NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

So I'm assuming you put about 13 gallons in? Or how many gallons did you put in, did you get ACTUAL MPG? Like filling up and resetting the mileage and knowing how much gas you actually put in by reading the pump?

arkangelgabriel

Yeah dude i saw that when i changed mine. I had already ordered moog so i just put them anyways but i kept the oem ones which were in very good shape. If any the oem are better they felt harder than moog when squeezing.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Thats exactly what i felt yesturday driving.. moog bushings made the ride a little softer, The ride on original bushings was harder propably because they were worn out.
My thought

The reason i went with moogs is because i ordered links and bushings together.. they didnt have ES bushings.

LongoTE

Tank was empty, 14 gallons in, reset the trip computer, drove it till empty again. trip computer reads 175. 175/14=12.5mpg. I could probably squeeze it out to 180miles and end up on the side of the road somewhere. I know the more accurate way is to top off, record miles, then top off again but my MPG is so low i dont need to be that precise.

It seems even on days when i barely drive at all the gas needle goes down next time i start it up. Gas cap seems to be in perfect condition and no smell of gas anywhere. The exhaust does have a slight smell when running but what car doesnt? I think its my head imagining "your car is running so rich, gas is just pouring out the tips".

Also im fairly certain the spark plugs and 02 sensors are original. The front 3 plugs look okay. no CEL, always use 93 octane that, sadly, has Ethanol in it. At 122k miles i think most of you are going want me to replace those parts.

Edit: Also. I don't find myself frequently on the highway but when I do I usually reset the MPG calculator and it likes to tell me Im getting 27. Drafting a Tahoe it told me 30. Yet city always rapidly drops it to 15 and if I idle it goes down and down until it reads 6mpg. I noticed this issue last year and "fixed" it by taking the car to redline then i was reading 20mpg. In the city. Didn't work this time.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Does any one know if there are gas stations in NJ that has fuel with no ethanol?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Amazon >> you

smokin5s

ok, I have a few questions...

1.) Does anyone have any recomendations on noise deadening? I have done the typical things I've seen on the post with the window foam, etc... my car has newer tires and I just hear alot of road noise which I wouldn't expect out of a car of this caliber.

2.) I have an oil leak to the right side of the oil pan... I can't find any leak on the motor but if I let the car sit over night, I find a puddle of oil on the ground in the morning. I have recently replaced the oil pan itself as well as the rear valve cover... anything else that would cause it?

3.) Has anyone ever cut a sunroof in these cars? How hard is it? What should I look for when attempting this? (I am pretty handy with tools)

4.) My rear brakes don't appear to be working. When I apply the parking break it will hold just fine, but when driving, I recently put new rotors and pads on the car, but I just see a coat of rust all over the rotors which is telling me that the rear brakes are not working.... any idea what would cause this? The fluid is fine.

5.) when using sea foam which looks like alot of people like around her, Where would I pour it? Just in the fuel tank? Looking on their website it looks like they as saying to pour it in vaccum lines, etc...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Can't help you

The right side of the car is the passenger side, so if the oil leak is on the oil filter side, it could be the oil cooler base that the oil filter screws on to. There is a service bulletin about an o-ring that leaks on those things.

To put a factory sun roof in, you need wire harnesses, switch panel, different head liner (not just cut out, but dropped lower to allow room), have to run a water drain tube. Definately a major, major project. There are some after-market sunroof kits and a few members of the org have tried them and their advice is DON'T.

Never heard of this. Maybe bleeding the brakes might help, but it could be an ABS valve problem. Run the self diagnostic on the ABS system and see if it says anything..

You can do both. Adding to the fuel tank would clean the fuel injectors and adding into a vacuum line cleans junk out of the intake manifold. I'm surprise that the web site isn't more clear.

smokin5s

after looking closer, it looks like it was leaking either above the new oil pan or where the gasket is... I tried tightening the bolts more and split the gasket (I know typically RTV is used, but I actually purchased the gasket and used that along with RTV on the top and bottom of the gasket. so is a gasket really necessary or can I just use RTV? Also, what's the tq specs and is there a specific order that it needs to be torqued in?

Can anyone recommend an inexpensive stealth subwoofer box for a 10 or have instructions on how to make one myself? I have a 10 that's been sitting around for years and I was thinking if I could make a box that looked like it belonged and I could still fold down my rear seats that it would be nice to improve the sound of my stereo.

smokin5s

if it's not my oil pan, then it's either above the oil pan or it's where the oil filter is.

that's a real bummer about the sunroof, I really wanted to put one in.

I'll try bleeding the brakes, I'm wondering if that's where some of the road noise is coming from.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

RTV isn't used just 'typically', it's used from the factory. There should never be a lower oil pan gasket installed on a VQ, nothing but RTV.

As far as torque, both the sequence and spec are unimportant; use your judgement, just don't rip the threads out of the upper oil pan (they're 6mm bolts, no need to go crazy on them).

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Is there oil residue all around the oil cooler? Every VQ (with factory oil cooler) I've seen has either needed a new o-ring, or has already had a new one installed. OE are orange, new are black.

Grab a new o-ring, swap it out the next time you do an oil change; it takes less than a minute to swap out once the oil filter is off, you only need a 22mm deep socket.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

)))

smokin5s

is there a write up so I know what to look for?

my replacement oil pan came with a gasket, that's why I used it... as far as tq specs, since it's such a nasty leak, I'd like to go by the book on this install and go with the recommended specs as well as tq'ing order if there is one.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There was a writeup recently posted, you'll have to search for it. Not really needed, though. Remove oil filter adapter from oil cooler with 22mm socket, replace o-ring on back, reinstall.

Now that you mention it's an aftermarket pan, that could also be an issue itself.

Torque spec is 82-94 in/lb, sequence is basically criss-cross, starting near the drain plug. Diagram is in the FSM, EM-20. Again though, it's really not necessary; of the hundreds of these pans I've put on, I can't say I've ever bothered to bring out a torque wrench, and never had a problem.

Note that without a gasket as you're used to, the torque spec isn't about keeping from crushing the gasket, or pushing it out of place, or making sure that it seals just right; the bolts are torqued such that they hold the lower oil pan in place and won't back out. The RTV will form to any irregularities or uneven areas, whether it be a crappy aftermarket pan, or a bow caused by 'improper' torquing procedure/specification.

madmax215

Hello all I am a 1 year noobie I have a 2000 maxima se 5 speed upgraded the headlights to angel eye hids but wanna up grade fogs to hid or upgraded bulbs.I hear the fogs have to be modified to fit his bulbs.what are my options?

iBURN

Hey yall, I'm new here but have been here for years reading your posts and wanted to thank all of you for your help. Now it comes time where I have a question that hasn't already been answered or I just can't find.

As you all know the OBX headers are some of the best, but affordable, headers out there. I can't find any for the 2000 Maxima but the 02-03 are definitely back in stock with a new, beautiful look.

Here's my question: DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THE 02-03 OBX HEADERS FIT ON THE 2000???

Galactica

iTrader: (5)

Hi Everyone. Also a new guy here. Definitely not new to Nissans and I'm trying to get back in to them. Started with 2 76 Datsun B210's back in the 90's. Then owned an 85 300ZX turbo, an 89 240sx coupe, 92 240sx coupe, 95 240sx coupe, 95 Pathfinder XE 2WD, and 97 Pathfinder SE 4WD. Love my Nissans. Right now I have a little commuter 96 Integra GSR and it's a great, high-revving little bugger, but I will be selling it and am looking to by a 5th Gen Maxima. So my question to you guys:

Of these 2, which would you go for?

2001 20th Ann. Blk/Blk 5-spd 101K $6000 OBO or...
2002 SE Blk/Blk 6-spd 129K $5300

Thanks everyone in advance and I'm looking forward to hopefully buying one of these guys. There is also a 1-owner 03 6-speed complete base model for 7700 but I really would like some options I think.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Nissan added a bunch of changes to the 2002 models, both creature comfort and mechanical. The engine size was increased from 3.0 liters to 3.5 liters and the intake manifold is different. The manual transmission has one more speed and the internal construction of the muffler is different. Radio controls in the steering wheel were added, but I'm not sure if it is a standard feature or only with the premium Bose system. There is a 6 CD changer option that could be installed.

The 2001 AE (anniversary Edition) has some nice trim features that are unique to that model.

The only negative against the 2002 is that sometimes the engine used oil.

As a daily driver, the visual appearance probably would be my highest priority. I would go for the 2001 because of the AE option and the lower miles. but overall condition rules. Have the car(s) checked out by a mechanic and definitely get the OBD codes read. Too many times people remove the light bulb for the check engine light.

Nissan added a bunch of changes to the 2002 models, both creature comfort and mechanical. The engine size was increased from 3.0 liters to 3.5 liters and the intake manifold is different. The manual transmission has one more speed and the internal construction of the muffler is different. Radio controls in the steering wheel were added, but I'm not sure if it is a standard feature or only with the premium Bose system. There is a 6 CD changer option that could be installed.

The 2001 AE (anniversary Edition) has some nice trim features that are unique to that model.

The only negative against the 2002 is that sometimes the engine used oil.

As a daily driver, the visual appearance probably would be my highest priority. I would go for the 2001 because of the AE option and the lower miles. but overall condition rules. Have the car(s) checked out by a mechanic and definitely get the OBD codes read. Too many times people remove the light bulb for the check engine light.

Galactica

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Dennis. I've been reading about the oil consumption of the VQ35 and that would be one of my primary questions. I also do like the special VQ30DE-K motor that the 01 has. I'm sure it doesn't have quite the pep that the 35 does, but it probably goes pretty good. Question: Being the Q-class 3.0L, does it also run chain-driven cams like the VQ35, or are they belt-driven?

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

iv got 01 maxima gle.. and loving it.. great car.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

code P0430

What do you guys i should change first, o2 sensor, or cat converter?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Sensor. You can get a sim instead of a cat.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

i watched my gas needle go from Full to almost empty in little over 200 miles.. would a sim fix that?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

First you actually diagnose the code, see what the problem is.

That should lead you to what needs replacing.

mrmech82

Ok I think this deserves its own thread:

I have a friends 2000 maxima, with an idle issue.
I thought I heard a vac leak, but with two cans of carb cleaner I could not find it.
So I dove in and replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets, along with the TB gaskets. I visually inpected every vacuum hose, checked and cleaned the pcv.
I did a light spray but not a full clean of the TB becaues I notice for some rediculous reason there are coolant lines running into it. And I did not want to create an air pocket or something.
I am in the process of removing the IACV and cleaning it, but someone (eh um.. Nissan) thought it would be clever to use phillips screws instead of something sensible. So for the night I gave up.
But I am at a loss here.
When I start it, it runs great. Idles at about 700 maybe not sure after warm, but once warmed up eventually it will just sputter out.
And I can swear I hear a vac leak. But at this point I am not sure. I checked everything and replaced all the gaskets.
But still I swear I hear air somewhere under the Intake manifold. Its like right under the backside, almost sounds like it is coming from where the back driver side two coil packs are.
But I can not feel any air. I can not get it to show any signs of leakage by way of spraying carb cleaning down in there. And I mean a lot. But nothing.
I am starting to get frustrated and can not seem to make it right.
I did the IA relearn and it seemed to do all that right, but once the idle settled back down a few min. later. Dead.
A little history of the car. It has a 129k. Was last driven in 09. They stopped driving it because of this idle issue.
The car drives great, except at idle. No sputtering or anything, just dies out. And I swear I here a vac leak.
Even when I bump the throttle on the TB I can hear that suck sound. But I just don't know at this point because everything has been checked or replaced. I guess I could replace the PCV instead of cleaning it.
So I am in dire need of some assistance.
And a little background on me, I have been a tech at a used car lot for a few years, and never beside VW have I had this sort of issue. Maybe a QX4 but thats a different story.
I have searched your forums, and have used mitchell but I am still at square one. So I am not bowing down and asking for assistance. Please Maxima Forum People HELP ME!!!

Dj*Bogus*31

ok first of all let me apologise for not explaining properly. I know you guys aint mind readers and dont know whats wrong with the car if we dont give the proper info. Some of us dont know the proper lingo/words to post up. That being said, thats why we are here. We need help and were noobs. If your going to reply with sarcasm or some ignorant comment, why waist your time? For those who try and help....THANKS! We appreciate it. Oh yea after 3 years of my Maxima being down.......she is alive and running well.
Update 2/11/13: In case anyone was wondering it was 4 ignition coils that were bad and a fried ecm. IACV and Engine Mounts were ok. Dont no what could of caused that......wait disregard that comment.lol.. i do remember putting 2 bottles of that crap of radiator pellets to stop the radiator from leaking. To make a story short bought a used ecm from ebay for $190 and had it reprogramed from a Locksmith for $60 bucks. Thats 250 compared to what the stealership was trying to charge me 1200.00 and of course coils aint cheap. Spent about 260 on the coils at oreiley's. So thats about $510 total. Not bad considering the stealership wanted 1800 for the same things.

iBURN

Hey yall, I'm new here but have been here for years reading your posts and wanted to thank all of you for your help. Now it comes time where I have a question that hasn't already been answered or I just can't find.

As you all know the OBX headers are some of the best, but affordable, headers out there. I can't find any for the 2000 Maxima but the 02-03 are definitely back in stock with a new, beautiful look.

Here's my question: DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THE 02-03 OBX HEADERS FIT ON THE 2000???

mrmech82

Realy this is the help I get after 12 hours???
None!
Thanks for being worthless!!!!!
Just like every other automotive forum on the web. Sorry my problem is more indepth and requires some actual mechanical knowledge.

From now on if I have some really stupid question, that means nothing, like tire pressure, or blinker fluid, I will make sure to come back here, so I can ask these geniuses.

Sorry to be rude, but this is dumb. I have to list my issue on the 300 something page thread! Brilliant!
So obviously it is ignored because i am not asking an easy question.

Looks like I have to find another nissan forum, where I can actually post something. Maybe there will actually be some people with mechanical knowledge.

I would say thanks for your time, but obviously I haven't used any.

LongoTE

I apologize for this forum not jumping to action to help Fix your vague problem. Surely you should have a definite answer in less than a day or els this forum is worthless.

I suggest first getting over yourself and your rudeness and secondly try some more research into the problem. My only idea for a fix would be to check your MAF sensor. I cannot ask your car what is wrong with it and I don't know much about fixing problems like that but you sprayed 2 cans of carb cleaner so I'm guessing neither do you. Go tell any mechanic that your car idles fine but sometimes sputters out when it gets warm and see what he has to say if you believe some people have all the answers. Maybe it's a bad o2 sensor but like I say I'm not the most knowledgeable engine guy and IMO you dot deserve an answer anyway.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Just replaced my coil that i got from joesae01max, cleared the codes, and everything seems to be fine.. ses is not on, im sure that will come back in few weeks as i need to replace my sensor.

Dj*Bogus*31

I would have to agree with longoTE. I would check the Maf. These cars have a habit of having issues with the maf. Mine is acting up too... I just put a new maf and my car is acting up when I first start it. Idle between 1200-1500. Then when my car starts warming up idle drops down to 700 and its about to die, then it comes back to normal. Once warm the idle goes back to normal. So check the Maf sensor.

Yoshiltz

Hey everyone. I bought my Max back in Oct.('02, SE, 6sp) and have been kind of wandering around in here a little bit but still haven't been able to spend the time online to actually get all the post I need & find the answers to the questions I have. I bought the car in october and have yet to put 100 miles on it because Ive just been spending so much time at work. The good side of this is that I am making some extra dollars to make a couple mods. What I'm wanting to do is add a VERY conservative drop to it as well as a few bang for buck engine and suspension mods. This car is all stock and I want to get rid of the "floaty" feeling. I considered Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs but I'm afraid that may be overkill for what I am after. I really haven't found enough reviews on entry level setups to kind of know which way to go. can any of you more experienced guys help with this. I only want to drop around an inch and loose the floaties.

cowphin

Hello,

I purchased a 2000 Maxima on Monday evening with approx 120k miles on it. When I was driving it home, I realized that the fuel gauge didn't work. So I topped off the tank and reset my trip counter. I figured since the tank holds 18.5 gallons and that since I'm a new driver doing mostly city driving, that I'd be getting around 16mpg, which means a tank would last me a little under 300 miles. However, last night, as I was driving and out of nowhere my engine stalled out and my brakes wouldn't fully depress. I figured I'd just done something stupid and restarted the car and continued driving. About 4 miles later, my power steering locked up and my car completely turned off. I got the car towed and taken to a mechanic and they replaced the serpentine belt and said that my car had run out of gas. All of this background is leading up to my question, which is, is it likely that there's something wrong with my fuel tank? I'd only driven 200 miles so I should've had another 100 miles on my tank. If there is a problem, is it something that would be fixed by just replacing the fuel gauge, or is it potentially something more serious? Sorry if this is a stupid question, this is my first car and I've had it for 5 days so it's kind of worrying to already have problems.

Thank you!

ForcedTorque

Is there a way I can power up a cluster out of a 2000? I bought one out of the wrecking yard to sell on ebay (or even here) and I am getting questions on milage and traction control.

I've done some searching here, and it looks like it would be able to tell me at least mileage if I could power it on. I couldn't find any info on how to do that through a search.

I'm currently jobless, and trying to feed the family. Please help!(with info) All responses will be greatly appreciated.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you get any pieces of the wiring harness with it? If so, B+ to pins 62 (Y/R) and 66 (OR), then ground to pin 59 (B).

If not, the pins should all be labeled on the PCB.

artr

Hi. Just bought a 2001 SE without any key fobs. After some research, it seems this model may need one of 2 fobs based on the production date. Mine was produced 9/00 so I think I need FCC ID KBRASTU10. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks.

LongoTE

Would a bad PCV valve cause my horrible gas mileage? I went under the hood when the car was idling and clamped the vacuum hose between that valve and the intake manifold. The valve clicked the second time i clamped the hose and then kept clicking like it should every time i clamped the hose after that. I took the car for a spin and now my MPG calculator reads >20mpg when driving like a normal person. I know its not totally accurate but that's a lot better reading than 15mpg when driving like a grandma.

My valve makes a noise that just sounds like air is rushing through it. I thought that seemed normal because air is in fact rushing through a small valve. Can anyone els hear their PCV valve? being at 122k miles i'm just going to replace the cheap part to eliminate that possibility from any future problems that may arise.

Arsen

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys.. 2 days ago replaced coil on cylinder 2, everything was ok untill now. Got into the car to go home from work...started up and there we go again.. tcs on, slip on, check engine blinking.. scanned for the codes, p1320 cylinder 2 again. what should i trouble shoot next?


Thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you replace it with used or new? Aftermarket or OEM?

Are you saying that there was P1320 and P0302, or are you just assuming the P1320 is in reference to cylinder 2 again?