5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 92
From: obx NC
im getting approx 14mpg, I think i can hear a slight, very faint, knocking when its idling but im not sure if its really knocking or just the sound of the engine. thinking o2's? This is city driving. purposely keeping under 2k whenever possible. MPG reading on dash is also at 14 and i know how everyone says they are 2-3 miles optimistic.
121k miles, previous owner had replaced belt and tensioner but didnt mention any sensors
121k miles, previous owner had replaced belt and tensioner but didnt mention any sensors
WOW I have never gotten under 22mpg no matter where I have driven
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
first you should try out the dimmer adjustment ****/wheel - it's on the left hand side on the dash board, behind steering wheel. Just to check one thing - are the lights on radio(if you have stock one) are up? same question if you have a digital climate control?
Next step will be to check fuses under the hood - next to your airbox, driver's side (not sure, but i guess it was third row for me) and fuses under the dashboard (to the left and underneath the steering wheel).
Next step will be to check fuses under the hood - next to your airbox, driver's side (not sure, but i guess it was third row for me) and fuses under the dashboard (to the left and underneath the steering wheel).
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 87
From: Wichita, Kansas
I have a 02 max that just rolled over 151k and ever since i bought it when traveling over bumps or non smooth surfaces the right front end makes a clunking noise. It has the stock suspension and struts so im assuming the struts need replacing but not sure what else.
Could be a number of things - motor mounts, strut mounts, sway bar links. If you're hearing a clunk it's not likely to be your struts themselves.
Though you are right, at 151k your struts could probably use a replacement.
Though you are right, at 151k your struts could probably use a replacement.
Originally Posted by vastmax
Front end noise?
Check these in this order...
Stabilizer link, Sway bar bushing, Strut mount, Strut, Tie rod/ball joint (based on 3-9 or 6-12 tests), Motor Mounts
If those dont solve your problem, it'll more than likely be axles, wheel bearings, or something bigger.
Check these in this order...
Stabilizer link, Sway bar bushing, Strut mount, Strut, Tie rod/ball joint (based on 3-9 or 6-12 tests), Motor Mounts
If those dont solve your problem, it'll more than likely be axles, wheel bearings, or something bigger.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
From: South Florida
I have a 01 Maxima Se and have over 210k miles. The car needs a couple things done to it before its at 100 percent. She runs pretty smooth BUUUUTTT I have been debating on whether I should have the engine rebuilt OR engine swap it/ or should I just save my money and buy an 02/03 model. I plan to mod the car and possibly supercharge it in the future
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
03 auto with 121k miles. 13 mpg. (calculated and rounded up!) Am I missing something here? And that 13mpg was driving it like a grandma to try and get good numbers. Dash reads 14mpg and if I reset the mpg it will say 20 but drop back to 12 within a mile and then creep back up to 14. Should I plan my assault or just go to town with new parts?
I have a 01 Maxima Se and have over 210k miles. The car needs a couple things done to it before its at 100 percent. She runs pretty smooth BUUUUTTT I have been debating on whether I should have the engine rebuilt OR engine swap it/ or should I just save my money and buy an 02/03 model. I plan to mod the car and possibly supercharge it in the future
Spend some time here and do some research and then revisit your plans.
Originally Posted by LongoTE
03 auto with 121k miles. 13 mpg. (calculated and rounded up!) Am I missing something here? And that 13mpg was driving it like a grandma to try and get good numbers. Dash reads 14mpg and if I reset the mpg it will say 20 but drop back to 12 within a mile and then creep back up to 14. Should I plan my assault or just go to town with new parts?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 33
From: Houston, TX, USA
RE: Post 12653 Catalytic Converter_MAF sensor
Didn't get a lot of feedback on my original post. These two codes are what they are basing their diagnosis on: P0420 Catalyst Malfunction) & P1102 (MAF Sensor). Does the P0420 code refer to the entire cat converter and two "pre" converters???
From what I am reading, it looks like the MAF sensor may be done for even with a good cleaning, which I did.
What I'm not sure about is the catalytic converter. I have one shop that can put in a universal cat converter for 140.00. That sounds good. Even was advised to try that first, then I'd be able to see if either of the other pre-converters are a problem. I was told at another shop that all three converters would be around $1100.00, installed. That might explain why the dealer quoted so high. Maybe they just do the entire cat assembly with all 3 converters?
Just trying to get some feedback from someone who has had to deal with the catalytic converter issue, and the MAF also.
The most promising report was from my tow truck driver that used to own a muffler shop with his dad. He said if that if the cat converter is repaired, make sure my O2 sensors are good and I can probably get another 100k out of my 191k Maxima....
Any and all feedback appreciated. Thanks.
From what I am reading, it looks like the MAF sensor may be done for even with a good cleaning, which I did.
What I'm not sure about is the catalytic converter. I have one shop that can put in a universal cat converter for 140.00. That sounds good. Even was advised to try that first, then I'd be able to see if either of the other pre-converters are a problem. I was told at another shop that all three converters would be around $1100.00, installed. That might explain why the dealer quoted so high. Maybe they just do the entire cat assembly with all 3 converters?
Just trying to get some feedback from someone who has had to deal with the catalytic converter issue, and the MAF also.
The most promising report was from my tow truck driver that used to own a muffler shop with his dad. He said if that if the cat converter is repaired, make sure my O2 sensors are good and I can probably get another 100k out of my 191k Maxima....
Any and all feedback appreciated. Thanks.
Didn't get a lot of feedback on my original post. These two codes are what they are basing their diagnosis on: P0420 Catalyst Malfunction) & P1102 (MAF Sensor). Does the P0420 code refer to the entire cat converter and two "pre" converters???
From what I am reading, it looks like the MAF sensor may be done for even with a good cleaning, which I did.
What I'm not sure about is the catalytic converter. I have one shop that can put in a universal cat converter for 140.00. That sounds good. Even was advised to try that first, then I'd be able to see if either of the other pre-converters are a problem. I was told at another shop that all three converters would be around $1100.00, installed. That might explain why the dealer quoted so high. Maybe they just do the entire cat assembly with all 3 converters?
Just trying to get some feedback from someone who has had to deal with the catalytic converter issue, and the MAF also.
The most promising report was from my tow truck driver that used to own a muffler shop with his dad. He said if that if the cat converter is repaired, make sure my O2 sensors are good and I can probably get another 100k out of my 191k Maxima....
Any and all feedback appreciated. Thanks.
From what I am reading, it looks like the MAF sensor may be done for even with a good cleaning, which I did.
What I'm not sure about is the catalytic converter. I have one shop that can put in a universal cat converter for 140.00. That sounds good. Even was advised to try that first, then I'd be able to see if either of the other pre-converters are a problem. I was told at another shop that all three converters would be around $1100.00, installed. That might explain why the dealer quoted so high. Maybe they just do the entire cat assembly with all 3 converters?
Just trying to get some feedback from someone who has had to deal with the catalytic converter issue, and the MAF also.
The most promising report was from my tow truck driver that used to own a muffler shop with his dad. He said if that if the cat converter is repaired, make sure my O2 sensors are good and I can probably get another 100k out of my 191k Maxima....
Any and all feedback appreciated. Thanks.
Check the following threads for cheaper than OEM replacements and post back if you need any help.
Also, regarding the MAF, that too is probably done, get a hold of Dave Burnette (search on here for his contact info). he can sell you one for 95-100$.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...hlight=eastern
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...hlight=eastern
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ght=Old+vs+new
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
No SES light. Only ever got one light for park/neutral position sensor after my battery died so i reset the code and it never came back and I never had any problems with the selector. I haven't thought about any "ghost codes" so i may go check for them at autozone.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
From: South Florida
Thanks, but I thought adding power to high mileage cars was a bad idea, especially one so high??
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Will the heads off a VQ30DD(FR-layout, such as in the V35 Skyline) bolt up to the block of a VQ30DE(FF-layout, such as the A33)?
I understand the answer to this might be complex, I just want to know that it isn't impossible.
Thanks!
I understand the answer to this might be complex, I just want to know that it isn't impossible.
Thanks!
But if not, you're fine. What are your plans?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7
transmission question
I am the second owner of a 2000 SE auto with 48k. When driving first thing in the morning, the transmission does not shift into overdrive until it"s somewhat warmed up.After it has reached normal operating temp i notice it stay's in second gear to long before shifting to third. All shifts are appropriately firm. According to the service records provided with the car, it had a trans service at 37k miles. The fluid level is spot on. The fluid very clean and smells normal.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 33
From: Houston, TX, USA
MAF Sensor conversion '01 to '02
I was able to contact DAVEB and talked with him about the MAF sensor. What I'm looking for now is the thread or posts that might have some pictures as to what it would take take to modify the sensor for my '02. Any help appreciated.
Also read a post or two about the older sensor lowering mileage. Is this possibly without doing the modification or is that a side effect of not using an exact replacement part?
Thanks.
Also read a post or two about the older sensor lowering mileage. Is this possibly without doing the modification or is that a side effect of not using an exact replacement part?
Thanks.
Last edited by mahdlokg; Mar 17, 2011 at 09:55 AM.
I was able to contact DAVEB and talked with him about the MAF sensor. What I'm looking for now is the thread or posts that might have some pictures as to what it would take take to modify the sensor for my '02. Any help appreciated.
Also read a post or two about the older sensor lowering mileage. Is this possibly without doing the modification or is that a side effect of not using an exact replacement part?
Thanks.
Also read a post or two about the older sensor lowering mileage. Is this possibly without doing the modification or is that a side effect of not using an exact replacement part?
Thanks.
It seems that the boot that is right under the power steering pump has a tiny hole and slowly is spewing the grease inside of it all over my car guts.
My question is; Do i need to remove the entire CV Joint Axle, or can i possibly open up the boot and dissemble the joint up with ease that would not require me to remove the entire CV joint axle?
Thanks.
My question is; Do i need to remove the entire CV Joint Axle, or can i possibly open up the boot and dissemble the joint up with ease that would not require me to remove the entire CV joint axle?
Thanks.
Question is, how can i get the the middle boot without taking out the whole CV axle joint from the trans.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,767
From: Moore, OK
It seems that the boot that is right under the power steering pump has a tiny hole and slowly is spewing the grease inside of it all over my car guts.
My question is; Do i need to remove the entire CV Joint Axle, or can i possibly open up the boot and dissemble the joint up with ease that would not require me to remove the entire CV joint axle?
Thanks.
My question is; Do i need to remove the entire CV Joint Axle, or can i possibly open up the boot and dissemble the joint up with ease that would not require me to remove the entire CV joint axle?
Thanks.
Looks like il have to collect that tranny fluid up, since Ive just recently replaced the fluid in there.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,767
From: Moore, OK
Tranny fluid will not leak when replacing cv on our year. I changed mine about 3 weeks before my car was totaled and not one drop leaked.
Well if not, guess my job will be easier, since the grease in that boot is really getting my rear engine guts dirty. The joint is still good since there are no creaks or weird knocking sounds when i turn the wheel in further most direction while moving slowly.
img809.imageshack.us/img809/7329/cimg1447m.jpg
Couple of other questions:
Sometimes if im going at 5mph, try to engage 1st gear, its like it wont let me, i can force it in, but i have to use force... If i engage second gear, it goes in like butter, no issues. Something wrong with syncros?
Sometimes, even though the clutch is pushed out all the way, it wont let me engage reverse, id have to repress the clutch again for it to engage. The gear engages smoothing no problem, normal?
Also, sometimes when i engage first gear from a dead stop, or moving very slowly <5mph, sometimes i hear like a click noise when i engage, no grinds or anything like that. Normal?
Last edited by L36; Mar 17, 2011 at 05:00 PM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 92
From: obx NC
I changed out my cv on th epassanger side b/c I cut the boot whenI replaced my struts. (I know right) It only took a few mins to do. Very easy. Though I have an auto tranny. Dont know if there is much difference
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4
From: Ypsilanti, MI
Need help please!
Hi I need help with a speedometer problem on my 2000 Maxima SE A/T. I've done as much research as i could but I'm close to giving up on the problem. I'll try to be as detailed as possible so please bear with me.
3 or so months ago I bought the car from an independent shop, the car was listed as having 3 electrical problems including the speedometer not working. I fixed the other 2 but the speedometer is something that has been very hard for me to diagnose. I found out my car was supposed to have a speed sensor on the transmission besides the revolution sensor, it is indicated the transmission had been replaced for one of a 2001 year car, so I bought the speed sensor and the wiring harness for the sensor at a dealer, after that i tested the speed around the neighborhood and it seemed to be working as opposed to before. I was WRONG... as soon as I took the car into the highway I noticed that once reached around 55 mph the speedometer needle would start dropping the faster I went, then when I reduced my speed it would go back up to the speed where it started dropping and down again, working normally. then it ocurred to me that MAYBE the instrument cluster had also been replaced for a newer one since it only had 90k miles on it, so I went on ebay and got one that I thought would be the right fit for my car. the description seemed to be right, plus it had over 200k miles. Once it arrived I switched them over and NOTHING I had the exact same problem!
so I decide, that possibly I had a defective speed sensor to begin with, so I went and bought another one from Autozone just to test the theory, guess what?... same problem, I've read as many wiring diagrams as I could get off AllData and Mitchel on demand, but i feel I have reached a dead end for I have tested almost every component part of the speedometer, (excluding ECM, TCM) next I connected a Genisys Evo(scan tool) to the car, and drove around while checking the following inputs: all 4 wheel speed sensors, Vehicle Speed sensor, Engine Speed, Transmission Gear, TPS voltage and %. all looked normal as they were reading around the same speed BUT I noticed something weird one of the data lines reading "Vehicle Speed Engine read my speed correctly at times for example 72 mph then suddenly would drop to 23 mph. now keep in mind this wasn't the signal coming from the transmission's Vehicle Speed Sensor for this one was labeled "Vehicle Speed Transmission" and its reading was always at a steady speed.
So that is my dilemma, What could I be missing? Is it possible the cluster I bought was also wrong? if so how do I identify if the cluster is the exact model I need for my car? and Where does the reading for vehicle speed Engine signal come from? I need a very detailed explanation to how the reading on the cluster is calculated.
P.S i did some basic resistance testing of some of the wiring from from the VSS to the cluster and to the TCM, but it seems to be ok, is there a better way of testing the wiring?
Any help is apeciated
Erick
3 or so months ago I bought the car from an independent shop, the car was listed as having 3 electrical problems including the speedometer not working. I fixed the other 2 but the speedometer is something that has been very hard for me to diagnose. I found out my car was supposed to have a speed sensor on the transmission besides the revolution sensor, it is indicated the transmission had been replaced for one of a 2001 year car, so I bought the speed sensor and the wiring harness for the sensor at a dealer, after that i tested the speed around the neighborhood and it seemed to be working as opposed to before. I was WRONG... as soon as I took the car into the highway I noticed that once reached around 55 mph the speedometer needle would start dropping the faster I went, then when I reduced my speed it would go back up to the speed where it started dropping and down again, working normally. then it ocurred to me that MAYBE the instrument cluster had also been replaced for a newer one since it only had 90k miles on it, so I went on ebay and got one that I thought would be the right fit for my car. the description seemed to be right, plus it had over 200k miles. Once it arrived I switched them over and NOTHING I had the exact same problem!
so I decide, that possibly I had a defective speed sensor to begin with, so I went and bought another one from Autozone just to test the theory, guess what?... same problem, I've read as many wiring diagrams as I could get off AllData and Mitchel on demand, but i feel I have reached a dead end for I have tested almost every component part of the speedometer, (excluding ECM, TCM) next I connected a Genisys Evo(scan tool) to the car, and drove around while checking the following inputs: all 4 wheel speed sensors, Vehicle Speed sensor, Engine Speed, Transmission Gear, TPS voltage and %. all looked normal as they were reading around the same speed BUT I noticed something weird one of the data lines reading "Vehicle Speed Engine read my speed correctly at times for example 72 mph then suddenly would drop to 23 mph. now keep in mind this wasn't the signal coming from the transmission's Vehicle Speed Sensor for this one was labeled "Vehicle Speed Transmission" and its reading was always at a steady speed.
So that is my dilemma, What could I be missing? Is it possible the cluster I bought was also wrong? if so how do I identify if the cluster is the exact model I need for my car? and Where does the reading for vehicle speed Engine signal come from? I need a very detailed explanation to how the reading on the cluster is calculated.
P.S i did some basic resistance testing of some of the wiring from from the VSS to the cluster and to the TCM, but it seems to be ok, is there a better way of testing the wiring?
Any help is apeciated
Erick
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,767
From: Moore, OK
Hi I need help with a speedometer problem on my 2000 Maxima SE A/T. I've done as much research as i could but I'm close to giving up on the problem. I'll try to be as detailed as possible so please bear with me.
3 or so months ago I bought the car from an independent shop, the car was listed as having 3 electrical problems including the speedometer not working. I fixed the other 2 but the speedometer is something that has been very hard for me to diagnose. I found out my car was supposed to have a speed sensor on the transmission besides the revolution sensor, it is indicated the transmission had been replaced for one of a 2001 year car, so I bought the speed sensor and the wiring harness for the sensor at a dealer, after that i tested the speed around the neighborhood and it seemed to be working as opposed to before. I was WRONG... as soon as I took the car into the highway I noticed that once reached around 55 mph the speedometer needle would start dropping the faster I went, then when I reduced my speed it would go back up to the speed where it started dropping and down again, working normally. then it ocurred to me that MAYBE the instrument cluster had also been replaced for a newer one since it only had 90k miles on it, so I went on ebay and got one that I thought would be the right fit for my car. the description seemed to be right, plus it had over 200k miles. Once it arrived I switched them over and NOTHING I had the exact same problem!
so I decide, that possibly I had a defective speed sensor to begin with, so I went and bought another one from Autozone just to test the theory, guess what?... same problem, I've read as many wiring diagrams as I could get off AllData and Mitchel on demand, but i feel I have reached a dead end for I have tested almost every component part of the speedometer, (excluding ECM, TCM) next I connected a Genisys Evo(scan tool) to the car, and drove around while checking the following inputs: all 4 wheel speed sensors, Vehicle Speed sensor, Engine Speed, Transmission Gear, TPS voltage and %. all looked normal as they were reading around the same speed BUT I noticed something weird one of the data lines reading "Vehicle Speed Engine read my speed correctly at times for example 72 mph then suddenly would drop to 23 mph. now keep in mind this wasn't the signal coming from the transmission's Vehicle Speed Sensor for this one was labeled "Vehicle Speed Transmission" and its reading was always at a steady speed.
So that is my dilemma, What could I be missing? Is it possible the cluster I bought was also wrong? if so how do I identify if the cluster is the exact model I need for my car? and Where does the reading for vehicle speed Engine signal come from? I need a very detailed explanation to how the reading on the cluster is calculated.
P.S i did some basic resistance testing of some of the wiring from from the VSS to the cluster and to the TCM, but it seems to be ok, is there a better way of testing the wiring?
Any help is apeciated
Erick
3 or so months ago I bought the car from an independent shop, the car was listed as having 3 electrical problems including the speedometer not working. I fixed the other 2 but the speedometer is something that has been very hard for me to diagnose. I found out my car was supposed to have a speed sensor on the transmission besides the revolution sensor, it is indicated the transmission had been replaced for one of a 2001 year car, so I bought the speed sensor and the wiring harness for the sensor at a dealer, after that i tested the speed around the neighborhood and it seemed to be working as opposed to before. I was WRONG... as soon as I took the car into the highway I noticed that once reached around 55 mph the speedometer needle would start dropping the faster I went, then when I reduced my speed it would go back up to the speed where it started dropping and down again, working normally. then it ocurred to me that MAYBE the instrument cluster had also been replaced for a newer one since it only had 90k miles on it, so I went on ebay and got one that I thought would be the right fit for my car. the description seemed to be right, plus it had over 200k miles. Once it arrived I switched them over and NOTHING I had the exact same problem!
so I decide, that possibly I had a defective speed sensor to begin with, so I went and bought another one from Autozone just to test the theory, guess what?... same problem, I've read as many wiring diagrams as I could get off AllData and Mitchel on demand, but i feel I have reached a dead end for I have tested almost every component part of the speedometer, (excluding ECM, TCM) next I connected a Genisys Evo(scan tool) to the car, and drove around while checking the following inputs: all 4 wheel speed sensors, Vehicle Speed sensor, Engine Speed, Transmission Gear, TPS voltage and %. all looked normal as they were reading around the same speed BUT I noticed something weird one of the data lines reading "Vehicle Speed Engine read my speed correctly at times for example 72 mph then suddenly would drop to 23 mph. now keep in mind this wasn't the signal coming from the transmission's Vehicle Speed Sensor for this one was labeled "Vehicle Speed Transmission" and its reading was always at a steady speed.
So that is my dilemma, What could I be missing? Is it possible the cluster I bought was also wrong? if so how do I identify if the cluster is the exact model I need for my car? and Where does the reading for vehicle speed Engine signal come from? I need a very detailed explanation to how the reading on the cluster is calculated.
P.S i did some basic resistance testing of some of the wiring from from the VSS to the cluster and to the TCM, but it seems to be ok, is there a better way of testing the wiring?
Any help is apeciated
Erick
Please download the service manual. I have a link to them in my sig. There will be a section dealing with what you are looking for. I'm at work so I can't dig into it.
The manual should also tell you how much resistance, voltage, etc you should be seeing at certain speeds.
Also im having a weird issue...
Sometimes, if the engine has been recently shut off (3 mins), if i would start it again my engine would start with a slight knock and hesitate at 500 rpm or so, giving it some gas would solve the problem. Knock only occurs when the engine is at point of starting, it goes away right away after the engine has started completely.
Spark plugs or something else?
Sometimes, if the engine has been recently shut off (3 mins), if i would start it again my engine would start with a slight knock and hesitate at 500 rpm or so, giving it some gas would solve the problem. Knock only occurs when the engine is at point of starting, it goes away right away after the engine has started completely.
Spark plugs or something else?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Hi I'm Noob
I'm the proud owner of a new (to me) 03 Maxima SE MT 71k miles w HLSD
My first Nissan, and my first Maxima!!! this Forum had a lot to do with me buying her
My buddy ran into someone who want's to trade her wheels and brakes, and go back to stock.
The rims look like Tenzo R GT-05's 18's and the front caliper's are AP Racing
I'm not too excited about the rims, more interested in the Caliper's!
They are coming off an 03 Altima.
With the AP Racing calipers, can I run any aftermarket 13' Rotors
(like the Brembo's in the Groupbuy)
Here's a pic, so what u guys think? Should I trade, or pass???
My first Nissan, and my first Maxima!!! this Forum had a lot to do with me buying her
My buddy ran into someone who want's to trade her wheels and brakes, and go back to stock.
The rims look like Tenzo R GT-05's 18's and the front caliper's are AP Racing
I'm not too excited about the rims, more interested in the Caliper's!
They are coming off an 03 Altima.
With the AP Racing calipers, can I run any aftermarket 13' Rotors
(like the Brembo's in the Groupbuy)
Here's a pic, so what u guys think? Should I trade, or pass???
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 49
From: Central MA
Another noob here...just got my '03 GLE (59k 1-owner miles) a couple of weeks ago. Looking for suggestions on 1) low-cost upgrades to handling (headed to the alignment shop soon 'cuz it is REALLY sensitive to road grade/crown - suspect excessive toe-out) and 2) most effective way to quiet the interior (exhaust drone @ ~2500 RPM). From the corrosion on the exhaust tips that piece doesn't look original so I'm wondering if it's not contributing to the noise.
Also, a question that probably should go in the "audio" conversation here in the forum: what the h*ll do we do to add SAT/iPOD to the factory Bose 6CD changer now that the PAC AAI-NIS2 supply has dried up? Is the Peripheral PXNI 03-06 Nissan Aux Audio Interface any good? Other options? My factory radio - unlike many others according to the posts I've read - still works and sounds great so I don't want to spend the $$$ to replace it right now.
Thanks and it's great to be a 5.5 owner (as a former 6.5 owner who never did much with that car but drive it)!
Also, a question that probably should go in the "audio" conversation here in the forum: what the h*ll do we do to add SAT/iPOD to the factory Bose 6CD changer now that the PAC AAI-NIS2 supply has dried up? Is the Peripheral PXNI 03-06 Nissan Aux Audio Interface any good? Other options? My factory radio - unlike many others according to the posts I've read - still works and sounds great so I don't want to spend the $$$ to replace it right now.
Thanks and it's great to be a 5.5 owner (as a former 6.5 owner who never did much with that car but drive it)!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12
My question is concerning headlights. I have a 2000 maxima and my headlights are really starting to get cloudy/hazy. I am looking to replace these and i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions?
I also was to upgrade to HID's.
I was looking at the Anzo Halo Projector headlights http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...A1R121111.html but i wasn't sure if these were garbage or not. Could anyone help?
I also was to upgrade to HID's.
I was looking at the Anzo Halo Projector headlights http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...A1R121111.html but i wasn't sure if these were garbage or not. Could anyone help?
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
Barely Want to Drive it
Edit: I guess maximas dont like being held under 2kRPM. MPG reading staying above 20 after some redline treatment but still knocking and its actually gotten a little worse. Ill put some premium gas in it next time to see if that fixes that. I feel like such a noob but i guees thats what this thread is here for.
I guess ill just keep the rest of this post here in case anybody has suggestions.
When i first started the engine today when was looking for problems, I could hear a little sound as if air was leaking. the sound was coming from up around where the intake manifold is. The sound remains until the engine is fully warmed up (temp goes halfway) and then sounds like it finally pops the seal shut
Sitting in my driveway my engine sounds more like a diesel than a smooth running V6. Seems to knock in warmer weather BUT knocks less when engine is warmed up, BUT knocks more when the engine gets hot from driving
oil level is fine
NO CEL, Accelerates smooth. tried to pull any code with pedal dance and got 0000 and the only thing i can see that looks odd is around the intake manifold theres a seal or something sticking out. I doubt thats whats causing it or even an issue
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/1814/0320011137.jpg
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/5999/0320011138.jpg
This got me concerned but concerns are gone
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/934/0320011143.jpg
I guess ill just keep the rest of this post here in case anybody has suggestions.
When i first started the engine today when was looking for problems, I could hear a little sound as if air was leaking. the sound was coming from up around where the intake manifold is. The sound remains until the engine is fully warmed up (temp goes halfway) and then sounds like it finally pops the seal shut
Sitting in my driveway my engine sounds more like a diesel than a smooth running V6. Seems to knock in warmer weather BUT knocks less when engine is warmed up, BUT knocks more when the engine gets hot from driving
oil level is fineNO CEL, Accelerates smooth. tried to pull any code with pedal dance and got 0000 and the only thing i can see that looks odd is around the intake manifold theres a seal or something sticking out. I doubt thats whats causing it or even an issue
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/1814/0320011137.jpg
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/5999/0320011138.jpg
This got me concerned but concerns are gone
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/934/0320011143.jpg
Last edited by LongoTE; Mar 20, 2011 at 10:41 AM.
Hello Everyone!
Ok so later on this week I am going on a long trip with the maxi and have been doing some preventative maintenance (Plugs, pcv, all fluids..) I have read many people that randomly had problems with their maf sensor going out and having problems such as low fuel econ, low acceleration, and low power. Is this something I should be worried about? As far as I know, it has not been touched so far (at 129k)
Ok so later on this week I am going on a long trip with the maxi and have been doing some preventative maintenance (Plugs, pcv, all fluids..) I have read many people that randomly had problems with their maf sensor going out and having problems such as low fuel econ, low acceleration, and low power. Is this something I should be worried about? As far as I know, it has not been touched so far (at 129k)
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29
From: Paramount, CA
Have you painted your OEM stock wheels?
Has anyone on this forum painted their stock 17" wheels black? How difficult was it? How did you resurface them if they needed to be resurfaced for fixing curb rash? Any info will be greatly appreciated.