Ok, been doing lots of research on the IACV and ECM failures, just want to make sure my car issue is a candidate for the procedure.

My 2000 Maxima starts fine, idles for about 1-2 seconds and then dies. If I start the car and constantly "blip" the gas to try and keep the car running..... the car spits, sputters, almost backfires. It will run very poor like this for as long as I want...never gets better. As soon as I let of the gas the car dies.

I was thinking if I got it to "run" long enough it would overcome the dying, but it won't. The CEL is on, but my mechanic states he doesn't see a code with his equipment and he says the IACV is functioning properly. Actually the CEL had been on for months, and car was fine.

Bad IACV and fried ECM?...or something else?

A little history:

Two years ago the car wouldn't start at all....so the IACV was cleaned and the problem went away.

 

A bad IACV will cause the idle to "wander" up and down from maybe as high as 2K rpm to dying out. You are probably developing (or have) a bad MAF.

 

Thanks Dennis, was just focused on the IACV since it had trouble before, and lots of issues with them on my research. Picked up a cheap ebay MAF and will give it a try, thanks.

I guess IACV failures vary. As stated before in my previous post, my car would not even start last time. It would turn the engine, but no spark, fuel, etc as if the car had seriously jumped time or something. Cleaned out the IACV and been fine until now.

Thanks again!

 

can someone help!!! If you have your rear bose speaker can you look and tell me which color goes to the yellow wire?white or black? Thank you!

 

What connector is that? The FSM for the 2000 doesn't have those colors at all.

 

i know orange:red/ blk:blk/ blue:green/ is the blk and white one idk about the two that are together. ..

 

OK. That speaker is the woofer for the Bose system, a poor substitute for a subwoofer. I think what you have is a kind of a serious problem.

In your original photo, that connector, or more accurately, the wires, belong inside the woofer. Under that black plastic cover is a metal box that contains a printed circuit board that amplifies the signal for the woofer speaker. Those wires are supposed to be soldered/connected onto it. The Nissan FSM does not show that wiring and I've never taken one apart, so I can't help you.

Maybe if you re-post this in the Audio forum and call it the woofer speaker, maybe someone else can help you.

 

Yes i took off the connector from the sub and from the car, re-solter the navis and extended the red and green wires to the speaker and tucked the lil cb case behind the trunk liner. I was just confused if purple(sub)went to blk(car) or yellow (sub)went to blk car ...but i got it it was yellow:blk purple:white....
So far the woofer if working...i figured maybe if the cb is not so close to the vibrations I'll stop cutting off and so far so good....i have another cb and i'm waiting for some better relay..

 

I have an 01 Maxima with just over 100K miles. I have been replacing many wear and tear components lately it seems to be getting out of hand. I live in the NE and the winters have been quite harsh on my car. I have maintained the car well and it is in great condition. The latest issue I have is with the power steering. I was getting an oil change and my mechanic showed me fluid leaking from both sides of the power steering gear assembly. He said the entire assembly needs replacement. I have noticed no change in my steering and there are no noises. I did notice a slight loss in fluid from the reservoir. I am having a hard time getting past the price but my options are to put the OEM Nissan part in for about $2200 or an aftermarket for around $1700. Prices include labor. Does anyone have experience replacing the power steering gear assy? I am a purist and prefer not use anything but Nissan parts. To save $500 for the aftermarket is tempting. Is this a bad idea? A picture attached shows the leaking if you look close around the boot. Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Hi, I just finished rebuilding my 2003 Nissan maximas automatic transmitions and finished installing it as well. But the problem I'm not having is the transmission work shift in to drive, reverse, 3rd,2nd but it will drive in first and also my rpm is not working now either I'm not getting any rpms when I rev. My engine. Am I missing something here. I rebuilt the transition and cleaned everything and tested all the solenoids all read Ok

 

I was looking for some new rims for my 01 maxima 20th anniversary edition and found a set I like. they are Advanti Racing Bo Bellos. I was wondering if an 18 inch rim will fit with no modifications. Feedback would help a lot Thanks.

 

A new Nissan steering rack is around $1200 at the dealer, $850 on line. Part number is 49001-5Y700. It is kind of a big job, requiring several hours of labor. $2200 sounds a little on the high side, but definitely not a rip off price.

Rebuilt racks run between $300 and $400. I couldn't find any new aftermarket racks, so that $1700 price seems way high.

One thing to remember is that a private repair shop will mark up the price of the parts, the dealer does not. The percentage of markup is going to vary from shop to shop.

Since the rack is leaking, you can also get a seal kit and repair yours. Seal kits run around $40-$50. You still have to take the rack off the car and the job takes maybe an hour longer, so the labor charge is than for replacing the rack. But you'll have a hard time finding a mechanic that will do the seals. That requires a little more skill.

 

I have seen people put 20 inch wheels on their Maxima. 18s will fit.

 

I rebuilt my transmission and just had it reinstalled this past weekend and now im having problems my Drive, Reverse, 3rd, and 2nd dont work what so ever my 1st work just fine. also my rpm does not work what so ever even when i rev my engine. i rebuilt and cleaned every part inside.

 

So I have an 02 Maxima, and i have noticed a while ago that it idles between 450-1000 RPMs, I talked to a buddy how works at a garage and he says that it may be a computer issue, any ideas?

 

Use OBD scan tool to get any error code.

Read this link
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2002/EC.pdf

 

That's a pretty large fluctuation range. Is the idle only high in the morning during a cold start? If so, that's normal. But 450 ,oth,is way too low. Does the car stall out or drive rough? Any codes or SES light? You need to give us more info about the mileage, service history, ownership history, etc. I'd first try cleaning out the MAF. Have the spark plugs ever been done and the TB cleaned? I'd also try the full battery of re-learns in the link below:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

 

It idles high on a cold start consistently, but every once in a while, it idles at different RPMs, has not ever stalled from it, i haven't noticed it lately, but it does have 179,750 miles on it, and it has had the clutch, coils, and spark plugs fixed on the engine in the last two years, it has had 2 previous owners, one being my dad, i cleaned the TB within the last 5,000 miles, i have not looked at the MAF yet, but i will check that out, i have not noticed if it has idled super low recently though

how would i go about cleaning the MAF?

 

Hello all I finally bought that 03 maxima 6 speed and.it leaks oil at valve covers.I heard you can get new covers for like 50, a piece 6 th gen but I called the dealer and their 250,each. Can anyone direct me to that link or tell me where to buy the updated covers?

 

when you called the dealer did you ask for a 03 maxima valve cover if so then they are about 250 if you ask for a 04 maxima valve cover then they are about 50 i replaced my about a year ago and got the 04 maxima valve covers for my 03 maxima and i have not had no problem. try calling them up again and ask for a 04 maxima valve cover see what they say

 

I have 18" anniversary Z wheels on my 2000.. no fitment problems whatsoever.

 

Depends on the size of the tire, offset and suspension set-up.

 

In August I bought a 2001 Nissan Maxima. It was used and I got it checked out first. My mechanic said it was a great price for the car and that the only problems were a hole in the muffler and that the car was running rich, so I ought to buy it. I don't regret the decision as I love the car but...

It started to hesitate when I accelerated after turning the car on for the first time in maybe six or more hours. So when it was cold. It got pretty rough at times, so my mechanic cleaned the MAF and this made it a bit better. It still jerks around on me some mornings, though.

At some point I replaced the Intake Manifold Gasket. Don't remember why, but after this was replaced the car started stalling when idling. It only stalls after I've been on the highway for a while doing 80 or 90. If I drive at 60 for an hour it won't stall but 80 for 10 minutes it will (For my American friends, 80 km is 50 miles and 60 km is 37 miles). Mechanic has tried setting the car to idle at a higher rpm, and has reset the car's learning system twice. Both maybe worked for a while (maybe - the stalling is not steady, though it is frequent enough) but not for long.

The CEL comes on from time to time (and randomly goes away). We've had a lot of lean codes, which is funny because the car was running rich when I bought it.

Sometimes when accelerating after being stopped at a light the car loses power and won't go above 40/50 km per hour. I have also smelled rotten eggs occasionally, which I know has something to do with the catalytic converter. Today, when I turned my car on (after being parked for 6 hours) I put the emergency break down, put the car in drive, and remembered I needed to plug my ipod in. I sat there with my foot on the break and noticed that the car was bucking. When I started driving it went away, and when I stopped at a red light it didn't buck at all.

Mechanic wants to replace the MAF. Says catalytic converter is only busted if it's rattling, which mine isn't.

I'm really hesitant about replacing the MAF because of cost, but we're stuck. Anyone have an idea about what could be going on?

 

I'd say MAF is your best bet, sounds like it's toast. I'd also check out the whole intake, might be an air leak setting off the lean codes.

edit: you can buy a brand new MAF for $100 or if you really don't want to spent money go get one at junk yard and pull it

 

Try to get hold an OBD scan tool with live feed. Check for codes. I am hoping you follow the steps on the removal and replacement of intake manifold, you might have a leak. The ten bolts must be tighten to 13-15 foot-lbs.

 

With a P0174 code for my O2 sensor is this the correct part to purchase to replace it? It says upstream, but I just wanted to double check before I order the part to replace the sensor. Thanks in Advance.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...nso_20471281-p

 

code P0174 is fuel injectors in bank 2 have too lean a mixture. Bank 2 is the side of the engine by the radiator.

One of the possible causes could be the fuel injector 1 as Nissan calls it. Parts stores call sensor 1 the upstream sensor.

Yes. The sensor in the link is what you want. But if you are ordering that sensor on-line, you're paying too much. If you order Denso O2 sensor # 234-3113 from rockauto.com, it is only $65.89.

 

Thanks! I will definitely look into it.

 

My 03 Maxima SE power steering is jerky on chilly mornings. Don't see any leaks and the reservoir is full. No squeally belt or other strange noises either.
Any help for a newbie out there?

 

Check the power steering belt to see that it is tight. Just because it doesn't make any noise, doesn't mean it's tight.

 

Went to the mechanic's today just to check my CEL again. He told me the really puzzling thing about this rich/lean (it's always lean now, it seems) thing is that it is moving from the front of the car to the back of the car... One day the code reads that the "lean"ness is happening at the front, the next day it's in the back, the next it's up front again.

Thoughts?

 

What are the CEL codes? While the MAF sounds like a good candidate, knowing what the CEL codes are will help us to do more than just guess at your problem.

 

*nods*

P0171 and P0174.

 

P0171 is bank 1 running too lean
P0174 is bank 2 running too lean

possible causes for those codes are:
* Intake air leaks
* Heated oxygen sensor 1 (front)
* Injectors
* Exhaust gas leaks
* Incorrect fuel pressure
* Lack of fuel
* Mass air flow sensor

If it was only one of the codes, I would say the O2 sensor. But since both banks of the engine have the same problem, the odds of two O2 sensors going bad at the same time is not that likely.

As long as there is no intake air leaks (such as the flexible tube between the air filter and the throttle body, I would say it is the MAF.

 

Bought 02 maxima that sat for six months. It has 127k & I got a super good deal on it. Original owner gave it to her son, who didn't have license so he sold it to me. I got there an the battery was dead, got a battery and it started right up , ran perfect, transmission changed gears smoothly and ran like it had never been sitting . Since I got it, it has been sitting in my drive way because I haven't had the chance to get tags yet. I was wondering what kind of tune up should be done on a maxima that has been sitting that long. This is my first maxima. And im not no mechanic. Maybe six month isn't much but im not sure. look forward to hearing replies.

 

Anyone notice how steep the angle is of the automatic front driver seat?

 

No George, you are the only one.

 

Do you have leather + power?

 

I would recommend spark plugs, air filter and maybe fuel filter.
First one would take the longest and would be the most expensive thing. Check if you car has any codes and go from there if there are any.

 

Sitting 6 months isn't all that bad, but the engine oil and filter should be changed. Oil can absorb moisture and junk from just sitting.

Mileage wise, the air filter is due for replacement, so do it

Spark plugs aren't affected by sitting around, but should have been changed at 105K miles. If the previous owner didn't change them, do it.

For your own benefit, replace the cabin air filter. I bet it is way past it's change time.

I would leave the fuel filter alone. The fuel filter is supposed to be a lifetime filter. It is a big filter to make it lifetime and it is located inside the gas tank.

To see the maintenance schedule for your car, click on the link below and go to page 7:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/MA.pdf

If you want to download the entire service manual, click this link:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/

Enjoy the car!