NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Do you know if it burns oil and how much are you paying?

How does it look otherwise, any records to speak of, engine bay look clean, rust anywhere, near the radiator support?

Stuart Ramsey

All looks good and doesn't seem to be burning oil. The car was originally listed at $4,900 but I was able to talk him down to $3,700. Didn't see any rust either.

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Considering I paid $4,500 for mine, I'd say that still a bit high. I see them all over here with those miles in the 2k bracket.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Paid $3k for an 02 which I believe had 165k at the time of purchase. Seems high to me, but prices vary buy location a bit as well. I'd show up with $3500 cash and offer that explaining you are spending that amount either on his car or the (insert whatever car here) that you found with lower miles and in better condition.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean by "i have manual auto".

Auto climate control has a **** that you turn to set a temperature that you would like the car's interior (cabin) to be at. Kind of like a thermostat. The setting is displayed as a number in the control panel. Click on the link and go to the bottom of page 24 for a picture of the auto climate control panel. If you have the Nissan navigation system, see the top of page 25.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2003/ha.pdf

The manual controls has a lever that you slide from left (cold) to right (hot) in order to set the temperature. Using the same link above, go to page 175 for a picture of the manual control panel.

As I said before, we need to know which system you have in order to help you.

jvdmtl

Dear Maxima Owners,

My mechanic replaced the radiator today which costs 400 CAD

Few hours later the service engine light appeared.

Is this because of the maintenance perhaps?

Furthermore what is the quickest way to take off the light? Already have TCS, SLIP and ABS lights so don't want to add Service light to the colorful rainbow!

Regards,

Javed

insaner

hey all,

i was looking at these mounts for my 03' Auto. i have read all the threads and maybe i am crazy but i just want as close to oem as possible, not the poly or home made etc.

thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-Nissan-Maxima-3-5L-Engine-Motor-Mount-Set-Of-4-7306el-7302-7304-7313-M442-/350850051955?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b04aef73

anthonysiracuse

Thank u for clarifying that .. I have manual auto my good sir

Mikel81

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

choose one...

MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL

or

AUTO CLIMATE CONTROL?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Please answer with just one word.

AUTO - if your controls look like the picture on page 24.
MANUAL - if your controls look like the picture on page 175.

anthonysiracuse

Im gonna try to not be rude as u gentleman are in fact taking time out of your day to help me ... And being that it is me in fact who is soliciting help .. I will just say .. For the THIRD time now .. I have MANUAL ... I only asked for a description of the differance for my own curiousity ... Please remember that just because u gentleman have more experiance in these issues doesnt make the person asking for help an idiot .. i am an electrician and more than qualified ..now moving forward ... I checked the fuses under the hood and yes they were fried both 15 amp blower motor fuses ... So i guess the next question would be how do i go about finding why the motor is drawing to much current ... ??

anthonysiracuse

The auto after manual was a typo .. I accidentaly put that ... I meant to add that after but it didnt post

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

yes, that was what was confusing us.

Now that we've got it figured out that you have manual climate control, that's great

Sometimes the blower just goes out...do you have a volt meter to test?

anthonysiracuse

Yessir my trusty fluke by my side

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

If you say trusty fluke, it's gotta be a 70 series 2 or a 77....at least. I used to work at fluke

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Because the fuses are blown, my first guess is that the blower motor is shorted. Unplug it and check the windings.

Here is the wiring diagram for the blower motor. See page 183. Page 179 has a component locator drawing if you need it.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2003/ha.pdf

FYI - if you ever replace the blower motor resistor, DO NOT leave it hanging out of the air duct and turn the blower motor on. It will burn itself up in seconds.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

My DVM is a Fluke 15B, sold under the Sears Craftsman label.

FMSCMaX

Hey guys I'm getting started on the exhaust for my 03 6spd. I occasionally drive customers in the car and I don't want it obnoxious or so loud that it will draw the wrong kind of attention. I think I want headers and stock pipes from there back to make the most power. This is the closest I can find to what that might sound like: . Anyone have a link to headers with everything else stock?

Barbequber

iTrader: (1)

Hey, so I decided to pull out and check the rear spark plugs today, and when I pulled out the cylinder 5 coil, it looked to have a thin oil coating. I pulled out the plug, and it was SOAKED. I can't tell you if the plug had any oil on it before I pulled it out, because it got a thorough soaking from the oil in the tube. Cylinder 3 was the same way(maybe a little better), but cylinder 1 was bone dry. The car is an '02 SE 6MT btw. Where should I be looking for leaks and what's the best way to go about fixing this? Thanks.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Replace the rear valve cover. From Courtesy, ~$174 for an A33B, $33 for an A34, same part. Get a new A34 rear valve cover, and you'll be good.

Barbequber

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! My old valve cover gasket is in beautiful shape (only 80k km on engine, and it might've been replaced before), and I was thinking of reusing it. Does it fit an A34 cover, or will i need an A34 gasket too?

00Lightsout

sounds like your alternator is dying, thus your sensors are reading low voltage... your airbag light needs to be reset ASAP BC it can deploy while driving!! search "airbag reset" on here or check my thread posts. Disconnect your battery for 15mins, clean the terminals, clean all alternator connections, then restart the car with everything reconnected.

MaximasMane.

I have an 01 maxima, and i want to get a new exhaust. What would be a good choice? I dont really wanna go cheap, id rather save and get a quality one. Im mainly getting it for the sound of it, and cosmetic, but a gain in performance is always nice

aksansai

iTrader: (2)

Whoa... that's ridiculous. Replacing the radiator with an aftermarket one costs much less (about 1/4) and only requires an hour or two to replace.

Does Canada have the common auto parts stores that we have in the US? Auto parts stores can use the OBD-II diagnostic port (located under the dash on the driver side) and let you know what code(s) are triggering the SES light for free. They do this in hopes that you will purchase the parts to repair the problem. The diagnostic takes less than a minute and will let you know exactly the problem that is triggering the light. No guess work. If it is related to the cooling system, your path is clear.

Once the ECU has triggered the SES light, it has detected a chronic anomaly in one (or more) of its sensors. It could be a faulty sensor, faulty wiring, loose gas cap, or an actual metric that is out of specification. A $20 OBD-II scanner can reset the light. It tells the ECU to re-poll all sensors. If it is an O2 sensor reading that is at odds, it could take a hundred miles before the SES is triggered. If it is something more critical (MAF, for example), it will turn back on in less miles.

If the light has just come on the first time (and not blinking), you can drive it around until you use up all your fuel. Fill it up with a reputable brand, premium grade. The light may go off by itself if the ECU detects that the anomaly has disappeared from the system. I used to experience this on and off during the winter until I replaced my gas cap. The code had to do with O2 readings. Unfortunately, my SES light is on all the time now because it believes the cat needs to be replaced. Thankfully, it's the only glow. All other systems are working properly!

ZWCMax

I have a 2001 Maxima SE (about 102000 miles) and since I got it over a year ago, when I accelerate from about 1900-2100 rpm, I hear a grinding noise coming from the front of the car, at first I thought it was from the wheel area, but I accelerated to 2000rpm while in drive and holding down the brakes, and it still happens. Any idea what it may be? Ive looked around a bit and the possible causes I saw were broken torque converters, catalysts, and heat shield directly above catalytic converter...any way to rule these out myself? I was told to do a ATF flush and check for metal shavings as well.

There is also a squeaking noise at idle, at first i thought it was the serpentine belt, but after changing that and adjusting it to proper tension, its still coming up. Could it be the pulley itself?

Aside from the noise, the car has been driving great, shifts perfect and smooth, havent been abusing it much (only when catching up on the highway to do I get above 4000 rpm)

Thanks in advance for any help.---zwc

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The grinding noise is probably a heat shield on the exhaust system. Except I would call it a rattling type sound. I would have to hear the sound myself.

The squeak could be several things. It could be the bearing in the belt tensioner pulley, it could be the bearing in the alternator or a/c compressor. You need to use a stethoscope to locate it. I use a long screwdriver instead of a stethoscope, it does the same thing. Touch it to the bolt holding the tensioner pulley and the body of the alternator. If it is the source of the squeak, you will hear it loud and clear.

ZWCMax

Yeah you're right, it's like a cross between rattling/grinding, but def closer to rattling. Is this something I can fix myself or would I need to take it to a shop? I'll try to get a recording of the sound, sounds a bit like this but more of a rattle and slightly higher pitched
(also notice how the heat shield was his problem lol)

As for the bearing issue, I'm going to test out the screwdriver method, or borrow my med-school cousins stethoscope. Is this something I can tackle on my own as well or would it be better to take it to a shop?

Thanks a bunch again---zwc

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If it is a heat shield, you should be able to fix it. There are several pieces of metal used as heat shields, so the challenge is to find the specific one. You have to crawl under the car to be able to get to some of them. You may find a loose/missing retaining bolt and maybe you may have to bend it to add a little more stiffness to it.

The stethoscopes used by mechanics are not the same quality as a medical version. They don't need to be. A medical stethoscope has a round disk end on it. For a car, you want a metal probe (like a screwdriver or ice pick) on it. And I hope your cousin would tell you "NO" if you asked him. You have to have a steady hand when using a stethoscope (or screwdriver) because you are putting the end of it real close to moving parts. If you have the nerves and steady hand, there's no reason why you cant.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=stethoscope
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=70131_0_0_
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-16-...6&blockType=G6

Daniel Ahrendt

I have a 02 SE with all cloth inside. Found a 02 SE in the junk yard with leather so I grabbed all of it. The passenger side seat plugged and play. However the wring harness from the car doesn't match up to the seat. How can I fix this?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

In order to use that seat, you MUST identify what car it came out of (make, model, year). Then you need to get the wire harness ends with the connectors so that you can splice then into your car's wire harness.

Based on what you say about the motor connectors, all I can tell you is that it is not from a 5th gen Maxima.

Does the junkyard still have the car this seat came out of? Maybe that car has all the connectors spliced into it and you can get them.

ZWCMax

There's a harbor freight only a few minutes from my house so it looks like I'll be heading there this week. I was going to pick up a few jack stands too to look for the heat shield issue (as well as starting my own oil and ATF changes). Are either of the problems something that needs to be taken care of immediately?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Something that rattles is not usually a dire situation.

The squeaking noise is more critical to find out what it is. If it is a bearing, that means it has lost its lubrication and will be self destructing. I had an alternator bearing squeaking for over a month before I finally decided to replace it and I couldn't detect any play in the shaft. If it is the idler pulley bearing, I think that could do more damage than the alternator. Just don't delay too long.

imelias

Hey guys, Im new here but iv ebeen admiring maximas for a long time. So, on monday I finally bought one =). I live in Long Island and went to Philadelphia to get it. Spent $1800 for 2000 Maxima SE with 100,000 miles (manual 5-speed). It just needed a new master cylinder and rear brakes. But i went to go pick it up todauy (Saturday) and i ran into some problems....

I turned the car on and after letting it idle for no more than 3 minutes, it shut down. And it kept on doing this everytime. The mechanic and i both thought ti was the battery, so i bought a new one at wal mart. Still kept turning off. Then we replaced the spark plugs, still didnt work. When your in gear, it doesnt turn off, but everytime i coasted in neuteral, or stopped at a red light, it shut off while i was driving. Didnt even make it 2 blocks past Roosevelt Blvd before i had to turn around. Also The car didnt seem like it was firing on all cylinders, it felt like it was missing 2 cylinders. What the mechanic told me was it needs a tune-up, because it been sitting in a parking lot for about 9 months. Has anyone had any problems like this? Do you think it just needs a tune up, or did i buy a clunker?


EDIT: Also while driving down the Blvd, all the gauges failed twice. The mechanic replaced the fuse, and it started working, then we took it down the block again, and then the gauges failed again.

ZWCMax

Going to have it properly diagnosed tomorrow from a former Nissan tech I know of. Can a bearing be changed without a press? Because otherwise I was just going to buy the entire assembly (seen em for about 20-30 bucks), and he said if that's the issue, he'd repair it for about $50

ZWCMax

Have another issue with my Max, the power driver seat no longer goes back and forth (back rest works fine). What could it be? A fuse or relay? Its really not an issue, now no one can mess with my seat setting, but its still something thats not working and it bothers me lol

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Common problem, mostly attributed to a plastic cam/cog in the motor stripping. If it clicks when you hit the switch, that's most likely your issue. If you get nothing when you hit the switch, it's the motor. You can try tapping it with a hammer, but if it that fixes it, it will only be temporary. Mine has been broken for almost a year. I live with it, but could be fixed. Run a search and you'll find numerous threads. One of these days I'll try swapping motors with the passenger seat.

cdoublejj

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161080826503...84.m1423.l2649

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Some bearings can be changed without a press, some cannot. Small bearings usually don't need a press. The idler pulley and alternator would be small bearings.

The idler pulley with bearing be bought with bearing for about $30. You can get the bearing by itself for probably $10. Someone has posted the bearing number the pulley uses but you would have to search for it, I don't have it. If you remove the old bearing without destroying it, it should have a number on it.

I guess you friend is giving you a price for the idler pulley because I don't think he would remove & repair/replace the alternator for only $50.