Cutthroat

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your help !

JLaugh

I am curious of the capacity of the auto tranny cooler in the oem radiator. When replaced does it need to be primed or anything.

I replaced my oem radiator (02 se auto) last night. While checking fluids everything shows full. Obviously, I filled coolant but, added no tranny fluid. When I checked tranny it's within the ok area but, the lower end of it (it has remained constant). I lost a minimal amount of fluid. None leaked out of rad when removed (maybe vacuum?) Is there an issue or it possible that the cooler contains less fluid than the ok range?

I have driven about 30 miles with the heater and coolant has barely moved. Maybe there is no issue but, as I am a noob it does have me concerned.

mack5158

Is it possible to get replacement key fobs for the alarm? She's a 2k2 GLE. if so, where should I get them and how much should I expect to pay? And I assume I will need to get it programmed for my car? Thanks in advance.

arkangelgabriel

You are kinda confusing. You said you replaced the radiator but then you talk about the coolant as in the resovouir? And the tranny if its low add some fluid (auto transsmition fluid level gets checked with the car running). Just fill your fluids where they suppose to and keep checking. If they dont go down then u ok

arkangelgabriel

Mack i paid 97 to have a key made and they charge 115 to get it programmed to start the car (if u dont get it programm it wont start the car) all this at the nissan. Prices vary on all dealers

JLaugh

I apologize about being confusing.
Changed radiator oem (internal auto tran cooler)
Refilled coolant.
Ran car to get warm.
Coolant level did not drop but an inch or so.

(on other vehicles I have owned it dropped by quite a bit more than that.)

Checked auto tran fluid, unfortunately I did not get a baseline before I started. It is still in good range. I assume I should have lost some due to the tran cooler in radiator. I'm not certain how much the tran cooler should hold but I would have assumed it's enough to require adding tranny fluid. My other thinking on this is that the new tran cooler may be vapor locked like I have seen engine coolant systems do on other vehicles.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can get key fobs at a lot of different places. If you want to get the Nissan OEM type, expect to prices to start at about $55. If you want aftermarket key fob, prices will start at around $15. Google key fobs.

People tend to have more problems with the after market ones, both in getting the correct one that will work with your car as well as how long it lasts. Failing after a year is not all that uncommon for the cheap ones.

The car has to be programmed to accept the key fob and you can have as many as 4 key fobs. You can program it yourself. Most places include the instructions. Here they are anyway, just in case:

How to Program The 5th Gen Maxima OEM Alarm Key Fob Remote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

To program the remote(s) follow this procedure.

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the ignition key and completely remove it at least 6 times
within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will
then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push any button on the new remote control key fob once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

arkangelgabriel

Oh ok thats a lot better. Yeah the cooland level will drop some but its normal. Just refill and run the car untill it doesnt drop anymore. Now on the tranny fluid i dont think it dropped because of the radiator, most probably it was low before u did the work. Add some untill it almost reaches the top line ( its best always to leave it just shy of the full line, same with engine oil) and run the car and just keep checking. If u notice either the tranny fluid or coolant level drop after you have refill either enough time then you might have a leak somewhere otherwise you ok.

arkangelgabriel

Dennis on the key subject. Is there a way to programm the key to start the car? I dont have a remote just the key. Nissan here charges me 115 just to programm it to start the car.

mack5158

Thank you very much Dennis.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

No, not realistically. You can get a program for your laptop that will do it but that puppy costs $1700 to $2K. Check with local locksmiths. Many of them do have the program and they usually charge less than a dealer.

And if you only have one key, get yourself at least one spare made and programmed to the car. Too many people lose or break their only key and then they are doubly screwed.

TheDude00

Well I am back again with a couple of questions, but first I wanna say to those of you who have answered me before and who answer everyone else: Thank You So Much for your time and for sharing your knowledge with us.

Now on to the questions. First: I drive a 2000 maxima with a 5 speed and was wondering if it was common for the car to be running at 3000 RPM when going Roughly 75-78mph & around 3100-3300 at about 80mph? While I am asking what is the true, stock, to speed of a 2000 maxima?

Second: Is there any difference between regular stock SE head lights for 2000 and the anniversary addition lights? Fitment wise.

Again thanks for all the help and knowledge guys.

arkangelgabriel

Thx denis. Yeah i only got one key. The second only opens door but havent gotten it programmed to start the car. Ill check with locksmiths to see if they can do it. The story behind it is my wife lockex the key in the car. Popalock was gonna charge like 60 to open the door so i decided to get a second key since i needed it anyways. I messed up the rear right door handle on the insidd thou trying to open it with a cloth hanger lol. I opens from the jbside now only. Gonna open the door on the inside to c what can i do to fix it.

And the question about rpms, sounds about right. mine is auto but i get same rpms more or less. the headlights i dontk since i havent seen any 20th edition yet

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Get a 3rd key made & programmed so you have a spare in the house.

Whenever you get a key programmed to the car, the process starts out by erasing any keys already programmed. This means you want to have all keys with you whenever you have a key programmed.

arkangelgabriel

Thx dennis but ill just take the second one. The key itself is 95...rather put that money into my front end

mack5158

I was able to get what appeared to be an OEM key fob (perhaps in appearance alone?) for $20. Should be here later this week. Your help is much appreciated.

Thanks.

allornothing

After driving my new to me 01 maxima for a month I got a SES light on. I'm assuming it's an 02 sensor, I have to take it in for state inspection saturday and plan on having them pull the codes. If it's one of the 02 sensors what kind of price should I be looking at to replace one? Also will a bad MAF cause the SES light to come on? Thanks for the help.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Don't assume! Either of those 2 things could cause the SES light, along with about another 100 other things. Unless you live in Calif, take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes for you. Most do it free of charge. Maybe then you can have the car fixed by the time you take it for the inspection.

mack5158

Also remember that once they clear the codes, you will need to drive the car for approximately 60-ish miles before you have it inspected for emissions. Otherwise, some of the readings will come back as "not ready" and you'll fail even though the root cause has been fixed.

maxima2500

quick question: are most parts for 00 and 01 max the same? (specifically the abs speed sensor)

arkangelgabriel

Dang they check all that in california? Over here all u need is all your lights to work propetely and your horn lol. Regarding the question usually the car wont give u a code for maf sensor. If your light came is most probably an o2 sensor. Do not buy it from your local part store because it wont work. Get it from the nissan. Someone posted in this forum a sketch of the exahst system with detail of o2 locations (theres 4 total) and which codes belong to which. Look for it. And if ur car is running fine then your maf sensor is good. When maf goes bad there will be noticeable problems that may be cutting off, running rough and in my case car wouldnt have much power.

And the parsts question is yes. 2000-01 use same parts. It changes in 02 when they put the 3.5 engine in max

TheDude00

So I need new headlights on my car, cause the guy I bought it from has cheap knock off halo projectors. My question is: Would Anniversary addition headlights fit and function okay in a 2000 SE?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Most parts, yes. In this case, all 4 sensors show different part numbers between '00 and '01, with no interchange listed. No personal experience trying to swap them, but I know that Nissan does like to change things up just enough to make them incompatible.

That really depends.

No. Don't play odds with the check engine light, considering it's trying to tell you something. The codes must be read, or you're just throwing parts at it.

Sure, if you buy the cheapest parts possible, you may get something that doesn't work so well, if at all. If you buy quality parts, you generally don't have anything to worry about.

Stickies. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-issues.html

No. A bad MAF will not necessarily cause obvious driveability issues, but can set a code just the same. A full or noticeable failure is not necessary for it's outputs to exceed the tolerances that will set a code.

And again, no. There are parts that are different between the two years, not everything is identical.

arkangelgabriel

Lol well i stand corrected. On the o2 sensor thing they not hard to change just gotta know whick one is. And most (if not all) auto parts stores carry generic parts, kinda like general and notspecific to the car. T hats why i recomend nissan parts. Little more expensive but worth it. I say it cause i once changed a o2 sensor in my max from autozone and it just didnt work. Ran an expensive scanner diagnostic and it showed it simply wasnt working. And maf sensor i also said most likely...judging from my experience but i to have a lot to learn... the second time my maf sensor went bad it gave me totally different symptoms i even thought it was coil packs or anything else and still didnt throw me a code....

allornothing

Thanks for the info, I live in PA and they check the tailpipe during emissions. My mechanic is a friend so I'll check with him. The SES light has since gone off, I know it is based on mileage but I've only put 500 miles on it since I got it. I had it checked for codes or pending codes prior to purchasing and nothing appeared. It had sat for most of the year since the owner had passed away so I was half expecting something to pop up once it was being driven daily. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks to all for your input, this is a great forum.
Merry Christmas

dandm42

Well I finally took my 01 Max 20th anv. to the Dealer Ship last night for the crank no start issue: I will update when I receive the call and the diagnosis. $$$

arkangelgabriel

Allfornothing i recommend you changing the o2sensor next time the ses light appears (assuming it is a o2sensor) cause if u dont it might mess up your cat. It happened to me....

And dand you should have brought the car to a trusted mechanic...dealer is gonna drive u broke

arkangelgabriel

Merry christmass to you to man

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Don't assume, it makes an a** of u and me. Take it to any of the big box auto parts places, have them pull the code. Download the FSM online, and troubleshoot using the procedures. They're all well within the capability of people able to follow instructions and use basic tools.

As far as aftermarket parts go, I also would not assume - my $55 Bosch 15727, which fits multiple cars, works fine.

And Dennis is right - the parts for a 2000 and a 2001 might be the same. Looking it up isn't hard. I can tell you that for 2001 and 2000 model years, the O2 sensors are generally not the same, unless the 2000 is a Cali-spec vehicle.

arkangelgabriel

homeyclaus read carefully dude, i didnt tell him to assume it was an o2 sensor that was bad on his car. i told him in case it was an o2 sensor (assuming it is an o2 sensor) to change it using nissan parts. same with the parts 2000-01 as i explained earlier i said most. and when it comes to interchangable parts (like hoses, brake parts etc) its a lot cheaper at the local car parts store but not on sensors. now when you said "bosh" well thats a different issue cause for what i have heard 5th gen max uses mostly bosh parts so that would work.

In another note im not completely sure it is my tie rod ends whats causing the clunking sound and braking vibration. i went under the car (again lol) and noticed the driver side outter tie rod has wayyyy to much play plus the little boot completely tore off. took the pin off and tighten the nut more and test drove it and effectively the vibration (more like something was loose but the nut was very tight already) while braking subsided some. i checked everything else and its all good. the passenger side tie rod has less play but the boot is almost tore off so ill change both while i'm at it. (not yet little tight on money right now) if u have any idea of what else it could be let me know i apreciated greatly.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I read quite carefully. What you write, either because of grammar, tone, or being too general, can easily be construed as an assumption without detailed reading.

Denso parts also work. Both Bosch and Denso make model-specific parts and parts where you re-use parts of the wiring like the original clip connectors. Both work if one pays attention to detail when doing the work. ETA: I understand that if the price is the same or close, it's probably safer better to go with the OEM part. No question.

Where people run into issues is they either get ham-handed with their sensors or they get confused with the terminology differences between the vendors and Nissan.

Wheels balanced?
Lug nuts tight and set to the same torque?
Brake rotors not warped?

A clunk noise when coming to a stop is often something other than a tie rod, like a motor mount or a ball joint.

There is a troubleshooting checklist in the FSM.

If you can feel slack when you move them by hand, they're toast. The manual says to stick a prybar (gently!) in there and see if you see slack.

There should be a cotter pin on the tie-rod end nut. Since there is a lot of vibration (and the consequences of said nut falling off), they're generally secured with cotter pins. If that pin is missing you'll likely have it work loose.

If you end up replacing the tie-rod ends, Moog parts are generally well regarded, and pretty inexpensive. Make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards.

arkangelgabriel

Yeah i think sometimes my grammar fails me. On the front end the clunking noice is when i go thru bumps. It vibrates when i press on the brake and it feels like therez something loose down there (mostly driver side.) had the rotors refaced and didnt solved the problem. Everything else is tight anf solid even the bolt joing. I dont which way u mean with the pry bar but the way i was tought how to check inner tie rods was with a pry bar under the well to check for vertical play. In this case there isnt meaning inners must still be good. now on the outter i can easily move it in a rotating mode back and forth. i lnow tjey should have some play but mine just have to much. and whats fsm? and where can i find it? and moog parts? i wax gonna get the tie rods from the dealer. oh and it couldnt be balancing or bad rim or tire because i dont get any vibration or tire consumssion only vibrates when i brake.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

"Factory Service Manual" - get it at http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2001/

Don't pry on the steering rack (what you call the inner tie rod) unless you feel like breaking it. It's either in there or it's loose, and there is a procedure for checking the gear lash in the rack to see if it's in spec, although you'd be complaining of "sloppy-feeling steering" if it were.

Tie rod ends will be movable by hand laterally, as in rock back in forth. What you're looking for is play between the tie rod end body and the bolt that attaches it to the steering knuckle. This assumes the bolt is tight and has the cotter pin in place.

arkangelgabriel

I didnt mean on the tie rod itself (the whole thing is called stearing rack, meaning the rack and pinion and tie rod ends) but the tire. As in putting the pry bar under the tire having the car on jacks and prying up. Can also be done with both hands one on the bottom and one on top of the tire making presure on botton and pulling on top. There is no play there suggesting inner tie rod is good. The nut is tight with the cutter pin but i didnt check wheter there is play on the outter tie rod itself vertically like you suggested. will do thay next. and thx for the fsm page i appreciated.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

How would a bad inner cause up/down play? The test you're using is not just wrong, it's absurd. Checking balljoints, sure.

The tie rods are a part of the steering system. Therefore, would it not make sense to try to move the wheel in the steering axis (read: side to side) when checking for loose components?

arkangelgabriel

hey you don't have to be harsh about it man, im here to try to help and be helped and absurd as it may sound to you a certified mechanic with years of experience taught me that. worked on my previous car too.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I'm not trying to be harsh but again, that method of looking for tie rod play is indeed absurd.

There is nothing about an inner tie rod that will show play up and down.

If you want to throw around certifications as 'proof' that the method is good, this is also coming from a 'certified mechanic with years of experience': tie rod play presents as side to side movement, not up and down. Unlike a balljoint for instance, which can seem to show play in both directions.

arkangelgabriel

i see your point. im not disregarding either you or my mechanic friend. but i think the reason he said so was (the only one i can think of actually) when the inner tie rod goes bad, the ball part that screws into the rack and pinion may move inside the ball itself and thats where the play comes from when you press down on the lower face of the tire when the car is on jacks. other than that maybe i just misunderstood him. however this method did work on my 98 sentra (totaled it...burned to the ground lol)

dandm42

Well I finally took my 01 Max 20th anv. to the Dealership last night for the crank no start issue: I will update when I receive the call and the diagnosis. $$$





I picked up my Maxima last night and the dealership didn't even screw me. I think. Fuse blown to the Engine Control Module and charged me $125.00


Thanks for everyone’s help!!

maxima2500

Someone busted my side mirror - the triangle part (base) is broken from the door but the mirror is good.
On websites online (eg RockAuto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=364677) its ~$30 but I don't think it includes the mirror, just the housing..right?

Could i just buy that and swap the mirror that i have now?