foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Go to the electrical section of the FSM...click on the link below.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/EL.pdf

There is a diagnosis procedure you can follow. I don't know if there is a calibration per se as the speed is set by the voltage from the speed sensor.

As far as the SES light. Do you see it light up when you turn on and start the car? If not, then you could have a bad bulb in the gauge cluster which needs to be replaced.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Go to the FSM and the electrical section...click link below to access the FSM (factory service manual).

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

Keep in mind for 2000 there are two different versions of the FSM depending on your manufacture date. You can determine which one applies to you from your VIN.

The 2000.5 FSM applies to: VINs from YT012237, YT211681, YT527430, or YT740492

The 2000 FSM applies to: VINs up to YT012236, YT211680, YT527429, or YT740491

There is a section on ground wires that you can use as a schematic to trace where it should go. I have no idea where that one goes off-hand..sorry I can't be of more help.

heythere84

It ran fine before the antifouler, It ran worse with them on (exhaust was loud and shakey), it runs horrible with them off (loud, shakey exhaust, very difficult to acelarrate uphill or passed 40 mph.) Could these symptoms even be due to a bad 02? Is it possible I pulled the exhaust loose from the underside of the car (it was a struggle getting the 02 sensors loose). I guess Im curious to see where you would start, as far as being cost effective.
Thanks for the reply!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Well I'm not very familiar with the anti-fouler, but it sounds like you may need to replace the O2 sensors you messed with. The car uses them to adjust the air/fuel ratio among other things. So, that's probably the reason why its running poorly.

You can go with the bosch type from autozone as they will work just fine.

VQUMBIAS

Thanks bro, now i have to find who can get it

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Dealer. You don't have to get the entire MAF assembly, just the sensor. Tell the dealer you want the MAF sensor only. The only caveat is you need a special torx security bit to remove the sensor from the assembly.

VQUMBIAS

I just get the MAF sensor, but it was of 5 "plug" and it brought was 4 (i don know how to upload pics from my phone). Till now is working ok. Lets see how its feel in the weekend!

BDKesling

I think I've read all the vibration threads on here, but I'm still going to ask.

My wife's maxima is a 2000 gle. It had a cold start hesitation that was fixed with a new MAF. Now it has a vibration from the engine or transmission. I took it to the local mechanic and he sent it back saying that he thought it was internal to the engine. I took it to an engine guy, and he said he thought it was probably the transmission. I asked if he would replace the motor mounts and crank pulley, but he didn't want to because he didn't think that was the problem.

So last weekend I replaced the crank pulley, nothing changed with the vibration... so I'm probably going to replace the mounts next. I just want to get some opinions here.

The car has a vibration, it's worse when it's cold. It vibrates regardless of whether it's in neutral or drive. Cruising at 60 mph, the vibration is hardly noticeable. More pronounced on acceleration and deceleration. If I put it in neutral at 60 mph and step on the gas I can feel the vibration. At first I thought that it was going away when the car warmed up, now I notice it regardless of how long the car's been running.

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian

rjfoste12

Ok, so Thursday I bought a 2000 Maxima SE. I got a good deal on the car, it does have high miles on the 3.0 (220k) but the body and interior are in great condition. I knew going in on the sale that I would have to do some work on the car. I have a few issues I need to get some advise on.. I'm not new to working on cars, just this one.
First of all, the Temperature gauge isn't working, just sits on the bottom mark when warmed up... cts?
Second, the car seems to have a bad rear? motor mount.. when shifting from 1-2 there is a hard jerk, and it sounds/feels loose.

There are a few other issues I already worked out, using the search on here and just common sense. ( Replaced 1 coil & plugs, 6x ngk iridium ik, and o-ring for oil cooler)

Just need some advice on the 2 remaining issues
This forum has already helped me with understanding the car better, and I look forward to contributing as well.
Thanks

pics...
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/imag1129u.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/imag1126z.jpg

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I have no idea what you just said.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

In looking at the picture of the gauges those look like gauges from a 2k2 Maxima which could be your issue with the coolant temperature. Do a search for 2k2 versus 2k gauges and see what you come up with. A number of people have swapped gauges out and maybe you'll find some insight.

As far as the motor mounts are concerned you may very well have a bad rear mount if it is original. You can check it with the help of a friend. The engine shouldn't move more than an inch or so under acceleration. The front and rear mounts are relatively easy to change out by dropping the cross member.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The temperature gauge does not use the cts. It has its own sending unit mounted right next to the cts. The cts has 2 wires going to it while temperature gauge sending unit has 1 wire. You can check the resistance of the sending unit. Download the fsm from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

rjfoste12

Thanks for the link. I will check it as soon as the rain/wind stops here. We are getting hit by the hurricaine pretty bad. I tried to drive the car to work this morning and it shut off on me while backing out of the driveway. Also the idle is surging. Going to check for codes as well. No check engine light, but I also don't see it when starting the car.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Bulb's probably burned out or missing, especially if the gauge cluster's been swapped. Not sure which bulb the CEL is But if it doens't come on at startup, check the car for codes as you were planning.

If you have a Knock Sensor code, know that it's not imperative you replace the KS, as the KS usually won't screw up the car's running performance enough to trigger the light by itself.

rjfoste12

Going out now to check the codes since the hurricane finally calmed down. I'll post the results.. quick question though, is the o/d light supposed to flash approx 10times when starting the car? Seems strange and I didn't know if this was some sort of diagnostic message.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

NO it's NOT supposed to flash...it's telling you there's an issue with the tranny.

rjfoste12

Grrreeaatt The car seems to shift smooth and doesn't slip (when its running) Tried to pull the codes and the scanner came back with "can not communicate with ecu"

rjfoste12

Update: Car will not stay running more than a few seconds. Very erratic idle and surging. From searching, I thought it could be the MAF sensor, unplugged it and the same problem exists. I guess i'm going now to go buy a new code scanner. Read on here the one I use doesn't work well with our cars. (ELM327)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

If you unplugged the maf and no real change in idle, maf could be an issue.

on getting a new scanner.

rjfoste12

Well, got a new scanner and WOW. Needless to say, I'm pretty sure somebody removed the CEL Bulb.
Codes:
P0100-Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Error
P0400-Exhaust Gas Recirculation Function- No/Low Flow Detected
P0161-Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2
P0740-Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Fault

Please help!! I know this a lot of work, but the car is mine now, I have every intention of fixing it properly and just need to shed some light on these codes as far as whats causing the car to surge/ shut off. Also, I'm not sure about the MAF and o2 codes, because I did unplug them while "troubleshooting"

I did clear the codes and left the vehicle running for a good 10 mins or so with no stalling. Idle is still erratic, but it stayed running.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Clean the MAF. That might help a bit. Get some aerosol MAF cleaner.

Clean out the EGR tube, chances are it's clogged. Search around for the procedure on how to do this.

Ignore the rear o2 FOR NOW.

Torque converter fault, that's the one that's making your trans act up (and pop with the o/d flashing sequence on startup). How's the fluid and condition of the trans look?

rjfoste12

Ill start on this now.
Trans looks good. Its clean outside, fluid doesn't smell burnt, proper level and it shifts smooth (when the motor is running properly)
Going to get some MAF cleaner now. I might also clean the iacv and throttle body while i'm doing it. Doesn't seem like the previous owner really took care of it.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

yes, clean that all out. May as well do it when you're doing the EGR anyhow, y'know

BDKesling

I'm still looking for clues on this one if anybody can help.
Thanks,
Brian

svdalpha

I am a newbie here. my 2000 Max GLE has recently been shwoing start-idle probelms. on past 2 cold mornings ( dallas, TX)- temp ~ 42 F, car starts normally- rpm ~ 2K and then slowly reduces towards idle- but does'nt stop at idle - goes down and dies. trying to work the accel to keep it up causes misfiring/backfiring sounds and dies. 2 mornings had to start the car more than 10 times ( till it got a little warmer?) and then it did idle. once the car runs, no problem of starting and stopping/ idling. seems to be be temp related to cold engine/cold air. took it to the dealer who says IAC motor needs replace and also no guarantee without replacing ECM which may (?) have caused it - $1900. I think they are BS-ing. anybody had similsr experience. need help and detailed instructions to remedy. reading some of these posts i am encouraged we can fix this thanks for any advice.
svdalpha

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

What gear are you in and what RPM are you running at 60MPH? Try different gears and see if that changes anything with the vibration symptoms.

You may want to try adding the TC-W3 to your gas. Check the thread in the general discussion as the additive does help lessen engine vibration.

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...troke-oil.html

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Do a search for IACV...you will find a plethora of information in the 5th gen forum on this issue.

BDKesling

It's an automatic transmission. If I turn off overdrive at 60 it vibrates strongly on the downshift. The vibration is consistent under a load in every gear. It's also there in neutral. Are these symptoms consistent with a bad motor mount? The mechanic had the car on the lift and looked at the motor mounts, but I don't know his level of competency with a 2000 maxima. I'll try the additive.
Thanks,
Brian

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This is the time of year when a bad ECTS starts to cause a problem. ECTS is engine coolant temperature sensor. If the ECTS is saying that the temperature is warmer than it actually is, then the ECU is giving the engine a too lean mixture of gas. There is a resistance measurement (ohms reading) you can make without remove the temp sensor. All you need is an ohmmeter and know what the temperature is. Do this in the morning when the engine is cold.

rjfoste12

Well I finally tore in to this tonight and the egr tube is completely blocked. I'm taking the Upper intake manifold off as well while I'm in to it to clean the whole thing out. There is a bracket on the back where an AC line attaches, do you know if that needs to come off to pull the intake manifold? seems like that's what is holding it up. Got late so i stopped for the night. It is crazy how many vacuum lines are involved in this. Anything else I should change while I'm tore in to it? (besides gaskets)

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Definitely sounds like a bad motor mount given it vibrates harshly on downshift. The mounts are relatively easy to inspect as you are looking for any tearing or the bushing portion.

Most people see the front or rear mounts go bad first, but it could very well be your driver side mount given the symptoms you are seeing. If you remove part of the intake you can see the driver side mount pretty easily under it. This is one of the easier mounts to change.

Keep in mind they are electrical motor mounts so you can't really go with aftermarket, although I think some people went with 2k manual transmission mounts, but I believe that only works with the front/rear and passenger side mounts.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Inspect all vacuum lines. If any of them are brittle or have cracking replace them. Consider replacing your intake manifold and throttle body gaskets. Change out PCV valve as well. Be mindful of the rubber grommet around the valve as that tends to get brittle and break apart with some bits ending up in your intake manifold (ask me how I know).

If you have a shop near you consider taking the intake manifold to them for cleaning. If you do this you'll have to remove the VIAS actuator and any other rubber parts. A shop near me did the cleaning for $10.

As far as taking off the intake manifold, did you remove the two bolts in the back? You can't see them, you have to feel for them. See the attached picture; I circled the bolts in red.

MonsterMaxima

Hi all, I bought a 2001 Maxima SE last week and I believe there may be a problem with the tranny. If I am accelerating slowly or pretty heavily between 17-19 mph the car shifts really hard. Even when accelerating slowly around 17-19 mph the engine's RPMs will jump from 1500 or so to 2500 then shift hard and then the RPMs will drop back down again.

Its clearly an automatic, 88,000 miles. Only check engine code is for an O2 Sensor. It is in bank 1 but I do not see how an O2 sensor would affect the transmission shifting. Already brought it to a mechanic and had the transmission fluid changed but no luck. I'm hoping it is not a major problem and is just a solenoid or something because I like the car and do not want to have to return it. Any ideas or suggestions to check?

Edit:
So after reading forum after forum, it seems the problem is a bad valve body. Can anyone confirm this and whether the entire valve body has to be replaced or if just using a Transgo Shift Kit will suffice

BDKesling

Thanks for that help, I'll check it out this weekend and report back.
Brian

Timothy YCH

im new to this forum. i have friends told me about this for long long time, but just lazy about opening an account lol. Plus i found no other forum are more complete about maxima than maxima.org...
Anyway ...i have a 5th gen max with 300zx turbo front break kit but with stock for rear and my question is
1. what is the stock diameter for front and rear rotor?
2. im looking to upgrade my rear brake, most likely slotted rotor and a bigger caliper.... any suggestion?
3. im looking at EBC ultimax slotted brake rotors anyone have any experience using them?

rjfoste12

I pulled the intake manifold tonight. Back bolts on the drivers side are NOT fun. Also cut off the end of the bolt for the egr tube bracket, removed the tube and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. The tube was completely blocked. Could this be what was causing the car to stall at idle? Either way, its clean now, along with the throttle body and IACV. Going to the dealership in the morning to try and get some gaskets. I hope this fixes my issue..

saegus

I recently acquired a 2000 GXE and was wondering if there was anything that I should know in your opinion about the car that you wish you would have know right from the start, e.g problem areas, parts that are worth upgrading, etc. Any tips would be much appreciated. If there is a post or sticky that already covers this, please direct me to it as I was unable to find one but that doesn't mean its not there. Thanks.

rjfoste12

Honestly this thread would probably be the best place to find that info. For me, about a week after buying mine it started surging very bad and shutting off about 1 min. after starting. My EGR tube was completely blocked with carbon. I removed everything from the intake manifold and up and cleaned it all to be on the safe side. runs like new now.

we8rice1

alright.. so im 18 and my first car happens to be a 02 sterling mist, gle maxima. i absolutely love it. i havent touched any of the suspension or performance parts of the car; only lighting. 6000k hid fog kit

i wanna know if my car could pull off black rims (via plasti dip). i would probably put some glossifier on it too. opinions please?

i also dipped the grille, and side markers (possibly dumb but i like it). in the future i plan on blacking out the headlight housing, putting black on the chrome window trim and hopefully tints.



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djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Plasti-dip is a good non-permanent option for trying out different colors on your wheels. Plenty of people have black wheels. It comes in spray can form as well - I'd go that route for your wheels.

Welcome to the forum, and ping me when you're ready to do suspension. I'm local to you, do installs for local org members, and know quite a bit about Maxima suspensions.