5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
02-24-2011, 03:13 PM
Been away from the forum for awhile, but I'd still consider myself a newb...
I have a 2002 GLE with a little under 80k miles on it and I'm having an issue that I think is related to either the MAF, the O2 sensors, or the IACV.
About two weeks ago my SES light came on and I had a mechanic buddy pull the codes. He hooked up his code reader but it said there were no diagnostic trouble codes to report. Sort of odd, so he reset the ECM to see if the light would return and since then the light has remained off. Just a few days ago I turned my car on and the engine was chugging quite a bit and was pretty shaky. The closest thing I can think of that would be similar is the feeling you get when you have bad motor mounts. I turned the car off, waited a few minutes, and then turned it back on and it was fine. No shakiness or chugging.
It's happened a few times since then but always goes away. I don't think there's an issue with the mounts since the problem is intermittent, but since the SES light is still off and there's no diagnostic codes I'm not sure how to proceed in the trouble shooting. One thing I have noticed is that my gas mileage has gone down quite a bit and quite sharply too. As in one day my gas mileage was normal and then the next day it was bad. No gradual degradation. This is why I think it's MAF or O2 sensor related.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have a 2002 GLE with a little under 80k miles on it and I'm having an issue that I think is related to either the MAF, the O2 sensors, or the IACV.
About two weeks ago my SES light came on and I had a mechanic buddy pull the codes. He hooked up his code reader but it said there were no diagnostic trouble codes to report. Sort of odd, so he reset the ECM to see if the light would return and since then the light has remained off. Just a few days ago I turned my car on and the engine was chugging quite a bit and was pretty shaky. The closest thing I can think of that would be similar is the feeling you get when you have bad motor mounts. I turned the car off, waited a few minutes, and then turned it back on and it was fine. No shakiness or chugging.
It's happened a few times since then but always goes away. I don't think there's an issue with the mounts since the problem is intermittent, but since the SES light is still off and there's no diagnostic codes I'm not sure how to proceed in the trouble shooting. One thing I have noticed is that my gas mileage has gone down quite a bit and quite sharply too. As in one day my gas mileage was normal and then the next day it was bad. No gradual degradation. This is why I think it's MAF or O2 sensor related.
Anyone have any ideas?
02-24-2011, 04:50 PM
Sims was actually first on Food's list...but I don't know that there was necessarily any priority to the list?
I would prefer the quick and cheap route to buy some time. I obviously don't want to impair the car longer term just in case. But from what I heard from a mechanic prior to Food is that only mileage is impacted. That being said, Food makes sense to me in that the main cat would potentially get messed up if the pre-cat is bad.
I would prefer the quick and cheap route to buy some time. I obviously don't want to impair the car longer term just in case. But from what I heard from a mechanic prior to Food is that only mileage is impacted. That being said, Food makes sense to me in that the main cat would potentially get messed up if the pre-cat is bad.
Best bet is to change your bank 2 O2 sensor at the front pre-cat and see if that takes care of it. If not, then you'll need to replace your front pre-cat.
02-24-2011, 04:53 PM
02-24-2011, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 19
PO505 confused????
I have the po505 code on the 2000 Max(standard tranny) I am working on. I see most tend to have stalling, no start, high idle or high idle with surging issues with the po505 code which tends to lead back to IAC. My issue is the motor idles at 1500rpms and then tends to fluctuate up and down from 1500-1800rpms. Could my problem still be the IAC or could it be something else?
02-24-2011, 06:49 PM
02-24-2011, 06:50 PM
I have the po505 code on the 2000 Max(standard tranny) I am working on. I see most tend to have stalling, no start, high idle or high idle with surging issues with the po505 code which tends to lead back to IAC. My issue is the motor idles at 1500rpms and then tends to fluctuate up and down from 1500-1800rpms. Could my problem still be the IAC or could it be something else?
02-24-2011, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 4
Hey all. I'm new here and generally a newb with cars. I've got a ton of questions after inheriting a black 2000 Maxima SE manual transmission from my brother. He didn't take care of it at all, so now it's time for a cleanup. I've taken care of the interior in terms of just cleaning, but the exterior is a bit tougher since it's got lots of scratches and hazed up headlamp and foglamp housings and rust near the tires. I've also got the ABS light on for some reason (my mechanic said the ABS seems to work but only Nissan can properly diagnose, which will cost me ~$105). Whenever I go over bumps, the back also seems to rumble quite loudly (completely unintentional; I live in NYC so practically unavoidable). So any advice you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated it.
02-25-2011, 05:05 AM
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Posts: 9
So i am receiving a P0430 code, and a rough idle. Out of all the posts on here theres not really a connection with the two. The pre owner replaced the o2s about a year ago so I am thinking that its a bad precat. Since I live in arizona and can stash the o2 sim pretty good and all I have is to be scanned for emissions this seems like the better route. I had this issue one with a grand prix and it turned out to be a clogged cat. Do the precats on these vehicles break and run down the exhaust for do they just go bad and if they do would it give me this rough idle.
02-25-2011, 08:49 AM
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02-25-2011, 08:52 AM
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Best Tires?
Howdy!
I've had a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE since 2006. It has all options exept GPS. I live in Iowa and with the cold winters/hot summers here the tires take a beating. The last set I bought (BF Goodrich G Force 225/50R17) lasted a mere 34,000 miles. What would be a good all season/winter tire...any manaufacturer?
Thank you!
-Tony
I've had a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE since 2006. It has all options exept GPS. I live in Iowa and with the cold winters/hot summers here the tires take a beating. The last set I bought (BF Goodrich G Force 225/50R17) lasted a mere 34,000 miles. What would be a good all season/winter tire...any manaufacturer?
Thank you!
-Tony
02-25-2011, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 19
So i am receiving a P0430 code, and a rough idle. Out of all the posts on here theres not really a connection with the two. The pre owner replaced the o2s about a year ago so I am thinking that its a bad precat. Since I live in arizona and can stash the o2 sim pretty good and all I have is to be scanned for emissions this seems like the better route. I had this issue one with a grand prix and it turned out to be a clogged cat. Do the precats on these vehicles break and run down the exhaust for do they just go bad and if they do would it give me this rough idle.
02-25-2011, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 19
IAC issue update
I tested the IAC according to the chiltons book which says the ohms range should be around 30 at around 70 degrees between 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, 5-6 pins. The temp outside was only about 60 degrees, I got a reading of 24 on the 1-2 and 2-3 pins and the meter pegged out on 4-5 and 5-6 pins
.
Do you think the cooler outside temps would make that big a difference in the readings, or is the IACV bad???
.Do you think the cooler outside temps would make that big a difference in the readings, or is the IACV bad???
02-25-2011, 09:03 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 19
So i am receiving a P0430 code, and a rough idle. Out of all the posts on here theres not really a connection with the two. The pre owner replaced the o2s about a year ago so I am thinking that its a bad precat. Since I live in arizona and can stash the o2 sim pretty good and all I have is to be scanned for emissions this seems like the better route. I had this issue one with a grand prix and it turned out to be a clogged cat. Do the precats on these vehicles break and run down the exhaust for do they just go bad and if they do would it give me this rough idle.
forgot to add that when I pulled the plugs the gap wasn't even close to the 44 I was told they should be, the gauge I had went up to 90 and they still had plenty of gap
02-25-2011, 09:46 AM
If you need a service manual (FSM) download one from here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
02-25-2011, 10:16 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: obx NC
Posts: 92
I have a po430code and was told that it was my cats. Prier to this code i had a po400 and a po158 code. The o2 senser was replaced(for the po158 code) and the egr was replaced(for the po400 code) Now I still got the po400code and the po430 code???? Now i did have a code a few months ago that my coils were bad and bought cheap coils and new plugs and been haveing the SES light some on and off spuraticly(sp?) since. That when I got the 400 and 158 code and now the new po430. I just hope my cats are not bad but they may be. What do you all think?
02-25-2011, 01:11 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 274
I assume coil packs and ignition coils are the same thing? And did you replace it yourself? Was it difficult to do?
02-25-2011, 01:31 PM
No I didn't do it myself because the SES light was on and the only error codes were for a "general engine misfire" and O2 sensor. So I don't know how difficult it is, but from pictures it doesn't look too bad. The problem is finding out which coil is bad because there's 1 for each cylinder. Plus, I was told (so don't take this as gospel) that there's 2 types for the front and rear banks. The fronts are less expensive than the rears and easier to replace. Mine was a front coil so I lucked out. Depending on the mileage on the car it might be a good idea to replace the spark plugs too.
02-25-2011, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 19
the big gap probably caused the engine to be running rich and pushing way too much unburned gas through the cat. It could have plugged up the precat as they do not last forever. To quote the FSM, "three way catalyst does not have enough oxygen storage capacity." But since you just re-gapped the spark plugs, wait a day or two and get the SES light reset and see what the situation is.
If you need a service manual (FSM) download one from here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
If you need a service manual (FSM) download one from here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
That is what I planned on doing, after putting in the new plugs, new coil, new IACV the car runs great. I did the idle relearn and it idles great, the throttle response is also good.
02-26-2011, 07:41 PM
i have a couple of questions about my 2000 se. I have a set of tein H-tech but have not installed them and want to know if they will drop the car too low to be able to put 18 inch wheels on it, also i got the evo 2 exhaust but don't really like it and i was wondering if there is another muffler available for my maxima
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
02-27-2011, 12:13 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
Replaced the front plugs today. They were some really old ngk iridiums, but the gap was around 39 to 40. switched them out since i already bought a set. Still a little rough. Will have to see tomorrow morning started raining and didnt feel like doing anything after I did an oil change also, btw was really ez on these cars. I dont think its a miss, unless this is completely different then other cars ive had missed from. When im cruising on the freeway, and when i punch it theres no hesitation or anything its just when im at idle and in gear. Also in the morning as soon as i start it up if i put it in drive it wants to die and will if i dont put it in park.
02-27-2011, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
I got a few CEL's related to my camshaft position sensor which I Google'd around and found it might be due to low/dirty oil. When it happened I would change the oil (it was happening every 3000 or so miles, the oil was always low but I never saw any on the ground.. but that isn't what this post is about).
Eventually I had to get my emissions inspection and apparently I had cleared the codes too recently. The CEL came back on and the oil wasn't low so I took it in.
It cost $750 at my shop. The position sensor looked to be marked up by 3x, which isn't entirely unexpected but they also replaced the "Camshaft timing solenoid", a $227 part and $110 in labor. Part number was DAT23796EA20A.
When I got home I Googled around and couldn't find anything about this part. I'm hoping they didn't just completely screw me.
Does this seem reasonable? Does this part exist, and should it have been replaced with the sensor?
Eventually I had to get my emissions inspection and apparently I had cleared the codes too recently. The CEL came back on and the oil wasn't low so I took it in.
It cost $750 at my shop. The position sensor looked to be marked up by 3x, which isn't entirely unexpected but they also replaced the "Camshaft timing solenoid", a $227 part and $110 in labor. Part number was DAT23796EA20A.
When I got home I Googled around and couldn't find anything about this part. I'm hoping they didn't just completely screw me.
Does this seem reasonable? Does this part exist, and should it have been replaced with the sensor?
02-27-2011, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
keyless entry
Credit to SEmy2K2go & phenryiv1:
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
____________________________________________
5th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=36867
Modification and other HOW-Tos (tells you how to do common things done to 5th Gens):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=33563
ECU Fault codes or Check Engine light diagnostics (5th Gen):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481
THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
____________________________________________
5th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=36867
Modification and other HOW-Tos (tells you how to do common things done to 5th Gens):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=33563
ECU Fault codes or Check Engine light diagnostics (5th Gen):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481
THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
02-27-2011, 02:51 PM
i have a couple of questions about my 2000 se. I have a set of tein H-tech but have not installed them and want to know if they will drop the car too low to be able to put 18 inch wheels on it, also i got the evo 2 exhaust but don't really like it and i was wondering if there is another muffler available for my maxima
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
02-27-2011, 06:16 PM
02-27-2011, 06:38 PM
thanks for the help guys now to get the wheels. last time i forgot to ask which struts do you guys prefer, i bought some tokiko blues at the same time that i bought the springs but decided to install them on the stock springs and about a month later i had to replace two of struts. thanks
02-27-2011, 07:30 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
Replaced the front plugs today. They were some really old ngk iridiums, but the gap was around 39 to 40. switched them out since i already bought a set. Still a little rough. Will have to see tomorrow morning started raining and didnt feel like doing anything after I did an oil change also, btw was really ez on these cars. I dont think its a miss, unless this is completely different then other cars ive had missed from. When im cruising on the freeway, and when i punch it theres no hesitation or anything its just when im at idle and in gear. Also in the morning as soon as i start it up if i put it in drive it wants to die and will if i dont put it in park.
02-28-2011, 06:09 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 23
I'm not sure how strict the emissions test is in your location, but if they only do an inspection and check for an SES then you can probably get away with headers and O2 sims. Although, that isn't exactly going the cheap route...
Best bet is to change your bank 2 O2 sensor at the front pre-cat and see if that takes care of it. If not, then you'll need to replace your front pre-cat.
Best bet is to change your bank 2 O2 sensor at the front pre-cat and see if that takes care of it. If not, then you'll need to replace your front pre-cat.
They do a cursory visual inspection and run through the computer for an SES.
A sensor was 60-100 from what I remember.
At any rate, I am trying the super cheap (but not as cheap due to rising gas prices) method: cat cleaner plus high octane gas for 2 tanks. Will see what happens after reset of light.
Thanks for your help.
02-28-2011, 07:38 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: obx NC
Posts: 92
Got a quick question. The main cat doesnt have any O2 sencers so could you replace it with this and not have any SES codes?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MEGAN...Q5fCarQ5fParts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MEGAN...Q5fCarQ5fParts