5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
11-24-2011, 06:10 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
p1800 is in relation to your VIAS control solenoid, small potatoes compared to the p0301 which is a #1 cylinder misfire.
I would start with a spark test first off then do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. When you pull the plug check it for carbon scoring and abnormal wear or color, also make sure that the plugs are the recommended plugs for your car with correct gap. Also if the plug is not an NGK plug then you need to get NGK plugs in there!
I would start with a spark test first off then do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. When you pull the plug check it for carbon scoring and abnormal wear or color, also make sure that the plugs are the recommended plugs for your car with correct gap. Also if the plug is not an NGK plug then you need to get NGK plugs in there!
How would i do a spark test on the 1st cylinder? I have to pull the intake mani on my 3.5 to get to spark plug
11-24-2011, 06:19 PM
Sorry i'm new to maximas, but no bubble on the coil pack, just took the intake mani off 2day replaced coil, still running rough. Only codes i have are P1800 and P0301, So now that the coil is replaced, what else should i look for and how do i find the problem, thanks for all the help. And i tryed searching and cant find the method to check codes without a tool?
Thanks for info, i'm going to pull intake mani again tomarro and look. Just a fyi all the coil packs have a grey dot so there "updated". Another question .is can it be the fuel injector? i had a misfire couple of years ago on a tahoe and had to replace entire fuel delivry system. Because i was readig and if its the coil usally it's a P1320 code plus a P0301 correct? but thanks for the advise and help so much.
Pull the plug, check for cracking in the porcelain, carbon tracking, a ground strap shorted to the center electrode, anything visually abnormal. If not NGKs, skip any more troubleshooting and install a set, it could very well be your problem.
Check for spark. If no spark, then you've either got a DOA new coil, there's a wiring fault in power/ground or control, or there's no control being sent from the ECU.
If your spark is good, ohm out the injector. You're looking for 13.5-17.5 ohms at ambient temp (not after you've been running the engine). This will tell you how it is electrically, but you'd need to pull the rail (or get a fuel pressure gauge and manually fire the injector) to see if it's flowing, and flowing well.
Do a compression test, and if showing low compression, a leakdown.
Follow these in order, and you should be able to determine the problem.
Is it rough as in you have a completely dead hole, or rough as in one cylinder isn't contributing as much as the others?
11-24-2011, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
Steps 1-4 here, then read the codes: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ease-help.html
Yes, it could be the injector also. No, a P1320 isn't required for a coil to be bad (nor does a P1320 mean there's a dead coil).
Pull the plug, check for cracking in the porcelain, carbon tracking, a ground strap shorted to the center electrode, anything visually abnormal. If not NGKs, skip any more troubleshooting and install a set, it could very well be your problem.
Check for spark. If no spark, then you've either got a DOA new coil, there's a wiring fault in power/ground or control, or there's no control being sent from the ECU.
If your spark is good, ohm out the injector. You're looking for 13.5-17.5 ohms at ambient temp (not after you've been running the engine). This will tell you how it is electrically, but you'd need to pull the rail (or get a fuel pressure gauge and manually fire the injector) to see if it's flowing, and flowing well.
Do a compression test, and if showing low compression, a leakdown.
Follow these in order, and you should be able to determine the problem.
Is it rough as in you have a completely dead hole, or rough as in one cylinder isn't contributing as much as the others?
Yes, it could be the injector also. No, a P1320 isn't required for a coil to be bad (nor does a P1320 mean there's a dead coil).
Pull the plug, check for cracking in the porcelain, carbon tracking, a ground strap shorted to the center electrode, anything visually abnormal. If not NGKs, skip any more troubleshooting and install a set, it could very well be your problem.
Check for spark. If no spark, then you've either got a DOA new coil, there's a wiring fault in power/ground or control, or there's no control being sent from the ECU.
If your spark is good, ohm out the injector. You're looking for 13.5-17.5 ohms at ambient temp (not after you've been running the engine). This will tell you how it is electrically, but you'd need to pull the rail (or get a fuel pressure gauge and manually fire the injector) to see if it's flowing, and flowing well.
Do a compression test, and if showing low compression, a leakdown.
Follow these in order, and you should be able to determine the problem.
Is it rough as in you have a completely dead hole, or rough as in one cylinder isn't contributing as much as the others?
11-24-2011, 08:45 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
oo-max Maf sensor????
My car revs up when cranked and will die down after it idles for a little bit. It often quits at redlights or stop signs. It quits when I first start it after putting it in reverse or drive. When I put it in reverse or drive it will rev up and as soon as i mash gas it will quit. I have to keep cranking it up until it decides to let me drive. At 2500rpm it acts like it doesnt want to go into gear or something. Also when I first start driving when I press the gas pedal it sometimes quits or wants to die down but if I take my foot off of gas it will usually stop dieing. It seems like after I drive for a while it gets better but still wants to do wierd stuff at 2500rpm and it will not go over. I have replaced the fuel pump/filter and strainer and cleaned the maf. Any other suggestions?
11-25-2011, 06:55 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 86
The dead pedal where my left foot goes is missing. It looks like it simply glues on, is this correct? Or is that velcro? Does anyone have a part number for this? I cant seem to find it on Courtesty Nissan's website. 2000 Maxima.
11-25-2011, 07:26 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
If it moves, the motor is good. Put the seat all the way back, inspect the left side seat track for debris (most likely a penny or similar object is stuck in the seat track, preventing seat movement). If you don't see anything, unbolt the seat and tilt it all the way back, look for anything underneath that doesn't look right while you're using the seat switch.
I do see a TSB for replacing the entire slide track and motor assy, but that's only if it isn't moving at all.
I do see a TSB for replacing the entire slide track and motor assy, but that's only if it isn't moving at all.
11-25-2011, 07:26 AM
You're better off just getting an aftermarket or 350Z deadpedal.
11-25-2011, 09:16 AM
Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to it not starting?
11-25-2011, 09:34 AM
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16
Let me give a time line of the past week. State was defective and so I changed it, I also cleaned carbon out of the intake and an oil change. Drove great for a couple days. I drove to work with no problems and when I was leaving it just cranked with no start.
11-25-2011, 02:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 124
This is the one i use but mine is fron Cornwell Tools http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25069-Adju.../dp/B0014WDFLY
Last edited by quiksilver20004; 11-25-2011 at 02:10 PM.
11-25-2011, 02:07 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 124
My car revs up when cranked and will die down after it idles for a little bit. It often quits at redlights or stop signs. It quits when I first start it after putting it in reverse or drive. When I put it in reverse or drive it will rev up and as soon as i mash gas it will quit. I have to keep cranking it up until it decides to let me drive. At 2500rpm it acts like it doesnt want to go into gear or something. Also when I first start driving when I press the gas pedal it sometimes quits or wants to die down but if I take my foot off of gas it will usually stop dieing. It seems like after I drive for a while it gets better but still wants to do wierd stuff at 2500rpm and it will not go over. I have replaced the fuel pump/filter and strainer and cleaned the maf. Any other suggestions?
11-25-2011, 03:37 PM
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16
I tried getting a spark by pulling a spark and putting it back in the coil and then clamped to down to a spot in the engine that’s grounded with no success. Also I’m charging battery overnight so I’ll have full charge. OK... tomorrow I’m going to pick up a spark tester at AutoZone. Also I’m going to borrow a code reader from a buddy and check the fuel pressure reg.
11-25-2011, 09:47 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
Well if you have a spark problem or an injector problem then thats what your going to have to do. you can put a plug in the coil and ground it to the engine while cranking and it should spark. an actual spark tester is the best though because you can change the gap to determine how strong of spark you are getting.
This is the one i use but mine is fron Cornwell Tools http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25069-Adju.../dp/B0014WDFLY
This is the one i use but mine is fron Cornwell Tools http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25069-Adju.../dp/B0014WDFLY
So like i said replaced coil was still running rough last night. This morning get up to run and get some tools, Start and ran perfect?? either way im happy and only spent 100 and a few hours
11-26-2011, 01:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Where to buy a Smart Entrance Control Unit for 2000 Maxima
After reading several posts, it seem clear to me that I need a Smart Entrance Control Unit for my 2000 Maxima SE. The part number is 28596N. None of my local parts stores carry this and referred me to my dealer who is closed. No one is selling this part on ebay either. Courtesyparts.com has it listed for over $300. Can someone offer up an alternative?
Thanks very much!
Thanks very much!
11-26-2011, 02:06 PM
After reading several posts, it seem clear to me that I need a Smart Entrance Control Unit for my 2000 Maxima SE. The part number is 28596N. None of my local parts stores carry this and referred me to my dealer who is closed. No one is selling this part on ebay either. Courtesyparts.com has it listed for over $300. Can someone offer up an alternative?
Thanks very much!
Thanks very much!
Have you not tried junkyards?
11-26-2011, 05:51 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
No, I haven't. Actually, this is the first repair that I haven't used a shop for so I"m a bit of a novice. Do most junk yards sell parts like this? Do I have to remove it myself? I'm not all that handy and sure do appreciate the advice!!
11-26-2011, 05:53 PM
Depends on the yard. Most pull the parts themselves, but there are some that you pull parts, and those yards are generally cheaper than the rest.
11-26-2011, 06:13 PM
Hello My name is Rob, I'm from Winchester Va, I just recently picked up my first Maxima. Its a 02,SE, glacier white,auto trans. The question I have is it seems the rear coil springs are sagging, What brand of replacement struts and coil springs do you guy recommend ?
11-27-2011, 07:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
Do these cars (2003) have the emergency trunk release handle thats accessible from inside the trunk? My solenoid popper works but the switch inside somehow isn't allowing it to open and the key cylinder for the trunk is rusted and not working. I need to get the trunk open!
11-27-2011, 09:47 AM
Do these cars (2003) have the emergency trunk release handle thats accessible from inside the trunk? My solenoid popper works but the switch inside somehow isn't allowing it to open and the key cylinder for the trunk is rusted and not working. I need to get the trunk open!
In that same opening you will see another piece of metal. It is another lever that prevents the trunk from opening by the key fob remote or the driver's door button. It slides up and down. This is probably why the "popper" as you call it doesn't work. I think it should be in the up position to allow the trunk to opwn with the remote. Or maybe its down. Whichever, move it to the other position.
11-27-2011, 09:53 AM
If you want factory type, probably Monroe brand is what you want. I think you can get them as an assembly with the spring already installed on it, making it a very easy replacement.
If you want a slighty stiffer ride, get KYB struts. I don't think KYB comes with springs for the rear of the car. As far as a brand of spring, I don't have any recommendations.
11-27-2011, 10:58 AM
17x9 tire stretch
I'm getting these 17x9 xxr 522's here soon and was wondering what suggestion of 45 series tire would be a good, but not ridiculous stretch. I was thinking 215/45. Any ideas?
Last edited by MaxiBeast; 11-27-2011 at 11:26 AM.
11-27-2011, 11:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
Federal law dictates that all cars sold in the U.S. have an emergency release that can be operated from inside the trunk. It is a small lever (or tab) that extends from the latch part that is in the trunk lid. If you are looking in from the back seat, there is a small square opening in the body where the latch goes into. Just push the lever to the side.
In that same opening you will see another piece of metal. It is another lever that prevents the trunk from opening by the key fob remote or the driver's door button. It slides up and down. This is probably why the "popper" as you call it doesn't work. I think it should be in the up position to allow the trunk to opwn with the remote. Or maybe its down. Whichever, move it to the other position.
In that same opening you will see another piece of metal. It is another lever that prevents the trunk from opening by the key fob remote or the driver's door button. It slides up and down. This is probably why the "popper" as you call it doesn't work. I think it should be in the up position to allow the trunk to opwn with the remote. Or maybe its down. Whichever, move it to the other position.
11-27-2011, 03:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 190
Yeah man the computer might not throw u a code for whats really wrong
thats how i came to change my maf sensor. Anyhow id start from the basics as in check your spark plugs for signs of wear and oil. If thats ok then proceed to check for spark and compression.
thats how i came to change my maf sensor. Anyhow id start from the basics as in check your spark plugs for signs of wear and oil. If thats ok then proceed to check for spark and compression.
11-27-2011, 07:38 PM
Yes, it's possible. Yes, it's been done. The procedure is documented in the All Motor section. Listed for an A32, but it's all but the same for an A33.
11-27-2011, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 190
Might be better to get an 02 or 03 lol. btw pmohr maybe u can give me a little advice. my rear valve cover job went perfect. just came back from orlando and no leaks at all however my front end getting worse. shakes when i break at high speeds. around 50 when i break feels like something is really bad down there like loose. I checked everything and all seems good. Its not warp rotors sincd i had them refaced and didnt fix the problem. so im thinkong tie rods...specially because of the clunking noise i get when going thru bumps thx to the streets of new orleans. i just wanna know if im right about tie rods before i spend 450 in replacing them
11-27-2011, 08:35 PM
Might be better to get an 02 or 03 lol. btw pmohr maybe u can give me a little advice. my rear valve cover job went perfect. just came back from orlando and no leaks at all however my front end getting worse. shakes when i break at high speeds. around 50 when i break feels like something is really bad down there like loose. I checked everything and all seems good. Its not warp rotors sincd i had them refaced and didnt fix the problem. so im thinkong tie rods...specially because of the clunking noise i get when going thru bumps thx to the streets of new orleans. i just wanna know if im right about tie rods before i spend 450 in replacing them
Are you feeling the shake in the body, or is it in the steering wheel? Don't discount a rear rotor issue feeling like it's in the front (assuming you had the front turned). Excessive hub flange runout can also cause a severe brake pulsation, depending on how bad it is. You would need a dial indicator to test for this, and may be possible to use an on-car lathe to correct the pulsation. Failing that, it could be a bad hub or bearing, or just loose axle nut.
As far as the loose suspension components, the only time I've seen them cause a severe brake pulsation is when they are extremely loose, never when they only show slight play on inspection.
A clunking noise over bumps is most commonly FSB end links, but struts can make almost the same noise (have done front struts on several A34s recently for what sounded exactly like end links).
11-28-2011, 06:56 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 93
11-28-2011, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16
I'm still experiencing this headache. Crank the engine and hear the starter and the flywheel turn “no start”. I’ve double checked the coil packs front and rear banks “no spark”, pulled the ignition switch and cleaned it and tried plugging code reader and reads “error try again”. I’ve check the crank and cam sensor earlier last week and ohms in range. Is it possible the ECM is bad or possibly the alarm system to causing a no start?
11-28-2011, 02:51 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 190
Ill tell u a little of the npise history. Bought the car in orlando in 09. Roads in fla are nice and smooth not like the damaged broken ones here in new orleans. Anyways the car had no front end noises back then (about 145k, now 187k) after a while i notice the clunk noise but not at all bum
ps. Got worse then started shaking while braking. Now its worse. Ill tell u why i think it might be tie rods. The shaking feelz on the steering wheel, had front rotors eefacex and didnt fix the problem. The car does not shake while driving no matter how fast ( have done 130 mph). It does not pulled to either side and doesnt eat the tires. I also changed front and rear struts so thats out. I went under the car and checked with a rachet and sockets all the nuts and everything is tight. Cv shafts are good no leaks or tear on boots. the only thing was the outter tie rods. the little boot is broken and they (specially the driver side one) have more play than they should. driver side feels like shakes a little when i shake it and passanger side doesnt.
ps. Got worse then started shaking while braking. Now its worse. Ill tell u why i think it might be tie rods. The shaking feelz on the steering wheel, had front rotors eefacex and didnt fix the problem. The car does not shake while driving no matter how fast ( have done 130 mph). It does not pulled to either side and doesnt eat the tires. I also changed front and rear struts so thats out. I went under the car and checked with a rachet and sockets all the nuts and everything is tight. Cv shafts are good no leaks or tear on boots. the only thing was the outter tie rods. the little boot is broken and they (specially the driver side one) have more play than they should. driver side feels like shakes a little when i shake it and passanger side doesnt.
11-28-2011, 03:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 190
Dand it might as well be a security issue. reason why i say it is because i got a spare key from the nissan but didnt get it program to start the car, just open the door (wife locked the key inside) i went ahead and tried to start the car with the spare key anyways and it just wouldnt start. engine would turn just wouldnt start. then had to wait like five minutes and try about 3 times with the original key to get the car to start.