hey i got a question, my 2k2 maxima, the rear windows, it doesnt go all the way down for some reason when i hold the button, is there like a stopper in there or something? thanks

 

Ended up changing out the MAF sensor as the dealership recommended. It is definitely behaving different now. I left the negative terminal off for a couple of hours while I ate dinner and ran to get the part and replaced it. I did this in hopes that the ECU would "reprogram" itself and I would be off racing before the late news came on. No such luck.

It would fire up and then die the first few times that I started it. I had to give it some gas to keep it going. After that it seemed to settle down and now will stay running.

It idles around 1000 RPM and won't go above 2200 RPM when I give it gas.

I tried the Idle Air Volume Learning from this thread. It didn't seem to do anything.

Took the car for a test drive and I can't get above 2200 RPM. I was a little confused if I needed to reprogram the ECU. Some say it is not necessary, but I need to do semething as I can't get her out on the highway at 2200 RPM.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

Im almost positive you have to do an ecu reset because it is necessary when you clean it.

 

I don't think the resetting applies to 2000-2001. I have cleaned mine twice and have not had the need to reset the ECU.

 

Your car seems to be exhibiting the limp mode from a bad MAF, but if it is new, then either the ECU needs to be reset or an installation problem (is the connection to the MAF sensor on tight?) or a bad NEW MAF (yes it can happen).

Check the MAF connection and reset the ECU by removing both the positive and negative terminal connections on the battery. To ensure any residual energy is removed pump the brakes a few times. I would let it sit for a few hours before reconnecting the battery connections.

 

Hey everyone,

even though my account is from 2004, and I bought my beloved 00 Max SE in 2002, I think I missed some important security changes around here.

I have to put up a WTB Ad to try and find some shocks/struts and headlights for my baby, but apparently I need more posts or some kind of security access?

If someone could point me in the right direction on how ot make these posts it would be a great help!

Thanks!

 

I just bought a 02 Maxima. The problem is there is an oil leak at the back of the oil pan. I took the oil pan off and found the problem. The rear pan bolt is striped out. Is there any way to fix this? I believe these are aluminum blocks. Thanks for the help!

 

The upper or lower pan?

If the lower, then just get an M6x1 Helicoil set. If for the upper, you'll need a M8x1.25 set.

This is assuming you've got the necessary tools to install Helicoils (or Timeserts, or any other thread repair kit).

 

It is the lower pan. I was considering using a Helicoil but was not sure if they would work well with the aluminum block. The other problem was the correct size (which you gave me). I will give it a shot this weekend. Thanks for the help!

 

Alright so I've been searching the .org for awhile, but this is my first post. I'm having a problem with my 2000 Maxima SE. A few days ago I started the car and noticed the belt was making some squeeking / rattling noises, I left it alone for the time being thinking it would go away but it didn't. So I went to my local autozone and they reccomended some belt dressing to solve this problem, I took their advice and sprayed it on the belts, but afterwards the noise seemed even worse.

Well the next day I went out and took a closer look at the belts to discover that my Serpentine belt had actually split into three seperate belts, so I immediately took it in to get replaced. I had it replaced and the mechanic said it's still making a bit of noise but is probably related to some gunk on the pulleys and would go away eventually. Well I drove it around that day and the noise got worse, you can clearly hear this rattling / growling noise from the belt from outside the vehicle and even more so inside the vehicle. The noise is most noticeable when accelerating through low RPMs and when doing so there is a slight vibration in the gear shifter that follows the noise.

I took a flashlight and looked at the pulleys and noticed there were many pieces of rubber stuck in the grooves of the pulley from the previous belt that had obviously shredded and were stuck wedged in there, I was able to remove some but I assume there are more stuck in there. Could this be the cause of the noise and vibration? or maybe it's a bearing going out? I honestly have no idea but it is extremely frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The leftover rubber bits in the pulley grooves can cause the noise issue you are having. I would take it back to the shop that replaced the belt and have them remove the belt and clean out the pulleys. They did a half-as* job on their part, especially knowing there was leftover belt pieces in the pulleys.

Get that done first and see if the noise is still around after the cleaning. If it is, then you likely have a bearing going out, but usually that makes a noise consistent with the RPM of the engine.

 

Hello. I have been searching the threads and found a similar question to mine but it never really had an answer. I have a 2001 maxima. When I am driving sometimes both my traction control off light will come on as well as my slip light. Yesterday though, after both lights came on, I had to break suddenly. My car started to shake and almost shut down completely. I pulled to side street and turned off my car and started it again. It started to shake again and had issues accelerating. I got it home without any more issues. What could be causing both symptoms, lights coming on and the car almost dying after braking? Thanks!

 

hey um new to this site just registerd, now i am a current owner of a 2001 nissan se 20th anniversary maxima i jus bought with onli 57k now i current ran into a problem with my catalytic converter now i have no idea if i have 1 or more now ineed some info plz. and i would like to also try and figure out what are some major problems i will run into in the near future with my maxima plz any info would be very much apprecitated thanks in advance names rick. and its good to be on this site. herd nothing but good about it

 

What problem did you have? Any check engine codes? You have one cat and two precats.

 

Is there any write ups on how to change the transmission filter on an 01 maxima?

 

Did the battery light come on as well? Almost sounds like your alternator, but depends on when the car started to shake and shudder. Was it shaking and shuddering when you applied the brakes, or before/after applying the brakes?

 

If it is all stock, yes. But there is a chance someone could have removed one of your pre-cats with an aftermarket y-pipe. Only way to find out is to get under the car and look for them. The catalytic converters look like a larger diameter section of the exhaust with a heat shield over it.

I am also curious what indicates you have a problem with the catalytic converter.

 

There was on motorvate.ca at one points, but I don't see it. You might want to double-check that site.

It is pretty straight-forward though once you drain, and remove the transmission pan. You can see the filter screen after you remove the pan. It really doesn't need to be replaced unless it is damaged. You can clean it up with brake cleaner or another solvent. Just make sure you let it fully dry before you put it back on and do not leave any lint on the filter screen from the rags you used to clean it. When removing the filter screen only remove the bolts you need to in order to get the screen off, don't remove any other bolts.

When you remove the pan make sure you clean up the pan and the magnets as well.

 

hi,

I am new to the forum and have a question. I have a 2000 Maxima SE MT, trying to change the console piece around the gear shift. I found one on a 2002 close by in a yard, but that's a AT. Will that fit? its very reasonable priced. So, don't want to miss it if it fits.

One thing that I noticed, the opening on the AT is longer by an inch. Can I use a bigger boot cover to account for the larger opening?

Thanks a lot in advance for all your advice.

 

hey guyz, i have a 03 maxima SE platinum edition. my mechanic told me to replace my struts and he told me that it will cost me $1200 to replace both front and back. am i being ripped off? any suggestion will be deeply appreciated...thanx

 

That is including all the parts, etc? Seems reasonable if so. Do the work yourself and save some money.

 

yes it includes all the parts, the mechanic told me the labor is 1.5 hrs on each side. so they are charging me around $600 for the labor and $600 for the parts.
I cant do it myself since i live in a dorm..lol

 

Dude, you'd be amazed what type of work you can do to your car in a dorm parking lot!

 

haha, ur right man, hopefully in near future i plan on having my own garage in my house but for now i let other people do it for me. So u think $600 is fair labor charge? or should i call up other places? my mechanic seems like a very honest guy... btw i appreciate ur feedback...thanx again!

 

I like the mall parking lot in my area, tend to even have some people help you out when they are on the bike path and want a break from their run.

 

$600? That is ridiculous.

any chance you are dorming on long island?

I can get that done for you where I work for $40 per side, which is 160 total plus parts.

 

yes i am located in long island, do you mind telling me where u work? are u a mechanic?

 

I work part time at sears automotive in lake grove NY. I'm not a mechanic myself, but the guy who I would have work on your car is an Ase-certified technician at Smithtown Nissan. I'm a student myself, so I know how it is trying to save money. Let me know if your interested.

 

wow that is crazy, im actually very close to smithtown nissan, infact my brother had some work done on his car at smithtown nissan..lol.. will the work be performed at the smithtown location or will it be at a private property? i appreciate the fact that u realize how tough it is for a college student..lol

 

damn mang, it's a small world.

The work can be done in the sears automotive center right by the smith haven mall, the guy I mentioned works there with me as a second job.

Normally we don't accept customer parts, but I can ask my manager for a favor, and I doubt it will be a problem.

or if you want we carry monroe sensatracs as well. If I was you I would get either tokico blues, or illuminas off of ebay and let me know when you can drop by to have them installed

 

sounds good, what else should i buy besides the struts. i.e. strut mounts, boots..etc

 

Depends on how your hardware is looking under there. I would say at least go with a pair of new front strut mounts, and possibly dust boots. Pm me when you want to set up a day to have it done.

 

Thank You, i will contact you as soon as i get the parts delivered.

 

lol, no problem.

 

I found out what's causing the shifting issue: the horizontal shaft in the shift rod that moves up and down with the thumb lever is sticking in the bottom position. For instance, press thumb lever, shift to D and the pin gets stuck in the down position. This allows you to bump the shift into reverse without pressing the thumb lever again. Also keeps the key in the ignition when you park as the pin comes up and actuates some plastic levers and a mechanical piece running to the ignition.

Looks like there is white lithium grease surround the pin. I sprayed with WD40 to see if things would loosen up...nope.

Any ideas?

I keep seeing DaveB's name. I need new coils anyway, maybe he'd have an idea on this one.

 

The battery light did not come on. The car started to shake and shutter after I applied the brakes.

 

Ok so im a man of my research and never ask for advice but i need help on this one. So if you are educated in these problems can you PM ME PLEASE.

ok so I currently have 2 problems on my 2000 GLE auto.

1) my air bag light is on (the one at the top of the cluster with the sig. ind.) it flashes all the time and wont go out. When I got the car 4-5 weeks ago the guy got into a little accedent and tore the rear passenger wheel off and the air bag did not deploy.

2) My traction control is kicking in, to the point its not driveable unless you turn it off. At even 1/8th-ish throttle it cuts in and the slip indicator starts to flash.

I really hope you can help me guys, need this figured out asap!
P.S.(im also sorry if it was somewhere obvious and i didn't see)

Huge thanks!
-Sheldon

 

Try and do a reset:

• Turn the ignition key on for seven seconds (the length of time the airbag light stays solidly on).
• Turn the ignition off within 1 second.
• Wait at least three seconds to turn ignition back on.
• Repeat these steps two more times (three total).

The system will start a series of airbag light flashes to indicate what the problem is and most likely this will be as far as you'll get with an FSM, but without a Consult. IF the light was brough up by a glitch, as it did with mine, this may clear the light.

Sounds like they didn't replace the ABS sensor for that rear tire when he got into a accident.

 

yes it had a code. i dont remmeber what it was but i went to auto zone n got it checkd came out my cat was no good. then went to pep-boys n they gave me a write up of my code, n they also said it was my cat bank 1 and 2 were bad, and i also brought it to my mechanic and he also said my cat was no good so 3 ppl checkd it out and they said the same thing, now i brought it back to the dealership and they so calld told me they changed it n its all good now i checkd if they did and it just looks like they changed one sensor and calld it a day. but wat i wanna noe is at what timne or milage will i be running into problems with my 02 max. it has 57k now or what are my main problems i shuld consider to get chedk out bfor they get messd up? plz some 1 with any info plz lmk thanks.

 

and can u like specificly tell me where are the precats located? and my main cat is also located? thanks for the help...