5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
05-02-2007, 10:46 AM
#1921
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 3
Resolved
Originally Posted by alenhard
I just went to Autozone to have them pull CEL codes and when the technician hooked the scanner up to my car, the following problems occurred:
- The electronic clock went out and will not come back on.
- No codes could be read by the scanner (I have since tried with three other scanners and all of them acted like they weren't even connected to the car).
- The trip odometer will not hold the mileage when I turn off the car.
These problems did not exist before taking it to Autozone! What could have happened and how do I fix it?? A blown fuse? A short somewhere?
The radio, AC, and sunroof all still work fine, and the regular odometer appears to be accurately tracking mileage. The check engine light is still on. Help!
- The electronic clock went out and will not come back on.
- No codes could be read by the scanner (I have since tried with three other scanners and all of them acted like they weren't even connected to the car).
- The trip odometer will not hold the mileage when I turn off the car.
These problems did not exist before taking it to Autozone! What could have happened and how do I fix it?? A blown fuse? A short somewhere?
The radio, AC, and sunroof all still work fine, and the regular odometer appears to be accurately tracking mileage. The check engine light is still on. Help!
05-02-2007, 02:14 PM
#1922
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 21
idle issue..
ok...just joined...question bout my 2k2 se, i have an issue where the motor idles around 500 rpm instead of normal 900, not a huge deal but it causes the car to have a minor "shake" to it when im at a red light or just sitting. any ideas on what may cause this and what a possible fix would be? thanks for your help...glad to have found this site!
05-02-2007, 02:28 PM
#1923
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by andyslone
ok...just joined...question bout my 2k2 se, i have an issue where the motor idles around 500 rpm instead of normal 900, not a huge deal but it causes the car to have a minor "shake" to it when im at a red light or just sitting. any ideas on what may cause this and what a possible fix would be? thanks for your help...glad to have found this site!
BEWARE: Cleaning your throttle body is a very touchy issue, because it is electronically controlled. The method I used was to just spray the TB cleaner around the crevices of the butterfly valve WITHOUT touching it. Several people get a code when they clean their throttle bodies because they move the plate around.
After cleaning it, do the ECU reset procedure, throttle relarn procedure, iavl procedure, etc. found in the stickies.
Here's the link: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=103
05-02-2007, 02:59 PM
#1925
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by gooroo
What would cause my 2000 max to idle at 1500 in park and after driving a while it jumps between 1200 and 1600 or so like waaa uggghhh waaaa ugghhh over and over while its in park till I turn it offf?
Check this post: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...postcount=1853
05-02-2007, 03:49 PM
#1927
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by gooroo
I cant even locate it, that pic doesnt look like mine. I have a 2000 model and that must be something else.
Do you know where your throttle body is? If not, look at the big black plastic thing on top of your engine (called the intake manifold) and look to the right of it sort of near the firewall. You will see a silver round piece with a wire leading to it from the firewall. This is your throttle body. Your IACV will be just behind that and will look like the one in the picture.
05-02-2007, 04:01 PM
#1928
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 32
I post pics here http://72.24.42.3:8080/junk/2000max/ maybe im blind and can be shown the way.
05-02-2007, 04:29 PM
#1929
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
eh, some people say it does, some say it doesn't. It's not really the best thing to switch from dino to synthetic at a high mileage because it's less viscous, but if you think he used synthetic before, then go ahead and do it.
05-02-2007, 04:33 PM
#1930
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by gooroo
I post pics here http://72.24.42.3:8080/junk/2000max/ maybe im blind and can be shown the way.
It's underneath where that brown plug is. It'll have another electrical connector plugging into it and a few hoses leading to it. You'll want to either remove it and clean it (try that first) or replace it.
05-02-2007, 06:27 PM
#1931
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
I Just Noticed A couple of lights are out on my Digital Climate Control buttons, (the Auto, Econ, and Off button) Everything still works but the lights on these buttons are out. Is there a way to replace the lights without changing out the whole unit??
05-02-2007, 06:39 PM
#1932
Originally Posted by SE My 6sp
I Just Noticed A couple of lights are out on my Digital Climate Control buttons, (the Auto, Econ, and Off button) Everything still works but the lights on these buttons are out. Is there a way to replace the lights without changing out the whole unit??
to my knowledge, the only place you can get them is from the Nissan dealer, and most will have to order them for you.
edit: I'm assuming that the cc on the 5.5gen is the same as my cc....
05-02-2007, 08:19 PM
#1933
Originally Posted by irish44j
there is a clear light-transmitting "web frame" inside, and there are 3-4 bulbs total that light it up. You can buy the bulbs from Nissan for a couple bucks each - they are tiny little bulbs with a plastic twist-in base. to access them you have to take the CC out of the car, unscrew the case, unlatch some little tabs, and take it apart. Be careful doing this and pay attention to how everything fits together. The bulbs are on the circuit board.
to my knowledge, the only place you can get them is from the Nissan dealer, and most will have to order them for you.
edit: I'm assuming that the cc on the 5.5gen is the same as my cc....
to my knowledge, the only place you can get them is from the Nissan dealer, and most will have to order them for you.
edit: I'm assuming that the cc on the 5.5gen is the same as my cc....
05-02-2007, 08:48 PM
#1934
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 32
Well I took it all apart and wasnt much to clean at all. Book says that I should use an ohm meter to read pins 1 and 2 and see if its 30 ohms do the same for pins 2 and 3 then 4 and 5 and 5 and 6. It says that at 68 F all will/should read 30 ohms. Well pins 4 and 5 read like 6 ohms, the rest was 22 and it was 71F. I put it all back together in hopes that it would somehow be right, and it wasnt.
It had a constant idle of 1500, and while it was there I thought "hrmm let me unplugg the MAF sensor and see what happens, maybe its that?" and when I did it went to reving up and down up and down like from 1300 to 1500, cut the car off, plugged back up the MAF sensor and cranked it up and it was at 1500 steady again.
I am guessing its the IACV. I had the battery unplugged for a bit and the SES came back on during all this. Guess I will run back to automagiczone and get them to pull a code again to be certain.
Then I guess I will spring for a new IACV. Sure hope thats it.
Meanwhile during all this I replaced all the plugs with NGK iridiums and the old ones looked fine but they were bosche plats. Also the coils all had the gray dots, so Im thinking someone changed those out before too.
Oh one more thing about this.... as I drove it home today acting the way it did, it seemed to shift odd. It would shift out fine, but when I would stop and or slow down, it would kind jump when it downshifted, hard to explain it, but maybe thats due to high idle.
It had a constant idle of 1500, and while it was there I thought "hrmm let me unplugg the MAF sensor and see what happens, maybe its that?" and when I did it went to reving up and down up and down like from 1300 to 1500, cut the car off, plugged back up the MAF sensor and cranked it up and it was at 1500 steady again.
I am guessing its the IACV. I had the battery unplugged for a bit and the SES came back on during all this. Guess I will run back to automagiczone and get them to pull a code again to be certain.
Then I guess I will spring for a new IACV. Sure hope thats it.
Meanwhile during all this I replaced all the plugs with NGK iridiums and the old ones looked fine but they were bosche plats. Also the coils all had the gray dots, so Im thinking someone changed those out before too.
Oh one more thing about this.... as I drove it home today acting the way it did, it seemed to shift odd. It would shift out fine, but when I would stop and or slow down, it would kind jump when it downshifted, hard to explain it, but maybe thats due to high idle.
05-02-2007, 09:00 PM
#1935
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by gooroo
Well I took it all apart and wasnt much to clean at all. Book says that I should use an ohm meter to read pins 1 and 2 and see if its 30 ohms do the same for pins 2 and 3 then 4 and 5 and 5 and 6. It says that at 68 F all will/should read 30 ohms. Well pins 4 and 5 read like 6 ohms, the rest was 22 and it was 71F. I put it all back together in hopes that it would somehow be right, and it wasnt.
It had a constant idle of 1500, and while it was there I thought "hrmm let me unplugg the MAF sensor and see what happens, maybe its that?" and when I did it went to reving up and down up and down like from 1300 to 1500, cut the car off, plugged back up the MAF sensor and cranked it up and it was at 1500 steady again.
I am guessing its the IACV. I had the battery unplugged for a bit and the SES came back on during all this. Guess I will run back to automagiczone and get them to pull a code again to be certain.
Then I guess I will spring for a new IACV. Sure hope thats it.
Meanwhile during all this I replaced all the plugs with NGK iridiums and the old ones looked fine but they were bosche plats. Also the coils all had the gray dots, so Im thinking someone changed those out before too.
Oh one more thing about this.... as I drove it home today acting the way it did, it seemed to shift odd. It would shift out fine, but when I would stop and or slow down, it would kind jump when it downshifted, hard to explain it, but maybe thats due to high idle.
It had a constant idle of 1500, and while it was there I thought "hrmm let me unplugg the MAF sensor and see what happens, maybe its that?" and when I did it went to reving up and down up and down like from 1300 to 1500, cut the car off, plugged back up the MAF sensor and cranked it up and it was at 1500 steady again.
I am guessing its the IACV. I had the battery unplugged for a bit and the SES came back on during all this. Guess I will run back to automagiczone and get them to pull a code again to be certain.
Then I guess I will spring for a new IACV. Sure hope thats it.
Meanwhile during all this I replaced all the plugs with NGK iridiums and the old ones looked fine but they were bosche plats. Also the coils all had the gray dots, so Im thinking someone changed those out before too.
Oh one more thing about this.... as I drove it home today acting the way it did, it seemed to shift odd. It would shift out fine, but when I would stop and or slow down, it would kind jump when it downshifted, hard to explain it, but maybe thats due to high idle.
05-03-2007, 06:51 AM
#1936
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23
Steering wheel controls
I just purchased a new pioneer head unit from crutchfield and they told me the steering wheel adapter to keep the controls wouldn't work with my car. Has anyone used an adapter to keep the steering wheel controls on aftermarked headunit? Thanks
J
J
05-03-2007, 07:02 AM
#1937
Originally Posted by longjas
I just purchased a new pioneer head unit from crutchfield and they told me the steering wheel adapter to keep the controls wouldn't work with my car. Has anyone used an adapter to keep the steering wheel controls on aftermarked headunit? Thanks
J
J
From: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=450601
05-03-2007, 07:53 AM
#1939
Originally Posted by longjas
I just purchased a new pioneer head unit from crutchfield and they told me the steering wheel adapter to keep the controls wouldn't work with my car. Has anyone used an adapter to keep the steering wheel controls on aftermarked headunit? Thanks
J
J
it is better than the swi-x because it is directly connected to the H/U.
05-03-2007, 11:50 AM
#1941
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by gooroo
Ahh just found a good pic on where the IAVC is located and it would have saved me a lot of time.
05-03-2007, 12:04 PM
#1942
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
Yes that's perfect! Puppetmaster, is there any way you can add that pic to the stickies?
Done: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....stpost&t=36867
05-03-2007, 12:18 PM
#1943
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 32
Ok now for a silly question. When I cleaned it since I was new at that part, I took the entire throttle body off and went to a work bench then thought "hey did I really need to do that?" Is the black part the only part that fails and is in question or is the valve body it attaches too just as important?
Like for instance if I go to a junk yard that lets you take off your own parts, and I can get to the black peice easier than taking the throttle body aloose to get the entire IACV off cause the bolts are underneath, will that work?
Like for instance if I go to a junk yard that lets you take off your own parts, and I can get to the black peice easier than taking the throttle body aloose to get the entire IACV off cause the bolts are underneath, will that work?
05-03-2007, 07:59 PM
#1945
Originally Posted by jocoo
Question- If I install a new intake and afterwards reset the ECU will it detect if there is too much air or will my check engine light not come on because it just adapts??
05-03-2007, 09:28 PM
#1946
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23
Originally Posted by slickrick
Surprised Crutch didnt recommend it(SWI-PS)...http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...el%20Interface
it is better than the swi-x because it is directly connected to the H/U.
it is better than the swi-x because it is directly connected to the H/U.
05-04-2007, 10:57 AM
#1947
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
It shouldn't normally idle at 900 rpm anyway. Normal warm idle should be around 700-750. I had the same problem for a very long time and found it extremely annoying. I cleaned my throttle body and it went away.
BEWARE: Cleaning your throttle body is a very touchy issue, because it is electronically controlled. The method I used was to just spray the TB cleaner around the crevices of the butterfly valve WITHOUT touching it. Several people get a code when they clean their throttle bodies because they move the plate around.
After cleaning it, do the ECU reset procedure, throttle relarn procedure, iavl procedure, etc. found in the stickies.
Here's the link: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=103
BEWARE: Cleaning your throttle body is a very touchy issue, because it is electronically controlled. The method I used was to just spray the TB cleaner around the crevices of the butterfly valve WITHOUT touching it. Several people get a code when they clean their throttle bodies because they move the plate around.
After cleaning it, do the ECU reset procedure, throttle relarn procedure, iavl procedure, etc. found in the stickies.
Here's the link: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=103
Okay...cleaned my TB and it appears to have helped, however i tried to do the ECU reset and i couldn't get it to respond to the procedures. I tried several times with no luck, does the CEL have to be on in order for them to work because mine is not. if not, anything that i may be missing in the procedure?
thanks for your help!
05-04-2007, 07:11 PM
#1948
tried to do the ECU reset and i couldn't get it to respond to the procedures.
Make sure the car is at operating temp. (needle is in the middle, where it always is when driving/warmed up.)
05-05-2007, 12:10 PM
#1949
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by longjas
I just purchased a new pioneer head unit from crutchfield and they told me the steering wheel adapter to keep the controls wouldn't work with my car. Has anyone used an adapter to keep the steering wheel controls on aftermarked headunit? Thanks
J
J
05-05-2007, 12:11 PM
#1950
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 30
I have a '03 SE with the digital thermostat (titanium edition) and the left side is dark at night. The controls still work, but just not lit up. The display and right side are still fine. I recently installed a new Pioneer HU and this problem happened shortly thereafter. Dealership tells me you have to replace the entire unit and can't just replace the bulb - $380 rip off. Anyone know if you can take this thing apart to get to the bulb? If so, what kind of bulb is it? Thanks.
05-05-2007, 03:37 PM
#1951
Originally Posted by schlmeil
I have a '03 SE with the digital thermostat (titanium edition) and the left side is dark at night. The controls still work, but just not lit up. The display and right side are still fine. I recently installed a new Pioneer HU and this problem happened shortly thereafter. Dealership tells me you have to replace the entire unit and can't just replace the bulb - $380 rip off. Anyone know if you can take this thing apart to get to the bulb? If so, what kind of bulb is it? Thanks.
In this pic you can see the three holes that the bulbs go in (they are taken out in the pic)
Go to the dealer parts counter and ask them to order the bulb. Even better, call DAVEB....he won't BS you.
Other option is to do a custom LED setup for the unit...which takes a bit more work, but several of us have done it..
05-05-2007, 04:09 PM
#1953
Originally Posted by BenjiBoy650
Do the Gen5 Max's have the same 5MT tranny issues as the 4th gens (diff carrier bearings and eventual tranny failure)? Haven't read much around the 5th gen forum yet, sorry 
05-06-2007, 07:16 AM
#1954
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 388
Need help please, i have an '02 gle with 53k miles, now i got my oil changed this past thursday. This morning when i start my car the abs light came on, no there was no hard break of an kind, i turn the car off then i started back up again, the light went away. after sitting for another 3 hrs i started it again and drove , then the service engine soon light came on. i turn the car off wait for about 10seconds then started it up again, the service light is still on, what should i do???
05-06-2007, 07:22 AM
#1955
Originally Posted by BMWHIGH1
Need help please, i have an '02 gle with 53k miles, now i got my oil changed this past thursday. This morning when i start my car the abs light came on, no there was no hard break of an kind, i turn the car off then i started back up again, the light went away. after sitting for another 3 hrs i started it again and drove , then the service engine soon light came on. i turn the car off wait for about 10seconds then started it up again, the service light is still on, what should i do???
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481
05-06-2007, 07:55 AM
#1956
Hey guys -
My roomate directed me to this forum because I'm currently looking at buying used Maximas. My main concern is I'm a college student with a limited amount of money. I want a car that will be reliable and last another 4 to 5 years before I get out of school. I've seen a lot of nice '00 - '02 that are in my price range, but carry between 80 to 100 thousand miles. Do you think that there is plenty of reliable driving life ahead? My roomate and a few others have assured me this is OK, but my Dad is going to need some convincing. I'm really interested in a couple, but need some final clarification that this is OK to buy at a high mileage.
My roomate directed me to this forum because I'm currently looking at buying used Maximas. My main concern is I'm a college student with a limited amount of money. I want a car that will be reliable and last another 4 to 5 years before I get out of school. I've seen a lot of nice '00 - '02 that are in my price range, but carry between 80 to 100 thousand miles. Do you think that there is plenty of reliable driving life ahead? My roomate and a few others have assured me this is OK, but my Dad is going to need some convincing. I'm really interested in a couple, but need some final clarification that this is OK to buy at a high mileage.
05-06-2007, 08:25 AM
#1957
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 388
Originally Posted by irish44j
I dont me to be a pain, but i dont know anything about gettig codes and knowing me with my luck i would probably off set something else, the forum you directed me to was fine, but its like me reading it in a different lanague, i have no idea what it all means.
05-06-2007, 08:30 AM
#1958
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by SHuggsUNC
Hey guys -
My roomate directed me to this forum because I'm currently looking at buying used Maximas. My main concern is I'm a college student with a limited amount of money. I want a car that will be reliable and last another 4 to 5 years before I get out of school. I've seen a lot of nice '00 - '02 that are in my price range, but carry between 80 to 100 thousand miles. Do you think that there is plenty of reliable driving life ahead? My roomate and a few others have assured me this is OK, but my Dad is going to need some convincing. I'm really interested in a couple, but need some final clarification that this is OK to buy at a high mileage.
My roomate directed me to this forum because I'm currently looking at buying used Maximas. My main concern is I'm a college student with a limited amount of money. I want a car that will be reliable and last another 4 to 5 years before I get out of school. I've seen a lot of nice '00 - '02 that are in my price range, but carry between 80 to 100 thousand miles. Do you think that there is plenty of reliable driving life ahead? My roomate and a few others have assured me this is OK, but my Dad is going to need some convincing. I'm really interested in a couple, but need some final clarification that this is OK to buy at a high mileage.
Now every car is different, so I'm not promising rock solid reliability like my mom's car had, but the 5.0 gen generally has a better track record than the 5.5 gen does.
05-06-2007, 08:31 AM
#1959
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by BMWHIGH1
I dont me to be a pain, but i dont know anything about gettig codes and knowing me with my luck i would probably off set something else, the forum you directed me to was fine, but its like me reading it in a different lanague, i have no idea what it all means.