Hi,
There is no bulb number for this light. I just replaced mine with a lower wattage than it calls for because they didn't have any 10 watt bulbs as the owners manual lists. I didn't go higher (14) I think it's a 7 or 8 watt I used.
Hope this helps!

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/5th...ing-codes.html

^ Hope that helps. I searched everywhere for that information, It certainly helped me figure out the mess of wires.

 

I recommend seeing if you can hook up with someone who has had these codes before and seeing what their fix was. I have an SES light and have seen a 1 mpg decrease due to a bad 02 rear fault- but it may NOT actually be the rear o2- it could be 3-4 other things. It is really a crapshoot, and no dealership or repair shop will guarantee that what they do will actually FIX the problem, unless they just replace both o2s AND the cat...

 

I'll check to see if the ballast was relocated.

 

hey guys i just changed my valve cover gaskets and after removing the intake manifold i heard a jingle inside of it it turned out to be the butterfly valve or power valve or whatever you call it and was completely off the power rod and the worst part.. the screws were gone... im guessing they got sucked into the engine... just got this car too and now im finding this out. I bought some screws that kind of fit with bolts on the other ends but i dont want it falling off again so could someone give me some advice on what to do now? maybe i should just remove it...

 

There are several ways you can prevent the screws from loosening up. You can put Locktite on the threads before you put the nuts on. Or you could use screws that extend out once everything is tightened down and then bend the end of the screw or mash the exposed threads. The downside to this last part is that you will never remove thoses screws without destroying the shaft that they are screwed into.

Another option that eliminates all headaches is to remove the valve and put a block-off plate on the manifold. We call this VIAS delete.

 

Thanks for the help! I reinstalled them using some red locktite but I do wanna try this VIAS delete (Just to prevent it from happening again). How do you find a block-off plate for it do you just have to fabricate one?? and i also heard that the engine will lose quite some low-midrange power but also gain some highrange.

 

Search for VIAS delete and you will get all the answers (and more) that you want. As for the block off plate, you can make one if you feel skilled enough or you can buy one. I think NWP sells one.

 

clock light goes off when headlights go on

 

Fair warning, new guy. But.. I have a question... My 2k Maxipad 5 speed shift **** had a layer of leather on it that ripped and tore off. Does anyone know a secret to remove the bare plastic ****? I figure that it is a simple metric lefty-loosey situation but that bugger is stubborn and i miss my leather! Any info? PM me please!

 

Yes, it should just twist off. Some of them can be stubborn though. If this is the case then you can use a strap wrench. You should be able to order a knew shift **** from the dealer (won't be cheap...$60-$70), or find a used one at a junk yard or in the classifieds here.

 

Stupid question, but did you check your dimmer dial to make sure it is all the way up?

 

@RebelHell - Thanks! A strap wrench is a great idea! I stop at the dealer because i enjoyed the stock leather.

Unfortunately im traveling for the holidays and my car is else where. Does anyone know what size thread the Shift ***** are?? i assume its either at 10 or 12 mm 1.25 thread but i would like to order one off line so i have it when i get back, ready to install. Thanks ORG!

 

[QUOTE="Danimal94;8692535"]@RebelHell - Thanks! A strap wrench is a great idea! I stop at the dealer because i enjoyed the stock leather.

Unfortunately im traveling for the holidays and my car is else where. Does anyone know what size thread the Shift ***** are?? i assume its either at 10 or 12 mm 1.25 thread but i would like to order one off line so i have it when i get back, ready to install. Thanks ORG!

EDIT: Just got my lazy *** to google it, the shift ***** are a 10x1.25 thread!

 

From what I have read, this recall has put a dent in the theft of the 5.5 gen headlights. I woudl check to be sure that the headlight recall was performed before I got too confident, however.

 

Its not the dimmer switch

 

I'm BRAND NEW HERE.. I have a 2000 Max that drives like crap.. I have no acceleration and a miss.. I cleaned MAF sensor.. I know the miss has nothing to do with the acceleration problems because the miss was fixed before with the same recurring acceleration issue.. The best description I can give is that the car has no response when pressing the pedal.. Its like trying to drink an extremely thick milkshake through a straw.. And I have no CEL showing up.. Took it to a muffler shop they said I need to solve the miss issue before he looks at the cc.. Any reason the CEL not coming on? Help Please!

 

CEL light may be burned out or wires cut. Or...sometimes you won't get a CEL for an issue. Do you see the CEL light up when you turn on the car? It should light up for a few seconds as part of the test. If it doesn't light up then you have an issue with your CEL light.

Have the ECU scanned anyways and see what codes may be present anyways.

Your problem definitely sounds like a MAF issue. They have been known to go out on these cars. The miss is also likely related to an ignition coil which are known to be problematic as well.

Scan for codes first and see what comes up. If nothing comes up buy ONE front and ONE rear OEM ignition coil to switch out until misfire problem goes away. Make sure you go OEM on the ignition coil otherwise you will run into the same issue sometime very soon after replacing.

On the MAF you can buy the sensor separately and change it out instead of the entire assembly which should save you some money.

 

Ok got a question. pertains to my steering wheel. When my wheels are straight the steering wheel is cocked to the left a little. any ideas. Car drives straight as an arrow so i ruled out alignment

 

Your alignment is off. Steer ahead is a part of toe adjustment.

 

Ill go get it re aligned to see if that clears it up.

 

Hello my gauge lights and lights for the temp control are out. I checked all the fuses and have run into a dead end im told it may be the dimmer switch. please help.

 

I have just recently purchased a 2000 nissan maxima SE with 106,000k. The car needs a new wheel bearing, and a new tie rod which i can do easily. Other than that i have a concern about purchasing the key fob online since mine did not come with one. The factory alarm (security) light is not on and does not blink like it is supposed to. I found a switch on the dash that the previous owner had hooked up but that also does not light up anymore. I havent had a chance to trace the wires back to where they go yet but im assuming that since the security light isnt on anymore they may have disabled the alarm and installed a seperate (aftermarket) alarm. does anyone have any input on this situation? i would love to have a key fob instead of having to manually unlock/lock everything.

 

Do your tail lights work? If not, check the fuse panel under the hood. There is a fuse block tucked between the battery and front fender. The dashlights and taillights are on the same fuse. I'm not sure about the temperature control. It could be a second fuse or something else. But check the fuses under the hood.

 

Double check the 7.5A fuse labeled "INT ILL" or something to that effect, in the fuse panel left of the steering wheel. If you have no gauge backlighting and no climate control backlighting, this fuse could be your issue.

Also yes, check to make sure the dimmer switch is all the way up...it's happened before

Did they just go out all at once? Have you done any electrical work to the car?

 

Hi bros
I have a stupid question lol, the windshield of the maxima 2000 is the same of the I30 2000?

 

Yes.

 

Hey guys, I have a few questions regarding HID lights and the turnsignals. My turn signal indicators in my car are blinking rapidly, i was told it means you may need a new fuse or bulbs. Is this accurate? Also, I'm looking to buy HID kits for my fogs and headlights. For my headlights, I was going to get the hi/lo ones from DDM, but the problem is, im not sure if i should install them. I have the stock housing and want 8000k. I also have a sound system (2 12'' typeRs with a 1300watt amp), my headlights flicker with the bass drops as it is, would it be worse with HIDs? Or do they use less power than normal lights? Thanks in advance. All help appreciated.

 

The turn signal problem cannot be a fuse, that would make the turn signals inoperative. A burned out bulb would normally make the signals blink slow. Fast blinking means that you have more electricity flowing through the blinker than it was designed for. Did you add any additional lamps into the turnsignal circuit? Or did you swap the bulbs for a brighter bulb?

Don't know about your HID questions.

 

*Newbie update:
I have had my used Maxima 2001 SE for about 8 weeks. 5 of these weeks the car has been under warranty repairs in the shop. I am suffering from SES syndrome where after repairs it comes on pretty quick with a new issue. After the ECM was replaced I couldn't get the OBD code out from Autozone. They read it at the shop and they told me it was a minor evap code and they cleared it and told me to drive it and if it came back to come in. Well it did very quickly and I was able to check it myself.
P0420 P0325. They took it back and told me it was looking like Catalytic Converter.
Then...The ordered the wrong parts.
Here is where it gets dicey, they had the car about 2 weeks here during the holiday and while waiting for the parts they {on advice of their Nissan guy} decided to clean out the system. They stated that they ran 3 oz seafoam to a 1/4 tank fuel and "drove the **** out of it" for 150 miles and gave it back to me.The idiot who is the mechanic told me to stay off google... When it hit 160.4 mi on the trip the light came on. So they are taking it back now again.
Any advice guys? I have to let hem repair the car I can't take it anywhere but there until the warranty ends, I would but I don't have the money. I am thinking instead of dropping it off I will stay with the car this time. They still have not produced any repair records from the ECM/Throttle sensor repair. Ugh I'm going to mark the parts from now on to ensure they are being changed for one.
**Just checked the oil and it is very thin as well as slightly over the full line. It looks very clean (oil change 190 miles ago} but it's about 20 degrees here and it's dripping from the stick, not normal IMO.

 

I recently purchased 2003 Max, and I am currently having a knocking noise while going over bumps etc. I believe it is the upper strut mounts but haven't had it on a lift yet. Have any of you experienced this? It really feels like something is loose in the front end. I am going to check out the sway bar also. At lower speeds it is more noticeble, but at higher speeds I feel the vibration/ knock while going over bumps, but you can't hear it. Lemme know your thoughts if any. Thanks

 

I am running 2003 Max and at idle only after the vehicle is warmed up it has a miss/shake in the motor. It isn't bad but enough to notice especially when in drive or reverse. If I am in park the idle is a hair higher then in gear. The vehicle pulls very strong while accelerating, but has an annoying miss while sitting at the lights, etc.... I have not done plugs yet, but I am going too and fuel filter. Vehicle has 106,000 miles. Again runs very strong when on gas, but missing when not on gas at low rpm at idle. Also what rpms/idle due you guys have her set at?

 

Bro, before anyone else starts getting angry at you... there's a ton of threads on this subject. You're gonna have to do some searching. Belieeeeve me, all the answers you're looking for are there. Check out the stickies. On another note, congrats on your 5th gen, and welcome!

 

I just had that problem on my 03 with 103,000. I replaced my plugs, it helped a little but it would still do it at lights and at a stop like you just not as often. I replaced my MAF too but it didnt help... $420 later even with my dealer discount. ( i work at a nissan dealer) So it came down to ignition coils. I just bought one and switched it around until the missfire was gone. So if your plugs don't work, do coils next. Do you have a CEL on with a P0300?

 

Yes, check the FSM.

 

Thanks for the info. I was thinking possibly coils. Very strange only at idle and not under load. But I have witnessed a bad cool on my bike before that the dealer couldn't figure out but I was able too with a beer in my garage. Lol. No codes or lights on right now. I will ohm the coils when I have the time and replace as needed. Thank you buddy.

 

Thx bro I appreciate that. This forum isn't easy to get used too and I don't worry about people getting angry. They can help by copying and pasting the thread. Lol. I have had plenty of forum experiences with the angry people. Nah just playing not trying to **** anyone off. But I appreciate you my man and will search threw the forum to see what I find. I am confused about the stickies and threads on a for real note. Thanks again on the congrats. Clear did markers just got installed and changed the game.

 

Kool man, kool... yeah, when I got my clear tailights it was like a whole new car! Lol!
Yeah, sometimes it's frustrating going through all the posts to find answers, but using the "search" makes it a bit easier. If I could post links, I would, but all I have is my phone... for now anyways...
The thing is that your present issue has several different possibilities (about 4 ir more) that gave to be looked at. Type in "clunking", or "struts".

 

Yeah I had changed the sides to clear on my old max which was dark grey, but I wasn't sure how the look would be on a lighter cooler. But it turned out to be a good look. Also I know what you mean about changing the look and I did a search and o yeah a ton are out there. Thx again for your help bro.

 

That was exactly my problem, I'd start with plugs before coils because coils can get real expensive real quick. And for the coils, go to the dealership for them, any aftermarket ones are junk and will fail after a few months. Where are you located? if your nearby i could help you out