djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

1. Ease up on your caps.
2. Use proper punctuation.

Do the above and people will start to take you seriously.

I was referring to your struts, mounts, boots, AND springs, not just springs. The new parts should have been installed at the time of the struts, that's the right way to do it. If you don't have funds to do it right, then it shouldn't be done at all. Quality costs money. But that's just my opinion, of course.

All I can do is offer my sound advice based on the significant more experience in Maxima suspensions I have over you. But in the end, it's your car, your money (or, credit card), your decisions.

Best of luck.

NEWMAXIMA2K

Djfrestyl: I know you are a great guy. I read all the good stuff people said that you provided service for. Thank you very much for your experienced advice. Cannot even ride my car because the ball joint so blown out. Thank you for the sound advice. You do have more experience than me. I just was explaining my situation kinda sucks, (no cash) and do not mean to joke around or offend anyone. You guys already saved me thousand dollars of labor.

jptmaxima

In the FSM, it says to torque rear brake hose connecting bolt to 12 - 14 ft-lbs.
Is that enough? doesn't seem like much.

dkim1004

Hi, I got a 2000 Maxima with engine lights blinking. The engine hesitates and shakes. I checked the sparkplug boots and changed the engine camshaft position sensor. Problem has not gone away. Any suggestions?

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

You sir have a misfire. Have auto zone scan the car and figure out what coil or plug is no good.

dcam0326

What drama said, and don't drive around on it! It will torch your catalytic converters which is what happened to me. Had to gut them and it is NOT fun pulling the whole Y pipe off of an 11 year old car. Getting it back on is another story.

I have emissions in a month too. Guess I have to try the o2 sims =/

00maxboy

so today im driving my 2k maxima and the car feel like it lost alot of power like if I step hard on the gas it will stay at 30 miles for like 7 second then jump to 40 but if I drive slow everything is fine can someone help me......thank you

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

is your check engine light on? Is it functional on startup? Have you checked for codes?

Based on the (very) limited info you posted, I'm guessing your MAF is toast. But that's just a wild-azz-guess until we get more info from you

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

It is a guess but a good one at that.... I'd say MAF as well. I've gone through enough of em on my 2002 to know those symptoms!

pecomaxima

does anyone know where I can get a working link to the copy of the fsm that is mentioned on here?

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima

BinaryStar

I'm completely inexperienced with working on cars, but I decided to undertake replacing the radiator and thermostat on my 2003 Maxima myself.

While I was draining the radiator, I accidentally let the dark brown/red liquid from the little hose that connects the transmission cooling line to the bottom of the ratiator (AT line) drain as well.

I'm not sure exactly how much came out, but I let it drain until it stopped dripping. Does this mean that all my transmission fluid is gone?

And what should I do now? Do I need to refill it before driving, or can I drive it a couple of miles to the nearest Valvoline to have it done there?

Mikel81

Yes, that is the AT cooler line. You should have held it up to minimize fluid loss. I would check and top off the trans fluid before driving it.

TriniSpeC

powersteering fluid

FanaticMadMax

no it not powersteering fluild going through the radiator. Powersteering fluid has a separate line that wrap around in front of the a/c condensor. Yes, Power Steering fluid used ATF.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Correct. Power steering fluid doesn't flow through the radiator, while tranny fluid does.

OP you didn't drain ALL your fluid, just be sure to check and top off before driving, as mentioned earlier.

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

+1

Ryan5439

The other day I found I was very low/out of transmission fluid. I was probably so busy checking the oil all the time that the transmission fluid slipped my mind lol... Anyway, this is the sound i'm getting after revving and sometimes while driving. Once I started hearing the noise is when I re-filled the transmission fluid - but the sound persists. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Pilm

Can't tell anything from the vid, but hows the shifting feel, better after refilling? And how much fluid did you refill, couldn't have been anywhere near 10 quarts unless you really were out, but then your transmission would have completely died, so you were prob just little low, right? Did you scan for codes?

Ryan5439

No error codes. The last code I had was camshaft sensor. (both replaced) Another thing I forgot to mention is after the engine heats up and I'm driving for a bit one of the cylinders starts to misfire - only when I give the engine some load. Idling is fine. I'm not sure If they are related... I just replaced the ignition coils and plugs about a year ago.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

At least in my case I had that same noise when you give the engine revs and the revs drop, turned out it was a trashed pre-cat.

Spikethedog

Should there be anything going here? Seems to me like its missing a return hose? I get fuel coming out of this like crazy, doesnt start leaking right away takes a few minutes then it pours out steady. Just bought this car this week.not familiar with these things yet. Need to figure it out tonight im going on vacation tomorow!! Thanks

Spikethedog

Figured it out. Somebody had replaced the sending unit previously and used a 00-01 unit from before they went returnless. From what i gathered they went with a returnless system in mid 02? I cant believe somebody would actualy do this, and then it had to be pissing out fuel ever since the install... All over the tailpipe and everything.. Anyway i found a proper one from a local junk yard. And i even found a few interior parts that were sub standard on mine and bothered me! Got to love them junk yards

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Glad you figured it out. The previous owner shouldn't be allowed near a car.

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Yea, NO CRAP! That's crazy.

cdoublejj

I am new 4th Gen Maxima owner and i'm and have been reading the stickies and other threads and i keep wondering wtf an IACV is, i fear Google will give me the wrong answer since it's acronym.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

IACV means Intake Air Control Valve. It is on the throttle body and is used to keep the engine idle constant. Things like the air conditioning and power steering could make the idle rpm drop, so the IACV is the way the idle gets compensated.

And welcome to Maxima.org. I hope you enjoy the car.

If you don't have a FSM (Factory Service Manual) and would like to download one, go to:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
or
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/

One last thing. You said you had a 4th generation Maxima, 1995 - 1999. This is the 5th generation Maxima forum, 2000 - 2003. Posting in the wrong forum can prevent you from getting a quick answer as the 2 generations are not the same and you won't have as many knowledgeable people seeing your question. Many of the basic things are the same, it's the fine details that are different. Even when you post your question, always tell us what year the car is. There are things that Nissan changed every year on these cars.

Jeep905

I just got a 2000 and took it for emission but it failed due to the CEL being inop. Also has a P0505 code. I did some research and see that usally means replacing the IAC and getting the ECU repaired.

1st where on the dash is the CEL?

2nd the place that is going to repair the ecu recommends replacing the TPS also but from what I read most just replace the ecu and IAC. Would I need to replace the TPS?

3rd I see there is a big difference in price between ebay, local auto parts and dealer. Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket parts?

Thanks for the assistance. Lots of great info glad I found this site

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

1. Check engine light, bottom right on dash
2. How exactly do you know the ECU is bad? If they are fried you typically can't pull codes IIRC.
3. I would recommend OEM for certain parts, especially crucial components. If strapped on cash, junk yards are your friend. I'd take an OEM part from a junk yard over ebay off brand crap any day.

Jeep905

THANKS FOR THE INFO.
I will try the junk yard for the parts and see if that solves the problem.

Pilm

So you bought a car without scanning it for codes? If you have P0505, car doesn't hold idle, right? You must have gotten a good deal. Anyway, you don't need to replace the TPS unless it is bad. You can measure the resistance of the switch and sensor to see if it's working. There is no reason the ECU repair places should be telling people to automatically replace their TPS, that's just stupid. You can also test your IACV coils to see if they are indeed bad, each coil should measure almost exactly 22 ohms (there are 4 of them). If one or more is short, open or not close to 22, then it's bad. I would remove the ECU first and inspect it looking for a blown STA509A 10 pin chip. If you can solder, you can replace a bad chip yourself for $15 in 10 minutes, if not you'll pay $150 for someone to do it for you. Buy an OEM IACV, do not use aftermarket. You can usually find a Nissan dealer selling them for $130 on eBay, maybe even less.

cdoublejj

woops, that's a typo. thanks for the intro and the acronym.

Does every one have to watch a commercial with a captcha every time they make post?

I'm definitely liking my car...a lot. i think i want to invest in quite a bit of preventative maintenance, i feel like for the money i paid i want keep it around a LONG while.

I've made a thread and have read quite a bit of the stickies and am still reading.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post8833239

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You are only punished and made to watch commercials on your first 15 (I think) posts, so your misert is almost over.

I did read the other thread and ignored it because it was too long for my attention span. But I do remember saying to myself "this guy is dedicated to maintaining his car". But I feel that you want to replace way too many parts that don't need replacing. For example, that kit with the water pump, timing chain and whatever is intended for someone rebuilding an engine. The miles you have (160K is it?) does not justify that at all.

There are 2 thought processes for replacing parts.
1 - This part is getting old. I better replace it before it breaks.
2 - If it ain't broke - don't fix it.

Downsides
1 - You will be spending a lot more money than you need to.
2 - You could be stranded along side some road.

I subscribe to # 2 98% of the time.

cdoublejj

Well stated! The problem is i have a lot of questions. Think the raised the post cap before the adds go away.

anthonysiracuse

Hi guys been coming on here for a while .. Newly registered and first post though .. I have an 03 maxima and the other day for no apparent reason the fan the blows out the heat and ac took a dump .. Just lookin for a lil step by step on how i can isolate the problem and fix it myself.. Thanks in advance

sba926

it maybe a fuse or fan motor is bad. i just had this problem and was fan motor. you should have two fan motors, start with fuses under hood check conections to fan motors. if stil nothing i would say fan motor is bad. buy new one for about $60.00 was ez to remove and install

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Check the two fuses that are under the hood by the battery, labeled BLOWER MTR. If those are OK, then then you need to check the blower motor itself and the speed control device. You will need a volt meter to do the checking unless you have spare parts you can swap.

If you have the auto climate control, the speed control device is called the "Fan Control Amplifier". If you have the manual controls, it is called the Blower Motor Resistor". They ARE NOT the same thing and they are not interchangeable.

Let us know if you have to manual or auto climate controls so we can go in the proper direction.

anthonysiracuse

hi dennis...i have manual auto....i believe...just in case for my "fyi" what exactly prey tell is the differance?

Stuart Ramsey

So I have finally found an 02' that I want after working all summer for it and I have one question before I go to buy it tomorrow. The car runs and looks great, pretty much like new but my only concern is that it has 209,000 miles. Safe to purchase? Help me out guys! I had a 96 maxima in high school and sold it with 300,000+ miles but I just want to make sure this is a good idea.