djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Most of them include the mirror, but if they don't, the mirror is swappable.

maxima2500

cool, thanks


another question: I am trying to find the production date of my max and there is no sticker on the side of the driver's door(also check other 3 doors). Under the armrest there is a sticker label but it only states tire pressure info. Any idea where it could be? or how to find the production date?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You can call a dealer and give them the VIN. They'll have production date, which plant, etc.

mau108

Why is everything in the FAQ linked to something completely different?

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There was a server crash a while back and links have never been fully repaired. I don't know if they ever will be. The search function works, but you have to enter a subject. I always click on the little triangle next to the word search and select advanced search myself.

mau108

Thanks!

maxima2500

called and got the production date. thanks

tseng1023

iTrader: (9)

Tired of dealing with precat failures on my 5th gens. What's an aftermarket mod to replace precats?

chw_21

I'm assuming TCS stands for traction control system. Why is it that I have a button on my dash that says "TCS Off" and when I press it in, it does absolutely nothing...? I wanna burn some rubber.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Headers/y-pipe.

Or, an aftermarket replacement for your precat - I've had good luck with "eastern catalytic" branded cats from performancepeddler.com

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Is the bulb burned out? On mine a "TCS off" idiot light shows up on the dash.

This being said, mine came with HLSD too, and I think those options were linked, so unless you have crappy tires and it's wet out, it won't lay down much of a strip.

arkangelgabriel

Ok so i think i figured out whats really wrong with my front end. The clunking noise and vobration whem braking might not be directly related after all. Read many other theads of maximas with similar issues. Clunking is most probably FSBL ends and vibration tie rods. Ill take the advice and get moog tir rod end. they lot cheaper than dealers and for what ive read better

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Diagnosis aside, Moog sway bar links and tie rod ends are definitely quality parts. I recommend them to all my customers.

tree100

I need an expert opinion. Have a 2002 SE with 168,000 miles. It's run fine up until yesterday. I went to start it in the morning and it would crank over, and give out. Tried about 20 times and got nothing. Came back to it in the evening, and it cranked over and over and over, sputtering here or there. I applied the throttle while cranking and it eventually sputtered (slowly) to life. It filled the garage and the immediate part of the neighborhood with gray smoke that smelled of gasoline. And a check engine light came on.

I took the car to autozone and they gave me two codes:

P0011 and P1121 (Cam Sensor Bank 1, and Electronic Throttle Control Actuator)

Brought it to a mechanic today, who told me it is going to cost $1350 to fix. He said that there is an electronic motor mount that has gone bad that the throttle control works in harmony with. So the cost of repair is going to be for the Engine mount, the throttle control actuator and the cam sensor, or whatever the first codes problem is related to.

1,300 bones is quite a lot for a car that has such high mileage. Should I try to fix it myself - I'm not a novice, but also no backyard mechanic either - pay to have it fixed, or scrap the whole thing and start looking for a new car?

Anybody have any experience with these issues?

piaablind

Hey, I wish I had enough posts to start a new thread but I don't. Anyways Brake question.
Mine are really warped and need replaced all around. I don't race but I am a "spirited" driver. I have been doing some research on pads. I may get flamed about asking about this brand but I am going to anyway. Advance Auto has a 25% off deal on brakes right now so I was looking at their Wearever brand pads. Their two higher end ones are the Gold and the Ceramic. They are the exact same price. Any input on if the Ceramic would be better than a premium OEM replacement? Thanks!

piaablind

Additional question.
Over the past two or three weeks I have been getting a flood of SES lights. Ive been checking them with my phone (Torque App) and a Kiwi bluetooth OBD adapter.
It started with a p0138 and p0139. I cleared that seeing if it would come back. It did. Cleared it again then got a p0140. Then for a few days I would get a random combination of p0138 p0139 and p0140. Then a p0160 ( i think) began appearing in the mix.

As of this exact moment I have the following codes
p0138
p0139
p0140
p0159 (first time I have seen this one)
p0158 (first time I have seen this one)

So my question is, would simply replacing the o2 sensors fix this or is there some deeper computer related problem?

arkangelgabriel

djfrestyl thx for the tip. Moog it is then!

tree100 there are a few things to consider before giving up or spending a lot of money. First check your fuses, i know it sounds dumb but there was someone here whose car wouldn't start. turned out to be a blown fuse to the engine module. second have you ever changed your maf? i say it because the second time my maf went bad i had similar symptoms. the car didnt start at first, then when it did there was grey smoke coming out the tail pipe and the smell of gasoline. i was reluctant to think it was the maf sensor since i had changed it like 15k ago. i installed the old maf sensor (glad u kept it) and definably the car ran just like it did before changing maf sensor. got another sensor from the nissan this time with the housing and problem fixed. Again, i never got a code for maf sensor (got codes for o2 sensors but the light had been on already for a while.) hope that helps!

piaablind think thats just a personal choice. the cheaper pads are probably gonna give you squealing noise after a while. if you have the money maybe you should get something a little better. btw you said your rotos are warped? how do you know?

arkangelgabriel

piaablind sounds like your o2 sensors are bad. if you end up replacing them get oem parts. ive said this before but ill say it again, i changed one of my o2 sensor from autozone and it didnt work. it would be nice if you could take your car to a shop where they have an advance scanner machine, i did that (for me it was free since my cuzs husband worked there) and hooked it up having the car running. it showed how all the o2 sensors where working expect the one i had put the autozone one on.

however, i cannot tell you for sure whether it could be a computer problem...sorry about that.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Electronic motor mounts can be replaced with the non-electronic manual mounts. There's plenty of info on the forum about this.

You CAN use non-OEM o2 sensors. Just get a decent brand not the cheap autozone ones. I've ordered from oxygensensors.com with positive results.

Arkangelgabriel- I know you're trying to help but I think you need to read more before you offer any more advice.

piaablind

I am pretty sure the roters are warped because the whole car shakes under heavy braking. However I am just curious if the ceramic pads would give more braking power vs the premium pads.

The o2 sensors, is bosh still a respected brand in this area?

arkangelgabriel

I know im no super mechanic but everything i say here say it cause it has happen to me and i have fixed it. No theory here but practice.

arkangelgabriel

djfrestyl got a question about the tie rod ends and fsbl. the moog ones im planning to buy are greaseable, is that better than non greaseables?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Every one of those codes are O2 sensor codes. You have 2 bad O2 sensors. Look at this chart. Scroll down 3 screens to the picture of the exhaust system.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-issues.html


Ceramic pads will give the best braking under heavy breaking conditions. However, they work best when hot, so when you first start driving, ceramic pads actually are a little worse than standard pads. Also, they have a tendency to squeal.

Bosch sensors are a good brand.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Not better nor worse, just different. If you won't be able to grease them every so often then go with another brand that's seal packed.

arkangelgabriel

Oh ok! Thx! I think ill go with another brand...rather not have to grease them cause ill have to get a grease gun and grease tubes right?

piaablind

Thanks for the info, I was curious about the sensors since I was not getting consistant error codes and had seen a couple things on here about some people with o2 codes that had to get their ecm reprogrammed. But those all seemed to be on 5th gens early in their life. I was assuming it was just the sensors tho, thanks again.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

If you need the ECM reprogrammed, you're doing it wrong. The only ECU fix was a technical service bulletin for some 2000s and some 2001s depending on the ECM serial number. If it has been applied, then you're fine, and if it hasn't, Nissan's emissions warranty has probably expired.

Here is the thing - the ECM runs on a feedback cycle based on three of the four O2 sensors under normal operating conditions. Because of this, it will follow one reading, or the average, depending on the mode of the motor, and adjust accordingly. Then another o2 sensor will sent the "running rich" or "running lean" signal, it adjusts, and can't get agreement between the sensors. It then throws a code for all the sensors. Go with the first, in order that you see them, because it's the first fault detected, and deal with them one at a time.

If you have codes that say "no signal" from an O2 sensor, check your wiring before replacing them - the connectors are at the front of the engine and subject to all sorts of fine road debris, and the wires run along all sorts of sections where they can get pinched by sticks or whatever when you drive over them.

Bosch sensors, both the direct fit and universals, are fine - at least they work fine for me. The universals take more time to install, has a lot of small parts, and four hands are sometimes needed, but their connection system works as advertised.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I am going to respectfully call BS on your mechanic's statement. The motor mount is signaled by the ECM, and the ECM bases the decision to firm the motor mounts based on RPM, over 2000 rpm, they get power and "go firm."

You can also disconnect the electric motor mounts and it will not do any harm, unless the wire connection gets shorted.

Regular, non-electric motor mounts fit fine too, as stated previously.

It's all in the FSM, I posted a link to it on the previous page.

Yes, your mechanic either does not know what he's doing or he's being less than honest. I see that issue all the time.

The camshaft position sensor and the other actuator aren't that hard to replace - go through the diagnostics in the FSM, and it's not too hard to do yourself. Just remember to pull the negative off the battery before working on ECM-connected bits

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

My grease gun was $12, and I just pack it with loose grease, no need for tubes.

You won't find any other brand that's nearly as beefy as Moog, but in the end it's your choice.

arkangelgabriel

Oh wow! In that case then yeah moog it is. I was thinking around 40 or 50 for a grease gun. Thx a lot man i really apreciated it. im gonna order sway bar bushings to, they look worn out

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Get energy suspension sway bar bushings, not Moog or any other brand.

And while you're at it, buy a spare tire cover from me. Link for more info is in my sig.

arkangelgabriel

Crap to late...already order the moog bushings to

Bearmaster

Hoping to get some insight on a recent issue with my 2000 Maxima SE, 5spd manual, 163,000kms.

Last week I got in my car and the clutch went right to the floor. Apparently this was a lack of hydraulic pressure. I took it to a transmission shop and they replaced the master cylinder and slave. After that, clutch, shifting was fine.

This morning, I was driving and while the shifting was normal, the car felt sluggish and shuddered while shifting through all gears but was ok while coasting. I originally thought it might merely be due to the cold and once it warmed up it would be fine. Not the case. In addition, under harder acceleration, the check engine light would flash on and off. (It is normally on, but solid, not flashing. I had this diagnosed a few weeks ago and it is apparently an o2 sensor)

I have done some snooping around and have heard everything from tranny problems, to motor mounts to ignition coils. If someone could point me in the correct direction, I would be very appreciative. Thanks in advance.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

What was the code?

It could also be your MAF.

Bearmaster

I guess I should have asked for the actual code. The mechanic just said it was one of the o2 sensors. Not much help I guess.

arkangelgabriel

Better safe than sorry, change your transmission oil. And djfrestyl is right could be maf sensor. My first blown maf sensor gave me somewhat similar sympthoms. Even thou i got auto tranny when i press gad pedal it would downshift but felt sluggish and wouldnt advance. but when cruising easy on thr gas it wad fine (on long high way trips it would kinda cut off power for like 3 seconds them come back)

Djfrestyl my spare tire cover is in good conditions. got it from the junk yard but thx for the offer. and why dont u recommend moog fsb bushings? they bad?

Bearmaster

Sounds good. The transmission shop wanted me to bring it back in after a week/10 days so they could check their work, make sure everything is good, I guess I can get them to check/change the transmission oil. Thanks for your help.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Return them. They're made of rubber just like OEM. They're not bad, but there's better out there for about the same cost.

piaablind

Thanks for the advice, Ill start with the checking the wires, then replace the first sensor I got codes on and see if the second one still throws a code.

candt

Will a pending code turn on the check engine light? I have been getting a pending P1320. The car runs fine, no misses, all new coil packs and NGK spark plugs. This is the only code I am getting. I have cleared it, and when I do so, the check engine light turns off, and at some point turns back on, and the pending P1320 comes back. The bulb in my dash for the check engine light is either burnt out, or missing. The way I know the check engine light is on, is because the code reader tells me. So, would the pending code be turning it on, or is there anything else that would turn it on?