5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
humming noise past 40MPH. Gonna rotate and rebalance my tires first though, then alignment.
06-13-2013, 01:00 PM
If you mean the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve, It is on the top corner of the engine by the electric throttle control actuator.
page 24 and 25 of the EC section in the FSM - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf
page 24 and 25 of the EC section in the FSM - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf
06-13-2013, 02:06 PM
Out of curiosity, what was the code you got?
06-13-2013, 07:19 PM
My scanner lists a P0440 with a generic (read useless) description of "Evaporative Emission System". Nothing for P1008.
Could you get the codes read again, with a different reader?
06-14-2013, 03:37 PM
i have a haynes repair manual, and when i looked up the codes they both lead back to evap canister or purge solenoid. one code said a possible open circuit . which im assuming maybe the switch is bad causing back flow which might be why i smell gas a bit. basically maybe its not opening. oh and i recall one time i was pumping gas and it started leaking from underneath the middle of the car. i inspected under there couldnt find a hole anywhere.
06-14-2013, 03:45 PM
i have a haynes repair manual, and when i looked up the codes they both lead back to evap canister or purge solenoid. one code said a possible open circuit . which im assuming maybe the switch is bad causing back flow which might be why i smell gas a bit. basically maybe its not opening. oh and i recall one time i was pumping gas and it started leaking from underneath the middle of the car. i inspected under there couldnt find a hole anywhere.
If you leak fuel when filling up, check the filler neck for rust or damaged hoses.
06-14-2013, 04:41 PM
As said, an '03 Maxima can't throw a P0440 or a P1008, they're not valid codes. Use a different code reader and recheck. You're seeing them in your Haynes because it covers many years and generations (is yours one of those '93-'04 books?)
If you leak fuel when filling up, check the filler neck for rust or damaged hoses.
If you leak fuel when filling up, check the filler neck for rust or damaged hoses.
ok sorry guys. i got the right codes. one is a p0455 for the saying i have a gross leak. and a p1800. which leads to the vias solenoid. oh and yeah i changed the gas cap already if anyone was going to suggest it. thanks again
oh and the leak was more towards the middle of the car. granted i dont know where the filler neck ends but i dont think thats the cause.
Last edited by jaybenice; 06-14-2013 at 04:48 PM.
06-14-2013, 08:20 PM
Damn - P0455. This one has a boat load of possibilities. From the Nissan FSM:
Possible Causes:
Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close.
Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
Incorrect fuel filler cap used
Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.
Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.
EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks
EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.
Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
Loose or disconnected rubber tube
EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve and the circuit
Fuel tank temperature sensor
O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged.
EVAP control system pressure sensor
Refueling control valve
ORVR system leaks
Because you have the gas leak, remove the rear seat bottom cushion and then remove the round access cover to the fuel tank. Go fill up the tank and see if you can see or smell a leak. The o-ring for the filter/pump/float may be leaking.
P1800 = VIAS control solenoid valve. VIAS means Variable Intake Air System. This solenoid is mounted on the intake manifold, passenger side front. This is kind of a problem. Do a search for VIAS solenoid and you will get lots of hits. Here are a few:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...nd-engine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...cuit-open.html (see photo in post 11)
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=2813350
Possible Causes:
Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close.
Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
Incorrect fuel filler cap used
Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.
Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.
EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks
EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.
Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
Loose or disconnected rubber tube
EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve and the circuit
Fuel tank temperature sensor
O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged.
EVAP control system pressure sensor
Refueling control valve
ORVR system leaks
Because you have the gas leak, remove the rear seat bottom cushion and then remove the round access cover to the fuel tank. Go fill up the tank and see if you can see or smell a leak. The o-ring for the filter/pump/float may be leaking.
P1800 = VIAS control solenoid valve. VIAS means Variable Intake Air System. This solenoid is mounted on the intake manifold, passenger side front. This is kind of a problem. Do a search for VIAS solenoid and you will get lots of hits. Here are a few:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...nd-engine.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...cuit-open.html (see photo in post 11)
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=2813350
06-14-2013, 08:57 PM
Yea I checked out the other threads. I know they said maybe some fuses could be blown which could make the solenoid not work. I just don't know what fuse to look at. I talked to a guy who's a mechanic. He said something about the valve not opening causing the gas smell. I guess because of built up pressure maybe. I'll have to investigate the gas leak. Mind u it only happend when pumping gas and it was more to the front middle of the car than near the gas tank .could built up air pressure in the hoses have caused this maybe? Thanks for the help guys
06-15-2013, 07:54 AM
Yea I checked out the other threads. I know they said maybe some fuses could be blown which could make the solenoid not work. I just don't know what fuse to look at. I talked to a guy who's a mechanic. He said something about the valve not opening causing the gas smell. I guess because of built up pressure maybe. I'll have to investigate the gas leak. Mind u it only happend when pumping gas and it was more to the front middle of the car than near the gas tank .could built up air pressure in the hoses have caused this maybe? Thanks for the help guys
I would still take the fuel tank access cover off and check. There are lines coming out of the top of the tank and running to the front. The gas could be running down along the lines and finally dripping off at a low point or at a clamp that holds the lines to the car body.
06-15-2013, 01:07 PM
The VIAS uses fuse # 20, the middle row, last one on the right. But this fuse is probably OK because it also powers 6 other things, one of which is the NATS. If your car starts, I bet the fuse isn't blown.
I would still take the fuel tank access cover off and check. There are lines coming out of the top of the tank and running to the front. The gas could be running down along the lines and finally dripping off at a low point or at a clamp that holds the lines to the car body.
I would still take the fuel tank access cover off and check. There are lines coming out of the top of the tank and running to the front. The gas could be running down along the lines and finally dripping off at a low point or at a clamp that holds the lines to the car body.
Last edited by jaybenice; 06-15-2013 at 02:38 PM.
06-15-2013, 03:12 PM
ok so i'll check those fuel lines out. but that leaves me with the vias . im assuming i'll probably just have to get another solenoid. i know alot of people get the block plate for the vias. but id rather replace mine for now. i kinda wanna pass emissions. I also wanted to know what is the solenoid to the right of the vacuum tank. it seems identical to the vias solenoid.
06-17-2013, 04:18 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
Hey guys! Newbie here. I've been lurking the forums for help a lot lately and finally decided to sign up, so hello! If you don't feel like reading all of this then skip down to the bold.
I'm driving a 2001 Maxima and for the past few weeks I've been having problems. It started about 4 weeks ago when my car went into limp mode on the highway. I managed to limp my way to a friends house and have it towed to a mechanic. The mechanic had it for 2 weeks and couldn't figure out what was wrong. He pawned it off on the dealership who looked at it for a week before they decided it might be the coils, and that they didn't want to buy them so they would wait until another 01 came in to swap them out and see if it worked. I'm not into playing the waiting game for $90/hr so I had it towed home to check out myself. In addition, last time my coils went bad (which is what caused my catalytic converter issues) the car was not in limp mode at any point, just rough idling and loss of power.
I removed the pre cats and bank 2 was torched. There was one small chunk of honeycomb catalyst left so I just took it out and left it hollow. Reattatched everything and the car was still limping. I read around that the MAF sensor could trigger this. Bought a new one at $200 and swapped it out - still limping. Today I pulled off the whole exaust from the cats down and checked to see if it revved, it did! Up to 5k no problem (despite being loud enough to blow your eardrums). I'm thinking the bank 1 cat must be clogged (I can't see inside of it). In addition I can see a small exhaust leak near the flex pipe. Unfortunately due to the shape I can't really hollow out the bank 1 cat because its part of the exhaust and there's a bent pipe at both ends. I ordered a new Y pipe for $200 off ebay and it includes the bank 1 precat.
I have two questions now; Can having one cat hollowed and the other new (with honeycomb) be bad for the car/restrict power? Also, does anyone have advice for getting those damn 02 sensors off? For gods sake it's like they're welded on!!
Edit: Here are the codes that were read at the dealership a few weeks back: P0306 , P0420, tw catalyst sys -b1 ,P0430 tw catalyst sys -b2
Heres the pipe I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350790944144
If anyone else has had limp mode problems feel free to give me some advice, it's priceless to me! I've read all of the threads I could on it, and mostly everyone fixed it by replacing the MAF. Thanks in advance, you guys seem like a great community!
I'm driving a 2001 Maxima and for the past few weeks I've been having problems. It started about 4 weeks ago when my car went into limp mode on the highway. I managed to limp my way to a friends house and have it towed to a mechanic. The mechanic had it for 2 weeks and couldn't figure out what was wrong. He pawned it off on the dealership who looked at it for a week before they decided it might be the coils, and that they didn't want to buy them so they would wait until another 01 came in to swap them out and see if it worked. I'm not into playing the waiting game for $90/hr so I had it towed home to check out myself. In addition, last time my coils went bad (which is what caused my catalytic converter issues) the car was not in limp mode at any point, just rough idling and loss of power.
I removed the pre cats and bank 2 was torched. There was one small chunk of honeycomb catalyst left so I just took it out and left it hollow. Reattatched everything and the car was still limping. I read around that the MAF sensor could trigger this. Bought a new one at $200 and swapped it out - still limping. Today I pulled off the whole exaust from the cats down and checked to see if it revved, it did! Up to 5k no problem (despite being loud enough to blow your eardrums). I'm thinking the bank 1 cat must be clogged (I can't see inside of it). In addition I can see a small exhaust leak near the flex pipe. Unfortunately due to the shape I can't really hollow out the bank 1 cat because its part of the exhaust and there's a bent pipe at both ends. I ordered a new Y pipe for $200 off ebay and it includes the bank 1 precat.
I have two questions now; Can having one cat hollowed and the other new (with honeycomb) be bad for the car/restrict power? Also, does anyone have advice for getting those damn 02 sensors off? For gods sake it's like they're welded on!!
Edit: Here are the codes that were read at the dealership a few weeks back: P0306 , P0420, tw catalyst sys -b1 ,P0430 tw catalyst sys -b2
Heres the pipe I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350790944144
If anyone else has had limp mode problems feel free to give me some advice, it's priceless to me! I've read all of the threads I could on it, and mostly everyone fixed it by replacing the MAF. Thanks in advance, you guys seem like a great community!
Last edited by dcam0326; 06-17-2013 at 04:24 PM.
06-18-2013, 09:53 AM
I'm driving a 2001 Maxima and for the past few weeks I've been having problems.
I removed the pre cats and bank 2 was torched. There was one small chunk of honeycomb catalyst left so I just took it out and left it hollow.
Reattatched everything and the car was still limping. Today I pulled off the whole exaust from the cats down and checked to see if it revved, it did! Up to 5k no problem (despite being loud enough to blow your eardrums). I'm thinking the bank 1 cat must be clogged (I can't see inside of it). In addition I can see a small exhaust leak near the flex pipe. Unfortunately due to the shape I can't really hollow out the bank 1 cat because its part of the exhaust and there's a bent pipe at both ends. I ordered a new Y pipe for $200 off ebay and it includes the bank 1 precat.
I have two questions now; Can having one cat hollowed and the other new (with honeycomb) be bad for the car/restrict power? Also, does anyone have advice for getting those damn 02 sensors off? For gods sake it's like they're welded on!!
Edit: Here are the codes that were read at the dealership a few weeks back: P0306 , P0420, tw catalyst sys -b1 ,P0430 tw catalyst sys -b2
I removed the pre cats and bank 2 was torched. There was one small chunk of honeycomb catalyst left so I just took it out and left it hollow.
Reattatched everything and the car was still limping. Today I pulled off the whole exaust from the cats down and checked to see if it revved, it did! Up to 5k no problem (despite being loud enough to blow your eardrums). I'm thinking the bank 1 cat must be clogged (I can't see inside of it). In addition I can see a small exhaust leak near the flex pipe. Unfortunately due to the shape I can't really hollow out the bank 1 cat because its part of the exhaust and there's a bent pipe at both ends. I ordered a new Y pipe for $200 off ebay and it includes the bank 1 precat.
I have two questions now; Can having one cat hollowed and the other new (with honeycomb) be bad for the car/restrict power? Also, does anyone have advice for getting those damn 02 sensors off? For gods sake it's like they're welded on!!
Edit: Here are the codes that were read at the dealership a few weeks back: P0306 , P0420, tw catalyst sys -b1 ,P0430 tw catalyst sys -b2
If the O2 sensors are refusing to come out, all you can do is keep trying. Spray the threads with PB Blaster, it is probably the best penetrant out there. That and make sure you have a good fitting, 6 point wrench. What you might want to consider is un-plugging the O2 sensors and take them out with the Y-pipe and work on them out in the open.
The other thing you mentioned is that the pre-cat self destructed. This is not good as all the debris goes into the main cat and has been known to plug the main cat. You could have another problem there, the P0420 makes me think plugged main cat.
on the main cat plugged.
06-18-2013, 02:33 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
I don't think having one pre-cat and one gutted pre-cat will be a problem.
If the O2 sensors are refusing to come out, all you can do is keep trying. Spray the threads with PB Blaster, it is probably the best penetrant out there. That and make sure you have a good fitting, 6 point wrench. What you might want to consider is un-plugging the O2 sensors and take them out with the Y-pipe and work on them out in the open.
The other thing you mentioned is that the pre-cat self destructed. This is not good as all the debris goes into the main cat and has been known to plug the main cat. You could have another problem there, the P0420 makes me think plugged main cat.
If the O2 sensors are refusing to come out, all you can do is keep trying. Spray the threads with PB Blaster, it is probably the best penetrant out there. That and make sure you have a good fitting, 6 point wrench. What you might want to consider is un-plugging the O2 sensors and take them out with the Y-pipe and work on them out in the open.
The other thing you mentioned is that the pre-cat self destructed. This is not good as all the debris goes into the main cat and has been known to plug the main cat. You could have another problem there, the P0420 makes me think plugged main cat.
This was my thought. I might just throw on a test pipe and some o2 sims if I can't unclog and salvage it. Thanks for the advice!
06-19-2013, 01:24 PM
06-19-2013, 02:12 PM
06-20-2013, 08:29 AM
06-20-2013, 10:07 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
Hey again folks. New Y pipe just arrived, just gotta get those stubborn O2 sensors off. I'm trying to do as you recommended and disconnect them so I can work on it out in the open. Does anyone know of a good diagram that shows where each sensor connects to the wire harness on an 01 cali spec? The only ones I need to disconnect are the bank 1 sensors.
06-20-2013, 10:49 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
Ahh ok, I just noticed the wires connect underneath... 
Also the pipe that came has these "gasket" things on both ends where the pipes would meet. I'm not sure if I should use them or buy metal ones or something. They seem like a plastic-cardboard composite substance, not sure what they're called.
Also the pipe that came has these "gasket" things on both ends where the pipes would meet. I'm not sure if I should use them or buy metal ones or something. They seem like a plastic-cardboard composite substance, not sure what they're called.
06-20-2013, 05:08 PM
I know u guys can help me . And please forgive me in advance I'm new at this. So my dash light for my speedometer went out. All the others work fine. I searched the forum to find the fuse and I'm getting two different answers. The 7.5 fuse which I can't find. And they say one of the 10a fuses under the hood. Does anyone no the exact one? Thanks, oh and I checked the dimmer already.
06-20-2013, 05:48 PM
I know u guys can help me . And please forgive me in advance I'm new at this. So my dash light for my speedometer went out. All the others work fine. I searched the forum to find the fuse and I'm getting two different answers. The 7.5 fuse which I can't find. And they say one of the 10a fuses under the hood. Does anyone no the exact one? Thanks, oh and I checked the dimmer already.
so all the gauge cluster backlighting is out? Or just that one for the speedo?
Chances are that you have a bad bulb. They burn out from time to time. Get a new one or go LED...it's the 74 type bulb iirc. Get it at autozone or wherever you buy your parts
If they're ALL out, including the climate control backlighting, there's a 7.5A fuse in the driver's side fuse panel labelled INT ILL or something like that (interior illumination). Check and replace that one.
06-20-2013, 06:53 PM
Had it ever worked since the accident? And is it ALL or SOME of the cluster lights? you didn't answer that question
06-20-2013, 06:58 PM
Well at first I never paid attention to the rest but yea they're all out. And like I said there is no 7.5 fuse in there so I'm assuming I should start by getting one.
06-20-2013, 07:13 PM
Just to add to this. I read an old post about the 7.5 fuse blowing and tripping the battery and brake light. Which just happened after I drove the car. It says the fuse is located under the hood and labeled alternator "s". Is that right?