5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Got a quick question. The main cat doesnt have any O2 sencers so could you replace it with this and not have any SES codes?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MEGAN...Q5fCarQ5fParts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MEGAN...Q5fCarQ5fParts
HI everyone I'm acquiring a 2000 se 5sp for a daily driver, I'm in the process of a putting in a lower mi DEK and I'd like to know if there is a correct/incorrect form of installing the impulse wheel/ring gear as so it seems to be called here on the forum. Nissan can't give me an answer and i even spoke with an engineer at Fidanza who stated the he believes there is no real wrong way to install it onto the flywheel. thank you in advance.
Last edited by Danny3.0; 03-02-2011 at 08:21 PM.
Yeah. There is additive type stuff. It is called guaranteed to pass or cataclean and there are other brands.
Some swear by it. I dunno. Costs 10 bucks. Will re post results. Fingers crossed but no real expectations other than it probably helps in other ways.
Some swear by it. I dunno. Costs 10 bucks. Will re post results. Fingers crossed but no real expectations other than it probably helps in other ways.
I got a few CEL's related to my camshaft position sensor which I Google'd around and found it might be due to low/dirty oil. When it happened I would change the oil (it was happening every 3000 or so miles, the oil was always low but I never saw any on the ground.. but that isn't what this post is about).
Eventually I had to get my emissions inspection and apparently I had cleared the codes too recently. The CEL came back on and the oil wasn't low so I took it in.
It cost $750 at my shop. The position sensor looked to be marked up by 3x, which isn't entirely unexpected but they also replaced the "Camshaft timing solenoid", a $227 part and $110 in labor. Part number was DAT23796EA20A.
When I got home I Googled around and couldn't find anything about this part. I'm hoping they didn't just completely screw me.
Does this seem reasonable? Does this part exist, and should it have been replaced with the sensor?
Eventually I had to get my emissions inspection and apparently I had cleared the codes too recently. The CEL came back on and the oil wasn't low so I took it in.
It cost $750 at my shop. The position sensor looked to be marked up by 3x, which isn't entirely unexpected but they also replaced the "Camshaft timing solenoid", a $227 part and $110 in labor. Part number was DAT23796EA20A.
When I got home I Googled around and couldn't find anything about this part. I'm hoping they didn't just completely screw me.
Does this seem reasonable? Does this part exist, and should it have been replaced with the sensor?
The sensors are 80$ per bank, and the job isn't very difficult.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/23731m-...ml?cPath=1956&
The solenoids require a bit more work, but still it's not that bad of a job. Parts are 136 per bank.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/23796-v...ml?cPath=1956&
http://www.courtesyparts.com/23731m-...ml?cPath=1956&
The solenoids require a bit more work, but still it's not that bad of a job. Parts are 136 per bank.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/23796-v...ml?cPath=1956&
I am wanting to order a set of Ti Wheels Ti7 rims for my 2k2 Maxima, the bolt pattern is 5x144.3 with a +48 offset and the website says they will not fit my car, would they? And also, do you tihnk they would look good on my dark blue maxima? Here's the image url. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...XkIEfK5puQ&t=1
Thanks!
Thanks!
I am wanting to order a set of Ti Wheels Ti7 rims for my 2k2 Maxima, the bolt pattern is 5x144.3 with a +48 offset and the website says they will not fit my car, would they? And also, do you tihnk they would look good on my dark blue maxima? Here's the image url. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...XkIEfK5puQ&t=1
Thanks!
Thanks!
For some reason these wheel selling online stores have a very conservative values for our cars in comparison to the stock width/offset.
Although, I would suggest a little lower offset. They might be right, that high of offset might rub on the strut.
How wide are they? And if I may suggest a +30 or +35 in 8 or 8.5" width.
Pretty sure you meant 5x114.3. If it is 144.3, then they wont.
For some reason these wheel selling online stores have a very conservative values for our cars in comparison to the stock width/offset.
Although, I would suggest a little lower offset. They might be right, that high of offset might rub on the strut.
How wide are they? And if I may suggest a +30 or +35 in 8 or 8.5" width.
For some reason these wheel selling online stores have a very conservative values for our cars in comparison to the stock width/offset.
Although, I would suggest a little lower offset. They might be right, that high of offset might rub on the strut.
How wide are they? And if I may suggest a +30 or +35 in 8 or 8.5" width.
I would try and get like I said either 8 or 8.5 and +30 or 35, anything is better than +48 If you must get 7.5's, go for at maximum +40.
Take my advice, you wont regret it.
Alright thanks for the heads up, they only offer that offset in it so I'll have to look around. Glad I didn't go ahead and order them
Hey guys, i found a good deal on stock aluminum wheels for 5.5gen maxima, the 17 inch version.
I have a 5th gen, maxima, would they fit my car? My current wheels are just ugly and look terrible...
I have a 5th gen, maxima, would they fit my car? My current wheels are just ugly and look terrible...
I know im bumping myself, but have been reading about this IAC so did the press the brake and gas and see if it revs up test and it failed. Also what should my rpms be at, at idle and in gear at a stop. To me the idle seems low especially since this is not a small block chevy with a loping cam. right now im sitting at around 800 in park and just above 500 in gear at a stop.
the big gap probably caused the engine to be running rich and pushing way too much unburned gas through the cat. It could have plugged up the precat as they do not last forever. To quote the FSM, "three way catalyst does not have enough oxygen storage capacity." But since you just re-gapped the spark plugs, wait a day or two and get the SES light reset and see what the situation is.
If you need a service manual (FSM) download one from here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
If you need a service manual (FSM) download one from here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
I've waited a few days now and plan on resetting the SES light but not because I wanted too wait. I planned on driving the car around for a few days but now the a/c compressor pully bearing is making noise and the clutch is starting to slip. I got some one to do the clutch for $100 plus parts and getting a new bearing installed on the pully for $100 out the door.
Rear struts
First off I would like to say thank you. In the last month I have replaced my radiator, hoses, front struts, swaybar endlinks and bushings. I had very little experience working on cars but through conducting exhaustive searches through this site I was able to do it all on my own. With that being said I am having a hard time finding detailed info on replacing rear struts for my 01. I found 1 set of how to's with maybe 5 steps. Can anyone help this newb out.
First off I would like to say thank you. In the last month I have replaced my radiator, hoses, front struts, swaybar endlinks and bushings. I had very little experience working on cars but through conducting exhaustive searches through this site I was able to do it all on my own. With that being said I am having a hard time finding detailed info on replacing rear struts for my 01. I found 1 set of how to's with maybe 5 steps. Can anyone help this newb out.
Is something missing here?
Hello,
I'm new here to the forums and got a question. I just checked my 2002 maxima under the hood and noticed what looks like a connection to some type of pipe missing. Left hand side of engine if standing from the front of the car. I'm I missing something here? I put my hand to it and I can feel air suction.
Hope you guys can help. Thanks!
I'm new here to the forums and got a question. I just checked my 2002 maxima under the hood and noticed what looks like a connection to some type of pipe missing. Left hand side of engine if standing from the front of the car. I'm I missing something here? I put my hand to it and I can feel air suction.
Hope you guys can help. Thanks!
Hello,
I'm new here to the forums and got a question. I just checked my 2002 maxima under the hood and noticed what looks like a connection to some type of pipe missing. Left hand side of engine if standing from the front of the car. I'm I missing something here? I put my hand to it and I can feel air suction.
Hope you guys can help. Thanks!
I'm new here to the forums and got a question. I just checked my 2002 maxima under the hood and noticed what looks like a connection to some type of pipe missing. Left hand side of engine if standing from the front of the car. I'm I missing something here? I put my hand to it and I can feel air suction.
Hope you guys can help. Thanks!
I don't see an open hose in your pic, I do see the belt tensioner(gold color) right in the middle of your pic. If you could take the pic with something pointing at the connection your talking about might be helpful to someone like me whos eye sight isn't as good as it use to be
I don't see an open hose in your pic, I do see the belt tensioner(gold color) right in the middle of your pic. If you could take the pic with something pointing at the connection your talking about might be helpful to someone like me whos eye sight isn't as good as it use to be
I just purchsed the car a couple days ago and was planning a tune up this weekend. I got the oil, oil filter, p/s belt, alt belt, spark plugs (platinum tipped), air filter, cabin filter. I checked the tranny fluid looks like a nice clean red, so I wont be changing that.
Any other thing you might suggest I get replaced while I'm at it?
Originally Posted by wiseguy55
I just purchsed the car a couple days ago and was planning a tune up this weekend. I got the oil, oil filter, p/s belt, alt belt, spark plugs (platinum tipped), air filter, cabin filter. I checked the tranny fluid looks like a nice clean red, so I wont be changing that.
One qucik question, I live in California, I bought 10W-30 oil, should I exchange it for the recommended 5W-30 viscosity oil instead? The maxima has 127K on the clock.
Great thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it. I've always done the maintenance on my vehicles, so I'm pretty handy with tools. I'll check those hoses.
One qucik question, I live in California, I bought 10W-30 oil, should I exchange it for the recommended 5W-30 viscosity oil instead? The maxima has 127K on the clock.
One qucik question, I live in California, I bought 10W-30 oil, should I exchange it for the recommended 5W-30 viscosity oil instead? The maxima has 127K on the clock.
So I don't want to start a new thread but had a thought on replacing my lights with the I30/35 headlights. Is that even possible? They would if they fit be going into a 2000. I know that the hood shape is a little different but the lights look to be the same.
thanks,
thanks,
HI everyone I'm acquiring a 2000 se 5sp for a daily driver, I'm in the process of a putting in a lower mi DEK and I'd like to know if there is a correct/incorrect form of installing the impulse wheel/ring gear as so it seems to be called here on the forum. Nissan can't give me an answer and i even spoke with an engineer at Fidanza who stated the he believes there is no real wrong way to install it onto the flywheel. thank you in advance.
Anyone have any input? I'm trying to get this 100% perfect before bolting the tranny on etc.
Excuse me I can only write it here, maybe someone will post the topic in the right place, I have a big problem and need your help.
You are my last chance. I have Maxima 2001 Japan, A33, with a 3 litre engine, Europe
Sorry for my English concerning terminology. I think I have problems with AAC VALVE - sometimes it happens, especially when I press acceleration pedal (on N or Parking) and pull it back - the speed of engine goes so low that engine stops. I was clearing MAF but nothing helps - sometimes it happens when I change gear to Drive engine stops. I think it could be AAC-VALVE.
This part is in Europe very very expensive. In nissan they told me it is number 237812y010. I found in the shop something with a different symbol. Can it be 23781U IACV-AAC VALVE VQ20DE? Please tell me if it will fit to my Maxima? I expect this a small engine for slow turnovers, please correct me or give me a right terminology.
I found it here http://www.courtesyparts.com/23781u-...-p-193630.html . There are pictures there. Please confirm and if so where is the best shop to buy it in US?
You are my last chance. I have Maxima 2001 Japan, A33, with a 3 litre engine, Europe
Sorry for my English concerning terminology. I think I have problems with AAC VALVE - sometimes it happens, especially when I press acceleration pedal (on N or Parking) and pull it back - the speed of engine goes so low that engine stops. I was clearing MAF but nothing helps - sometimes it happens when I change gear to Drive engine stops. I think it could be AAC-VALVE.
This part is in Europe very very expensive. In nissan they told me it is number 237812y010. I found in the shop something with a different symbol. Can it be 23781U IACV-AAC VALVE VQ20DE? Please tell me if it will fit to my Maxima? I expect this a small engine for slow turnovers, please correct me or give me a right terminology.
I found it here http://www.courtesyparts.com/23781u-...-p-193630.html . There are pictures there. Please confirm and if so where is the best shop to buy it in US?
Excuse me I can only write it here, maybe someone will post the topic in the right place, I have a big problem and need your help.
You are my last chance. I have Maxima 2001 Japan, A33, with a 3 litre engine, Europe
Sorry for my English concerning terminology. I think I have problems with AAC VALVE - sometimes it happens, especially when I press acceleration pedal (on N or Parking) and pull it back - the speed of engine goes so low that engine stops. I was clearing MAF but nothing helps - sometimes it happens when I change gear to Drive engine stops. I think it could be AAC-VALVE.
This part is in Europe very very expensive. In nissan they told me it is number 237812y010. I found in the shop something with a different symbol. Can it be 23781U IACV-AAC VALVE VQ20DE? Please tell me if it will fit to my Maxima? I expect this a small engine for slow turnovers, please correct me or give me a right terminology.
I found it here http://www.courtesyparts.com/23781u-...-p-193630.html . There are pictures there. Please confirm and if so where is the best shop to buy it in US?
You are my last chance. I have Maxima 2001 Japan, A33, with a 3 litre engine, Europe
Sorry for my English concerning terminology. I think I have problems with AAC VALVE - sometimes it happens, especially when I press acceleration pedal (on N or Parking) and pull it back - the speed of engine goes so low that engine stops. I was clearing MAF but nothing helps - sometimes it happens when I change gear to Drive engine stops. I think it could be AAC-VALVE.
This part is in Europe very very expensive. In nissan they told me it is number 237812y010. I found in the shop something with a different symbol. Can it be 23781U IACV-AAC VALVE VQ20DE? Please tell me if it will fit to my Maxima? I expect this a small engine for slow turnovers, please correct me or give me a right terminology.
I found it here http://www.courtesyparts.com/23781u-...-p-193630.html . There are pictures there. Please confirm and if so where is the best shop to buy it in US?
that is the IACV in your link, I just replaced that on my Maxima. On my Max the engine would idle high and kept going up and down. I don't know if I was of any help,Good luck
What's the process like and what tools are necessary? Is there an easy way to determine which coil is bad? I'd like to avoid replacing all six if possible.
As an update, last weekend I pulled out of my driveway and the engine sounded and felt like it was misfiring. It stayed like this for maybe 1/4 mile and SEL light started flashing. After the 1/4 mile the engine went back to normal and SEL light stopped and has stayed off since. From what I've seen on the internet and on this forum a flashing SEL means bad ignition coils.
Would a bad ignition coil go in and out? I always thought that it one was bad it was bad.
As an update, last weekend I pulled out of my driveway and the engine sounded and felt like it was misfiring. It stayed like this for maybe 1/4 mile and SEL light started flashing. After the 1/4 mile the engine went back to normal and SEL light stopped and has stayed off since. From what I've seen on the internet and on this forum a flashing SEL means bad ignition coils.
Would a bad ignition coil go in and out? I always thought that it one was bad it was bad.
What's the process like and what tools are necessary? Is there an easy way to determine which coil is bad? I'd like to avoid replacing all six if possible.
As an update, last weekend I pulled out of my driveway and the engine sounded and felt like it was misfiring. It stayed like this for maybe 1/4 mile and SEL light started flashing. After the 1/4 mile the engine went back to normal and SEL light stopped and has stayed off since. From what I've seen on the internet and on this forum a flashing SEL means bad ignition coils.
Would a bad ignition coil go in and out? I always thought that it one was bad it was bad.
As an update, last weekend I pulled out of my driveway and the engine sounded and felt like it was misfiring. It stayed like this for maybe 1/4 mile and SEL light started flashing. After the 1/4 mile the engine went back to normal and SEL light stopped and has stayed off since. From what I've seen on the internet and on this forum a flashing SEL means bad ignition coils.
Would a bad ignition coil go in and out? I always thought that it one was bad it was bad.
PLZ Help The Newbee
hey Everyone i had a few questions about my '02 I35, im going to have to replace a front strut and i have the tokico illuminas on the car and was going to go to the blues because from what ive heard is the coil overs arent a good idea on rough roads( i live in north nj). my main questiions are since its only one strut if i go with the hp serious of tokico will i have to replace both front stuts or can i leave the illumina thats fine, second can i leave the illuminas in the rear also.
thanx in advance
thanx in advance
I would have matching pairs. It's ok if front & rear don't match, but left and right definitely should.
Also, I just sent you a PM. You're local, and I do a LOT of Maxima suspensions in the area. If you have questions or need work done, give me a call
Also, I just sent you a PM. You're local, and I do a LOT of Maxima suspensions in the area. If you have questions or need work done, give me a call
This question is for the Chicago members,
Do you guys know any nissan techs locally that will do Advanced Timing? I usually service my car at MidTown Nissan, but I'm not sure how candid they are about just doing it for me because I asked. I'm due for an oil change in about 500 miles too.
Thanks. PM me or Email me if you know of a nissan tech locally that will do it.
Do you guys know any nissan techs locally that will do Advanced Timing? I usually service my car at MidTown Nissan, but I'm not sure how candid they are about just doing it for me because I asked. I'm due for an oil change in about 500 miles too.
Thanks. PM me or Email me if you know of a nissan tech locally that will do it.