comes apart, and maybe picking up the AC control unit (that circuit board with the digital display and stuff) from the practice car would be wise.

 

Go to http://www.crutchfield.com/app/car/c...r%2fMyCar.aspx , select your car, and it'll tell you everything that will fit, what adapters are needed, and so on. There are videos on Youtube on how to remove the stereo that are quite complete once you get everything.

 

So I think I might have screwed up. I have an 01 which originally had the Bose 1CD player in it. I installed the Bose 6CD player. The steering wheel controls don't work with it, so I bought what I thought was the correct one, but that doesn't work at all (pressing the Mode button makes the horn honk, haha). I took both modules apart and they're completely different. Can anyone help me out here?

 

So I;m new here and new to the Maxima world. I've got a 2k2 with 121,500 miles on it and I absolutely love it. At the moment it's a work in progress with little things here and there. However, there is one thing I can't seem to find a solution to.

I have searched this website and others as well as looked over diagrams and still can't seem to find the exact part. On my center armrest, it has the two trays, the top, shallow one, and the lower, deep one. To access the top shallow one, the armrest lifts up, however, when I bought the car, the locking mechanism that holds the armrest secure when down was broken off and gone.

I am looking to replace this part, don't have any pictures, sorry. It's the black plastic piece that the actual leather armrest attaches to, it lifts up when you open the console to access the shallow tray, if that is of any help.

Thanks

 

Hi I just got an 01 maxima gle and it is in beautiful running condition, not even 40K on it! The only thing it needs is a new suspension. So I ordered some tokico HP w/ eibach pros and was wondering whether I needed a camber kit? The tutorials I came across have not mentioned anything of it but a buddy of mine said you would need it if there is to negative a camber. I understand the concept but has anyone used it? I am sure someone has a similar set up to inform me about this.

 

thanks SoonerFan and homeclaus..
ok so would a stillen intake work with the Evo II Exhaust for 00 Max.. or is there better intakes and exhaust ??
and is there such thing as bulbs for the guage or do i replace the whole guage ?(for color)