can it be because he put the 04 maxima brakes (rotors) in the front or because he needs new rotors in the rear?

 

help anyone

 

Cold start? Warm start? Both? Any codes?

 

no codes, i realized it at a warm start. but the owner said it comes on and off

 

The codes or the starting problem come on and off?

 

it starts fine cold and you can drive it for a little while before it dies. Than it has trouble starting backup. The service engine soon light came on today but it's to late to go anywhere and get the codes checked

 

the owner said that the abs light comes on and off but it was on when i saw the car

 

Get the code checked and report back.

 

I fixed the speedo/odometer - ABS actuator was bad. I still need to replace the IVT solenoids...

 

well I am planing on swaping from a automatic tranny to a 6 speed standard tranny on my 5.5 gen maxima it has a vq 3.5 I was wondering if anyone else here has done this swap and familiar with it and could give me some tips on any special parts I will need to make it fit besides the clutch slave cylender fly wheel, and what tasks pose a more difficult challenge, I am unsure what I what is needed for the shifter linkage, is the tcm and ecm one unit or is it two units wiring harness ext. thanks for any advice, also I posted befor about what is the optimam offset for aftermarket wheels that will allow for the wheels to tuck in just a bit. thanks for any help/advice.

 

^^ It's possible, plenty have done it. Read up in the all-motor section.

 

Can anyone tell me where the camshaft position sensor is bank 1. The code I got on my car is P0340 2000 maxima by the way

 

Any ideas?

 

hello anyone

 

^^ Give people more than 3 hours to respond.

 

thanks for the "head on straight" bit...lol....actually I had the shop foreman where I work do the replacement of it...I saw the old part, looked just fine....but I do not know if he did any kind of relearn process.??? For what its worth, the dealer confirmed with me that the engine motor mounts are fine, and the ECU is fine....so they are confident that the MAF, coils and injector flush will do the trick after the relearn....I am having them also do a fuel pump filter change for about $100 and a throttle body cleaning for $100. I had the two little gaskets for the TB and cleaner, just never got around to it, same as fuel filter, had the filter, never got a chance to do it, so I figured get them to do it and its all done....total bill will be around $3500, and it it clears the problem, I am somewhat ok with it, but I truly beleive that it will come back, as it always does.....read this link, and you see that shortly after all this work is done, problem comes back....

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/nis...mments/page-4/

 

Holy. You're OK with a $3500 repair bill?! You can buy an entire 5th gen Maxima for that much.

 

Nope, not ok at all with it...the car is in great shape otherwise (other than running properly) but I agree, I am basically trying to get it back to running good, so that maybe I have a hope in selling it. Can't sell it when it doesn't keep idling...

When I made the decision to go to dealer, I knew i would be hooped, but after trying everything myself that I am capable of, there was not much I could do....its a shame really...a car of the Maxima's status, now being talked of in the same light as a old Chev cavalier or or something (no offence to the cav...)


When my BIL ( a car guy) bought it new in 2000, he test drove everything at the time and for the same general price range....The Maxima won over all else....unfortuantely, it hasn't stood the test of time well....although he does tell me that his G35 that he bought when I bought his MAx has been flawless. I bought a TL when he bought the max back in 2000....I have never spent a dime on the TL other than Oil changes, and fuel...and recently tires....the Max was bought to be our second car. Sadly, I am now paying to get it fixed to likely sell....a total loss so to speak...

 

Hey guys I'm new here. I want to ask you guys if the mechanic screwed me over.

I had the check engine light on and the mechanic scanned it and it turned out to be an oxygen sensor. He told me $125 for the part and $75 for labour ($200). I agreed and so he started work on it. He showed me that it had rust in the thread and it came from the place you unscrew it from (i am sorry i dont know the exact name of it). So he said he can't just put the new one there because it required more work. I waited in the waiting room and after 2 hours he came and gave me my keys and said he has to charge me $100 extra for the additional work. I didn't have$300 so i only gave him $240. He said I can give him the rest some other time.

Driving away from there I was thinking things through. $125 for the part, and $150(2 x $75 for 2 hours of labour) that's $275. So i called him to explain the cost breakdown for me. He mumbled a few things but wasn't very clear. He said when i come in he's gonna explain it to me.

$150 to install a ****ing oxygen sensor??

 

Hello.
Do our 5th gen maximas have a power steering fluid filter somewhere? Ive replace my pump and i still get the infamous whine even though i bled the system according to the manual and used the correct fluid... No leaks anywhere either... Maybe its the dirty filter...

 

there is no power steering fluid filter, my best guess without looking at the car is that either youre power steering high pressure hose which comes up around the passenger side strut tower is leaking fluid thus getting air in to the system, or you are not purging the system of air correctly, if youre resevoir is full try turning the steering wheel all the way to the left till it stops then do the same to the right about 8-10 times that should remove most the air from the system. some people may recomend to have the front end raised up while doing this but it is not necessary

 

well I dont think he screwed you the oxygen sensor is scred either in the exhaust manifold or after the cat depending on which sensor was replaced, and in many vehicles the oxygen sensor thread hole can get rusted exessivly and when the mechanic goes to remove the oxygen sensor it ruins the threads on the mounting area. He would then have to repair the threads, and if you take into consideration the amouint of money those tools cost then you realy dident pay too much. He could have told you that it was not repairable and sold you a new exhaust manifold then you would be out $800

 

cam shaft sensor is going to be on the valve cover somwhere on the rear of the engine. is it a 3.5 or 3.0 engine?

 

"some people may recomend to have the front end raised up while doing this but it is not necessary"

That's how i bled the system. Says in the manual there is a filter for 01. Il look under the car tomorrow see if i find traces of fluid anywhere. Maybe the pump is faulty...

 

Some of the people who recommend raising the front wheels off of the ground include Nissan. The FSM procedure is to have the engine off and "quickly turn steering wheel fully to right and left and lightly touch steering stoppers. Repeat steering wheel operation until fluid level no longer decreases (in the reservoir)." With the wheels on the ground, the "quickly" part can't be done.

 

So do you think the amount he is charging me for the labor is fair?

 

Hi Guys, so I bought my MAF on line, as it was better to spend $100 instead of the $800 from the dealer. I have to install it myself because they wont install a customer supplied part, even though it is genuine Nissan. I saw this on a different Nissan forum, and now I am confused however....it is saying that a "thermistor" needs to be removed from the existing MAF and put on the new MAF. Can someone clarify this for me...as the other forum was dated, and and got no recent hits. the part I bought is the 226802Y001....and here is a link to pictures of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=648035340010


This is what I quoted from the other forum:

Absolutely right, but let me just clarify something for everyone...

There are different types of MAFs available out there:

For the 2k and 2k1 there are 2 MAF's available:
22680AD201 $400
226802Y001 $90 (or in your case, $75)

For the 2k2 there are 2 MAF's available:
226806N201 $400
22680-AM600 $400

For the 2k3 there is only one:
22680-AM600 $400

The $90 226802Y001 has proven to be one of the more robust makes (along with the AM600), and this can also be used on 2k2 and 2k3 Maximas but the IAT thermistor from the existing MAF must be moved to the 226802Y001 MAF as well. The 2k and 2k1s have a separate IAT plug somewhere so the MAF does not have this, while the 2k2 and 2k3s have the IAT sensor in the MAF itself. You can use the 226802Y001 in a 2k2 or 2k3 w/o the sensor but it will throw a CEL

 

Call Dave Burnette at 512-444-1400. He's the parts manager at a Nissan dealership in TX. He helps out a LOT of org members, and I order parts from him weekly. He'll help you with explanation/difference in part #'s.

 

As mentioned earlier, my check engine light was not on when it should have been. I am looking at taking out the guage cluster, and replacing the bulb for it. Is it labeled on the back of the cluster which one it is? My Maxima does not have traction control. Does the factory just not install this bulb on the back of the cluster? I dont want to accidentally put in the bulb for the traction control light when my car doesnt have it. Is pulling the cluster a pain?

 

The check engine bulb is NOT one the factory could possibly leave out and legally sell the car in the USA. For those states/locales that have mandated emissions testing it's one of the things they check: the bulb has to light during bulb check or it's a failure and must-fix. I don't know if they'd leave out other bulbs if the car isn't equipped, but I tend to doubt it. The cost of stocking different instrument clusters just for a .5 cent bulb is crazy.

If I recall correctly, there's a how to for putting chrome trim rings on the instrument cluster gages. If you search for that then they should show how to disassemble the dash to get the cluster out.

I think you should be able to line up the gage faces to the circuit board and see where the bulb goes after you got it disassembled.

 

Thanks for your help... got a set of ramps and swapped the mounts without too many problems. The front one was thoroughly ripped; the rear one (center bolt) a total bi-otch to get to.

Before removing the crossmember I checked for rust: it appeared OK. But upon removal I saw the space between the crossmember and the radiator support was completely involved with rust. I have seen the impending doom of my Maxima. Kinda humbling.

I flaked it all away and whacked at it with my socket wrench, it's still solid. The welded nuts were still clean, rust-free and solid. What I could see up inside the hollow 'beam' showed more spotty, flaky, rust. I just sprayed it all thoroughly with WD40 and reassembled.

Replacing that support is not an easy thing: I haven't the tools, facility, time, skills or desire to do that kind of work. The $1300-1500 I think it'd cost me from a shop is just not cost effective for such an old car. My question is: how long do you think I might have before the rusting will begin to cause structural problems? With 120K, the engine and tranny are solid; only recurring nightmares being the many and varied Nissan Patented CEL's. I'd like to get 3-4 more years out of it if I could.

 

Ok I think I spent a few hours looking for the answer to this but couldnt find so I'm going to ask anyway. I have been looking for a 5th gen for the past 2 weeks but keep running into either high mileage, coolant leaks or bad body work repairs. Mileage wise, what is "too high"

 

hahh!

that depends way too much... well maintained, the engines seem to be good for 200K plus... transmissions nearly as long if not used for racing or other hard driving.

But emissions controls and engine management parts aren't good beyond 100K: it's been a constant battle since, really, about 60K for me with CEL's for those things, and it seems pretty consistent across Maxima's. Wouldn't be so much a problem if diagnosis and repair could be reliable; but taking it to a mechanic is a crap shoot at 300-500 a pop. You've got to be able to do some of that work yourself, and spend time on forums (like the Org) to learn what other's experiences have been like!

Also, comfort or luxury items and accessories: electronic motor mounts, power seats and windows, Bose sound systems, etc, all seem to fail very early and often.

The car does rust... I'm not sure if it's especially worse than norms, but you'll notice it in rust belt, states that salt roads heavily in winter. If you get a midwest or southwest max you should avoid that problem.

The good thing is, you can buy two or three high-mileage 5th gens, each with something different bad, and part out two to make one fairly good one!

 

From the sales point of view, 12 - 15K miles a year is considered average.

 

OK I am trying to take off my upper intake manifold on my 2000 nissan maxima SE auto. I have taken off all of the support bolts in the back but it still feels like it is getting stuck somewhere in the back and I cannot remove the intake manifold. Anybody have any suggestions what this might be that is getting stuck?

 

I am stuck I think it may be the EGR valve tube but I do not have very clear instructions on how to remove it from the manifold. Is there a write up with pictures for the 2000 nissan maxima upper intake removal. All I see is 4th gen and 2002.

 

You should arm yourself with a copy of FSM. I'm assuming there's some instructions and/or diagrams there describing the process. I wonder why are you removing the IM. I hope is not just to replace the rear spark plugs.

 

Sorry I am removing it to replace my upper intake manifold gasket. I have a copy of the FSM and unfortunately it just has a diagram of the upper intake manifold and components and not an actual removal procedure, I appreciate your quick response to my question but I am just getting hung up somewhere.

 

Got it. Hopefully a knowledgeable org member with that kind of experience will chime in. I haven't gone that far yet.

 

I hope so too I have looked at many of post on this maxima.org forum but have yet to find out what the heck I am doing wrong. Obviously I am not as skilled as I thought I was but wanted to get my cold start problem under wraps or at least have that gasket changed to rule out that possibility.