yea. thanks. i found those fuses and relays for the sunroof. they looked fine. ill recheck them tho. didnt know if there were any more hidden ones somewhere???
thanks

 

bump ...

 

Just out of curiosity, are you trying to match the size of the oil cooler O-ring with another one intended for a different application?
In the event that you intent to purchase the right O-ring, this is the part# (taken from this thread): B1304-43U00.

 

Thanks, Nelsito65

I am experiencing a mild oil leak also. The mechanic said the gasket (o-ring) inside the cooler might need change to stop the leak. To save some bucks, I am looking for aftermarket o-rings. It seems the OEM one with B1304-43U00 does not cost a whole lot either. I will buy the OEM one instead.

Thanks!

 

I ran OBD and i came out with the VSS replacement code. I've had this for a few months now, but my main question is that can this problem cause my car to just not start out of no where??

i went to the park today everything was fine, got back in to drive but the car wouldn't start. full battery power, but when i turn the ignition i don't even hear a starter click. is there some link between the VSS problem and having causing my car to not start?

 

engine light turned about a week ago, i checked the code and got p0174 "system too lean, bank 2"...i did some googling and it seems as if it was a MAF sensor problem and i did notice some problems with the RPM before as well.

Everytime i turned on ignition it used to start and idle at around 2000 RPM (kind of high?) and also, it was very hard to get it past 4500 RPM on the highway. Anyways, I bought a new OEM MAF sensor off ebay and installed it, car turned on fine, started of at 2000rpm but dipped to about 1200 pretty quickly.

So I drove around for a bit everything seemed fine. I parked the car, for about 30 min, when i went back, the car turned on and the RPM instantly dipped to 0 while parked; tried again and this time it kept till 600RPM or so, i backed out and noticed that again the RPM was a bit low and felt i had to give more gas than usual to back up. I drove some more and when at a red light, the RPM dropped to 0 and the car would not turn on again. Everytime i tried, it would instantly dip to 0. I was stuck there for about 5 minutes then i came up with an idea that worked. I turned the ingnition on and stepped on the gas while parked to keep the rpm high, put it on drive while the rpm was dropping and then some more gas to keep it going.

It seemed as if everytime I didn't give gas, the RPM would dip much too low. anyone want to diagnose this? new MAF at fault or something else? Im gunna put the old MAF sensor back tomorrow to see if problem persists, just checking if anyone has had similar problems and can give me hints on quick fix.

 

IACV maybe. You think 2000 rpm idle is normal? NOT. Unplug the MAF and see how she idles.

 

Check for power at your starter when you go to start it. You should have voltage. If there is voltage, you need to replace your starter. If no voltage, then we have to troubleshoot further into your ignition system.

 

bingo he needs a new one or maybe try cleaning it

 

See that blue, green, and purple metal above the block? I swear it has not always been that color, and that it just changed recently. Took it to Autozone and they couldn't tell me what could cause it--manager told me to call him if I ever found out.

What causes this? Is it normal? Is it okay?

 

got a question what is needed to put a 3.5 in a 2000 max i tried looking but nada

 

One of the fuel rails, and they tend to discolor like that. No problem.

Look harder. There are many different ways to do it, each way is different.

 

Did anyone had this problem before? I have a 03 Maxima SE, the Cd players works, but the speakers work only on the right side, if you play with the fading and the balance and move it all to the left side, no sound comes out, only from the right speakers. Now if you put the radio mode, on the other hand, all the speakers work. It's only in CD mode than the left speakers don't work.

 

Shiny pipes and brackets there. That discoloration looks like what happens to some new pipes when they are subjected to very high temperatures. Are they fairly new?

 

I have a 2001 Maxima I have been fighting to get rid of p0171 (Bank 1 too lean) code. Any help is appreciated.

After spending a lot of time reading these forums I replaced the MAF and reprogrammed the ECM, which didn’t help. Both of the O2’s on bank 1 have been replaced. The scanner once showed a pending P0134 (B1S1 bad) but it disappeared, perhaps the new sensor already went bad (hesitant to invest another $100 in a second one). Can’t find any intake leaks and have a new PCV valve with a clean hose.

I get the following freeze frame from the scanner, I driven it a lot but the O2, Cat and EVAP monitors don’t show ready:

Fuel Trim Status
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : 0.00 %
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) : 14.06 %
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : -3.13 %
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) : 3.91 %
Fuel System Status
Fuel System 1 Status : Open loop due to detected system fault.
Fuel System 2 Status : Closed Loop

I’ve searched and searched but am confused about the open loop system fault. Does this mean specifically that one of the new o2’s isn’t working or just that there is something in bank 1 (hidden vacuum leak, etc) not right?

Any wisdom is appreciated. Thanks.

 

thanks for your help

 

Bose? Look in the how to stickies. There is a fix,\.

 

Hello Maxima Lovers...I am interested on putting HID lights to my 5gen Maxima SE, but unfortunately when we tried to invent with two Matsu****a ballast (they were from another car) and made all the pertinent connections the light didn't show up!! And me and my Brother were asking ourselves...Why there is no light??...Everything was set up well, we test the voltage, all the connections were good...But Why light didn't show up?? Can someone help us to know what happen here?? This car have a photo sensor that when the light switch is put on "AUTO" the lights turns on when the sensor see no light...Can this be associated with no light coming from the bulb???? Please someone help I want my car looking good with the HID...BTW the fog light were working well with the installation and also we test the bulbs outside and they light up, they only problem were in the headlamps!!

 

No, not new at all, and that's why I'm worried. They get very hot, which is also troublesome. Why should fuel rails be getting hot?

I have been having engine problems lately, but the car is not throwing codes or a CEL, so I'm kinda lost as to what's going wrong. Help?

 

...because they're mounted to an engine, which tends to be slightly higher than ambient temp?

Again, it's normal.

'Engine problems' is an extremely ambiguous statement. With that kind of detail, no one here can be of any assistance...

 

Quick question, hope this is the right place to post. In going through the Left Speaker Cutout fix for my 5th Gen Maxima, I am also very interested in adding an auxiliary input for an Ipod. There are pictures of how someone did this near the bottom of this page:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...out-fix-4.html

But I'm confused on the wiring aspect and also if there are other steps involved (i.e. removing any connections,...) I did see this posting:

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...ck-bose-6.html

However, it seems very complicated compared to the other modification. If anyone has a pointer (link to where this has been discussed) or info regarding the wiring in those pictures, I would appreciate it a ton. Thanks in advance.

 

Greetings, all! Yesterday my 2002 SE (auto) blew its first O2 sensor, Sensor 1 at Bank 2 (upstream, passenger side, light blue, etc). Rather than throw money at my local dealership, I have all four sensors on order.

This morning, driving around the turn to my house at about 10 mph, low rpm, the engine cut completely. I had the SES, battery and oil light on, and no power steering at all. I even had trouble getting the shift back into park, or even neutral. I rechecked the car with my code reader, and got the same P0152 code it gave yesterday. I hope that it's just the car's system telling me to replace the sensor already, but I'm wondering if there's something else I'm missing. It shouldn't be the MAF- I replaced that a couple months ago (and yes, I know I should have done the O2 sensors then...)

Many thanks for your help!

 

Welcome. On 00-01 Max's, you need to reverse the polarity of the wires for the ballasts. So, the + connection plugging into the ballast needs to be on the - side.

 

Thanks for the quick response and help!!

BTW they are original 350z ballasts and i am afraid if i reverse polarity i will fry my ballast and there will be no HID for me or will i have to buy a universal HID kit ?

 

My MAF went out a few months back. It's an '02 SE. Bought the older MAF from DaveB to save some money. Runs great, but my mileage has dropped a good bit. I drive mixed city/highway and was geting 26mpg average. Now I am at 22mpg average. This is from calculating at the pump, not using the dash display(never accurate-it usually shows 29mpg). i guess it's possible the MAF is calibrated differently since a paper came with it saying to have the ECU flashed. But I figured that was for the correct application('00-'01). Do I need to do anything to get my mileage back up? Honestly, I drive conservatively. On the occassion I drive to enjoy the 6spd(woohoo!), I take that into consideration when checking mpg. Thanks guys!

 

Sorry, I fired that off from work in a hurry. I'm sure it wasn't very helpful. Pmohr, thanks for your patience with those of us who are less than omniscient.

About once a week, when I start my car in the morning, it sputters and shuts down. That's the first problem. What do I need to check? What else do you need to know in order to help?

 

anyone? The other day, the left speakers started working when playing a CD right after hitting a bump, so it looks like a bad connection somewhere, any tips on where the conenctor of the left audio system is?

 

Two posts on this page address your issue:
http://forums.maxima.org/7251179-post9457.html
http://forums.maxima.org/7252577-post9461.html

Please read those.

 

You should probably do the idle relearn procedure now that you have a new MAF... a quick search should give you instructions for that one

 

Was on the forum a few weeks ago and came across a writeup someone had started about upgrading his speakers in his Maxima. He used 8" speakers in the front doors I believe with mdf adapters. I have been trying to find it again but have not had luck. Could somebody please point me in the right direction?

 

If the 'search' function isn't helping you, make sure you select 'relevency' as how your search hits will be sorted. Maybe a stupid suggestion, but that confused me when I was new to the org.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...ere-doors.html

 

Thanks for the search 'relevency' tip. Still no luck yet. I keep trying different keywords but I still have not found that writeup. No big deal, I just wanted to go back to the writeup for tips on installing 8" speakers in my doors. I have plenty of experience with car audio install so Im not too worried but just wanted to get info on the specific application.

 

ummmmmm.....look above your post.

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...ere-doors.html

^ Click

 

Sorry didnt catch your first link, I just found the thread I had seen weeks ago, PHXGold wrote it up, he has 8's in his doors as well!

 

i have a 2000 maxima se and wanted to know if i could hook a amp up to the stock head unit.. i have a bose.. please let me kno

 

Read the stickies in the audio section. They have this and several topics covered there.

 

i didnt get the manual when i bought the car any suggestions?

 

Haha, no man. Stickies over here:
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-electronics-21/

Lots of good info there. Just search through it and you'll get your answer.

 

The A/C will blow harder when you hit the gas,(right?), every other car I had does this.