RLDWV2003

OK, the video (with audio) is posted:
http://youtu.be/_efy4n0fBAQ

Spielberg and Lucas can rest easy, given the quality of this production.
It runs for about 5 minutes so you can hear it when it starts up and after it's gotten a little warm. I do hear a knocking at the end, but whether or not that means imminent death is up in the air. Let me know what you think.

Also, I just let the engine idle - I never tried revving it. Wasn't sure if that would have helped or not.

Bob

RLDWV2003

I was just quoted $2500 for the R&R by the shop that has the car. I must look like I have money falling out of my pockets.

At least I have a baseline ;-)

vq30Maximus

so i have a 2001 nissan maxima 5 speed and have a few questions havent been able to solve. well what kind of swap can i do to it, or mods. where can i find a 5 speed or even 6 speed tranny. ive been on hondas and know them real well but love nissan so much better. ive owned two hard bodys , g20, 94 maxima and loved em. im looking to do a 3.5 6 speed but dont know where to start

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

First thing, sounds like the bearing in the tensioner pulley is close to failure. Possibly another belt driven accessory, but the tensioner pulley is the most likely culprit.

That knocking sound at the end does indeed sound like an intermittent rod knock, but it could also be something as simple as a loose engine cover rattling against the engine (one thing that sucks about trying to diagnose noises over video).

If you rev it up, does the noise change similar to this ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfJIpiQZtR4 ) ?

ivokanivo32

...

ivokanivo32

Need help. Replaced camshaft sensor a after getting p0304 reading , it ran somewhat better I got my low end power back but still hickupps . Should I reset ecu

DOODOOCHIP

any members on here live in Mississauga

RLDWV2003

I'll check. What do you think my chances are of it making the 8 miles to my house?

VQP0WER

Sell the car and get a 3.5 6 spd. It will be the only economical way.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone embroidered "maxima" on the remaining floor mats without it?

maxmaxi

i have a 2000 nissan maxima with 206,000 miles...i had the car for 2 years i love my car...today i go and start the car and im getting a backfire from the intake and the car is not starting up...i tow the car to the shop and found out the computer is blown so i got a computer had it programed and still have the backfirer,.,need help dont know wut to do...I LOVE MY MAXIMA.....

candt

Anyone have any ideas other than the coil packs? It does this every time I start the car when its been sitting for a while, such as overnight, or after work. And when I first go to drive it, it will hesitate a little for probably 5 seconds then all is good. Is it possible its the MAF? I did try to remove the MAF and clean it, but I was unable to get it out. I was rotating it in its housing to try to free it, but its simply too tight. Not sure if this would make a difference.

I recently replaced all 6 spark plugs with NGK's, and 4 of the coil packs are new. The other two are not original, but Im not sure how old they are. They do have a grey dot on them, if that makes a difference.

allornothing

Are there any issues with putting an auto-start in the max's. I have a 01 gxe and don't want to cause any issues with the electronics.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

No, as long as the person installing it knows what they are doing. I've had an auto start for over 7 years in my 2k.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like the IAC valve is your root problem. When the IAC valve goes, o-ring leaks, the coolant can short out the wiring and end up shorting your ECU. You can't just "reprogram" the ECU. You either have to send it to someone to repair or replace the ECU.

Do a search for IACV and you'll have plenty of results to sift through which will ultimately lead to your answer.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

What year is your Max? If you have a 2k or 2k1 you have two camshaft sensors. I think the 2k2 and 2k3 went to one sensor.

If you have two sensors you may need to replace the other one too. It wouldn't hurt to reset the ECU...try it first as that is free!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

It could be your IAC valve as well.

To remove the MAF sensor you need a special tool which you can get from an auto parts store. It is a special torx bit.

When was the last time you replaced your MAF sensor? It may be time to replace it. I've seen most guys on here replace it anywhere from every 50K miles to 100K miles.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No. The VQ30 has always had just one cam sensor, on the timing cover. The VQ35 has one per bank, on the back of each head.

MustangSlayer

I have a 2000 Maxima SE. 123K Miles. There is a weird sound coming from the engine bay right near the intake manifold. After about 10 seconds of the car being on it turns on and about 10 seconds of the car being off it turns off. I took it to my mechanic and he said it could be the solenoid on the driver side of the manifold! When i lookedd at the diagram under the hood of the intake manifold it shows that it could be the SCV One Way Valve or the SCV Control Solenoid(Swirl Control Valve). The noise sounds like a whistle when its on and it is so annoying. Any help on if that it the part I need to buy? and my mechanic said you can't actually buy the part, i need to go to a junk yard and get one. Help Pleaseee. Any help is appreciated! Thank you all!

candt

I have the torx bit to remove the two screws holding the MAF in, but it is in there so tight, I wasnt able to remove it from its housing. Any tricks to this? I have owned the car for roughly two months, so Im not sure how old the MAF is, or if it has ever been replaced. Car has 186K on it. I will also look into the IACV. Not sure what this is, or where it is. Thanks.

DOODOOCHIP

hey guys i just painted my headlights and gonna put them back in the oven, should i use extra glue to put them back together or the original one should still hold it?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Probably best, if you have the $100 (may be less?), to replace the MAF unit. Call up Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan and let him know you are a Max.org member. He will get you a fair price, but you'll pay for shipping unless you are in Texas near South Point Nissan. If you do a search for Dave Burnette South Point Nissan on here you'll get his number.

The IAC valve is your idle air control valve and it located right at the throttle body.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Need more information.

1. Is the sound RPM dependent? Meaning does it get louder or quieter at certain RPM range?

2. Does the sound come on or shut off at certain RPM?

If it is constant and does not change it it not your swirl control valve or power valve, whatever you want to call it. It would be a bad vacuum leak somewhere. Do you notice a loss of power at all through the RPM range?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

You are right, my bad. I was thinking of the crankshaft position sensor on the 2k and 2k1.

Thanks.

agavrysh

Is there any sources I can read or watch to replace a head gasket. Preferably a step by step, but any help is appreciated. That would be for DOHC engine.

MsPearl217

So im new here and ive got some questions ...

I had a 97 maxima and had some squeeky noises/ and lil ratteling in the front of the car mainly from the drivers side whenever id be on a street wether it be bumpy or whatever tje car would squeek...so I sold it bc I was tired of hearing it

Now I have an 01 max same noise ...are these noises part of havin a max lol I also wanna know ppls opinions and if they experianced these noises as well ...

Thankss..

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There aren't any squeeks that are "normal". If you have one, it is a problem and can be fixed. Of course the hard part is finding it. Have you tried "bouncing" the car by pushing down on the front fender to see if that causes the noise?

arkangelgabriel

agavysh

For those people with starup probles first step i recomend change your MAF sensor even if you have change it before. its probably the cheapest first step to take. my 01 max had different symptoms when my second maf sensor went out. also i recomend getting the whole sensor and intake tube its in from the nissan (i acutally recommend getting nissan parts for everything other than spark plugs, oil, battery and stuff like that).
My max was feeling a little rougher than usual on iddle so i changed spark plugs and problem solved.
Now agavysh on the valve cover, you should change it if you see any oil deposits. i started seeing deposits on mine (around the lower edges right on top of the manifold, around the oil stick line) didnt pay attention until i checked the oil and it was low. then i notice actual oil dripping to the manifold spreading a burning oil smell. the front valve cover gasket is really easy to change.
1. remove the spark plugs cover with the right hex socket (i messed up one of the screws thats why i say it)
2. unscrew all the coil packs and put them aside. they should be tied to the valve cover by a black plastic wrap. i didnt cut mine, just worked around it.
3 If you wanna avoid confusion label your coil packs with a red sharpy. also the screws since number 2 pack (left to right) is longer.
4. remove the actual screws or bolts holding down the valve cover.
5. unplug the two hoses from the valve cover. one has a pressure clamp, the other you just have to pull it. do it carefully, i messed mine up.
6. This is the most important part, you have to MAKE sure the surface on the engine where the gasket goes its entirely and perfectly clean, otherwise it will leak. rag with some brake cleaner should do the trick. if needed get a high graded sand paper (like 1500 or more) and sand whatever didnt come off with the rag.
7. Remove the old headgasket from the valve cover and clean good the grove where the new one will go.
8. you done! put it back together. Do not over tighten the bolts or you might brake them, but get them as tight as possible.

Its the first time i do it in a max and it worked wonderful (aside from the hose i messed up lol) no leaks whatsoever. i got the rear gasket to but thats a different story...working the courage and time to spare to change the rear valve cover gasket.

agavrysh

Thanks for information, but I have milkshake instead of my oil, so I don;t think it has anything to do with MAF sensor. I need some sources to get to head gasket. Thanks

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

A few quick questions for curiosity sake. What year is your Max? Have you verified that one/both of the head gaskets are blown?(It's not that common with the VQs unless you really aren't paying attention to the car.) What is your level of mechanical aptitude? Or, what's the largest repair you've completed? Head gasket R&R is not for the faint of heart. In many cases, it may be more cost/time efficient to swap the entire engine assembly with a good engine. It would suck to get into the heads and find more wrong.

To answer your original question, everything you need to know should be found in the FSM. There are several links on nicoclub. I would link if I knew what year your car is.

agavrysh

What is FSM? I have 2000 maxima DOHC 3.0 My mechanical skills are not that great, but my dad is helping me he is pretty handy guy and changed head gaskets in past already. As of right now, I am wondering whether or not i need to take of timing chain system to get to head gasket. Thanks

VQP0WER

factory service manual. Link in my sig.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

FSM = Factory Service Manual. Yes, you must remove the timing chain. I'm sure you and your dad can do it. Just be aware that this isn't like changing head gaskets on a smallblock 350. It's time intensive. It probably will be more than a weekend repair unless you're both very motivated.

Again, have you verified that it is the head gasket? What problems led up to the current problem? Major overheating? Have you priced out new heads or machining your heads?

MsPearl217

My bf tried several times and no squeekk when you bounce it..I have done some research and many ppl have the same problem but different things ... They say its a metal thing that taps but idk what that means ...mainly when I drive I hear it the road doesnt need to be bumpy either for it to do a lil squeek I just wanna know if any one else has this problem and has fixed it its driving me insaanee

arkangelgabriel

Oh ok now u more specific. Yeah sounds like headgasket....cant help you there. Nevrr changed a headgasket myself.
And mspearl are you talking about a clunk sound on your front end or a real squeak like the ones from an old fors explorer driving down the road? cause my 01 maxima has clunking sounds from the front end. pretty sure its my tie rod ends just havent realise whether i wanna changd just the tie rods or the whole rack and pinion

arkangelgabriel

Btw have question. I changed my front valve cover gasket. wanted to change the tube seals to but the nissan said i had to get the whole valve cover cause the tube seals cant be changed. vc is around 140. however another dealer said they had the seals for like 7 bucks a piece. Im guessing the old seals must be good since spark plugs are free of oil but since im gonna change the rear valve cover gasket thats leaking id like to change the tube seals while im at it (if possible of course)

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Why would you change the rack and pinion if you think it's the tie rods? It's not difficult to put the car on jacks and get under the car and check for play in the tie rods. If you've got 'clunks' on a high mileage 5th gen, it's more likely you need motor mounts or balljoint/control arm bushings. A little inspection should prevent you from spending money on unnecessary repairs.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Tube seals are available separately for the VQ30DE-K. They may have looked up the VQ35DE. The DE-K uses 13276 31U10 or 13276 31U21(NOK or NDK) for the tube seals. Always replace these seals when doing the VC gaskets.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Since you've neglected to fill out your vehicle profile, I can't say whether or not you can change out the plug tube seals on your specific car.

That being said, the VQ30 has replaceable plug tube seals, the VQ35 seals are integrated into the valve cover.

Are you trying to replace the tube seals in the front or rear valve cover? You mention both, but no concrete information.

If VQ30, then these are all you need - http://www.courtesyparts.com/13276-s...957_1958_1962&

If VQ35, and talking about the rear valve cover, the OE A33B part is ~$140:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/13264-c...957_1958_1962&

It's much cheaper to get the A34 part, which is the same, but $100 cheaper: http://www.courtesyparts.com/13264-c...4-p-88187.html

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

He/she specified in the prior post: