Okay, so I was looking under my hood and saw what looks to be like a missing hose or something. Here are the pics


So there's a white tank under the battery and it has an opening, then there's the black piece thats on the front of the hood and has a opening at the bottom of it as well. Just wondering if this is normal or not, and whether or not it may effect the performance of my car.

 

You are missing a 90 degree elbow connector piece. I'm not sure exactly what the purpose of the white box serves, but I doubt if you are hurting the car. I would get one anyway, check the junk yards.

See part # 27 in the parts breakdown -

http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...l/air_cleaner/

 

At what mileage interval should the water pump be changed along with the timing chain with timing tensions ect?

Or its one of those things that don't touch if it ain't broke?

 

Timing chains are, to generalize, for the life of the car. Waterpump is not known to me to be a major issue with our cars so much as our radiators. (core support rotting out from rust, or just radiator failure.) I am sure there are members who have done them in the later years of ownership. Search.

 

I bought the car with the lights install, however it was never working at all and I wanted to hook them up.

 

If they are factory OEM fogs, then you should double check your fuses and ensure the relay is installed. The blue relay will be under the hood if I remember correctly. You have turned the fogs on via the light stalk, correct?

 

Just got back from the shop was told that my passenger rear caliper is locked destroying the rear right rotor and pad however the shop is telling me to replace both rear calipers, rotors and pads cost around 700 this doesnt make any sense cant i just replace the right rear caliper and rotors and both the pads on the rear...anyone have any recommendations on caliper brands and rotor brands trying to keep this as economical as possible without getting crappy quality. thanks

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rs-thread.html

No that doesn't make any sense. I would go with any caliper actually. My most recent set are from Autozone. No problems thus far.

Brakes are typically an easy job on this car.

 

So I'm working on putting together a custom SRI and just recieved my Apexi filter (p/n 500-A021) however, I realized that I now need an adapter, however, there are two listed on the Apexi website. Would someone be so kind as to shed some light on the exact adapter that I need to purchase and if I can get it somewhere else for a cheaper price. I'm thinking that the adapter that I need is p/n 500-AA07
Here is the website where I am getting the information:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?i...et=17330&rsku=

Edit: Will this adapter work just as well as the one from Apexi?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-3-Universal-...item2a05977074

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

So tomorrow plus a few.
I confirmed that the resistor had a blown thermal fuse and replaced that. The replaced blower motor only has one black and one red wire. I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car. I think this means I got the wrong motor. Autozone still suggests that this is the correct part but admits that it is a single speed and will give me my money back.
Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the wrong motor or is there some way to make it work.

 

There are only 2 wires going to the blower motor as it is a single speed motor. The resistor (or the amplifier, depending on the kind of a/c you have) sends between 4 volts and 12 volts to the motor to accomplish the different speeds.

But I don't know what you mean when you say "I am getting voltage perportional to the fan speed at both the wires coming out of the dash when I ground them to the car." If you ground a wire with voltage on it, you will see a spark as the fuse blows.

And I'm not exactly what wires you are "grounding". Are these the wires that go to the blower motor?

 

Wrong forum buddy. You'll want to ask in the 4th Gen section.

Welcome to the forums though.

Also, We don't have timing belts, we have timing chains that don't need to be replaced unless it's broke. Good luck.

 

I have a 2002 Maxima and I'm planning on replacing the coils and plugs since I've been getting an intermittent rough idle lately. I've been shopping around online and I see some sites that have the part but are labeled as being for cars produced after 9/31/01. What's the deal here? Aren't the engines the same in all '02 models with a 3.5L? I asked one of their "experts" and he said the "setup" is different but couldn't tell me what the difference was. It seems to me that a part number is a part number.

Is there actually a difference here based on production date?

EDIT: I should add, my Max has a production date of 07/01.

 

Correct, the lights don't work so it's either the fuse of it's just not connected, when I bought the car they weren't working either.

 

And are all ignition coils created equal? Nissan wants ~$130 for one but I've seen sets of six coils for about $150 online. Are the Nissan ones just that much better?

 

Searched and searched. But if anyone who knows enough to give me a good answer. What is going to give me better sound (loudness) still staying away from fart can sound haha. The Tsudo N1 or the Megan Racing? In a dilemma. Help.

 

When compared to the $25 ones on e-bay, would think hell yes. While parts at the dealer are usually higher than a parts store, that e-bay "deal" can't be equal. Autozone sells them for about $75 each. I have replaced 2 of my coils with autozone ones and 2+ years later they are still doing ok.

But when something is significantly cheaper, I question its durability/life span.

 

It's a matter of personal preference; what's "fart car sound" to you, could be nice music to somebody else's ears. I think you'd be better off finding that out on your own. I, personally, don't like either. But that's just me.

 

Oook so the headlight issue is fixed. I got the car inspected and I got two trouble codes p0455 and p1800 any ideas as to what could be the cause .

 

Okay, before buying a new radiator altogether I figured I'd come here and ask a question.

My coolant goes from max to just below where the hose connects to the coolant tank (within the course of a day), so to me this is saying that there isn't a leak in my tank but perhaps somewhere along the lines of my hoses / radiator. I do have the leak signs with coolant sprayed all over the engine bay so I was going with the idea that my radiator has just gone bad. I removed my radiator cap and there's still antifreeze inside of that, which is odd to me because I've simply been putting water in my coolant tank to save money.

So my questions are.. Can it be my radiator leaking if the coolant is still sitting in the area under my cap? And how can I check if the hose(s) are bad, to possibly avoid changing my radiator if its not needed.

 

If anyone has dealt with this issue, or knows the cause I'd be grateful for the advice or assistance

 

What is the torque spec for the bolts that go on the caliper mounting bracket? I have read that is it is 53-72 ft-lbf, but my Nissan Service Manual says 102-122 ft-lbf which is way too much. I cross reference 2 service manuals and they says the same things.

Looking at it, 53-72 ft-lbf makes more sense.

Anyone?

 

P0455 is a large EVAP leak, first place to check is make sure the gas cap is installed correctly and tight. If that's not it, a visual inspection of the whole EVAP system is in order, looking for nipples broken off of solenoids, torn hoses, etc.

P1800 is for the VIAS control solenoid/valve, on the intake manifold. It's the valve next to the vacuum canister that opens/closes the VIAS butterfly. You'll want to do the basics like checking for power and ground at the solenoid and checking for a click and a change in vacuum operation when manually activated.

Yes, it's possible for the radiator to be leaking even though it's full. But since you don't have any physical signs of a bad radiator, you really need to pressure test the system and pinpoint the leak. Most any shop can do this, or you can usually rent/buy a pressure tester at an auto parts store. Harbor Freight also has a kit for ~$60ish, which works decently enough.

No reason to bump your question after barely more than an hour. This is a forum, not a chat room.

The 53-72 ft/lb spec is for the A32 front torque member bolts, not the A33. 102-122 ft/lb is correct for the A33 (you've neglected to mention your model year or even fill out your profile, but I'll assume A33 fronts based on your numbers, as the A33B fronts are spec'ed at 106-126).

The torque member bolts are 14mm (IIRC), which can easily handle the specified torque.

 

Pmohr,

I have 2000 Max SE 5 Sp, so yes it is A33 chassis. Thank you for clarification, a lot of people here ran 53-72 ft/lb. I will go with 102-122 ft-lbf, maybe call Nissan Dealer tomorrow just to make sure.

Thanks again

 

Note that the dealer will go right from the FSM as well.

The wheel studs are 12mm, and will handle ~100 ft/lbs without issue; a 14mm bolt will go much higher. Unlike a lot of other places in the car, the bolts are threading into a steel torque member, not an aluminum piece.

Honestly, the exact torque spec isn't critical; tight is just fine. Most anything short of finger tight will hold in place without backing out.

 

Thank you pmohr.

Another question. When changing the MAF, is it best to change the housing as well as the sensor or will simply changing the sensors do the job?

 

Confirmed this morning. Thanks.

 

You can change just the sensor, no real need to change out the housing unless you don't have the proper torx bit or the housing is very dirty, or has sustained damage of some sort.

 

Ok so when I turn on my lights both low beams illuminate but after about 5 seconds my driver side bulb turns a shade of purple for 2 seconds and then completely shuts off. This basically happens every time I turn my lights on. This is just a bulb issue or would this be a ballast issue? Thanks.

 

01 I30 radiator will work on a 02 max right??

 

Yes - same thing. Why are you asking in this thread?

 

does anyone know what kind of bulb is for the doors controls and the ac controls for 2002 maxima? if so can someone pm me please thank you. my ac controls are manual and not digital thank you

 

I have a very important question! someone please help! I ordered both LCA's today from napa. They had napa brand, and another cheaper brand called ultra-8. The guy as the store swore up and down that the ultra-8 were of equal quality to the more expensive option. Has anybody ever used this brand? I would like to hear any feedback that anyone has on this brand!!! Thanks in advance! Hope to get some replies asap as I am planning on replacing them on thursday.

 

I have a question about some Konig Afterburners.
About how far would the 19x8's with a +30 offset stick out from the fender wells on my 2002 SE?

 

I have a 2001 Maxima SE and I always recharge the AC myself. Last time I did it refrigerant started leaking out of the low-sid epressure valve. The pin inside the valve had somehow become stuck and bent. I got a screwdriver to move it clsoed again but now I need to recharge and I know that it won't work right or that if I try I will probably make the valve worse. I have no idea how to replace it or what it would entail> I have heard about the valve maybe being called a scrader valve. Is this accurate? Please help!

 

You are correct as to the name, but it is spelled Schrader, after its inventer, August Schrader, a German back in the mid 1800's. It was originally invented for keeping air in tires and is still used in bicycles and car tires. The one used in the a/c line is physically bigger, but works the same.

The valves screw into the tube that it is in. Take the plastic cap off and you will see the threads. But if you take the Schrader valve out, you will lose all your R134, so you nedd to have the a/c system evacuated (all the R134 sucked out) before you change the valve. So unless you have all the tools for servicing a/c, you're gonna have to have a shop replace the Schrader valve.

 

Hi folks, could use some help here!!

I have a 1995 Maxima that has developed a problem after running sea foam through it. A couple of days after, it stopped running past 1800 RPM, just like it had a rev limiter or something. I disconnected the TPS and it revved & runs fine, but now idles too high (1800 rpm in gear, 1100 in neutral). I replaced the knock sensor, TPS (TWICE), air boot, and cleaned both the IACV and MAF sensor to no avail. I also tried the ECU reset/throttle learning technique. Any ideas? Thx a bunch..... :-)

 

I'm looking into swapping my 00 front bumper for a 02 one so I figured I'd go ahead and get the 02 headlights as well. My question is, are the 02 headlights already HID ready or do I need to buy a conversion kit for them?

 

Minor point, but you recover the refrigerant from the system, not evacuate.

There are some tools out there to allow replacement of the schraders without discharging the system, relatively cheap IIRC (~$50).

Youtube vid of one, not for R134a though - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ibi2...layer_embedded

Wrong subforum, this is for the 5th/5.5 gen (00-03).

When you are replacing the TPS, are you sure you're properly adjusting it? Can you read the TPS percentage from the ECU when it's hitting this limiter?

Also, if it's idling too high with the TPS unplugged, adjust the IACV; it should be right at spec with the TPS unplugged, that's the first step in properly setting the idle.

What do you mean 'HID ready'? All 02-03s had HIDs factory. You won't be able to plug them right up, but they are HIDs.

 

Hi everyone. I have a 2k2 SE and the sunroof recently started acting up. For example, when I go to vent it, I have to hit the button 4-5 times before it moves. Also, It has opened part way on it's own and if I have it completely open and slide the lever fully closed, it closes halfway and stops. Any tips on a fix or shedding light on the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!