L36

iTrader: (4)

Hello.
It seems when my car idles, if you listen very carefully, you can hear this faint ticking noise... Only when idling and its not the valves... Just to be more specific, only heard in the interior, if i were to pop the hood and listen, you cant hear it. Its fairly quiet, not something noticeable. Noticed since my radio is not working since my speaker amp died... Maybe its just the timing chain and im being paranoid?

j_p_designs

Someone else may know better than me, but I would guess its an exhaust leak or something else in the exhaust system that is loose. Have you tried to get under the car when idling?

01max5spd

do both of the years use the same exact TB?

vinco

iTrader: (3)

If your brake pedal still feels solid, you probably don't need to re-bleed. The fluid level drops in the master cylinder for only 2 reasons: 1. Brake pad wear, which means more fluid volume is stored in the calipers, and 2. leak(s). Either way, you need to at least give the system a good inspection and fix the problems you may find. rear calipers on the 5th and 5.5 gen cars are notoriously bad and often need replacement. If yours are leaking or sticking badly, then save yourself time and money in the long run by just putting rebuilt calipers on it in the first place.

BoDenKai

iTrader: (1)

mine does the same. I still have not gotten a solid answer for this

bigbw03

I have a 2002 Maxima GLE with 150000 miles. About 6 months ago the battery and Brake lights started flickering, and then one day the car died on my way to work. I did some tests and ended up needing to put in a brand new alternator. Now 6 months later the brake and battery lights started flickering again. They flicker at the same time totally in sync usually when I go over 35-40 mph. Sometimes they don't flicker at all. I know this is typical for when the alternator is going out, but am concerned since I just put in a brand new alternator 6 months ago. Could the lights be flickering because of some other reason, like the belt is too loose, or a problem with the battery? Please any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Mastodon

Hey guys,
I have a 2000 Maxima SE, A/T, and I'm looking for some guidance as to where I should go from here in terms of performance modification. I currently have an Injen CAI and I'm not sure what would be best to work toward next.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Just because it's a new alternator doesn't mean it's not faulty. Take it back to where you got it from.

craigc

Hi: I'm a new member and recently bought a 2001 se 5 spd with 65,000 miles. The car runs fine, I did have to replace the clutch so the previous owner was obviously not careful. My major complaint is the suspension. I tested the struts and they return well when bounced but the car clunks and groans over bumps. The ride has too much float and it doesn't give me a sense of confidence. I don't want to lower the suspension, but I do prefer a firmer more solid ride. Does anyone have any suggestions or at least some feedback on options. Thanks.

L36

iTrader: (4)

I'm fairly sure its the timing chain...

sleepyzzz

yes i should have searched but the wife was on my butt like i had slipped out to the garage during the night and messed her car up on purpose. some of you guys will know what i mean.

anyway, i did have a busted hose, that and four gaskets with labor was close to $150 with tax. if i had known about the s s braided hose, i would have been all over that. the first one lasted a hundred thousand miles, so when you spread that out over the five or six years that we have owned the car, thats no so bad.

and the wife is back happy again and that is worth a hell of a lot more than the $150 i spent.

tdabboud

iTrader: (6)

hey guys I have been having constant troubles with my car lately.

As I drive the car straight everything is fine, but once i turn the car to the left slightly I get this horrible grinding noise. If I turn the steering wheel right it stops automatically.

My attempt to fix the issue.
I figured since it only happens turning left then ir must be the front Right wheel bearing since the weight shifts to that side when turning right. So I went ahead and replaced the bearing and the hub. I also replaced the pass side axle too. Well after that nothing changed. So I took it to a shop to check it out and they told me my driver side axle was messed up and they used a stethescope to listen to both bearings and said they sounded fine.
So this morning I replaced the driver side axle and nothing changed. So now I am clueless on what it is. I hope someone could help me out thanks!

EDIT: Do you think it could possibly be the control arm bushing on the right side? I do have a power steering leak on that side which may be eating the bushing. Just a thought

bscott8504

I've got a 2001 and was wondering if anyone could direct me to some sites that sell decent suspension kits or the struts and shocks with springs. I'm looking to only spend about $800 so any help would be great.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Where are you located? This is a very loaded question. We need more info about how low you want to go, what kind of driving, what kind of roads are near you, etc.

bscott8504

I live in North Central Texas, drive on anything from back county roads (dirt some pot holes) to city driving, front I'm thinking about as low as 1" and maybe 1.5" in the back. I want a comfortable but sporty drive (I don't want to feel every bump but do want the suspension to be rather stiff so as to take corners better).

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Typically springs will lower the car more in the front than the back. Sounds like you want a moderate drop, nothing crazy.

Have a look at this website, it will help you decide ride height.
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

Once that's done and you've picked your springs, get a set of Tokico Illuminas (about $450 shipped for all 4).

Then, get a pair of front strut mounts with bearings, a full set of dustboots all the way around, and you'll be good to go.

bscott8504

I have a 2001 Maxima with 167k on it, its a automatic (considering transmission swap). Looking to basically rebuild the entire engine... Maybe put in bigger aluminum pistons (though I'm not sure what size yet and yes I know this would mean boring the engine out [ which leads to another question how far can I bore the engine out?]) or even better can I do an engine swap with a 350z or 370z engine? Would definetly like to replace the cams, valves, valve springs. I'll also need a new ecu or a piggyback to the stock ecu. Of course replace the intake and the exhaust manifolds. Which leads to yet another question are there any Turbos or Superchargers available cause I've looked and my results are coming up dry? Finally finishing with a new cat back system.

Where should I start and does anyone have any suggestions as to what companies I should look into? I'm only looking to gain maybe another 150bhp.

azneau28

Just recently bought a 2k maxima SE a/t. Has almost 200k miles, owner I got it from kept very good maintenance records and I can see he put alot of money into things that do go out with time. Only issues I have with the car at the moment is the shake of the engine while sitting in park, and gets worse when its in drive at a stand still. Rpms look fine as there is no jumpiness in them. Sounds like engine/tanny mounts to me but was just wanting a 2nd opinion. Also is there any of "must have" maintenance done at the interval.

vinco

iTrader: (3)

No. Z-cars are rear wheel drive, and the engine block castings are totally different. You could do a 3.5 swap from a Maxima, Altima, Quest, or FX35, though.

crayzs

Noob here. Trying to get a 2001 I30 to pass emissions here in Houston TX.

Check engine light is on. Don't have the code right now but has to do with catalytic converters from what I remember. I heard a Y pipe will work - be less expensive and bypasses the precats and runs better too. Sounds good to me. Will this work?

Thanks!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Depends on which pre-cat the code is related to; P0420 or P0430. Post back with the SES code.

efanatic

I have precat codes What would be involved to get these removed(the cats) and get the SES light off? If its a pain to do and easier just to replace the cats I am willing to do that

Slow Motion

Ehem,

2000 Maxima GLE A/T

I am having transmission problems (The transmission refuses to shift into 3rd quite oftern) and I am pretty sure I am going to have to replace it. As my first option, I would like to know if I could replace it with the 6spd A/T from a 5.5 gen. If not I would like to get A/T with LSD that was offered in the Canadian market. I am going to look this up but, I was hoping that I would get some immediate responses here. Thanx in advance.

Please PM responses,

Slow Motion

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Seems to me it be easier to buy a new pre-cat and just repalce it with that.

The 5.5 gen was still stuck with the 4AT. And sure, Canadian market AT's are pretty easy to find on car-part.com from all years (00-03).

crayzs

Update to the post a few up from here. The codes is P0430 (catalyst bank 2).

The code reader gave me the typical possible culprits: large vacuum leak, faulty ignition or faulty fuel injection or cat converter.

I found some other stuff that pointed to 02 sensors (though this code doesn't seem to deal with them) gas cap issues, elevation and ECM too.

I am guessing it is the cat as almost everyone that has posted something seems to have had issues with that. I suppose I'll have it looked at more closely.

Think the y pipe will enable me to pass emissions in Houston, TX without replacting the cat?

Thanks.

Slow Motion

Suck but I will be going with the canadian market at. I am having issues and just want to replace. After researching (i.e using the search function) I saw a thread that said I should try cleaning the speed sensor first before I replace the transmission. Is there anyone with experience in doing this? Is there any truth to this?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would try and find an 00-01 VLSD. I think even some I30 AT's were also LSD, even in the 4th gen years.

Slow Motion

What's the difference between the 00-01 VLSD and the Canadian LSD when it comes to the max? Price? (Price is a good reason) And are the transmissions and transmission codes the same in the I30 and Max?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Everything is identical except for the Country of where the car was sold.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Y-pipe will not take care of the bank 2 cat as it won't eliminate it. You have a few options:

1. Use an O2 sim (do a search).
2. Replace pre-cat with an aftermarket part. Some members on here have had success with this and it is a less expensive option than stock replacement.
3. Cross your fingers and hope you can find a used pre-cat in a junkyard somewhere.

crayzs

Thanks for the input. I see we have/had the same lame car seat issues too.

I am thinking O2 sim or used. But will probably end up with aftermarket. We will see. Thanks again.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Funny how i had the 430 code pop up several times, i got sick of it so did not clear it and bought the cat i needed to replace (P0430 code)

The CEL went away just as the day i received my brand new cat, so im simply going to wait until it come back again and replace the cat.
Has been 1K miles thus far, no CEL, yes the light itself works...
I have gut feeling if i were to return that new cat, it will comeback ASAP...

Seems my maxi likes to play games with me..

crayzs

Any suggestions on O2 sim?

I see electrical and non. Thinking non. Thanks.

http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/mini-cat-cel-fix.html

http://www.o2spacer.com/

Electrical - http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php?main_page=product_reviews&cPath=1_9&prod ucts_id=9&number_of_uploads=0

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Nah, just get a real O2 sensor or replace the pre-cat. Pre-cat will do catastrophic damage the engine if not taken care of quickly, or at least for some that has been the case.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I believe the damage you are referring to comes from the rear pre-cat failing and stuff getting sucked up into the EGR system back into the engine.

The P0430 is the front cat which, if fails will only potentially damage the main cat.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Oh freak. You're right.. Yeah, I dunno, sims was last on your list food, and I would suggest it as also being last on the question askers list too.

crayzs

Sims was actually first on Food's list...but I don't know that there was necessarily any priority to the list?

I would prefer the quick and cheap route to buy some time. I obviously don't want to impair the car longer term just in case. But from what I heard from a mechanic prior to Food is that only mileage is impacted. That being said, Food makes sense to me in that the main cat would potentially get messed up if the pre-cat is bad.

01max5spd

how to replace alternator for 2001 nissan maxima? im not sure if there is a thread on here somewhere to do it.

Unclejunebug

Been away from the forum for awhile, but I'd still consider myself a newb...

I have a 2002 GLE with a little under 80k miles on it and I'm having an issue that I think is related to either the MAF, the O2 sensors, or the IACV.

About two weeks ago my SES light came on and I had a mechanic buddy pull the codes. He hooked up his code reader but it said there were no diagnostic trouble codes to report. Sort of odd, so he reset the ECM to see if the light would return and since then the light has remained off. Just a few days ago I turned my car on and the engine was chugging quite a bit and was pretty shaky. The closest thing I can think of that would be similar is the feeling you get when you have bad motor mounts. I turned the car off, waited a few minutes, and then turned it back on and it was fine. No shakiness or chugging.

It's happened a few times since then but always goes away. I don't think there's an issue with the mounts since the problem is intermittent, but since the SES light is still off and there's no diagnostic codes I'm not sure how to proceed in the trouble shooting. One thing I have noticed is that my gas mileage has gone down quite a bit and quite sharply too. As in one day my gas mileage was normal and then the next day it was bad. No gradual degradation. This is why I think it's MAF or O2 sensor related.

Anyone have any ideas?