Don't know. The photo is not of the spot where the knock sensor is located at.

 

Fsm stated,is mounted to the block...so is it under the lower_im...or could you tell me where it is...,gracias

 

the knock sensor is underneath the lower intake manifold. Maybe you can see it if you look under the lower intake manifold from the driver's side.

 

Should i have to do fuel pressure release procedure before removing it?

 

No fuel or water or vacuum connections on the knock sensor. Just one wire and held on by one bolt, which I think is 12 mm.

Why do you want to remove it?

 

Just became the new owner of a 2004 I35 w 65K.
I have a bunch of questions

- I was wondering what I need to convert my fog lights to HID.

- Any tips on conditioning the leather, my seats are very stiff.

- My car is missing floor mats, I want original, where can I get them?

- Is there any maintainence I should do now or soon.



Any help would be great!! - Matt

 

[QUOTE=DennisMik;8869345]No fuel or water or vacuum connections on the knock sensor. Just one wire and held on by one bolt, which I think is 12 mm.

Why do you want to remove it?
Maybe a new one could help with the knocking...i only use 93 octane sometimes 89 with fuel additive...but its still there ever so slightly,

Well i guess i was asking if the fuel rail has to be removed?sorry? The picture is a few months old so i dont remember...when i did the vc gasket i didn't read enough i could have cleaned egr,egrtube and did knock sensor

 

Maybe the knock sensor is bad, I don't know. The knock sensor is used to retard the spark timing if the engine is pinging.

You can check for codes, as the knock sensor will not turn on the check engine light. The knock sensor code is P0325.

I don't know of any way to test the knock sensor with 100% accuracy. You can measure resistance, it is supposed to be between 500 and 620 kohms at 80 degrees. If you do a visual inspection of the knock sensor, the plastic shell of the knock sensor cannot have any cracks in it as cracks loosen the electrical connection inside it.

 

Thanks dannis, i will first try to pull any codes ,i haven't had one(2) since January(lean bank 1)(miss fire on cyl 4)

 

hello

 

 

Ok so i went to AutoZone had them check for codes... no codes however i felt something strange while at a stop light on my way home....car idle ok but it started to dip as if it was going to stall ,i picked these up from a doner since the ones for bank one didn't have the dot...could it help...

 

i was just @courtesyNissan website and they have one,not two not the set but one,1,uno dust boot for the price of$150+ is the squeakyness,if thats a word,of the kyb boots that annoying? $150 thats like two years worth of ear plugs



Well C.N.:

 

Maybe I don't understand what part you are looking up. But when you say KYB, that make me think STRUT as in suspension / shock absorber.

If that's the case then it is:

$14.75 @ http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[54050M]+\(A33B&cPath=1956_1957_2046_2048

$12.88 @ http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ew_pnlPartList

If I have misunderstood, please explain better.

 

^^^ i was trying to buy oem dust boots(54050 on blown up chart),a few people highly recommend using oem boots on kyb strut,....i have kyb gr2(4),kyb strut mounts (2)on the way ,i just need to order all four boots.... kyb vs oem is the noise from the kyb boot that noticeable

 

USE OEM BOOTS... Cut a tiny bit

GR2 + h-tech and they ride fine

then coilovers

http://www.shiftice.com/ <-- howto on swapping suspension

 

I want to, but have to find them cheaper btw mines a gle i dont want the drop now since im upgrading everything,so I'll go with se springs for now try to prolong the life of all components. Coilovers maybe on a different life. If i do choose to get the h&r springs,i would only drop the front : really bad streets in neighborhood with steep drops and dont want to leave lower oil pan behind:

 

here is a vid of my idle pay no mind to the hotsauce on the od light

 

Hello I'm new and i search the treads on this subject and i cant find how to wire the headlights and is this a direct bolt on. I found the headlights at a junkyard and got a good deal on them the lights are from a 03 Maxima SE.

 

The headlights will bolt in, but they will not plug and play. The electrical wiring is a lot different.

You will need to go back to the junkyard and get a bunch of wire harness connector ends from the 5.5 wire harness, cut the ends off of your car's wire harness and solder. And I mean solder the wires. Do not merely twist them or solder them. The connections will corrode if you don't solder them and you will be troubleshooting problems later on.

If you are up to this, here is a how-to:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...guide-diy.html

 

Bump....

 

and i thought i had skills.... smh

 

Hi I was having some weird noises come from my car lately and it happens every time i drive. If anyone could watch this 1 minute video and give me any suggestions on what to do, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Try adding some oil..... That valve train doesn't sound good. Your not supposed to hear that.

 

hi im new and recently got 03 maxima after my first oil change I got ses light and when checked the codes are p0300, p0420, p0430, p0011, & p0021 is there any "inexpensive" help for my situation, I have emissions test soon.
thanks for any help

 

This is interesting because codes P0011 & P0420 are for Bank 1 (the cylinders along the firewall) and codes P0021 & P0430 are the same problems for Bank 2 (the cylinders along the radiator).

I think the P0300 is because of the other codes, more specifically because of the P0011 & P0021 codes.

The P0011 & 021 codes are timing issues that say the spark plugs are not firing at the correct time.

The P0300 is saying that two or more cylinders are mis-firing.

The P0420 & 430 are saying that the exhaust gas coming out of the pre-cats is not the proper hydrocarbon mix (too much unburned fuel).

You have to find something common to both Bank 1 & 2 that could cause this because it is highly unlikely that both sides of the engine developed the same identical problem at the same time. But never rule this out.

I would start by checking the wire harness and the connections to the camshaft sensors as these sensors determine ignition timing.

Following is a summary from the Nissan service manual (FSM).

You can download the service manual from - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/

the section specifically about your problems is - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf
page 166 for P0011/021
page 331 for P0420/430
page 302 for P0300

p0011 - Intake valve timing control performance (Bank 1)

There is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree.

* Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
* Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
* Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
* Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
* Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)

P0021 - Same a P0011 except for Bank 2.


P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 1)

Three way catalyst (manifold) does not operate properly, three way catalyst (manifold) does not have enough oxygen storage capacity.

* Exhaust tube
* Intake air leaks
* Injectors
* Injector leaks
* Spark plug
* Improper ignition timing

P0430 - Same a P0420 except for Bank 2.

 

First off, hi! Im new to the forum. I am a seasoned mechanic with most of my knowledge stemming off Evo's and such. Not so much on nissan, so what im saying is that I ve tried everything I know but I havent had any luck fixing an issue on my friends 05 nissan maxima se.

I'll explain the problem in the sequence of events:
1-driving down the road, it lost power and it slowed itself down to about 20mph.
2-it revved fine but didnt want to shift, it was like if it was stuck in first.
3-got towed to my place and we changed out the electronic throttle body and had it relearn.
4-it seemed fine but once I drove it off, it lost all power and didnt even want to move, it does idle perfect but no power. ZERO
5-while parked, it doesnt rev any higher than 2,900ish rpm, aand it studders at that limit and wants to stall.
6-at some point we decided to replace the spark plugs, so we did that and it didnt fix anything either.

I know it sounds like a lot but Im sure someone here has gone through this already. Ive done a good amount of searching for months actually but with any luck. I do have some codes pop up and I can post those up soon.

 

I have a 2001 Maxima, and I have had my ABS, SLIP, and traction off lights on for a couple of years. My wife will be driving the car now so I wanted to fix the problem. I used the self diagnostic technique and found it to be the left rear sensor "open". I ordered the sensor and replaced it, but the connector was different for some reason, so I just used the old connector and cut the wires and re-attached them to make it work. Now the slip light only comes on after hitting about 20km/h and the other 2 lights still stay on.

I used the self diagnostic technique again, but now it is saying left rear sensor "short", does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? could I have attached the 2 wires backwards somehow?

I ordered the part online from an auto parts store, and it was supposed to be for an 01 maxima, but seeing as how the connector was wrong could it just be a wrong sensor?

I am stumped. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as winter is fast approaching.

Thanks

 

No offense intended, but what were you thinking? When you buy a part that is supposed to be an exact fit for your car and that part doesn't fit, you should immediately think that you don't have the right part and stop trying to install it.

While 2 different sensors were used for the 2001 model, the electrical connector was the same. So if the electrical connector was different, the sensor you got was not for a your car at all, maybe not even for a Nissan.

Cars built before August of 2000 used one sensor and cars after that used a different sensor.

I don't know for certain, but the actual sensor may be the same one used by other manufacturers. This is true of oxygen sensors. What you can try is to reverse the wire connections you made. Maybe reverse polarity is the problem.

Otherwise you will just have to get the correct part. I just hope you didn't cut the car's wire harness.

 

Thanks, for the reply.

Did not cut into the wiring harness, also I had this done by a mechanic before going further so I personally didn't cut off the connector. Also they didn't tell me it was the wrong connector until I went to pick the car up.

He also told me that the sensor fit perfectly into the hub and that the only issue was that the connector was different.

I purchased the part from rockauto.com and got a great deal, it was an airtex-wells sensor but so much for a great deal if the part isn't right I guess.

I plan on swapping the wires around tomorrow, as the mechanic seems to think that it must be the sensor that is the problem and doesn't want to deal with the issue other than to replace it again. I got the sensor shipped to me for just under $100 including taxes, where the mechanics cost here is $230 (which is why I shopped elsewhere)

Just wondering though, what could a "short" mean? do I have a broken wire or something?

Thanks again

 

I have an '01 maxima and I used to hear the same noise, but I mostly heard it when I'd shut the car off and didn't notice it so much while running.

After a lot of researching, I found it to be the idle air control valve. The little motor that winds in and out gets noisy over time.

I purchased a new motor and changed it myself and the noise seemed to go away.

Sounds the same as the noise that I used to hear, anyway.

Hope this helps

 

A shorted and an open circuit are the exact opposites of each other. An open circuit means there is no connection. A short circuit means that there is a connection, but the connection is not to what you want it to be.

It's possible that the splice is the cause of the short if each individual wire is not insulated properly. That should be checked.

Repair shops do charge more for the parts than a parts store. I just had the front end aligned on my 97 and they saw that the boots on the power steering rack were torn. They gave me a quote. They want $29 for each boot and I can by a pair of them for $17.

Rock auto has probably the best prices you will find. I don't know if you work on cars yourself as you were having a mechanic do the sensor, but you could get the sensor from a junk yard. It would be a lot less than Rock Auto, but no guarantees.

 

Not new here, but would rather just ask here instead of making a thread, I just purchased another 2000 Maxima SE yesterday, but I noticed my fog lights would not turn on unless my headlights were on. On my 2000 GLE I could turn the fog lights on without the headlights being on, so I'm a little confused. Anybody got anything?

 

the foam on the out side of the factory OEM high pressure steering hose was supposed to be a heat shield but, it sucks *** so it effects/affects the rubber, the rubber degrades then the hose blows.

Then you get an edelman or gates hose with the shiny reflective heat shield on it that actually works.

 

Here is how to do it.
http://www.shiftice.com/fog_rewire.html

Be warned that it may not be legal depending where you live.

 

I've been driving my GLE with fogs only for the past 3 years, it's alright bud. Thanks !

 

Alright so i have been doing a lot of looking on the forum and on the web for a catback exhaust and haven't really found an answer. i have a 2002 maxima se 6 speed manual. what i want to know is what are the differences between the megan, srs, and the hks, and what would be the best overall pick. if possible, are there any better overall catback exhausts.

 

http://www.brmexhaust.com/00-03-nissan-maxima

http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/exhau...urbo-80mm.html I have it and love the sound.

 

hey i got a black 2002 maxima and i want to paint the grille. i was just wondering if the grille would look better with a matte finish or look better with a gloss finish with a black maxima

 

I tryed starting my 01 SE today and it cranked for longer than normal before it jumped to life. All the lights were really, dim, but once I started driving they brightened up, but once the RPMS would drop, theyd go dim...is this a problem with the alternator? Or could it be something else too?