ICEMAN76

iTrader: (2)

Got the code pulled at local Advance Auto. They said it was a P0113 IAT sensor. Now is that the MAF sensor or is it something else??

nismowolfe

iTrader: (11)

I have a 2002 maxima gxe Im trying to program a remote using the directions. I have inserted the key in and out of the ignition 6 times and the flashers do not blink for me. I have tried this several times has anyone else had this trouble. Any help would be appreciated thanks

merlin2375

iTrader: (3)

I read the FSM about the "garage lift points" but I just wanted to make sure:

1) Front, on the x-member, on the little "ball" that stick out if? This "ball" is very close to the front of the x-member

2) Back, on the rear axle in the center. Jack until the car is off the ground.

3) For jackstands, I usually support the car on the frame, not on the scissor jack points because I don't have the adapter. Is this what you guys do.

I used these before, but I want to be sure. Seemed like a newbie question.

00SEMAX19

iTrader: (4)

Yes that will be good, I usually just use the cissor jack location or under the front control arms but either way works fine

atlridin

? My 00 3.0 GLE is soft when I turn. I have an RSB, FSB and they have helped. I just put on a SAR and now want to do something about the cornering. It is an auto, so I will not be on the track. But do like to take corners without rolling like a boat on the sea. Can I replace the struts and keep the springs? I was thinking KYB. would that help? My concern with new springs is that most slam the car to low and I would not have enough room with my new wheels and tires. I purchased 2005 maxima 18" rims and the gap is about an inch. What do you all think?

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

My advice would to go with a moderate drop such as Eibachs which many have found acceptable performers in the corners. Or if you want an even milder drop, go with H&R's.

As for struts, I'd go with the Illuminas

Dirtylicious

Passenger side HID went out while I was driving. Got home took a look shut off the lights and turned them back on again. HID came on for like 5-10 seconds, then went out.

all wires and connections seem to be ok, but it was night so I couldn't see much even with a flashlight.

anyone ever experience this, or have any clue as to what might be causing it?

edit. They are the stock headlights. (replaced after being stolen, TWICE)
Thanks
-Dirty

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

I believe this is the Intake Air Temperature sensor which is built into the MAF. So replacing the MAF would be necessary. If I'm wrong, someone correct me

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

what tires are you using, by the way? Tire sidewall stiffness can have a HUGE effect on handling and cornering.

ICEMAN76

iTrader: (2)

Thanx. I'll go price it and hopefully get it fixed. That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure.

Iceman420

Hey Guys,

I've done some reading around about this and wasn't able to come up with a definative answer.

I'm pretty sure I'm getting poor gas mileage. I just did the calculation and I'm getting 14 L / 100km which translates to about 16.2 MPG. This seems really low to me as people with 5.5 gens seem to get around 21 MPG.

I recently (about 2 monthes ago) installed a brand new K&N air filter. Other than suspension mods the car is stock. Now, I do drive fairly fast and I am on the gas a fair bit (the car is just fun to drive now that the suspension is fixed).

So, my questions are: Does this sound low to you? and if so, What should I be checking?

Edit: I was just thinking that I do have the heated steering wheel and heated seats on as well. Higher amp draw = more gas consumption? Makes sense to me, but I'm really not sure.

bigjoe87865

iTrader: (1)

this morning... my SES light came on.. and started blinking to in a random pattern


pulled over... did the diagnostic thing ... counted the blinks as well as i could... and im pretty positive its P1147 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Maximum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 1)



I cleared the code... and im back home.... is this that dreaded 600$ o2 sensor stuff that the 5th gen has problems with?...

btw... mine is a 5.5 gen 2002 6sp 121k miles




btw... the link is talking about a differnt code....p0140 so reading that confused me...

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

welp i just got raped by the car shop

normally i would NEVER take my car to a shop but i recently moved to an apt downtown so I dont have access to a garage.
Anyway i was getting some pretty severe grinding/scratching sound from the front of the car ... this started about 3 months ago and has slowly gotten worse

sounded like brakes that were really bad ... i changed those about 3 weeks ago and it didnt get any better
since then i've just been waiting to put it in the shop ... they said they'd inspect it for free and tell me what was wrong with it.

at first they said lower ball joint/bushing or whatever ...
that was going to cost 350 plus tax
so i said ok .. knowing that theres no way i could have done work that severe on the street downtown

so they replace the right side and proceed to the left side (where i thought the noise was coming from anyway)
the hub/bearing was seized to the axel. new axel from nissan was almost 600, but they knew a guy who would rebuild it for 180
so they do that, order new hub and bearings and all said and done its going to be about 850

sucks for me.

i told him i could get the bearings/hubs cheaper than the prices he was talking about, so he said he'd discount some labor hours so that he could use the parts they have already ordered and keep it under warranty through the shop

sucks man.....

my *** is sore from all the rapings.

Reket

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking about going the Remote mount turbo path in a year or 2 and was wondering if I still need headers because my friend said that you can just do a down pipe and will not need to buy cattman headers which is what I planned to do.

DasYears

you dont NEED headers, but you would see a fairly large gain from the stock headers compared to cattman after you go turbo. they would also help with spool time and the gained area under the curve would be huge

ptviperz

Just keep going as fast as you can until they blink, make sure you remove the key all the way each time.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

hate to say this, but rubbing/scraping noises aren't caused by wheel bearings (they make a moaning noise when bad). Most likely your dust shield was just rubbing the back of the rotor....a VERY common problem with 5th gens.

sorry.....

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

more likely you have
- bad 02 sensor, reading wrong so you're running rich
- MAF going bad....running rich
- coil or plug(s) bad.....

electrical accessories won't generally affect mileage much if at all....

DasYears

+1...just remedied this problem a few days ago myself. cheap fix

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

I know on the 5th gens the air intake temperature sensor is in front of the maf what year is your car?

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

Didnt wanna start a new thread so got a quick question does anyone know the part number for the air filter for the injen intake on a 01

hehehh

Hey man,
I had some issues with my O2 sensor recently and it gave me all kind of crap. I reset the ligth several times but it kept coming back I replaced it - $116 shipped from dave b...

hehehh

Or, your rotors might be warped and need to be turned. I had a sound from the right side that drove me crazy about a year ago, replaced the brake pads and it did not help, and then brought the rotors to a shop to turn them ($12 per rotor at NAPA) and have not heard a sound for a year now.
I know this probably does not make you feel better, but thought I 'd share...

hehehh

+1 My car cam with no remotes, and when I re-programmed the two I bought, at first it seemed like it is not going to work. It DID work, but it took a couple of attempts.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

well yeah it sucks for sure, but honestly i was between a rock and hardplace ...

lesson learned....

i'm so used to working on my rx-7 in a garage ... i hate that i no longer have a garage

ICEMAN76

iTrader: (2)

I have a 03 SE 6SP Max. I thought that it was the MAF, just wasn't sure. Autozone wants $200 for it while the stealership wants over $400 for it.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

you quoted the original post with the guidelines to this thread but seem to have failed to actually read it.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Just curious, is there some sort of cold start/engine rev limiter? A couple of times, I have been in a situation where I need to hit the gas pretty hard when the engine is still cold and it will crap out at around 4500 rpm, sort of like my Accord would do when I ran into the speed limiter at 115 mph-feels like a fuel cutoff or something. Once the engine is at the proper operating temperture, it runs perfectly.

Not that I have a problem with such a limiter if the engine is cold but it definitely means planning ahead when merging or pulling out into traffic. Much like the horrible traction control on my 626...damn thing would pretty much shut the engine down when encountering wheel spin when pulling out into traffic. Thought my car died the first time it happened.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Take the MAF out and inspect the IAT for any physical damage. If it is, 888-254-6060 is the number, Dave Burnette is the man.

Nope, no limiter @ 4500, cold or warm. Let the damn thing warm up before getting on it.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Must have put it in a lean condition then. I try to make sure the car is fully warmed up but when it is in the 30s, it takes several miles before it reaches normal operating temperatures. Sometimes when you have to get out into traffic, you have to get out into traffic. From now on, if the engine isn't fully warmed up, I will just manually short shift it at 3500 rpm or so.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Not a lean condition either.

Mine is opposite, it wont do squat until after 4000 RPM when cold.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

What kind of ft strut bar do you have?
Do you need to tune your ECU?
Any luck on a turbo or supercharger?

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

otto...they all do the same thing (which isnt much)
it depends. tune it to do what?
some people are working on it. a 6th gen is turboed

now please read the stickies and FAQs. lots of valuable info in there that will answer common questions

atlridin

I bought my buddies 05 SE rims. They are 245x45x18s. They looke great, but do roll more than my old wheels (they are heavier for sure.) What do you think about replacing the Goodyears with Yo's or Toyo's 245x40x18s? Stiffer wall for sure. Another ?, do you know if Frankencar is still a company. I emailed them and called about a catback.
Thanks

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Good idea for sure.

They are no longer a company.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

they are still a company...they just dont make maxima stuff anymore

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

On this site, they should not be referred to as a company. on making parts for other cars Traitors!

atlridin

thanks soonerfan! Good win tonight. Will help my GA Bulldogs.

? GReddy vs Brian Catz. The Greddy price and detail is @ http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...4&cat=0&page=1

?Exhaust or spirngs/struts next $$$ will only allow one of these for Christmas.
2k Maxima GLE Auto (I know it's lame but I wrecked my Accord last year and this is what I have for now). Do love Maxima though and the heated seats

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

springs/struts

MaxBoost925

iTrader: (33)

Do what's in your best interest. Remember modding is a luxury, not a necessity.