Im sorry i didnt about the profile...ill get to it soon. i got 01 max 3.0 guess that makes it VQDE. i got 185 k miles on it. asidd from the front end noise and rear vc leak car is in excelent condition. Ill be more clear. i recently change front vc since it wasleaking to. however i didnt change the tube seals because what i mentioned. plus they didnt have the seals for 7 bucks in stock. they woulda have to order them. i dont work as a mechanic but i do have good mechanical knodledge. however before i venture to change the rear vc id like to have everything ( even new bolts). I guess ill reopen front vc to change tube seals sknce front vc is piece of cake.
About the front end....well ihad front end problems on my previous car (sentra). I checked it and tie rod ends and the boot on the outers is broke and wore out. too much play on them moving by hand althou the tires themselves have little to no play. everthing else in the front end looks good and tight. i mentioned rack and pinion cause itll cause me aroind 500 in partz for both inner and outter tie rods. so it might be cheaper to change rack and pinion and more convinient before it startz leaking

 

Where are you buying the tie rods at 500 dollars??? Also, I've seen r&p's sold with inners, but where are you finding it with outers? Keep in mind the huge labor difference, too.

 

Ah, didn't see that in there. Regardless, there's no need to make people search through your posts to find information that's easily set in your profile, or at least in the very post in which you're asking the question.

 

Why not just buy a valve cover gasket set? The FelPro kits are pretty nice, and include the plug tube seals as well. ~$60 at most auto parts stores, IIRC.

And why new valve cover bolts? Unless they're physically damaged (rounding off the head, breaking the bolt) there is no need to be replacing them.

 

Even OE parts from courtesy comes up to a little under $350 for both outers and inners, so it's possible they're including labor in that price, and using aftermarket parts. Still seems a bit high, though.

 

QFT

 

True, but arkangelgabriel specified parts:

I do agree with your statement in the previous post. There are some things that are on par or better than OEM. I believe a decent set of VC gaskets and Moog tierods fall under this category.

 

Indeed...well, I guess it wouldn't be the first time that Courtesy has come quite a bit under a normal dealer's pricing. Still, that's insane, given how a reman rack comes in a little over half that price (aftermarket, but still...).

 

Yeah my main concern is knowing for sure if the tube seals are changeable.

 

Yes, they are (on the VQ30).

 

i am in need of oppinions about factory hid lights in a 2003 max se. the drivers side light started going dim on me so i got myself a new pair of 8000k's. installed both properly, and the left side turned on but flickered out a few secs later. swapped it to the right side and same thing.. so i thought bad bulb. i put in the non fading old bulb in the left side till i can get the new one replaced. now this is where it got interesting. the bright bulb immediately started going dull pink like the original one had. i again swapped it and it was nice and bright again. so now my attention is the drivers side ballast.

would i be correct to assume that the ballast has gone bad?

i tried to get to the ballast to see if i could run some multimeter tests on it, and i could not get all the way to it or even remove the headlight housing. is there an easier way to replace it than to tear apart the entire front end of the car?

 

Thank you pmor. yeah that guy at that nissan dealer is full of it. ill post about it once ive done all the work inckuding front end.
And about the headlights on that 03 could be a harness problem. first thing take a test light and check if you getting same juice in all the prones of the harness. i once had z problem like that on a 85 stanza and i trancex it all thr way back to the staring wheel

 

since i was trying to start with direct connection (without use of relay), engine control fuse was blown out, he replace with new out and attached the relay, it started.

 

So I tried bounceing the car today surprisingly theres a squeeekk my mistake shouldve tried it before replying ...

 

Why has no one considered a turbo in the open space under the battery box. With a dsm side mount would eliminate alot of piping i would assume. Or has this been accomplished on the 5.5 gen?

 

I haven't verified if its head gasket, but I figured that I will take heads to get resurfaced anyways, and I guess we'll see problems that are there. I noticed that it starts to overheat, but not all they way up to "H" I stopped and noticed a little bit of white cream stuff on the back of oil cap, but nothing on oil stick. Coolant was low, so I added some water. For a week or so I continued driving, and adding water. I started to notice that I have to add water more often. Also sometimes the car's engine would stop on light stops, so I have to start the car again. Then one time it just stopped and I couldn't start it. When I opened the hood, I immediately noticed milkshake around the cap, and on oil stick.

 

i think i had read somewhere of someone putting a turbo on a 5.5. not sure if on that spot thou.

and agravysh thats kinda odd...but it does sound like headgasket. there might be just a little water getting inside the engine, enough to spinkle to the top and form that milky substance around the oil cap. one good way to find out if indead you getting water in the oil is pull out your oil mesuring stick and leave it hanging so you can see the oil drop. if it drops to fast or looks to thin then yeah theres water mixing there. Also check good your engine from the bottom while running to see if you have a water leak somewhere, might be separate events.

 

thats odd ms pearl. aside from the clunk noise from my front end my car is very quiet and no squeaks. Oh and pmohr thanks for the info man i really apreciated it. just added my car to my garage to

 

yeah its annoying as well lol i hate to hear such an irritating noise comin from my car i meann comeeonnn it ruins mmy whole mood hahah ...and aside from al the different things i hear that it can be from is quite confusing ... plus theirs youtube videos that show ppl with the same issue...

 

i dont have a code

 

So this is kind of a big question to ask but i want to know the best and easiest way to install a supercharger on a 02 3.5 SE.

 

Yay, I get to play.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tphrY18Q-2Y

2000 Nissan Maxima - 145k Miles

Won't engage gears
When put into park, makes the grinding noise
CV/Axles were replaced 2 months ago - some leaking from the transaxle seal.
Fluids "look" okay, and I retopped off.
When going from N > D and N > R the engine's RPM's react as they would.
No notable toe out/in (Axle/CV)
Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (adjustment ? huh?)
MPH increase with throttle when "in gear."
Haven't checked codes but was running the P1702 and that is another issue I'm trying to battle for CEL/emissions.

 

Id tell you to change the transmition speed sensor or revolution sensor. Althou that griding noise you mentioned def sounds like tranny problems. But hey give it a shot its a lot cheaper than new tranny. If u decide to change the sensor its very easy to acces. its on driver side top part of tranny u have to remove the wheel. a ten mm bolt holds it in plsce. symptoms...mine while driving it seemed as if shifted to neutral and wouldnt ho anywhere. Btw if u decide to get it do it from the nissan

 

Custom fab is your only option. Good luck.

Your most likely option is an axle that has a broken joint, or one that's just popped out. If your speedo rises but you don't move, it's between the output shaft and the wheel. The grinding noise is the parking pawl trying to stop the idler gear while it's still moving.

Put both sides up on jackstands, make sure the left axle is still fully engaged in the trans (the right side is bolted in place, it shouldn't ever move. The left side is just a circlip, so it could very well pop out if a poor quality axle, or installed improperly). While it's up, let it idle in gear, see what's moving, it should be obvious at that point. If nothing looks out of the ordinary, post up a video.

FWIW a bad axle or one that's popped out wouldn't affect toe, unless the outer joint was keeping the wheel from moving side to side.

 

When i start my car cold it starts without a problem, but if i turn it off after it fully warms up and try to start it again the car will start and rpms will drop slow and the car stalls unless i give it alittle gas to stop it from stalling. what could this be?

 

You are about on dot. I got sick of hearing everyone that is supposed to know about cars deny this and say, its the tranny, derp derp.

My final confirmation is when I was able to have the car change gears when pressing on the gas in place.

 

Just note that it's possible, though unlikely, that the splines in the diff itself have stripped out. In that case, the front cover would have to be removed to replace the diff, and given the amount of metal fragments that would be deposited throughout the trans (including every little passage in the valve body) it would be better overall to replace the entire trans to reduce the risk of future issues.

That being said, it is most likely just an axle issue.

 

Pmohr is probably right. Now that i remember same thing happened to my mother in laws altima. maybe you can take it out and make sure the groves go in right and then while holding the boot straiht tap it soft with s hammer (get s block of wood so you dont mess up the screwing end)

 

Blackhawk ive heard people having problrms like that because of a bad iddle sensor. im not sure if thats the correct name for that sensor. wish i could help more but thats all i know about that....

 

not exactly sure what you mean, but i tested the harness, it gets the same juice on both sides. checked the relays just to be sure, swapped them, and the drivers side light seems to not be as dim as it was. changed the bulb to the old bulb that was dull and its brighter than it was but not as bright as the old pass side was. bought a used ballast on ebay for 40 bucks. will install that and see what happens.

also getting a p0420, p0430, and p0011 recently. cat needs to be replaced now thats its trowing the 430 in addition to the 420 (420 has been off and on). not looking forward to that one. what should i look at first for the p0011? ivt solenoids? the actual cam sensor? im at a loss for this one.

 

i too need to replace my cat...and dont know anything else on the lights issue man...im also at a lost since i couldnt change my rvc gasket today. got stuck trying to remove the intake manifold. got to the point where i couldnt reach the hoses under the throtle body and didnt really know which ones to disconet anyways...after coupla hours messing with it i just had to put it back together because i needed to run an errant and had no spare car...

 

I woudl check to be sure that the headlight recall was performed before I got too confident..........

 

Will try to change my rvc again today....got more time. Hkwever if anyone can give me a little advice in how to take the intake manifold off id appriciated. Like i mentioned thr hoses under the throtle body got me stuck. Couldnt find anythjng on 3.0 engine 5th gen. I saw something for the 3.5. I thjnk i havr to unplug two hoses downthere, one u shape and another longer one.

 

Hey guys.

I have an 03 max. Need driver side tie rods, inner and outer.

I want to buy MOOG parts and they only only list one inner and one outer. However when I checked the courtesy parts diagram, they have different part numbers for the left and right.

Is there any difference between the left and right, inner and outer tie rods?

Thanks.

 

headlight recall? any more info on it? tsb or anything like that?

oh.. i made an apt at midas to have thm look at my cat issues and they think (over the phone at least) that all 3 codes could be due to a simple exhaust leak. crossing my fingers for a cheap repair

 

i too would like to know about this one. pep boys told me that i need both front inner tie rods replace as well as both front struts. (getting a second opinion tho)

 

getting codes on your cat?

 

I looked on this web site, specifying a 2003 maxima -

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...5&PageID=33432

There is no reference to a left only or a right only.

 

There are two different part codes, but as listed on there, they're both superseded to the same part number. Maybe Nissan originally stamped them L and R for some reason, hence the original difference, who knows.

Long story short, inners and outers should be the same, side to side.

Confirmed from FAST, both outers resolve to 48520-15U25 , both inners to 48521-2Y405.

 

I just bought an 03 SE today, very happy to be back in a Maxima (had a 99 SE back in 2008 which I sold). Anyway, so far this one seems perfect except the d/s power seat. When trying to make it move forward its like the right side moves but the left doesnt, I assume this is the motor. Is this an easy fix or is it easier to replace the whole seat?

Is this also a common problem? Thx in advance