I really don't understand your issue. Were you fogs working, now they don't, or did you just buy a kit?

 

You pull the fuse out and look at the flat side of it. You should see a dark line (the fuse wire) connecting the 2 metal legs. You may have to hold the fuse up to a light for this.

Have you looked at the light bulbs yet?

 

I did a retro fit HID foglights on my 2000 Maxima SE. I just dont understand why one light output is more then the other? The Passenger side fog light is OEM and the Driver side was in pretty bad shape so I had to get a aftermarket Foglight housing. Here is the pic could you guys let me know whats the deal? HID's are 35W 6000K

 

Part of the difference might be that the inner shape of the lamp housing on the replacement is different. The shape determines how the light is disbursed from the housing - whether it is a spotlight effect or a floodlight effect.

But I think that the driver's side is aimed lower. You can see a definite spot on the street in front of the driver's side.

 

^ THANKS FOR THE REPLY... IS THERE A THREAD FOR AIMING FOGLIGHTS? IT IS CLEARLY AIMING DOWN.. HOW DO I GO ABOUT DOING SO?

 

There is a white plastic phillips head screw you turn to aim the fogs.

 

You were correct. There was no coolant in the radiator, but there was some in the core. I got REALLY lucky and did not blow a head gasket or worse. I ended up having the leaking radiator replaced. Thanks
Bill

 

That's good that you didn't have any engine damage. And it's good to hear that you back behind the wheel cruising and smiling.

 

hello , i am in need of assistance plz , i brought my car in dec. , with the windows not workin , the guuy told me i needed to replace the smart entry module , or how ever u call it , and before buying that i wanted to know if it was really what was needed , he doesnt answer my calls anymore , so i got the master switch checked and the motor , n no luck , any suggestions plz ?

 

Download the service manual (link in my sig). It will have the troubleshooting steps. It's not uncommon for the SECU (smart entrance control unit) to go out. If you do get the SECU, I'm pretty sure you will have to repgram your keyfobs and keys.

 

Just looking for some replacement wiper blades. I know this isn't a very prominent issue but I just thought this would be a good place for someone to recommend something good for me. So if anyone knows of any good/cheap replacements i would appreciate it.

 

I prefer to use the Trico or Ansco brands. They both last the longest but are not the cheapest. You can buy cheap and replace them more often or pay a little more and replace them less frequently.

 

I just get the Michelin ones from Costco. They're better than most and a reasonable price.

 

I picked up a pair of Rain-X ones from Wal-Mart over a year ago and haven't had any problems with them at all...they aren't all too expensive either.


Now if someone could help me out please and provide me with the part number for the AE door sills I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

 

Nissan documentation is difficult at its easiest and trim is a biatch. I THINK I have the AE ones, but verify it with the parts department.

769B0-2Y004 Plate-kicking, front outer right-hand
769B1-2Y004 Plate-kicking, front outer left-hand
769B2-2Y004 Plate-kicking, rear outer right-hand
769B3-2Y004 Plate-kicking, rear outer left-hand

The list price is $29.40 for the fronts and $26 something for the rears.

 

Hello guys,
I want to add LED strips below the door and in the footwell, and they should come ON when I open the door.

Would it be correct to tap into the door lights on both sides?
So if I install 2 LED strips on each side, I can connect the pairs of strips into each door light on the front doors?
I don't know how the door lights are wired so I don't know if it's fine to connect stuff to it.

ALSO, I thought about using a relay to switch the LEDs, and hat relay will be powered from the car's battery and be switched whenever the door light comes ON. So in this case, the door light will simply act as a signal to the relay. Would this method be better if the previous one is not good?

Thanks.

 

Hi, I had a question regarding my rear suspension. I started to notice this clunking noise coming from rear of the car about 2-3 months ago. It started to become more noticeable lately. So i changed struts, boots and strut mounts. But noise is still there when going over uneven pavement.
Please help.

Here is a little video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjaiZASJgsk

 

Doesn't sound suspension related - sounds like something rattling. Check heat shields, and brake dustshield.

 

You're not driving a Civic - my opinion is to forego this job and concentrate your efforts elsewhere.

But if you MUST, yes you can tap the door light. Use the relay if you're not getting enough juice from the door light.

 

What he said.

The lights in the doors (Nissan calls them step lights) are not connected directly to 12 volts and are not connectec directly to ground. The lights get both the 12 volts and ground from the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit). This means you would have to tap into both sides of the step lamp. As long the led strips don't overload the SECU, it will work. I don't know how much "reserve capacity" the SECU has, but led lights don't draw that much current.

If you wanted to add the led strips to the rear doors, that is a different story since the rear doors don't have any step lights. You would want to add a relay to supply battery power and you could use the door switches for ground to energize the relay.

 

Hello everyone, I got a question about the HID headlights in the 2002-2003 Maximas: Can I add an halogen bulb instead of the Xenon bulb for the Low Beam light?

Maybe you ask why... It's because the price of the HID bulbs it's too high! And I want to change the headlights in my 01 Maxima for the 02-03 headlights. And no, I'm not planning in put an Halogen bulb with the ballast for Xenon.

Thanks.

 

I'm assuming the car you own is an 00-01. You CAN put the 02-03 headlights onto an 00-01, but you'll need to splice new harnesses onto the car so they can interface with the 02-03 assemblies. Plenty of people have done this.

But it's NOT advisable to use halogen bulbs on the HID assemblies for SO many reasons.

1. Wiring. The harnesses are different. You'll have to splice a halogen connector onto the harness. The 00-01 headlights are high/low beam in one bulb while the 02-03 are two separate. This adds further complexity.
2. Optics. The 02-03 reflectors are made for HID bulb light patterns. Halogen is not the same light pattern, you'll have light reflecting in all the wrong ways.
3. Idiotic. You want to spend money for 02-03 assemblies but can't afford the right bulb? Don't bother if money is that tight. You're not getting ANYTHING out of the HID assemblies with halogen in them. Dumb.

 

Thanks for the quick answer

I only have one Maxima (SE 01 Automatic), I ask about the headlights because one friend of mine just bought new headlights (ricer headlights) for his 2003 Maxima and he's offering me the old ones for $200 bucks but without ballasts. But with the answer that you give I'll keep my stock headlights for a while. Even it's hard to find the HID bulbs in my hometown and the price it's around of $100 dollars for each bulb! (BTW I live in Mexico, that's the reason of that price )

 

Your friend is a dummy

 

Could a VQ35DE handle 8 psi of boost on stock internals?

 

Fairly certain it's possible - but not 100%.

But with that much boost you need to address fuel supply issues.

Start reading the forced induction sub-forum. There are a lot of serious setups over there.
http://forums.maxima.org/forced-induction-79/

 

this is my first time attempting to ask a question on here...
hope that I'm doing it the right way...
and i asking about my 2002 Nissan maxima 6spd

anyways, well today i was making a uturn, at a traffic light and i had the wheel turned all the way hard to the left, then I heard a noise "like a spring stretching or clunking".... shortly afterwords i noticed my steering wheel is alittle outta line! meaning not straight like it was.... then on my trip back home i was being as observant as possible... and it seemed to me, that when i would get on it alittle bit it would go back to the straight position? then just drive normal doing the speed limit, the steering wheel was back to being of alittle bit....

 

I would get that checked out. Something to do with your tie rods?

If your alignment is going in and out of correction, there is definitely something loose - potentially dangerous.

 

That could be a bad bushing on the lower control arm. Check the arms on both sides of the car, not just the left side..

 

i just swapped my A/T 2001's to an M/T and everything went according to plan but one thing happened during the process ... i accidently touched two wires coming out from the crankshaft position sensor(POS) together while my ignition was on! so it obviously did spark but i fried something??? i know for sure its now my ECU nor my crankshaft position sensor because i've changed both and it still cranks and the rpm gauge does nothing and before this happened it cranked and the engine wanted to fire up but now it just turns freely with no intention of doing nothing ... help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

 

The fogs aren't working, I'm trying to figure out how to get them working.

 

No I haven't it's connected but they're not on. I thought I could just wire it up without having to un-install them.

 

I have to agree with VQPOWER. It's almost like you are avoiding the qusetions. Not answering the questions is keeping us from helping you.

Did you just add the fog lights or have they been on the car all along and they stopped working?

When you say un-install, that says to me that the lights are already on the car.

Wire it up says that the lights were not on the car originally and you (or somebody) installed them and now you want to complete the installation by adding the wires to the car.

Please tell us the history of these fog lights...

 

Hi,
I'm new here but been lurking around the forum for the past month or so. This forums has helped me to pick up the right car and learned more about it. I have been searching but need more clarification:

1. I'm getting Tien CO for 00 Max. They come optional with pillow block mount. If I choose to use OEM mount, how would then I adjust the camber if I go low. In my past life, I didn't have any issue with 1-1.5 inch low on Accord so allignement is do-able withouth camber. OEM more is more rigid thus not soo much noise problem like the pillow block, true? Anyone know where to get one under $1150 shipped?
2. The rear main seals start to seep, I'm thinking to leave it for now untill I see drops then would take care of it and the same time get the clutch done. Anyone has the same approach? Car has 125K. other then this, the car is dead solid.
3. what's the most quite catback system for 00 Max?

Thanks guys

 

Theoretically you can, you'll need to modify the D2S/D2R bulb holder to take Halogen bulb. To do this you need to open the headlight, get the reflector out and start the process. IMO not worth it. If you want to use 02-03 headlights, just get a cheap aftermarket D2S bulbs from Ebay if you can't afford OEM ones. I'd rather get a good OEM bulbs for $40 a pair at Ebay (be carefull) or go to HIDplanet under for sale forum. You get what you pay though. I run OEM bulbs and ballast only on my past retros .

IMO, don't go for 02-03 Maxima headligths. Save your money, stick with your 00-01, and do retrofit. You'll have better performance than even the 02-03 HID system (depend on the projector though).

my 2 cents

 

Thanks for the answer MSU2000 but I rejected the idea of buy the headlights, I just polished the current ones and they just look very nice.

The former owner just installed Xenon lights in them (bad decision... I hate Xenon lights, too bright for my like) and I just get rid of them today and installed a nice pair of Phillips Bluevision bulbs for headlights and fog-lights... I love how they illuminate my way in the night.

Greetings

 

The electronic motor mounts had damaged the ECU. Based on shop technician's advice, I cut the motor mount wiring inputs to pins 49 and 50 of the ECU, white and white/red wires. Then took the car to Nissan, replaced the ECU with salvage yard ECU, had my keys reprogrammed for the new ECU, and the car now runs great with no codes. So after about 6 weeks of heck and new fuel pump, new idle air valve, new MAF, and new oxygen sensor, everything is great. Depending on where I would have taken the car to and who I had dealt with, I would still be chasing codes, non-existant vacuum leaks, bad transmission, etc. However, all of it was indirectly or directly related to faulty ECU and bad motor mounts. By the way, the ECU with A56-Q79 ZA0 stamped on it and ECU with A56-R63 ZE7 stamped on it were equivalent for 2001 Maxima automatic, no traction control. If anyone has a problem with car running like crap, lots of codes, bad RPM, cannot bring the RPM into spec, etc., look at the ECU and motor mounts. Thanks for lots of good information on this site.

 

Where do I go about finding silicone couplers for a custom SRI? I've searched the auto parts stores' websites but haven't had any luck...is it just something I need to go into the store and ask for?

Thanks in advance for the info!

 

I want to hard wire my v1 but of course have no clue and I dont have the kit that came with it, so what should I buy to replace it??

 

Check out post #7 in this thread. There are a few sources listed throughout the thread. It has some great info in it. Might as well take a couple minutes and read through the entire thread.