00nismomax

hey has anyone ever used JET V FORCE mod?

dtp308

iTrader: (3)

Ok really new guy here, question can you just lower the front end(by lowering springs) and not do the rear ones (like the space of the rear kids and bags and all) and will there be any problems associated with this setup. Any help would be appreciated

00nismomax

yea when u drive n take a hard turn or go over somtin on the road ur car slides...i noe bcuz i was drivin lik that for a week

gjaa

ok i deff want to do my headlights and fogs, whats do you guys suggest for them? im dying to get projector/angel eye for both fogs and headlights but i also like the HIDs what do you guys recommend?

i would also like a DIY for the install wheter it is for projectors or HIDs thanks

(yes i did look around for the DIY but theres so many i dont know which one to go by, im horrible at DIYs)

thanks

Sermax02

Quick quest...Can anyone tell me what the average cost is for getting the cattman
header and y-pipe installed??? I'm about to pick up a set and i just wanted to know
how much everything is going to cost when it's all said and done... I have a 2k2 6sp by the way...

labradort

I've searched for info on wheel bearings. It seems we have wheel hubs. Is there any maintenance for those (e.g. repack with grease), or do we wait for a problem and replace?

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Generally it's replace when there is a problem, since they're tough to get at, especially up front, and even just disassembly to get the ball bearings out requires some parts in addition to a seal replacement, IIRC.

theallpowerfulme

bump bump bump

VQP0WER

The Ohm rating should be stamped on the back of the existing speakers magnet, no? I'm guessing in the 2ohm range. You are prolly better off getting after market.

BOSE= Buy Other Stereo Equipment

112690

I have a new OEM rear hub for sale if interested. Send me a PM. Purchased as a precaution due to a stuck caliper causing an overheating brake/hub assembly. I paid ~$100, sell for $50 + shipping.

112690

Newbie so I cannot post. I have a 2000 GXE, 138k miles. For the past six months intermittent lean Bank 1. Cleaned MAF, clear codes and it worked for several weeks. Each time the duration was shorter. After much reseach on this site (Great site) Finally just replaced MAF and had dealer reprogram. Code free for 3 weeks. Last week, new CEL. First code was P0155 (Heater Bank 1), cleared and code free for a week. Now seeing P0174 continuosly.

I have a scan tool, but cannot view O2 sensor output (Is that factory reader only?). Short term offset for B1 & B2 -1.54, Long term ofset 0. Shows B1 in Closed Loop mode and B2 in Open Loop. Mileage is generally 400 tank and at 1/2 tank only 160 miles, so appears to be running rich (due to OL?).

No obvious vacume leaks. Feels like an O2 sensor, but have seen many posts not recommending replacement w/o observing output first.

Recomendations?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

400 to a tank isn't bad even for a 3.0. Seems like an O2 sensor.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Stay away.

seh318

Newb here. 00 GXE 170K, in last 6 months have done struts, ball joints, and sway bar links. new tires and alignment 2 months ago. About a week ago when cornering to the left the car sort of "floats" . My wife describes it as feeling like hitting an ice patch. doesnt happen when turning right and is worse at higher speeds and less sharp turns. its like it is turning then pulls about a foot then continues to turn. Jacked it up found nothing to be loose on either wheel. Any ideas would be a great help.

VQP0WER

I'm jealous. I'll be lucky to get over 280 per tank.

112690

The mileage is due mainly to all highway miles. My wife drive 40 miles to work, so she sets the cruise on 65 and listens to the radio.

When I drive it it gets substantially less. My normal ride is a Miata which requires being driven with your right foot down. When in the Maxima, I love the acceleration which results in greatly reduced mileage. You play you pay!!

teager

New here and just wanted to say thanks for the forum. My 2000 had the P1320 code and my mechanic gave up after replacing coils and checking the wire harness. After reading here and elsewhere on the net I replaced the spark plugs with NGKs (no go) and then the after market coils he had put in (no more code). So now I know two things; 1) after market coils can kick the P1320 code. 2) I can do that work myself. So thank you again for the forum.

charlotter

Hello Guys,

My 2k3 maxima has one issue. Behind driver side, window went down but not going up. First i moved window 4 inches down then tried to close but couldnt so i moved coupled of inches down again and still not going up.
Both switches are not working driver side or the switch on that window.

Please advice. I live in apartment so can't park inside somewhere till monday.

Regards
Owais

Sketchy564

So im new, but i cant make a thread anywhere, im not sure if its needed to be activated, but ive been a member for quite a while. Can anybody help me out?

Nelsito65

You have been a member for quite a while but have not fullfilled the requirement to create a thread on your own; you must create at least 15 posts before you can start a thread. It used to be all explained in the welcome message I got at the time I became a member, including the warning about post-whoring in order to get your minimum post count, and I'm assuming that it was also the case when you did. Must likely you just ignored all that. In the meantime, I gues you are aware that you can post your question or concern right here; that's exaclty the purpose of this thread.

MarkKlooster

Is there a specific part to fill in the frame around the radio? Thanks!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Unfortunately, you have to buy the whole thing (vent assembly for a GXE) depending on the stero you're going with and if yours was a Bose to begin with or now.

Did you snap yours?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/66590-v...956_5834_5835&

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Mine did something like that on highway expansion joints. If the car feels "unsettled" it's probably one or more shocks somewhere. If you're on a budget, do the rears first, since there is no alignment needed, and IIRC those go first on daily drivers - well, they did on mine.

BlackHawk3G

What do u guys think about the Injen RD Series Cold Air Intake RD1935P??

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'd rather get a JWT.

BlackHawk3G

Why would u prefure it more over the Injen?

Jeffrey602

I have an 01 Maxima With 160,000 Miles, an i have no bass in the car, i think my back speaker is out, anyone else encounter this problem?

VQP0WER

It's pretty easy to figure out if your speaker is dead. You put your ear near it. No sound= dead, Clear sound= good speaker.

OEM speakers suck. Replace them all with aftermarket.

Nelsito65

Yes, a lot of us have had that problem. Some have opted for replacing the system with aftermarket units and are very happy with it. Some of us have found a fix for it, getting the Bose woofer cut off problem resolved and finding the stock premium system to be more than adequate.

BigBirdo16

Hey guys I have just bought a used 03' Maxima 5th gen SE 6-speed, so I am fairly new to this type of car and I need you all's help. So I just bought my maxima from my Brother-in-law and it runs great. Other than normal wear and tear to the body and motor it is pretty much in excellent condition. The only problem I am getting is a terrible whine during hard acceleration between 4k and redline and also during neutral revving. This whine get louder with increased engine speed. First i thought it was the belts and after inspecting them they where not misaligned or cracked w/ correct tension. A buddy of mine thinks that it might be a vacuum issue. during my check on the vacuum hoses I found that there are two vac valves under the throttle body that are not attached to any hoses. What are these??!!could this be it? There is no performance issue of any kind, just this Da*n noise that scaring the hell out of me.Please help...!!
this is one of the vac valves and there is another one behind it facing toward the ground, both of which are located under the throttle body.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

overpriced...you are paying for the name and hype...no better than cheaper intakes (like berk)

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

that isnt causing the sound...those arent for vac lines...they are for coolant lines...one in and one out...unless you live in a very cold place, you dont need coolant going through the throttle body so most people cap them off...just a piece of hose and connect it to the "nipples"...

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Those might just be for the throttle body coolant hoses (1 in, 1 out) I used a bypass on mine when I installed my NWP spacers. If those are the spots, you wouldn't have a vacuum leak from nothing plugged on those. I don't have anything there anymore.

Nelsito65

I also had some annoying engine whine that followed the RPM's which partially went away after I replaced my passenger side engine mount. The new mount also corrected other issues, such as a clunking sound everytime my right side went over small speed bumps and a jerking when the car was switching gears. The whine went completely away after I installed a new alternator when the old one died.

cschnider

I've been a member for a while but am still a newbie

I'm considering purchasing a 2002 Maxima that was purchased from Canada. It still has the metric guage cluster. What are my options other than just reading the small mph under the larger kph? Would I need to do a full cluster swap? Any idea on cost?

How about the climate control?

exandr

iTrader: (3)

I'm new, but I have owned 5 Maximas...a 1990 SE, 1998 SE, 2003 SE, and now I own a 2007 SE and just bought another 03 SE. All over a span of10 years. All have had different mods, but nothing performance wise. Mainly sound, suspension, rims, lighting, tint, and other minor upgrades. This 03 is what I will be working on and will be more in depth. It's a 6 spd MT with 98K miles on it, pictures coming soon. It burns oil and has that infamous rattle. When I bought it it had 95,339 miles on it. At 95,800 I changed the oil to Mobil 1 10W-30 Full Synthetic with High Mileage, and a Mobil 1 filter. At 98,570 miles I had to put 2 qts of oil in it...HELP Any suggestions.

exandr

iTrader: (3)

OH YEA...and can someone send me the link to buy the block plate? I NEEEED IT IN MY LIFE

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://www.nwpengineering.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html


Looks as if you have an oil burner. Engine swap or rebuild. Swap = less time & $$.

exandr

iTrader: (3)

Preciate the link.

Not really feeling the engine swap or rebuild. I'm going to keep researching it.

exandr

iTrader: (3)

NmexMAX...with the block plate...once I remove the old one, what about the old block plate and everything connected to it? Those wires are connected somewhere, what do I do with all of that? I just dont want to screw anything up u feel me?