VQP0WER

What was wrong with it?

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Does not work at all. The barrel is jacked is what the mechanic said. Want a big deal at the time because I bought the fob for it. Id like to put a new barrel in it.

candt

Heres a question I couldnt find an answer to while searching the site. What is the little black piece on the door by the window? Wish I could describe it better. It is triangular shaped, and if I remember correctly, its on both front doors.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Seriously? Its called a sail panel (because of its shape) and is removable because it serves as a cover and access panel for the bolts/wire harness for your sideview mirrors.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Can someone tell me what is the name of the seal that should be replaced when you do the clutch...
Rear main oil seal?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There's no seals you need to be replacing when doing the clutch, unless they're leaking. The axle seals aren't a bad idea while the trans is out, though.

The rear main seal almost never leaks, it's usually the half-moon seal between the oil pan and the rear main seal retainer that does. Replacing the rear main involves dropping the upper oil pan, which is a job in and of itself, especially if the trans is out.

Short answer: don't worry about it if it isn't leaking.

IndianScout

I just purchased a 2000 GLE, everything seems to work great, Bose system, a **** for every day of the week.

any way, I'm getting the CEL/TCS/SLIP on constantly, I removed the neg side of the battery for a couple hours and it seemed to go away. but later returned

The car runs beautifully and has 214k on it, Automatic, no miss, stutter or anything, wife put 300 miles on it today going to the city and back.

I live way up in ND with no way to scan this thing unless I buy one, I'm at a loss on where to start because the thing runs great and I don't want to just start throwing money at it...

http://i42.tinypic.com/qz2frc.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2i6hc9.jpg

as you know our winters are harsh up here and can affect everything from abs sensors to door locks..

so with it running great and the lights on I'm at a complete loss..

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

What code(s) are you getting?

IndianScout

how do I check the codes without a scan tool?

L36

iTrader: (4)

How do you disconnect the linkage from the transmission on the 6 speed?

Just take out the 4 smallish bolts holding down the both linkages going to the transmission?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, there's no reason to remove the shift tower (and that involves more than just the topside bolts anyway).

Two cotter pins where the cables meet the shift tower, then two retainer clips where the cable is secured to a bracket. If you're just looking to disconnect the linkage without removing it for some reason, you only need to remove the cotter pins and lift the cables off of the posts.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Yeh, guess that. Just changing the clutch.
Thanks.

HawkeyeEngineer

Hey! I have a question about my 2001 Maxima SE.

Note: This ONLY happens on the highway after driving at high speeds for 25 minutes+ and appears to get worse faster when driving in the heat. The progression of it seemed to slow down when the weather changed to lower temperatures. I've had a diagnostic completed by a local auto shop, they claimed the brake system was fine, but I fail to believe them when I almost kill myself every time I'm on the highway!

The brakes will sink to the floor, but I can pump them back up. It feels like there's air in there, but I've tried testing the master cylinder and it seems to hold pressure just fine when I'm sitting still or at low speeds. Does anyone have any ideas of what it could be or might this still be a master cylinder problem?

Also, I've checked the tires several times after driving around; they all are cool to the touch.

I need to get this resolved or I'll be forced to get rid of my Maxima.

Thanks!

Geoff

VQP0WER

Sounds like your brake master cylinder. If it's leaking, you will loose vacuum pressure. That is what happens when people sometime need to pump the peddle to get good pressure.

HawkeyeEngineer

Yeah, I understand that, but if it was the master cylinder, I'm pretty sure it should be doing it ALL the time, including when I'm sitting at a stop light. Not just in that certain situation; it seems to be temperature related.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Hydraulic components can indeed behave differently at different temperatures, including allowing fluid past the piston seals when at temp, but not when cold. That being said, the master doesn't go through a whole lot of temperature change when driving.

Have you ever changed out the brake fluid? If there's never been any fluid changes it's most likely full of moisture. It's possible that there's a sticking caliper or hose, traveling at high speeds long enough could very well cause the fluid to boil in the lines, resulting in virtually no brake pedal at first.

The tire temperature is pretty much irrelevant to the braking system, you want to be checking how hot the calipers or rotors are after a long drive and coasting to a stop, preferably with an IR temperature gun. Failing that, you could use the temperature of the wheel as a rough indicator.

HawkeyeEngineer

Literally what I was just about to type that. I honestly do not think I've ever changed the brake fluid since having the car, which is about 50k miles and 6 years. Makes me like an idiot! I'm going to go get this done first thing tommorow; do you think any permanent damage has been done at this point? It has only happened probably about 5 times because I've been reluctant to drive those distances with it.

slimI30

I have a 2001 I30 Cali spec, 138k mi on it. I recently replaced my plugs and coil 6. After unplugging the battery for 5 minutes, the car took a lot longer to start than normal. I had O2 sensor codes before unplugging the battery so I thought it was weird that now it starts hard. I replaced bank's 1 & 2's sensor 2, unplugged the battery for 1/2 hr and no more codes. The car starts better but still not great. It still starts harder than it did before and has a slight stumble before smoothing out. Any thoughts?

DOODOOCHIP

did anyone have problems with heated seats, the drivers side on my gle seems to be dying slowly

HawkeyeEngineer

I had this happen with a mass flow air sensor; I had also replaced it with a non-OEM part. I replaced it with an actual authentic part and this seemed to fix it. If the codes come back on, you will know whether or not somethings defective, but it could also be the ECU readjusting to the new sensors?

Seeing as the car started better with the new O2's, the problem probably lies somewhere in there compared to the ignition coil, unless you used a non-standard coil seeing as cars are kind of specific for how much voltage they need to spark the plugs.

Let me know how it goes and if anything fixes it.

slimI30

I replaced the MAF (Nissan part) about 15k miles ago. The O2 sensors are Bosch, but I don't remember the coil brand off the top of my head. Could a bad coil (or wrong brand) cause a hard start, cure the misfire (plus clear the code), and still not throw a code? These cars can sure be picky if that's the case.

Slim

RecklessMaxOwner

I am new to nissan's just bought a 2001 maxima w/ auto trans, I have been researching ways to increase power. I am putting in a custom SRI to get a better sound. The car has a catback exhaust system on it already. I am not looking to turbo or supercharge an automatic unless I convert it. I am asking the forum, what are some ways that I could increase acceleration or any kind of power on this car?

HawkeyeEngineer

Slim,

Its most likely that that is not the case more that I think about it. how hard of a start is it? aka what exactly happens

HawkeyeEngineer

look at other modes of bolt on parts. if you have a catback, get headers and a y-pipe to replace those two restricting cats infront of the main cat. also look into a different intake, the air box sucks on 2000-2002

RLDWV2003

Need advice on 2002 GLE (Tale of Woe)

I have a 2002 Black GLE that's been a commuter car for me for the last several years. It has 228K miles on it, and doesn't owe me a thing. In the last 6 months I've put about $3K in it on new brakes (incl. calipers front and back), new power steering hose (yikes! was it expensive), cooling system flushing, etc. I also had the hood repainted not six weeks ago - the clear coat was about dead - the rest of the paint still looks great. It's got only about 4K on the new tires, Continentals, I think, which, along with two new rims have given me the smoothest ride I've had since I bought it in 2003 with 12K miles on it.

Now the tale of woe. Driving to work at 5:00 am the other morning, the temp guage started to shoot up. I tried to make the next exit, about 5 miles down the interstate (yes, this was stupid). When the temp practically pegged, I decided to pull over and wait. After a tow to the repair shop, they put in a new radiator - the old one had burst open. As they were testing everything with the motor running, they noticed a noise coming from the engine. I've been told that I either bent a rod or slipped/ruined a bearing. The engine runs, but I have not moved the car since.

So, I'm not really sure what to do. The repair shop is offering me $400 for the car, which is 11 dollars LESS than I paid for the radiator work ($411). Considering that the rest of the car is in awesome shape, that seems like a crime to me. However, putting $4500 into installing in a rebuilt or low-mileage replacement engine seems a bit unwise to me.

So, I'm up for suggestions (besides "Find a brain and don't drive an overheating car"). I'm going to take pictures today and post them if/when this site lets me. Thanks for reading,

Bob

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Can you make a video or audio clip of this noise? If it wasn't even driven with the temp gauge in the red, I highly doubt any sort of internal engine damage. I've seen timing chain rattle and even the VQ's loud injector clicking 'diagnosed' as internal engine damage.

If that ever happens again, just turn the heater on full blast, it should cool it down a bit (enough to drive it, depending on what's wrong).

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Replacement engines are 300-800 depending on condition.

I would NOT take that offer. Find another shop or a local org member that can do the engine work for you, or the engine swap for you.

PS sounds like you're overpaying for simple work. $400 for an installed radiator is quite steep, and a PS hose is about $140 + an hour of labor.

RLDWV2003

If you have a caliper sticking, it can generate a lot of heat over time, and if it gets hot enough the brake fluid can literally start to boil. This will give the feeling of air in the brake system (because there is - a gas, actually). It would also explain why the sensation is not there when stuff has cooled down. Just a thought.

RLDWV2003

I've thought the same thing, but don't have any counter information to prove it's way high. Any recommendations on who might be interested would be greatly appreciated. Also, PMOHR, I'll make a video (with audio) today or tomorrow. Can I post it as an attachment as a "new user"?

Bob

RLDWV2003

What's a rough order-of-magnitude estimate to have a replacement engine put in? (I won't hold you to it, I promise! )
Bob

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

For the radiator, ~$150 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd4F4Mj2sZI

No, this forum software doesn't support video attachments (even image attachments require being a supporting member, I believe). YouTube is your best bet.

RLDWV2003

Cool. I'll test my AV skills and post today or tomorrow. I'm debating now whether or not I want to try the 8 mile drive home in the car. I guess the worst that can happen is the engine will seize (which it would have anyway), and I'm waiting for the tow truck driver again.

RLDWV2003

As far as the radiator goes, I don't do too much work under the hood on newer cars - used to do a lot with my old 79 280zx. Even if I did, I was in no position to negotiate, sitting on the side of I-81 with trucks whizzing past me at 80 MPH.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I honestly don't have an estimate, never really looked into it. Really depends on who you go to. My opinion is go with a local org member that knows Maximas and knows the VQ. Check the regional forums to see if there are any local guys that do it. I personally do not know if there are/aren' t.

I know that there are some around the NE - after you post the video and we deem the car drivable, then it might be worth it to come up here for a day or two to have the work done.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Even the PS hose is a DIY job with some basic tools.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Engine R&R pays 11.9, so assuming ~$80/hr average labor rate, labor would be just under a grand at most shops. Including taxes, shop supplies, parts cost for misc gaskets, seals, and fluids...

That's assuming they use the labor rate for R&R complete with no transfer of parts, which is unlikely; there's always something that needs to be swapped over. R&R + transfer of components pays 16.7, which means labor would be ~$1300.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

http://forums.maxima.org/washington-...lers-list.html

RLDWV2003

You guys are awesome, thanks!

DOODOOCHIP

the letters on my shifter dont light up anymore. is it a light bulb or something else? has anyone here done it?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, it's a bulb. Simple replacement. I think it's a 194 wedge bulb.