When you are looking at the main page of the 5th gen forum, on the left side above the blue bar that says "Threads in Forum : 5th Generation (2000-2003) Nissan Maxima" there is a button that says "New Thread".

 

It still used the stock pager when I used to auto start it, I would have to press the lock twice to do so. That's why I figured it was stock, I will keep looking for any burnt out fuses. Thanks for the help.

 

Looking for some help. I'm working on lower ball joint replacements. I got the old one pushed out, got the new one pushed in, but now I can't get the steering knuckle to line up. I need it to move another inch or so inwards. Based on the grease marks it seems like the cv joint is still pushed out too far but I can't get it to budge. Is it possible it's damaged? Anything I can try?

 

An axle has 2 joints. One is the CV joint that allows the wheel to turn. The other is a in/out joint that allows the length of the axle to change as the wheel goes up and down on the suspension. I have no idea if you pulled it out too far and maybe some bearing fell out of place. I don't know if it is even possible.

Put the transmission in neutral and rotate the axle by hand, pulling it out a little and pushing it back in as you rotate it. Maybe things will re-seat themselves.

I hope you can get this resolved.

 

Hi guys I have a 01 maxima now so far I have a few problems that im desperately need help with
1. I have two engine codes with P0403
Heres the issue with that one there is nowhere on my car that I can see that have the EGR like the rest cars I've seen.
2. The car wont go pass 80mph or will the rpm pass 2700 without the whole car shaking now is this somethings I need to be concerned about or is it worth the headache
3. Bought some headers but the rear header has the pipe line for EGR d9nt know what to do here

I need someone or who ever that can spoon feed me some info to get it fixed the correct way. Greatly appreciated
Thank You

 

Do you know what repairs the dealer did or how much you paid?? I currently have the p0011 code but no misfires, car is still smooth

 

1. There is no P0403 code. Re-check. What are the other codes?

2. It sounds like the car is in limp mode. You need to be concerned about this. What are all of the check engine codes that you have?

3. Return headers and get correct headers for the emissions that your car was built to meet. Only the early 2001 Maximas built to the Federal standards had a EGR valve. Your car is either California or USA standards. If you don't want to sent them back, take the header to a muffler shop and get a plug welded into the opening.

 

If my car is throwing a catalyst system efficiency error code bank 2 could that be an o2 sensor? Help please??

 

Yes, it could be.

I had the same problem (P0420/0430) two years ago and it went away on its own. If I remember right, it was on an off for about 3 months and then it went away.

This code is purely about emissions and does not affect driveability or anything else. It is set by the ECU monitoring and comparing the signals from the Front and Rear O2 sensors. It seems that on our cars the threshold for raising the code is set too tight.

At any rate, cleaning or replacing the rear O2 sensor may help. I would give it some time before doing it, though.

 

help,..my car infiniti A/t A33 can not reverse,how to fix....thanks

 

check the trans fluid level for starters then check back

 

For to be fixing reversing problem, simply be dropping car in neutral and pushing backwards.


Seriously...we need more details...

 

Hi everyone, I recently bought a 2001 SE and noticed the air conditioning/climate control wasn't blowing during a test drive (the **** for the air was broken). I took the owner's story at face value (that his kid twisted and broke the switch) and bought a new climate control unit online, but upon taking out the old unit I discovered that in fact the area behind the **** was melted away, and that there was a set of cut wires that I believe should have connected to the **** (hard to articulate, here's a photo of the cut wires https://i.imgur.com/e0FOvjL.jpg and melted area https://i.imgur.com/6oNcvo2.jpg).

I haven't had a chance to go to a shop to get it checked out, but do you all have any insight into what sort of repairs this is going to need? I was curious what sort of estimate would be reasonable so I can be prepared when discussing with my mechanic. Thank you in advance!

 

Hi I have a 2000 Nissan maxima GLE lately my service engine light, TCS light, & SLIP lights have been coming on randomly and then go off randomly its like my computer clears all codes and rests after a certain amount of miles and has no faults but then sure enough they come back on do I have a sort in my wiring harness or do I have bad sensors? Im stumped and what is really frustrating is when I hook up a code reader there is no history codes or active codes makes no sense young kid trying to save money- Thank you for reading and your knowledge- Lewis

 

Does the car have the auto climate control or the manual controls?

Probably immaterial though since you won't be doing the work. The photo shows other wires that are spliced together. That is not a factory thing. Maybe the car was vandalized. Maybe those crimps are to bypass some circuits or switches and need to be taken apart and re-done. Who knows.

Something like that is usually repaired on an hourly basis, rarely by fixed quote. Depending on those other spliced wires, you could be looking at 5 to 10 hours for that, at a rate of $80 to $100 an hour. There will probably be some parts, such as connectors but that would be relatively small compared to the labor.

The mechanic could tell you that the wire harness needs to be replaced. That's probably more than what you paid for the car.

You are between a rock and a hard spot.

 

The check engine light will go off by itself after several "drive cycles" providing that the problem is gone. This could translate to several days of driving.

But are you saying that when the light is on, an OBD reader shows no codes? If that is true, I don't know what to say.

The lights are turned on by the ECU. It could be a flaky sensor but you should be able to get a code while the check engine light is on.

 

Hi My maxima 2001 has been making sounds lately it started out like a high pitch noise and now is like a rotating crank. No other problems except the noise which is randmly heard when I turn the negine as it gets hotter the sound stops I took it to the mechanic and he said is the timing blet but all he did was listen to it... Could it be the water pump instead? Or should I pay for the pump fixture?

 

Thank you for your reply, the car has manual climate controls. There's an aftermarket car radio installed that could explain the other wires not appearing factory installed.

I was under the impression that the cut wires used to have a connector (?) on it that would plug into the back of the climate control unit (thus it would have four plugs attached to it instead of only three on mine right now; the melted plastic indicates where that fourth plug would have been). My further understanding was during the previous owner, something happened that caused the plastic to melt around the connector, and someone decided to cut it off resulting in the cut wires in the photo.

Is that understanding correct? If so, would it be possible to remove an identical connector on a junked car, bring it back to my car, and crimp/solder each one of the cut wires to the corresponding wire on that connector?

 

Take a video of it.
In this age I think everyone has a 1080p capable phone.

Perhaps he meant accessory belt because these engines use chains.

 

Is there a way I can tell what color my car is? I know its silver but there are 4 difrrent types.

 

This explanation helps a lot. The job seems to be a lot simpler than I was thinking earlier.

I'm sure that a connector was cut off as Nissan (or any other car maker) would not leave cut ends like that.

The manual controls would have 3 connectors for actual heater control and one connector for dash lights (small one with 2 wires).

Of the other 3, one of the connectors is for the fan speed switch. It has 6 wires in it (2 rows of 3 wires) and the cut wires in your photo could very well be for this connector. In the photo, I can see 3 wires that match the color code for this connector. I can't really see the other wires.

The other 2 connectors are bigger, a twenty pin connector and an 18 pin connector.

The wire colors for the fan switch are:
blue with red stripe
blue with white stripe
blue with black stripe
blue with yellow stripe
orange with black stripe
solid black
(ignore all the silver bands, they are not part of the color code)

You could certainly go to a junkyard and cut off a connector. All years of the 5th generation (2000 - 2003) have the same connector. But make sure you are looking at a car with manual controls. The auto climate control is totally different and won't have a connector like you need.

The GLE model only has auto control so don't waste your time.
The GXE is the basic/cheapest model and rarely had auto controls.
The SE model is maybe 50/50 on the 2 types of controls.

As far as splicing goes, I am a believer in soldering. Crimp connections will eventually go bad, but admittedly, if they are done right, it will be many years before that happens.

 

All Nissan paint color codes are three digits long and may contain letters and numbers. There is a tag on the firewall, approximately center, that has the paint code. If your label was removed or you can't find the color code for your Nissan, the phone number to North American Nissan Corporation is 1-800-647-7261. They may need your VIN and should be able to tell you the color code over the phone.

You gotta learn about a search program called Google. I typed in "paint color codes for 2003 maxima" and got more hits than I have time left to live. Here's the first couple.

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...lor-codes.html
read post # 8

http://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up...an-Maxima.html

This one has ALL Nissan codes, not just Maxima.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...n/2003/maxima/

/spoonfeed

 

I have a 2000 nissan maxima se 5 spd
I recently changed the tps and it idles fine but when i accelerate the car it stays at 1600-2000 and doesnt pass there unless i really hit the gas. What could be the problem. Any help is much appreciated thanks

 

Hey everybody, I've had my 2003 maxima for a little while and I'm slowly learning how to take care of it thanks to your help. But I'm having an issue every time I turn right. I get a crazy vibration. Now I checked all the obvious things like tires hubs bearings and cv axles. Is there anything I'm missing. A friend of mine says my differential could be going bad. My car is limited slip by the way. I'm kind of stuck I just don't want to keep replacing parts and. Not fixing anything. The help would be great.

 

Ok to piggy back on myself. The car rumbles alil while driving straight but gets worse when turning right. Or during hard turning. I checked my vin code it is an hlsd transmission. Maybe the bearings need to be replaced. I looked around but I haven't seen anyone with my issue. Oh I did change my passenger side motor mount. I noticed it was bad. I had a front end accident 2 years ago. But as said above I already replaced all those other parts already.

 

At about 145,000 miles this car has been falling apart! Last year was alternator and battery I did on my own with the help of the forums and YouTube and so far since I had check engine light for cam and crank shaft sensors 3 in all at about $175 for 3 of them and still have check engine light on so wife take car to wash and does engine as we'll lol why I have no idea but all seemed fine and not sure if this even has anything to do with my current issue but next day she starts car and battery light and brake light is on! Alternator dead? Has new alt ac belt

 

Where did you get the alternator from? It is not uncommon for these to fail. Many people report changing theirs every so often. Test the voltage with the engine running and see if it is low.

 

I feel his pain, I've changed my alternator like five times in the past year. I can't figure out why they keep dying.

 

Can I use a transmission from a 3.5L nissan maxima on my 3.0L 00 nissan maxima? How about a transmission from a 02 nissan maxima?

 

VQ35 trans will not work in a Max originally equipped with the 3.0 engine.

 

Auto or manual?

It matters in this case. As far as I know, the VQ35 transmission can be used on the VQ30, but that is for the manual. I believe there are some clutch/flywheel variations to consider but it's been done before on a few occasions that I'm aware of.

If it's auto, I'm not sure because of the transmission ECU. It may or may not receive that transmission well.

I will yield to the expertise of others here however but there may be some hope in this.

 

Hey guys so i finally bought my first car (im 18) a 02 max se and of course me being super happy about it, i open the hood rev the engine for my boys to show off it sounds much more meaner than his ****ty accord and then i dropped the hood... Well when i closed the hood i guess the headlights got moved and the small piece that points the hid part inside moved from its location, well idk if it broke or something
But now the. Thing is just there loose inside so idk what to do.. It sucks. Because i dont wanna buy brand new headlights because i know they cost 200 a piece

 

Pull both bulbs out, then stick your fingers in both the low beam and high beam reflector and pull the reflector back towards the housing. It should click back into place..... I had this happen with some aftermarket headlights.

 

@cauzindrama thank ypu alot man, i tried doing that and it did clip back where it goes, but upon further inspection i did realize the headlights are broken, where it screws so i guess i will need a new set of headlights anyhow, anyone knows where i could get them for a good price?

 

I have been working on my friends 2000 Maxima and he recently did some brake work, new front calipers, rotors, pads. I came over to help him bleed it. I bled it with the car on in the order RR, LR, FR, FL. I bled the hell out of it, and all it would do is eventually build up pressure after pumping and if you held it in, it would all go away, but at first it goes straight to the floor, and if you let it sit for like 5 seconds. I went and rechecked all the bleeder screws to make sure nothing was leaking, I found no leaks anywhere. Bled it again and same problem. I assumed the M/C was bad, put a new one in after bench bleed, and no luck. Same problem. I then unplugged the vacuum line to the booster and plugged it, pump the pedal once and it has quite a bit of pressure, second time and its solid as a rock, if the pedal is held down the pressure stays. Tried to drive it like this but unfortunately my friend is not strong enough to brake without the booster. Plug the booster back in and immediately the pedal goes to the floor. I am skeptical over whether or not it is the booster because the pedal is not hard to push when the booster is plugged into the vacuum. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

So i left the car sitting for a few days and something interesting happened today, when i tried to start it, it only cranked onced but wouldnt start, so i though maybe bad battery (the battery looked very old anyhow) replaced with a newer battery and still nothing!! So i am like wth? The car is the 2002 automatic, a friend who is a lil more car inclined than me says bad starter?? But idk any suggestions??

 

If the battery voltage is OK (12.4 V or better), then most likely, the problem is the starter, or the connection to the starter, or perhaps the return/ground connection. Unless it's the ignition key ...

Does the started click when you turn the ignition key?
If so, it would help if you could measure the voltage on the starter; are you getting 12V there?

 

yeah it clicks and i can hear the fuel pump, and it cranks but only once, like it doesnt crank over and over, it just cranks once, and no i have not been able to check the battery voltage, i will take a look at the ground connection of the starter now and see if thats the problem

 

Hi... I'm new here, and I have a question!

I have a 2001 Maxima GXL with 135K (A/T, no T/C) and the P0505 code. I understand the IACV and potential Engine Mount issues. I've pulled the ECM, and the STA509 chip and the motor mount chip (I think--1st NEC chip to far left when harness is facing you, slightly offset from other 2 NEC chips) are both toasted.

I am going to unplug the engine mount harnesses when I get home, and a new Hitachi IACV and TPS are on order.

I'm concerned about the just having the ECM repaired, though, due to some corrosion I saw on some surface mount resistors. I'd like to order a used/refurb one and have it reprogrammed at the dealer, but I can't find any with the same part numbers.

SO--my big question is this: Is it ok to get one with the same "Big Letters" (3T, in my case) even if the small letters don't match (A56-R63 ZE7)? I read somewhere that the small letters are just a firmware version, so they change every time the firmware was revised at the factory. Is this true? I plan to have the ECM reprogrammed at the dealer anyway--update and key coding--so would any 3T ECM work once reprogrammed? This is the $300+ dollar question...

TL;DR--Can I use any ECM with the same big letters in my car as long as I get it reprogrammed at a dealer, or do the small dot-matrix letters on the ECM really make a big difference?

 

Hello all, I've been a long time lurker and found most of my answers except today.

Troubles began about a week ago. I would turn on AC, but noticed no air was coming out from the vents to the cabin even though that mode was selected. I would cycle through the modes and it would eventually start blowing on the selected mode. Today, I turn it on, it's blowing through the floor/window defogger (sorry not sure what its called) even though the mode to blow through the cabin is selected. I cycle through, but now it's stuck just blowing to floor/defogger. The air is cold. I imagine there is a flap that just moves around inside to change the flow of direction. Is there a fuse for this or way to switch this flap out?

*update - So I did a little more research and it seems like it could be my motor flap actuator. Does this sound right?