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i had a professional install the napa aftermarket ones, and shortly after the nissan oem ones as well, so i couldn't spoon feed u exact locations, i also looked for the recall nissan PDF for you, i couldn't find it the other day ,and now i took more time for you and i did find it in 5 mins so enjoy the spoon feed
maybe you could have looked a tiny bit harder and found it for for your self. sorry if was trying to help you , no need to bite the hand spoon feeding you. , kindness is key, best wishes to you.
Have a 01 116 on the dash only owned the car for about 10 months, previous owner changed front struts and shocks( guessing because sticker was still on top head) what could cause clunking when almost sounds metal on metal. Possible wheel bearing ?
Have a 01 116 on the dash only owned the car for about 10 months, previous owner changed front struts and shocks( guessing because sticker was still on top head) what could cause clunking when almost sounds metal on metal. Possible wheel bearing ?
Could be many things, you need to give more details. When does it happen? Going slow, going fast? When turning, if so, which way? Only while moving and turning, or also when just sitting still? Going over bumps? Accelerating or braking, or just cruising, or all 3? What does the clunking itself sound like, best way you could describe? Where does it sound like its coming from? Can you "feel" the clunk in the steering wheel or is it just noise? How long has it been occurring? Does temperature make any difference? Theres no such thing as giving too many details - you need to be much more specific about your issue if you want any guidance that is at all useful - the more info you can give us, the more info we can potentially give you.
Please Help Me Figure out what is wrong with my baby.
2000 Nissan Maxima GLE
For the past 6 months I have had a constant issue that I cannot solve and it is honestly getting to me. I have spent hours going through previous threads on this website and tried other forums and nobody has had a solution. Here is my issue:
For the past 6 months or so my car has had trouble starting. Lets say its the morning I need to go to the store. I get in my car, I put the key in the ignition and switch it to "on". I like to give the fuel pump time to pressurize the system. First start of the day, my baby fires up like a new car. I drive to the store no issues. After spending 30 minutes in the store, I return to my car and this is where the issue presents itself. I turn the key and the car begins to crank. Its cranks but refuses to turn over and start. In the past I could get the car to start up on the second crank easily, as if it was a new car. Now however, Its gotten to the point where the second crank dosent work and on the third crank the car has a really rough time turning over. Like it barely wants to turn over. Tapping the gas pedal has no effect. If i have to stop the car again it gets to the point to where the car wont turn over at all. Ill have to wait hours for the car to finally turn over, but if I give it 15+ hours it starts up like a new car. I dont have any engine codes on the dashboard.
I also purchased a code reader to analyze the Live data. Nothing seems crazy but both Short Fuel trims are alittle high, around 15-20 Percent. I believe this means Im running lean and possibly have a vacuum leak but I dont see how that could be my problem.
Please somebody must have some insight that I dont know. Im just a 20 year old kid trying to figure this out on my own and its really getting to me.
Please Help Me Figure out what is wrong with my baby.
2000 Nissan Maxima GLE
For the past 6 months I have had a constant issue that I cannot solve and it is honestly getting to me. I have spent hours going through previous threads on this website and tried other forums and nobody has had a solution. Here is my issue:
For the past 6 months or so my car has had trouble starting. Lets say its the morning I need to go to the store. I get in my car, I put the key in the ignition and switch it to "on". I like to give the fuel pump time to pressurize the system. First start of the day, my baby fires up like a new car. I drive to the store no issues. After spending 30 minutes in the store, I return to my car and this is where the issue presents itself. I turn the key and the car begins to crank. Its cranks but refuses to turn over and start. In the past I could get the car to start up on the second crank easily, as if it was a new car. Now however, Its gotten to the point where the second crank dosent work and on the third crank the car has a really rough time turning over. Like it barely wants to turn over. Tapping the gas pedal has no effect. If i have to stop the car again it gets to the point to where the car wont turn over at all. Ill have to wait hours for the car to finally turn over, but if I give it 15+ hours it starts up like a new car. I dont have any engine codes on the dashboard.
I also purchased a code reader to analyze the Live data. Nothing seems crazy but both Short Fuel trims are alittle high, around 15-20 Percent. I believe this means Im running lean and possibly have a vacuum leak but I dont see how that could be my problem.
Please somebody must have some insight that I dont know. Im just a 20 year old kid trying to figure this out on my own and its really getting to me.
have you checked the ignition switch behind the key barrel, could be a possiblity it has worn out/ bad connections when it has a bit of heat through the cabling, or check your naps unit that your ignition barrel plugs into.one other thing could be a fuse that may not be good and fails when heat soak gets to it(possibly engine cont 1 fuse, located in fuse box near battery).just giving some ideas on other possiblilties of lack of spark/starting.
Hi all, I did some searching and went through a few pages of results but couldn't find a definitive answer.
I have a 2002 Maxima at 144k with what I assume to be the timing chain rattle that these cars get.
I'll get rattling that sounds kinda like lifter tick when I cold start the car for about a second. The rattling can also be heard when I'm on the throttle from 1.5k to ~3k rpms. I've noticed this start to happen probably the last 6k miles.
What I'm wondering is what does this mean for the life of the engine? I've read some people say that they've had the rattle for tens of thousands of miles and just to ignore it, and some say that it'll cause engine failure sooner rather than later.
Does driving hard affect the longevity of the tensioner? Should I baby the car until I can get some engine work done or just drive like normal and keep the oil topped?
I just bought a 2001 Nissan Maxima GXE two weeks ago at 94,000 miles and I realized I need motor mounts. I saw that there are some WITH sensors and some WITHOUT. I think my car DOES have sensors. My question is, how many of them have sensors so I won't buy the wrong ones off of eBay? The car is an automatic if that helps.
first off dont buy mounts from ebay unless you want to do them again in a year, and secondly automatics have 2 motor mount sensors front and back motor mounts (radiator, and firewall mounts). you can disconnect them if you want they don't do too much will not cause any code issues. it is said the sensors will stiffen the mounts with the fluid inside them over 1000 rpm, so thats all they do really. if your mounts are shot they are barely doing that anyway.
you can either replace the mounts with oem or trusted aftermarket mounts, you can replace the front and back mounts with manual mount housings (they mount right up) and insert es poly bushings only available for manual mounts, or you can DIY poly fill the mounts you have now in your AT.
first off dont buy mounts from ebay unless you want to do them again in a year, and secondly automatics have 2 motor mount sensors front and back motor mounts (radiator, and firewall mounts). you can disconnect them if you want they don't do too much will not cause any code issues. it is said the sensors will stiffen the mounts with the fluid inside them over 1000 rpm, so thats all they do really. if your mounts are shot they are barely doing that anyway.
you can either replace the mounts with oem or trusted aftermarket mounts, you can replace the front and back mounts with manual mount housings (they mount right up) and insert es poly bushings only available for manual mounts, or you can DIY poly fill the mounts you have now in your AT.
Ok, that sounds good. I also had the codes PO420 & PO430. In your experience, would that mean replacing just the O2 sensors or replacing both catalytic converters?
im not entirely sure on those codes, but do a quick search around here inside the 5th gen forum and you should be able to find more than plenty of info on those specific codes. i did a quick search and it looked like a simple replacement of the cats would do the trick with those codes but I didn't read more into it.. again quick search and you will be on your way,
Hey Wsup y’all new here I bought a 01 Maxima GLE auto and had for about three weeks now. Yesterday the radiator fan started shaking and it looks like it needs a rubber bushing or something like that. My question is... do I bring it to mechanic or is it a easy fix I can do it myself ??
(P.S. this is my first car)
order the ruber bushing part, and you can do it yourself, and see if that fixes the problem, easy peasy, if it doesnt fix it , maybe then go to mechanic
I was wondering if any of y'all use either SeaFoam or Berryman's to clear the fuel lines in your Maximas?
If so, which one is better and safe to use? I know it most likely won't help with my P0420 & P0430 codes but at the very least, I can do something about the sluggishness of the car.
I was wondering if any of y'all use either SeaFoam or Berryman's to clear the fuel lines in your Maximas?
If so, which one is better and safe to use? I know it most likely won't help with my P0420 & P0430 codes but at the very least, I can do something about the sluggishness of the car.
Thanks in advance!
Code P0420 indicates that the catalytic converter is not functioning efficiently, therefore increasing the output of harmful pollutants by your Nissan
I believe I have found a 2008 discussion thread on this over at:
I was wondering if any of y'all use either SeaFoam or Berryman's to clear the fuel lines in your Maximas?
If so, which one is better and safe to use? I know it most likely won't help with my P0420 & P0430 codes but at the very least, I can do something about the sluggishness of the car.
Thanks in advance!
I've been using Seafoam twice a year for the past 5 years. My 2001 since new runs great. I used to have to go through govt. required emissions testing once every 2 years here in BC. My emissions dropped 50% across the board over the two years between tests. I have been using it ever since. I put it in my Sea-Doo and lawn mower once a year as well. This is my first post. ( I came across this site when I stumbled upon the fog light rewire mod). I'm not a bot
I've been using Seafoam twice a year for the past 5 years. My 2001 since new runs great. I used to have to go through govt. required emissions testing once every 2 years here in BC. My emissions dropped 50% across the board over the two years between tests. I have been using it ever since. I put it in my Sea-Doo and lawn mower once a year as well. This is my first post. ( I came across this site when I stumbled upon the fog light rewire mod). I'm not a bot
Thank you and welcome! I take it that by BC you're in Canada?
Thank you! I did look at that thread. It made me chuckle a little bit and it definitely confirmed what I DIDN'T wanna know... that either one or BOTH cats need to be replaced. Great. I assume the previous owner(s) didn't take care of this car cuz MAN, there's a lotta work to do. Is it even worth it?!
I drive 2000 model Nissan Maxima. When I start the engine the RPM gauge doesn’t stay high. It drops quickly too low and usually the engine will shut off. So in order to keep the engine on, I push the accelerator pedal a couple of seconds right after the engine starts. And if the engine is cold, I keep pressing the accelerator pedal longer trying to simulate the normal revs of a cold engine, and I gradually release my press to allow the revs to drop off as they would normally do.
However when I take my food off the pedal, the gauge stays between 500 to 800 RMP, and the car starts shaking a little bit. And more surprisingly to me, when I turn on the AC, the revs drop lower instead of going up! And when I put the car in gear they drop even further. And the car will shake even more.
I noticed something unusual at the throttle body and have taken these pictures. Both that hose and the barb suck air when the engine is on.
I drive 2000 model Nissan Maxima. When I start the engine the RPM gauge doesn’t stay high. It drops quickly too low and usually the engine will shut off. So in order to keep the engine on, I push the accelerator pedal a couple of seconds right after the engine starts. And if the engine is cold, I keep pressing the accelerator pedal longer trying to simulate the normal revs of a cold engine, and I gradually release my press to allow the revs to drop off as they would normally do.
However when I take my food off the pedal, the gauge stays between 500 to 800 RMP, and the car starts shaking a little bit. And more surprisingly to me, when I turn on the AC, the revs drop lower instead of going up! And when I put the car in gear they drop even further. And the car will shake even more.
I noticed something unusual at the throttle body and have taken these pictures. Both that hose and the barb suck air when the engine is on.
Do you know what’s missing here?
Welcome to the MAXIMA threads!
You say that you drive a year 2000 Maxima, however, the Engine does NOT look anything like my USA 2000 Maxima GLE???? My 2000 Maxima does NOT have those hoses nor that Vacuum Unit on the Throttle body??
In any case, my Maxima had the same identical issue. However, my particular problem came gradually as it started well when COLD and then, at the STOP Light or STOP sign after completely reaching normal Engine operating temperature the Engine RPMs got very low and it died if you were not ready by compensating with the throttle. I cleaned the Throttle body and also cleaning the IDLE AIR VALVE assembly and that help for a little while but, it continued doing it.
I believe that these Engines that come with the Hitachi brand Mass Air Sensor (MAS) gets faulty and even though you have cleaned and cleaned the IDLE AIR VALVE assembly it will die because MAS is just not doing it's job and reporting how much Air is flowing to the Engine to the Engine Control Module (ECM). What "is" the MAS? It is a heater that get hot at a certain temperature and as the Engine starts and sucks Air through the intake air tube, it cools this sensor and then the ECM does a comparison and determines how much and it adjusts the parameters of the Engine. When this Sensor goes bad then, the ECM can no longer do a correct comparison and the worse is your issue, I believe. This is not to be confused with Engine running too rich as this is caused by the O2 Sensor.
I would clean the throttle body and clean "Carefully" the IDLE AIR CONTROL assembly and if that does NOT do it then, I would change out perhaps both the "ELECTRO MECHANICAL portion of the IDLE AIR CONTROL and the MAS.
Best of luck!
EDIT: THE PICTURES BELOW SHOWS MY 2000 MAXIMA GLE FOR USA, A CALIFORNIA CAR.
Last edited by guapoman2000; 06-20-2020 at 12:15 AM.
You say that you drive a year 2000 Maxima, however, the Engine does NOT look anything like my USA 2000 Maxima GLE???? My 2000 Maxima does NOT have those hoses nor that Vacuum Unit on the Throttle body??
You’re right. I am not from the States. If what I heard is correct, Maxima here is Infiniti in the US and vice versa. And I have the same post in the Infiniti forum, but that forum looks completely dead.
Originally Posted by guapoman2000
I cleaned the Throttle body and also cleaning the IDLE AIR VALVE assembly and that help for a little while but, it continued doing it.
I still need to find out the missing part or parts. But I’m curious; do you use seafoam for cleaning?
You’re right. I am not from the States. If what I heard is correct, Maxima here is Infiniti in the US and vice versa. And I have the same post in the Infiniti forum, but that forum looks completely dead.
I still need to find out the missing part or parts. But I’m curious; do you use seafoam for cleaning?
We have Infiniti in the USA as well, however, I have not checked the Engine compartment on a 2000 Infiniti that is comparable to the 2000 Maxima and see if your Engine is indeed the same as that of either an Infiniti of USA?
No, I used a Throttle Body cleaner that would not damage the MAS.
If you take off the IDLE CONTROL VALVE - Electronic-mechanical assembly MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TURN IT and just Carefully Clean it!
I'm back again with my 01 GXE hoping for some direction.
I had the spark plugs, ignition coils and ALL 4 O2 sensors replaced on 6/19/20 along with the motor mounts except the transmission mount (something I IMMEDIATELY regretted). As I drove the car home, she drove WORSE or sluggishly than she did BEFORE I dropped it off. I felt like I had to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor for it to get up to speed when I didn't have to the day before. Does the computer need to be reset or relearn the idling or something? Prior to this I had codes P0420, P0430 and P1320 but they were gone, I assume because the battery was disconnected.
I also heard what sounded like rattling or something coming from my muffler or somewhere in that area when I drove at a low speed (under 30 MPH) but nothing came out, no smoke or whatever was making it rattle. After safely making it home, I gently kicked it but I didn't hear anything rattling around anymore. I have not moved the car since Friday night as I was afraid to but I have to for work on Monday.
I also cannot get the radio to work. It turns on, but I have no sound at all. I think the radio is stock, however I DON'T think it's Bose.
I REALLY WANNA love this car like y'all seem to love yours but it seems as if I got one that the previous owner neglected, and I wasn't trying to have another project car, especially one with exhaust problems.
I have a 2000 Maxima. My car was running when the wires from the ignition coil connector (I think) touched and sparked. My car died and hasn't started back since. It turns over but it's not firing. The fuel pump is priming when I turn the key and all my electrical components (dash lights, radio, ect) are coming on. Anyone have any idea what I could do? Someone said i might have fried my computer? Thanks
I have a 2000 Maxima. My car was running when the wires from the ignition coil connector (I think) touched and sparked. My car died and hasn't started back since. It turns over but it's not firing. The fuel pump is priming when I turn the key and all my electrical components (dash lights, radio, ect) are coming on. Anyone have any idea what I could do? Someone said i might have fried my computer? Thanks
Under the hood is a fuse block by the battery. Check the 15 amp fuse ENG CONT1.
Under the hood is a fuse block by the battery. Check the 15 amp fuse ENG CONT1.
Hi Dennis, you look knowledgable. Would it be possible for you to help me with my issue above titled "What is missing at the throttle body"?
I've already found out that one short hose goes from the barb on the throttle body to the barb on what I was told is the AC idle up actuator or idle speed control (I don't know which one is the correct name).
Hey I'm an owner of 2000 max (5-Speed) had the P0505 Code but solved it by repairing the ECM and replacing the IACV, but now I have to the idle relearn to do and I'm not sure which is the right one because I've seen a couple different ones on YouTube. Any suggestions?
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
I’m new here and I have a question please someone help me thank you in advance. My question is if my 5th gen. Maxima doesn’t have an egr valve then what does it have? And how do I find it.
I’m new here and I have a question please someone help me thank you in advance. My question is if my 5th gen. Maxima doesn’t have an egr valve then what does it have? And how do I find it.
Our cars don't have an EGR valve. So, don't worry about it.
They have an EGR temperature sensor, but the sensor is only used for diagnostics.
If you really want to know more, then download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from here: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
I have a 02 maxima that came with a non working window switch driver side. I know it works because i could jump the motor and and make it go up and down using the harness. Well I just received a new/used switch (my old one had a green bottom and so does this one) but then when I went to plug it in I noticed the harness that came with it had one extra wire.
So my old harness had 14 wires and this new one has 15 also some of the wires are in different locations opposed to my harness.
I remember reading somewhere there was a difference in colors between the years but I can't seem to find that thread.
Can anyone verify if the 02 maxipads have 14 or 15 wires in their harness
I have a 02 maxima that came with a non working window switch driver side. I know it works because i could jump the motor and and make it go up and down using the harness. Well I just received a new/used switch (my old one had a green bottom and so does this one) but then when I went to plug it in I noticed the harness that came with it had one extra wire.
So my old harness had 14 wires and this new one has 15 also some of the wires are in different locations opposed to my harness.
I remember reading somewhere there was a difference in colors between the years but I can't seem to find that thread.
Can anyone verify if the 02 maxipads have 14 or 15 wires in their harness
I want to splice but idk how to go about it
There are 15 wires in the large connector of a 2002 Maxima, 14 wires in a 2003 Maxima -
2002 Maxima Master Power Window Switch
1 - yellow with green stripe
2 - blue
3 - green
4 - white with red stripe (12 volts)
5 - black (ground)
6 - orange with black stripe
7 - green with red stripe
8 - blue
9 - green with white stripe
10 - green
11 - white with blue stripe
12 - red
13 - yellow
14 - green with yellow stripe
15 - green with white stripe
16 - (empty)
Code:
╔═══╦═══╗
thin blue ║ 8 ║ 1 ║ yellow/green stripe
╠═══╬═══╣
green/white stripe ║ 9 ║ 2 ║ thick blue
╠═══╬═══╣
green ║ 10║ 3 ║ green
╠═══╬═══╣
white with blue stripe ║ 11║ 4 ║ white/red stripe (12 volts)
╠═══╬═══╣
red ║ 12║ L ║
╠═══╣ O ║
yellow ║ 13║ K ║
╠═══╬═══╣
green with yellow stripe ║ 14║ 5 ║ black (ground)
╠═══╬═══╣
green/white stripe ║ 15║ 6 ║ orange/black stripe
╠═══╬═══╣
(empty) ║ 16║ 7 ║ green/red stripe
╚═══╩═══╝
2002 wiring
- - - - - -
2003 Maxima Master Power Window Switch
1 yellow
2 white/black stripe
3 red
4 orange/black stripe
5 green
6 orange/blue stripe
7 green/white stripe
8 thin blue (to window motor)
9 green/white stripe
10 white/blue stripe
11 green (to window motor)
12 (empty)
13 green/yellow stripe
14 thick blue
15 green/red stripe
16 (empty)
Last edited by DennisMik; 10-05-2020 at 10:17 AM.
Reason: add photos
There are 15 wires in the large connector of a 2002 Maxima, 14 wires in a 2003 Maxima -
2002 Maxima Master Power Window Switch
1 - yellow with green stripe
2 - blue
3 - green
4 - white with red stripe (12 volts)
5 - black (ground)
6 - orange with black stripe
7 - green with red stripe
8 - blue
9 - green with white stripe
10 - green
11 - white with blue stripe
12 - red
13 - yellow
14 - green with yellow stripe
15 - green with white stripe
16 - (empty)
Code:
╔═══╦═══╗
thin blue ║ 8 ║ 1 ║ yellow/green stripe
╠═══╬═══╣
green/white stripe ║ 9 ║ 2 ║ thick blue
╠═══╬═══╣
green ║ 10║ 3 ║ green
╠═══╬═══╣
white with blue stripe ║ 11║ 4 ║ white/red stripe (12 volts)
╠═══╬═══╣
red ║ 12║ L ║
╠═══╣ O ║
yellow ║ 13║ K ║
╠═══╬═══╣
green with yellow stripe ║ 14║ 5 ║ black (ground)
╠═══╬═══╣
green/white stripe ║ 15║ 6 ║ orange/black stripe
╠═══╬═══╣
(empty) ║ 16║ 7 ║ green/red stripe
╚═══╩═══╝
2002 wiring
- - - - - -
2003 Maxima Master Power Window Switch
1 yellow
2 white/black stripe
3 red
4 orange/black stripe
5 green
6 orange/blue stripe
7 green/white stripe
8 thin blue (to window motor)
9 green/white stripe
10 white/blue stripe
11 green (to window motor)
12 (empty)
13 green/yellow stripe
14 thick blue
15 green/red stripe
16 (empty)
Ah I see my problem. After double checking the amount of wires I had (14) I pulled the door panel off and checked the harness part #(24125-6y303) And it comes back to a 03 maxima according to nissan. Well that's just dandy no wonder the previous one didn't work.
But can you verify the colors of the bottom of the switch?
I know now the 02s are green but what about the 03? I don't want to waste money getting the wrong one from eBay since majority of them say 00-03 will fit but its apparent they wont. I mean the harness will but the connections internally are different
Any who thanks for the help so far I will save this just in case
So a month ago my 2011 Nissan maxima started giving me trouble i was driving home after work one night and and as soon as I entered the code to enter my apartment complex.... BOOM! it jerked then would shift past 20 mph. So I own this device called a metro smart ride which catches codes and readings it threw a PO746 code telling me it was my pressure solenoid I was like damn how does this happen... So I ordered the complete valve body which was $285 $68 bucks for CVT transmission fluid with $300 in labor just to get me to this point so i proceed to leave car goes in reverse perfectly goes in drive perfectly so I hit the gas after all this and it still wont go over 20mph i hear ringing or clunking noise on my passenger side while driving.. The the mechanic tells me oh we took a gamble you need a transmission.. I'm like what after all this so I'm at a lost because I don't think I need one i believe in my heart its something else my max only has 135k in miles on it.. I take care of my car I need so answers because I think its too soon for that and its to soon to get another car.
Will the headers from 09 and up fit the 5.5 gens specifically the 02? I've read the 5.5 gens bolt up to the 09+ engines but idk if the headers on the 7th gens any different size or etc?
Or am I stuck with using the crappy 00-01 obx headers or any 4th gen one?
At the moment I'm gutted with basically straight pipe after y.
Ok I have a good question nobody seems to have an answer too. So I swapped power heated i30 seats into my 5th gen (manual cloth) recently & can’t seem to get power to the heated seat element under said seat. Anybody have a link to a wiring diagram from an i30? I can’t seem to find anything. & if not, any info on the heating element would definitely help. I have power to the seats (driver and passenger) and all just can’t seem to wire the heated element portion up correctly. Thanks in advance.
I am looking for help with a problem that has me stuck. I just got a 2000 maxima with 134k miles in pretty good condition but one of the problems it came with is the drivers side turn signal is constantly hot even with the key as long as the battery is connected the signal is on front and rear and the green arrow is lit on the dash and nothing changes when lever is moved it doesn’t blink and doesn’t change with headlights on or off but the passenger blinker works properly it doesn’t light up till lever is switched and then it blinks front and rear normally. And I’m thinking the hazards not working is related. When hazard button is pushed it just turns passenger side blinker on constant along with the already on drivers side. And with the headlight assembly disconnected the arrow on the dash is still on and I also removed the turn signal switch on column and it still stays on so how would it b catching a constant hot even with the ignition off without the key even in??? And since passenger side turn signal works properly does that mean flasher relay is working or is there separate flasher relay for each side?? I’m looking for any help cuz I’m missing something
04-03-2020, 11:15 AM
Great. I assume the previous owner(s) didn't take care of this car cuz MAN, there's a lotta work to do. Is it even worth it?!
