DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Chrisousley;9063302]There are other things that could cause the P0300. Here is the list from page EC-330 the service manual:

Improper spark plug
Insufficient compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
The injector circuit is open or shorted
Injectors
Intake air leak
The ignition secondary circuit is open or shorted
Lack of fuel
Drive plate or flywheel
Heated oxygen sensor 1 (upstream)

Link to service manual:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/EC.pdf

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Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Infiniti I30t. It's been a great running car, but last night something weird happened. As I was driving up to my house I noticed a light flickering on the dash that I'd never seen before (little guy with a big circle in his lap, which I assume is the air bag indicator). As I pulled into my driveway and put the car in Park all the lights on my dash started flickering (ABS, airbag, oil, etc.).

I shut the car off and then tried starting it again, but it would not start. All the lights would flash and when I turned the key I would get a small clicking sound and then nothing. I recently installed a brand new starter and battery, but I got under the hood and checked the battery terminals anyway. I had cleaned the terminals when I put the new battery in and they were still clean and the connections snug.

I called my local parts store and the guy said it sounds like a ground is loose or bad somewhere. I have no experience with this sort of thing so I thought I would post about it here and see if I can get any advice and/or suggestions.

Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like the battery is discharged. You need to figure out why.

You need to get a voltmeter if you are going to diagnose this yourself. Start by checking the battery voltage. A fully charged battery with show approx 12.5 volts.

If the battery voltage is below 12.0 volts, it is discharged. Somewhere below 10 volts, it cannot start the car.

Now the "why is the battery discharged?" It is one of 2 reasons. You have a bad alternator or a bad battery. Do not rule the battery out!

First, take the battery and get it charged and tested. With a fully charged battery installed in the car, start the car. With the engine idling, check the battery voltage. It should read approx 14.2 volts. If you are getting a reading of 12.x volts, the alternator is not working.

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I had the battery tested today and it passed with flying colors. Replaced the battery in the car and drove it back to the parts store and the guy put the tester on it. The alternator failed - bad core and voltage regulator. The parts store has one in stock for $150 so I'm going to buy that and install it myself. I'll save $300 from having the shop do it (the guy there wanted to charge me $250 for the alternator and another $200 for labor).

I can tell this is going to be a long job. Searching now for some how-to videos.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You need to do several steps (condensed version):
1) disconnect battery
2) remove right front wheel and plastic splash shield that is behind it
3) loosen the belt tensioner
3a) loosen 14mm bolt in center of pulley. Do this from underneath.
3b) remove belt tension
4) disconnect battery wire and voltage regulator wires from alternator.
5) remove top bolt of alternator
6) remove plastic air shield from beneath the alternator
7) disconnect wire from a/c compressor
8) remove 4 bolts that attach the a/c compressor
9) remove lower bolt that holds alternator on
10) maneuver alternator down and out.

The alternator has a collar/sleeve that the lower bolt goes through. You will probably have to adjust the position of this to match the old alternator. Light taps with a hammer will do it.

When installing the new alternator, I use a screwdriver through the upper alternator bolt hole to hold it in place while I put the lower bolt in.

Don't forget to plug the wire back on to the a/c compressor.

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Thanks, Dennis. I found this great thread on the ORG that has a bunch of info on changing the alternator. I was a bit hesitant at first about doing it myself until I found this thread. My only concern is that I don't have a cement driveway for hoisting the car up on (just hard gravel/dirt and grass). Also, the ground wire and the top bracket it's attached to are pretty rusty. I've soaked that thing with PB Blast, but it's on there pretty good and the bracket bends when I'm trying to turn the bolt.

jay78

could u guys tell me were is located the throttle position sensor on a max 2002 it just kind of diferent that the 2001 motor and the pedal position sensor is the whole pedal? thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The accelerator pedal position sensor is built into the pedal assembly and is not sold separately.

The throttle position sensor is part of/built into the throttle actuator motor and is not sold separately. All it does is provide feedback to the ECU that the throttle plate did move. It is not adjustable.

With the electronic throttle on the 3.5 engine, all the parts are different compared to the cable operated throttle on the 3.0 engine.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Are you talking about the the belt tensioner or the top alternator bolt?

If you have to jack up the car on a soft surface, you need to put something with a bigger footprint under the jack to spread out the load. A piece of 2x4 would work. You will have to do something similar for the jack stand.

jay78

thanks buddy!

JMag90

I am having a really frustrating time with my 2001 Maxima and it sounds similar to some of the recent posts in this thread.

I just replaced the alternator with a reman from AAP (transverse motors not even once). I did have the alt "bench tested" before I put it in although I know it isn't worth much. Now on acceleration the battery and brake lights get really bright (Nissan's sign for alternator issues).
The tech at AAP checked the voltage across the battery cold, at idle, and revved. Something like 13, 13.8, and 14.4 I believe. So that seems to check out.
However on the way home the lights are still lighting up and if I turn on the A/C or radio they flash quickly. No engine light or codes thrown.
What should I look for before I get down there and pull the whole belt and alt off again? Check the voltage coming from the alternator? Replace any alt fuses? Test the ground on the alt (not sure how to do this)? Really at a loss here.

Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

When you took the car to AAP and the tech was measuring battery voltage, were the lights in the instrument cluster on at that time? The voltage readings he got are good.

I don't know if you are dealing with an intermittent problem or not.

What you should check is the 2 wire plug on the alternator. See if the plug is seated all the way and if the 2 wires are in the plastic plug all the way.

For the alternator to be producing 14 volts, the one wire (yellow/black stripe) is making contact. The other wire (white/red stripe) is for the dash lights. This is the one in question.

JMag90

The lights did not come on during his test until I revved it as requested. He did not check the voltage across the alternator to battery so maybe I should have him do that. Also should probably replace the alt s. fuse and get a multimeter myself so I can check all the wires.

The problem seems consistent in the fact that when I have a lot of things on and rev the engine to a high RPM the lights go on. The more things I have on, the lower RPM I have to hit for the lights to come on.

Could this mean my belt isn't tight enough and it's slipping at a high RPM? I used the common "can barely turn it to 90 degrees" trick on the belt.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Checking the voltage anywhere in the car is fine. You could use the trunk light if you wanted to. The voltage is going to be the same all over the car.

If the alt s fuse was open, the alternator would not charge at all. It won't hurt to replace it as there have been fuses that make intermittent connection. I am not too optimistic on this being your problem.

The other alternator fuse, # 30 - Meter - powers a lot of things as well. Tail lights, dash lights, warning lights - 23 circuits in all - so since you aren't experiencing a lot of "dead" accessories, this fuse is probably good.

This part does not give me warm fuzzy feelings about that alternator. It sounds like it cannot produce power over a certain amount of amps. In the world of electricity, voltage and amperage are two separate things. The two work together, but having one (in your case, voltage) does not mean you will have the other. Personally, I would go fight them for another alternator.

While being able to turn the belt to 90º might be looser that spec, I would think it was tight enough. Spec is being able to deflect the belt between the a/c compressor and the crankshaft only .18 inch with a force of 65 pounds.

JMag90

Wow thanks so much this has been incredibly helpful. Is there any way for them to measure the amperage? I've heard this is difficult to do or can't be done with a standard multimeter (too many amps for most to handle I think).

I did install it myself and I don't think I'm an idiot (I am in engineering) but I do want to rule out any installation error. I think I'll check the belt and tensioner again and then if they can measure the amperage have them do that.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The alternator output is supposed to be 110 amps. A multimeter can't handle a load like that. A good multimeter will handle 20 amps. Other meters will only do 10 amps.

Unless you dropped the alternator, installing it is pretty foolproof. About the only installer error would be the wiring connections. Forgetting to tighten the battery cable and not getting the small 2 wire plug seated all the way.

For AAP to test the alternator amperage, you would probably have to take the alternator off the car so they can test it on a bench tester. Most of these big chains have a tester in every store.

JMag90

So I have one more update before I get down and pull that alt off. I picked up a multimeter and the batter is runnning right at 14.3V at idle. But this is the weird part.

With the car idling as soon as I start turning on things (a/c, lights, radio) the voltage across the battery drops like a rock. 14...13... by 12 I shut everything off to get back above 14.

I'm guessing for some reason the alternator can't keep up unless it's at idle? Or does this indicate a problem with the battery itself?

Thanks again.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The voltage regulator, which is built inside the alternator, is probably bad. If the battery were to be the problem, it would not be able to hold its charge due to internal shorting of the plates. If you could start the car, the alternator would mask this problem until it got real bad.

A fairly reliable test that you can do with your multimeter is when you are done driving the car for the day, measure the battery voltage. A good battery will be around 12.5 volts. The next day before you start the car, measure the battery voltage again. It should be the same. If you could go 24 hours, it should still be the same, but you would be more likely to see any change if the battery had a problem.

Maybe you are not aware of this, but the car is always drawing power from the battery for the clock, radio and the alarm system. It is a small amount, but after a month, the battery would be discharged enough that the car wouldn't start.

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Hi JMag. I've been having the same issues as you and it is indeed the alternator. The core and voltage regulator inside my alternator are bad and so it can suck the battery dry if I drive it for extended periods, which is why I don't. I can make very short trips, like just down the road to the store or the gas station, but if I drive too long or too far then when I get home and shut the car off it won't start again.

I am taking it to the garage Thursday (got a better quote at another garage so I'm taking it there). Hopefully it will just be the alternator that needs replacing.

dcam0326

Anyone know where I can get an o2 sim? o2simulator.com does not appear to have them in stock the past month and they don't reply to inquiries. I've got my emissions coming up in september and can't seem to find any place that sells a similar product.

Also how does one check if a LCA is bad? I've got an inconsistent highway wobble (most likely my blown suspension) but I'd like to make sure it's not something else. Anything else I can inspect to see if it might be the cause?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I've seen many recent positive feedback for the O2 non-foulers, anti foulers for emissions type stuff. Do you have headers or gutted pre-cats?

LCA's usually give a clunk when reversing &/or during light throttle through a turn, typically the wheel that is the one that would be spinning the least. Unless it was horrid I wouldn't think an LCA would cause wobble since it's usually just the bushings that go. Might be ITR's or OTR's.

dcam0326

Thanks I'll check those out. I have gutted cats. Not sure why my current chip failed on me =/

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I have an anti-fouler on my front precat since it was throwing a P0430 code. The code never came back.

I bought it here, perfect fit.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o08_s00

As far as the LCA you will know it is bad if you are turning at higher speeds and feel the car wandering or even jerking.

dcam0326

I have to go run the code again but I remember originally I was getting P0420. My main cat is the one that is gutted actually (sorry that whole ordeal with the cats is a blur now). Would this work for that as well? At work at the moment so I'll look into doing the job more later, but it seems like its just plug-n-play. Almost seems too good to be true

edit: after doing some reading it looks like bank 1 sensor 2 might not have the clearance to fit a spacer like the anti fouler. Ugh.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

There is clearance. It isn't easy, but there is just enough clearance. It took me 10 minutes to install on the front pre-cat O2 sensor (Bank 2) as that has barely enough clearance. If you have a P0420 code (Bank 1) then you are lucky as that O2 sensor takes 5 minutes to install an anti-fouler on.

I'm assuming you have a cali spec maxima which has 4 O2 sensors and not fed spec, correct?

You want to install the anti-foulers on the O2 sensors AFTER the pre-cats. If you have a gutted main cat you won't throw a code, but if you have any sniffer emissions testing it won't pass.

If you have fed spec then it's totally different...I believe you will have install the anti-fouler on the O2 sensor AFTER the main cat.

Links to the O2 sensor diagrams.

CALI SPEC

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...nsorsedit9.jpg

FED SPEC

http://nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima/pro...2_sesnor_1.gif

dcam0326

Thanks! Yeah I live in Ct so no sniffer tests (thank god) and it's cali spec. I'm gonna give this a try. Test is 9/1 so I guess I'll probably just fail it and use the grace period to install the antifoulers.

Edit: OH dear lord. Just went to AAP to run my codes:

P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P1320

WHAT IS GOING ON? Could this be a result of having a non-working o2 sim attached? A fuse or grounding issue? I know the 1320 is from a small momentary misfire I had the other day, but having all the o2 sensors throwing codes is just plain odd...

edit2: Bad fuse. Sorry.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

If I were you I would just remove the O2 sim. Most or all of those codes could be related to the O2 sim install. Remove the sim and see if they go away. If they do then get your test done ASAP before a P0420 or P0430 pop up.

I wouldn't fail the test because if you do they will look more closely at your car on the next inspection so you may not pass the visual inspection with anti-foulers since you can't modify any emissions equipment.

dcam0326

It actually turned out to be a bad engine control fuse. Thank god. Brought the o2 sim back too! Anyway, I've read they only do a SES/CEL scan in Ct and if you don't throw any codes, you're good to go.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Nice!

Pave Marin

Hi everyone.
I bought a 2001 Maxima GLE with 165000miles.
Not quite a good condition. i have this car for a month and I dont lknow much from before.
I figured some things already but here are my questions:

The front left speaker and left twitter doesn't work (the didn't work, then did, now don't worjk again). The sub doesnt work (never did)
Question: Should I try to fix the relay in the on the Bose subwoofer plate or the head unit? anyone with similar problems.

I have A P0720 code and Check engine soon-light. I decided to replace the transm.speed sensor with OEM $30 from ebay. Opinions?


Please help about the speakers. Its killing me

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You probably have 2 problems with the Bose. The Bose head unit has a tendency to "lose" a channel. A new head unit (preferably not a Bose) will solve that problem.

The sub woofer is usually cold solder connections for the relay, but the relay has gone bad. Try re-soldering the relay first and if that doesn't work, replace the relay.

As for the Transmission speed sensor off of e-bay, it's hard to say if you will get something decent off of e-bay. If it is still working 6 months from now, you have a good chance that it is OK. You are better off getting parts from rockauto.com.

Pave Marin

the subwoofer is not cutting out. it just isnt working. I opened it and checked the relay it is well soldered but still I ordered a new one.
and for the malfunction of front left speaker + twitter im was thinking of doiing this:
http://www.shiftice.com/Maxima_02-03...dio_repair.pdf

Pave Marin

btw anybody manage to do this??:

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can try taking apart the Bose like the ShiftIce website shows. Maybe that will work for you. Adding an aux input has been done, so it is up to you. But have you checked the fuse for the woofer? It is in the fuse box under the hood next to the battery.

But between the speaker problem and wanting an aux input on a 15 year old Bose radio that is lucky to last 10 years is like Don Quixote jousting at windmills. You are wasting your time. That radio is on its way out.

For $150 you can buy another radio with with bluetooth, aux input, USB input, hands free phone dialing, a cd that reads multiple formats plus more. And the $150 includes buying all the installation pieces/adapters.

that's my .02 but it is your car and your decision.

Rafyas787

Hi,
I'm new to forums and I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE a week ago. I've been doing some maintenance my self. I just noticed that when I start the car in the morning and I move the steering wheel the belt starts squealing and the turning the wheel is hard. As it gets warmer and keep moving it starts getting better. Steering fluid is is full. I got the belt today and will change it in the morning. Is there anything that you guys recommend me to do? Fluid change? Some additive to put in the system?
Thanks in advance

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Change the belt and call it a day.

Nissan does not have any recommended oil change interval for the power steering. No one here on the org seems to argue with that, either.

One important note about the power steering. It does not use the standard power steering fluid. It uses Dexron ATF fluid, which Nissan sells as "Genuine NISSAN PSF II". If you use regular power steering fluid, the power steering will whine and buzz all the time.

DO NOT EVER put additives in the power steering. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it. And if it is broke, an additive ISN'T going to fix it.

Here is a link to the FSM (Nissan Factory Service Manual). In section MA (Maintenance) on pages 7 and 8 you will find the recommended maintenance and the intervals it should be performed at.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/

Welcome to Maxima.org.

5GAEMAX

I have a 2003 SE and I'm wanting to replace a few dead bulbs in my radio and climate control buttons. I found a link on here, but it redirects to a completely irrelevant thread.

Do any of you have these bulb sizes handy or direct me in the right way? Thanks in advance.

nahid

Hello, all! I'm new here.

I'm having problems w/ my passenger side fog light. I recently installed a new one (completely replaced the bulb/light/etc.) due to the original one not working. However, when I installed the new one, it worked initially, but then once I screwed on the headlight, the fog light would not come on. I checked the fog light fuse, it's working fine, what other suggestion/recommendations can I have for this problem?

I am not an expert at car service/maintenance, so any help would greatly be appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There is no reason for the headlight to cause the fog light to stop working. You are probably the victim of unfortunate timing.

I would suggest that you double check that the wire harness connector as good and tight. I would also check and see if the light bulb burned out.

If these ideas don't help, get you voltmeter out and be prepared to do some electrical troubleshooting.

One thing that would help us to help you is that when you ask for advice on the car, tell us what year car you have. There are differences in every year of the car and you could get incorrect information.

nahid

Thank you DennisMik.

I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE. I didn't mean to say the headlight causes the fog light to not work. When I originally took the headlight out, I unplugged the high beam. I'm sure that's not the reason. I just find it odd that sometimes if i slightly hit the fog light or the side of the bumper the light will come on. I'm thinking it has to do w/ the connection, but not sure.