5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
You can get the mount at just about any auto parts store. Since this is what holds the engine in place, it requires a reasonable amount of BS&I (Brute Strength and Ignorance. You have to lift up the engine to take the weight off of the mount so you can change it.
^^ A small floor jack is all that is needed to hold the engine up while removing the motor mounts. You can remove a maximum of 2 at a time.
..But I'm not sure what the passenger rear mount is. It's either the passenger mount, or the rear mount. And based on the diagnosis that it's leaking oil, I'm going to assume it's the rear torque mount. Since this is the case, the engine crossmember should be removed altogether, and both F&R mounts should be done at the same time. Might as well since you're doing the labor, eh?
..But I'm not sure what the passenger rear mount is. It's either the passenger mount, or the rear mount. And based on the diagnosis that it's leaking oil, I'm going to assume it's the rear torque mount. Since this is the case, the engine crossmember should be removed altogether, and both F&R mounts should be done at the same time. Might as well since you're doing the labor, eh?
Im new and need quick HELP
Couple of months back bought a 02 Maxima 6 spd. My buddy was selling his old hot shot headers and cattman catback. He had o2 sims replacing the rear o2 sensors on the after market headers. He had sold the car with the Sims on it and now I can not find any. I have looked and searched for sims on different threads to come up empty handed on finding where to buy them anymore. I know of o2simulators.com but they're still on back order and my inspection is up next month. I have found websites on o2 bungs and spark plug defoulers but I don't really want to drill a hole in the exhaust and weld on.
New to the Issue, but need help.
Just started having problems with this sensor. Bought my Maxima used, so I have no idea if the original owner had this checked. Looked up the recall notice and doesn't seem to fall under my VIN. The recall notice describes my problem and trouble code. I go to replace the part and guess what I break the damn pigtail harness. I can NOT find this pigtail anywhere so I rigged the pigtail and electrical taped it up. Someone help me find this damn pigtail I've looked everywhere. Camshaft position sensor bank 1 but not sure what the pigtail part # is, since I can't find it anywhere.
Hello.
While doing the clutch today, Ive noticed that my whole power steering pump was covered in power steering fluid. Ive inspected the hose and any other connections around it. Its obvious the pump is on its way out as my steering does whine.
Anyway, if anyone has any advice which pump is better, either this, or this or this one?
Second, which AT fluid should be used in the power steering in the 01 maxima? Dexron 2 or 3?
Thanks.
While doing the clutch today, Ive noticed that my whole power steering pump was covered in power steering fluid. Ive inspected the hose and any other connections around it. Its obvious the pump is on its way out as my steering does whine.
Anyway, if anyone has any advice which pump is better, either this, or this or this one?
Second, which AT fluid should be used in the power steering in the 01 maxima? Dexron 2 or 3?
Thanks.
Hello.
While doing the clutch today, Ive noticed that my whole power steering pump was covered in power steering fluid. Ive inspected the hose and any other connections around it. Its obvious the pump is on its way out as my steering does whine.
Anyway, if anyone has any advice which pump is better, either this, or this or this one?
Second, which AT fluid should be used in the power steering in the 01 maxima? Dexron 2 or 3?
Thanks.
While doing the clutch today, Ive noticed that my whole power steering pump was covered in power steering fluid. Ive inspected the hose and any other connections around it. Its obvious the pump is on its way out as my steering does whine.
Anyway, if anyone has any advice which pump is better, either this, or this or this one?
Second, which AT fluid should be used in the power steering in the 01 maxima? Dexron 2 or 3?
Thanks.
Use the Dexron III, it is the current version and is backwards compatible.
But are you certain that it is the pump? Have you had to add oil to the reservoir? I bring up this point because if the valve cover gasket leaks, it would cause the p/s pump to be covered in oil.
Sorry, no opinion on the p/s pump.
Use the Dexron III, it is the current version and is backwards compatible.
But are you certain that it is the pump? Have you had to add oil to the reservoir? I bring up this point because if the valve cover gasket leaks, it would cause the p/s pump to be covered in oil.
Use the Dexron III, it is the current version and is backwards compatible.
But are you certain that it is the pump? Have you had to add oil to the reservoir? I bring up this point because if the valve cover gasket leaks, it would cause the p/s pump to be covered in oil.
The whine does not guarantee that the pump is bad. Can you tell by the color of the oil? ATF is usually red, so if you wipe off some oil with a paper towel, hopefully you can tell that way.
Yes the oil off the pump is red and Ive checked my boots just to be sure, they are not ripped anywhere.
Hello all I am new to these forums, I am currently looking at getting some new wheels for my 2002 Maxima I am probly going to get some 19inch konig airstrike's I was wondering if anyone know what the maximum off set i could get while still allowing for the wheels to tuck into the fenders a bit, I have a coilover suspension so it is lowerd.
For all 4 of these features, the question is if the wiring is present.
Heated seats - yes, the harness is already present under your seat.
Memory seats - perhaps, if the harness is in your door/under your seat. You'll likely need to buy the memory button module and either buy a door panel or cut your existing one.
I'm not sure about the heated steering wheel or the TCS.
These are the type of frills features that will probably be expensive for you and not give you much return.
Personally I'd concentrate on other things, like stiffening up the suspension, or making the Bose system sound better, or perhaps a little bit of performance.
Heated seats - yes, the harness is already present under your seat.
Memory seats - perhaps, if the harness is in your door/under your seat. You'll likely need to buy the memory button module and either buy a door panel or cut your existing one.
I'm not sure about the heated steering wheel or the TCS.
These are the type of frills features that will probably be expensive for you and not give you much return.
Personally I'd concentrate on other things, like stiffening up the suspension, or making the Bose system sound better, or perhaps a little bit of performance.
I'd like your opinion on this. I knew that for the 3rd gen maxima, Nissan actually specified Dexron ATF for the power steering. I had never looked at the specs for the 5th gen until you answered jdaddy89. Here is what is in the 2001 FSM, MA-11 -
"Genuine Nissan PSF, Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid, DexronTM III/MerconTM, or equivalent ATF may also be used."
So my question is, when you look at all of the acceptable choices, especially the "Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid", do you think that the "Genuine Nissan PSF" might just be Dexon ATF under another name?
"Genuine Nissan PSF, Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid, DexronTM III/MerconTM, or equivalent ATF may also be used."
So my question is, when you look at all of the acceptable choices, especially the "Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid", do you think that the "Genuine Nissan PSF" might just be Dexon ATF under another name?
I'd like your opinion on this. I knew that for the 3rd gen maxima, Nissan actually specified Dexron ATF for the power steering. I had never looked at the specs for the 5th gen until you answered jdaddy89. Here is what is in the 2001 FSM, MA-11 -
"Genuine Nissan PSF, Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid, DexronTM III/MerconTM, or equivalent ATF may also be used."
So my question is, when you look at all of the acceptable choices, especially the "Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid", do you think that the "Genuine Nissan PSF" might just be Dexon ATF under another name?
"Genuine Nissan PSF, Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid, DexronTM III/MerconTM, or equivalent ATF may also be used."
So my question is, when you look at all of the acceptable choices, especially the "Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid", do you think that the "Genuine Nissan PSF" might just be Dexon ATF under another name?
Come to think of it I don't think I've ever looked at a factory filled reservoir to see what the fluid looks/feels like. I bet if you were to buy a bottle of the OE PSF it would be like most any other power steering fluid, clear and a bit lighter in viscosity than ATF.
Whats the proper procedure in bleeding the power steering system?
Add fluid, start the car, add more until no more is sucked in. Turn off car, jack up the front and turn the wheels side to side. Start the car again, top it off and repeat til whine is gone?
Add fluid, start the car, add more until no more is sucked in. Turn off car, jack up the front and turn the wheels side to side. Start the car again, top it off and repeat til whine is gone?
Now that I look at it, that's also the procedure indicated by the FSM.
I always fill the reservoir, turn the wheels lock to lock a few times, repeat until it's not taking any more, then start it up and go lock to lock again to check for noise or roughness in the steering. This is with the front end raised up, of course. Makes it a lot easier.
Now that I look at it, that's also the procedure indicated by the FSM.
Now that I look at it, that's also the procedure indicated by the FSM.
So i replaced the clutch along with the pump because of much better access to the pump while the CV join is out.
Going to jack the car up tomorrow and do the bleed properly.
Motor Mount Question - 2001
I am looking for replacement motor (torque) mounts for my 2k1... the radiator (front) and firewall (rear) mounts only. I have an auto but want to put in the standard (non-electric) mounts.
Question is: where is best? Most sites are confusing, not sure I'm getting the right thing. Some sites have a separate new mount bracket listed, saying the original doesn't work anymore... is that true?
Any links to good sites or part no's I can look for?
Thanks very much...
Question is: where is best? Most sites are confusing, not sure I'm getting the right thing. Some sites have a separate new mount bracket listed, saying the original doesn't work anymore... is that true?
Any links to good sites or part no's I can look for?
Thanks very much...
Last edited by buddywh1; 09-02-2011 at 09:47 AM.
I am looking for replacement motor (torque) mounts for my 2k1... the radiator (front) and firewall (rear) mounts only. I have an auto but want to put in the standard (non-electric) mounts.
Question is: where is best? Most sites are confusing, not sure I'm getting the right thing. Some sites have a separate new mount bracket listed, saying the original doesn't work anymore... is that true?
Any links to good sites or part no's I can look for?
Thanks very much...
Question is: where is best? Most sites are confusing, not sure I'm getting the right thing. Some sites have a separate new mount bracket listed, saying the original doesn't work anymore... is that true?
Any links to good sites or part no's I can look for?
Thanks very much...
Front by radiator = Insulator engine mounting, front right-hand
Rear by firewall = Insulator-engine mounting, rear
Manufacturers will change the way something is made or maybe the materials used or various other reasons. The manufacturer than uses a different part number to identify the new version and also stops making the old one. To say the old ones won't work is not accurate. All the versions will fit and work, it's just that you can't buy the old one version any more. They have been sold and no more are available because the manufacturer does not make the old version anymore.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=AYZ062M1ZWK81
But this site suggests I need a new front mount bracket:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1624579.html
That site also has the same (appearance-wise) front and rear mounts as is in the picture in the first site, but quite a bit more expensive since I don't get all four in the case that the pass. and driver side are also bad.
Thanks for your help!
OH YES... I know these are probably not the best performance-wise. But I'm not interested in urethane solid mounts like the ES. Nor electric ones that go bad and fry the ECU (or so I'm told) so I'll live with the extra vibration at idle. If they last another 60-70K miles I'll be peachy fine!
Last edited by buddywh1; 09-02-2011 at 12:09 PM.
This is what I'm looking at right now. It's a kit with all 4 mounts, I'd use only the front and rear mounts since that's what I believe to be bad.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=AYZ062M1ZWK81
But this site suggests I need a new front mount bracket:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1624579.html
That site also has the same (appearance-wise) front and rear mounts as is in the picture in the first site, but quite a bit more expensive since I don't get all four in the case that the pass. and driver side are also bad.
Thanks for your help!
OH YES... I know these are probably not the best performance-wise. But I'm not interested in urethane solid mounts like the ES. Nor electric ones that go bad and fry the ECU (or so I'm told) so I'll live with the extra vibration at idle. If they last another 60-70K miles I'll be peachy fine!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=AYZ062M1ZWK81
But this site suggests I need a new front mount bracket:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1624579.html
That site also has the same (appearance-wise) front and rear mounts as is in the picture in the first site, but quite a bit more expensive since I don't get all four in the case that the pass. and driver side are also bad.
Thanks for your help!
OH YES... I know these are probably not the best performance-wise. But I'm not interested in urethane solid mounts like the ES. Nor electric ones that go bad and fry the ECU (or so I'm told) so I'll live with the extra vibration at idle. If they last another 60-70K miles I'll be peachy fine!
Since you are going to buy all 4 mounts, what they are called no longer matters. And since no 2 mounts are made the same way, you can't get the positions mixed up. Get the set of 4 and you will be all set to crawl under the car and get dirty.
Another thing.
Since Ive replaced the clutch recently, it feels like when i press the clutch pedal all the way while accelerating hard, the clutch disk seems to be touching the pressure plate fingers, due to the weird vibration i get on the pedal.
Is this normal for a new clutch?
Since Ive replaced the clutch recently, it feels like when i press the clutch pedal all the way while accelerating hard, the clutch disk seems to be touching the pressure plate fingers, due to the weird vibration i get on the pedal.
Is this normal for a new clutch?
The 2nd link is the bracket that bolts on to the transmission and then the motor mount attaches to that. That bracket is on the driver's side of the car. Unless the old one is damaged, you don't need that part.
Since you are going to buy all 4 mounts, what they are called no longer matters. And since no 2 mounts are made the same way, you can't get the positions mixed up. Get the set of 4 and you will be all set to crawl under the car and get dirty.
Since you are going to buy all 4 mounts, what they are called no longer matters. And since no 2 mounts are made the same way, you can't get the positions mixed up. Get the set of 4 and you will be all set to crawl under the car and get dirty.
2000 Nissan Maxima test drive
I test drove a 2000 Maxima yesterdy...one owner car, 185K, in really good shape. I absolutely loved the car, but I did notice one problem with it. While driving on the highway, or around town, it sounded great, but when I would come to a stop light, the idle was quite rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders. The RPM's dropped 1 or two hundered while it was idling rough as well. You could feel a substantial vibration in the car when it was doing this. After doing some research on this, it seems the coil packs are a possibility. However, there was no "check engine" light on. Will there be a code that can be read to figure out what the issue is even though the check engine light was not on? Other than this issue, the car had excellent power, the engine sounded great.
I test drove a 2000 Maxima yesterdy...one owner car, 185K, in really good shape. I absolutely loved the car, but I did notice one problem with it. While driving on the highway, or around town, it sounded great, but when I would come to a stop light, the idle was quite rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders. The RPM's dropped 1 or two hundered while it was idling rough as well. You could feel a substantial vibration in the car when it was doing this. After doing some research on this, it seems the coil packs are a possibility. However, there was no "check engine" light on. Will there be a code that can be read to figure out what the issue is even though the check engine light was not on? Other than this issue, the car had excellent power, the engine sounded great.
I test drove a 2000 Maxima yesterdy...one owner car, 185K, in really good shape. I absolutely loved the car, but I did notice one problem with it. While driving on the highway, or around town, it sounded great, but when I would come to a stop light, the idle was quite rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders. The RPM's dropped 1 or two hundered while it was idling rough as well. You could feel a substantial vibration in the car when it was doing this. After doing some research on this, it seems the coil packs are a possibility. However, there was no "check engine" light on. Will there be a code that can be read to figure out what the issue is even though the check engine light was not on? Other than this issue, the car had excellent power, the engine sounded great.
Where would be a good place to run the power wire for an amp? I don't want to drill any holes and I would rather not go through one of my wheel wells, there isn't one of those rubber things somewhere on the passenger side?
HELP with ignition coils!
Changing plugs on my 2k1 this weekend and the boot of one ignition coil separated and stayed behind on the plug. I tried to pull it out with an o-ring hook but it seems mostly to want to come apart. So, being afraid I'd never get all of it out, I just put the coil back in.
With 5 new NGK iridiums and one old platinum opened up to 55 (where the rest were, at least) it's running OK for now.
Question is: has anyone had this occur? It is in the worse possible position: right bank (next to the fire wall), last plug (driver end).
What can I do to fix this without taking the valve cover off?
Thanks a bunch!
With 5 new NGK iridiums and one old platinum opened up to 55 (where the rest were, at least) it's running OK for now.
Question is: has anyone had this occur? It is in the worse possible position: right bank (next to the fire wall), last plug (driver end).
What can I do to fix this without taking the valve cover off?
Thanks a bunch!
so im just wondering what are the *mods* or things to do to a 01 maxima that most would consider a must. Or if you dont have any mods that *need* to be done what about like the top 3... exhaust, rims, styling, cpu, engine... whatever it is I'd like to know to help make my decision on what car to buy. thanks and opinions are welcome
not familiar with maximas but im sure it has a firewall you can go thro or a rubber grommet. The other wires have to get inside somehow right? just take a look it wont be hard
I test drove a 2000 Maxima yesterdy...one owner car, 185K, in really good shape. I absolutely loved the car, but I did notice one problem with it. While driving on the highway, or around town, it sounded great, but when I would come to a stop light, the idle was quite rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders. The RPM's dropped 1 or two hundered while it was idling rough as well. You could feel a substantial vibration in the car when it was doing this. After doing some research on this, it seems the coil packs are a possibility. However, there was no "check engine" light on. Will there be a code that can be read to figure out what the issue is even though the check engine light was not on? Other than this issue, the car had excellent power, the engine sounded great.
The owner could have recently reset codes so the light is out. It can take several drive cycles before the ECU determines there's a fault. BUT, a good code reader will tell you that the car hasn't completed all necessary drive cycles too!
IMO, anyone buying a used car should take a code reader along and read codes as part of the test drive.
http://forums.maxima.org/parts-sale-wanted-41/
Last edited by DennisMik; 09-05-2011 at 06:41 PM.
Try looking in our parts for sale thread. AND please don't be posting the same thing in 2 forums, we don't like that.
http://forums.maxima.org/parts-sale-wanted-41/
http://forums.maxima.org/parts-sale-wanted-41/
and thanks, sorry im new lol wont happen again
is there anywhere for noobs like me to post?