lol..are they crap?

 

Price seems ok to me.

I would go to Advanced autoparts and get some nkg iridiums and put off in there, change the belts if needed, air filter, oil change&filter, check brake pads and replace if needed, maybe even change out the tranny fluid too.

I think I covered most of it.

 

oh wait i just realized this was the thread & you have another thread going on with brakes, etc.

 

Lol... dont be hating

 

they ordered 8 bulbs for $5 ea. unfortunately the were the wrong ones. I went back to the dealer and told them and got a refund. When I told them it was the wrong bulbs they looked at me funny esp. when i gave them the right part #. They printed out a diagram of the setup and asked me if I was sure it was that bulb. Mayb I should jus work for them. lol The proper bulbs are $6 ea. but i only need 3 of them. Where did you get your bulbs from? mayb I can use it for future reference

 

Are the spark plugs hard to change on this car or are they fairly easy to get to? I had planned on doing those other things...

What about the timing chain, should that be done?

 

what year car do you have?
the 3.0 00-01 is pretty easy
the 3.5 02-03 is a little more difficult (due to having to remove intake manifold)

you dont need to change the timing chain. nissan uses a chain so it doesnt need to be replaced like a belt.

 

I'm picking it up to night, it's an 02 SE. Any idea where I can find some stuff on how to replace the plugs? I worked on my cars as a kid, but they were 80's models and easy... These new cars are a bit daunting and I always just take the wifes in for maintenance...

 

here you go
http://www.greghome.com/Greg%27s%20G...eplacement.htm

if you were doing this next summer, i could help you
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=517080

 

Thanks, looks like fun.

 

Ok, i recived 3 of my O2 sensors from sparkplugs.com and 2 of then (p/n 24573, 24634) had connectors that were to small, . Are these the right ones?(by NTK) the 3rd fit just fine. 4th one is in the mail. i have a 2k1 ae se cali spec..

 

i spent about 15-20 min looking for pics using hte free search, i've seen 20mm and they look like they stick out to far for me (they sit flush, i'm looking for slightly tucked), and when i need new stuts i'm going eibach/ilums so i don't want to rub.

so i'm looking for pics of stock suspension, stock wheels and tire size for a 5.5gen (SE prefurable)

thanks

would 5mm front spacers help to look with the rear 15's?

 

Ok, here is the situation. I recently purchased an '00 maxima for a very good deal, has 200,000 KM no check engine light, clean inside and out, beautiful Glacier Pearl paint job...

Symptoms of the unknown problem are:
1) 8 KM / L (roughly 19 MPG)
2) 0-60MPH in 9 Secs. (Way below the average 7.5 secs. that I see others get)
3) Between 2500 and 3500 RPM I feel a drag when flooring it. (Like something is holding the car back)

I recently got a highmileage oil change. Did a 4 step emissions cleaning (which includes seafoaming), did not help at all.

Is this a MAF issue?? I've been reading that airflow and dirty sensors are the culprit of most gas mileage and acceleration problems, but others with the same problem did not notice a change. I took a look at my MAF and it looked clean to me.

What else could I do to diagnose the problem?
I would really appreciate any suggestions or advice.

Thanks!!!!!!!

 

Seems like you solved your own problem. It is a MAF issue if you're losing power like that in a 3.0L.

 

NTK o2 sensors should be correct. That's what I have as one of my primaries.

NTK = NGK in a different box so it's all good.

 

pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/695690/8
thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=15mm+spacers

 

Anyone else with some reasons as to why I'm experiencing this? How could I make sure that it is a MAF problem? Will changing the MAF solve my gas mileage prob as well?

 

More questions from a newbie Maxima owner...

Just got my '02 SE last night... One of the rear tail lights (passenger side) has a broken seal with moisture in it. Do I simply replace the whole light? Also, the brake lights on my spoiler do not work? Is that an easy fix or ? ? ?

It seems to run well, no check engine light and no other issue except that I'm not used to driving a car and I'm feeling afraid of it...

How do I know if I need new brakes or rotors? I THINK I'm having some vibrations when I step on the brake, but I'm not sure as I'm really paranoid since I just bought it. My uncle once told me to replace the brakes when I heard them squeal/squeak; none of that coming from this car....

It has 116k miles on it...

Oh, one more question, how does this trip mileage work, or does it? I haven't yet looked in the manual but I reset both Trips odometers when I got it and checked them when getting to work this morning. Showed 25.3 mpg with about 80% highway, 20% city, does that seem right; or is that mileage very generous?

Edit: I'm not a new driver... I'm 28, but have driven only trucks and SUVs until now...

 

Congrats on the new car and that is pretty good mileage...just calculate a tanks worth and see how much you get to back up the computer.

 

i see...so you have 20mm and they still look tucked...hmmm...i saw 20mm on another car and they look like thet are sticking out a little.

different angles i guess

 

I figured I would put this in this thread instead of starting a new one. I am wondering about the Hawk HPS pads I installed today. Mainly what I am wondering is the bedding procedure a one time deal or if i didn't get it hot enough the first time can I go again and it work properly? I basically followed the instructions on the box about bedding, but now at low speed such as backing out the garage, it makes a grinding noise. Do I need to heat them up again? I just installed these on the front and I re-surfaced the OE rotors before putting them on.

 

the grinding noise is most likely the metal dust shield behind the front rotors scraping against the backside of the rotor. Almost everyone who does brake work accidentally bends it a little. Just bend it away from the rotor a bit and you should be good.

 

Ok I'll check it out but if that was the case wouldn't it grind all the time? The noise im hearing is only when slight pressure is being applied to the brake. Its not a constant noise, just when braking.

 

how do i clear my 3rd brake light?

 

Bump...
Any info on this? Is it common with these pads to sound like they're dragging when braking below 15mph? Did I not bed them correctly and if so can I re-do this procedure? Pretty sure it ain't the shield because I only hear it when braking.

 

Hawk HPS are virtually silent. Even if not bedded correctly they shouldn't sound like they're dragging, they'll just be kind of squeaky.

Of course, it's possible that one of your calipers is actually seizing - did you relubricate the slide pins?

I've used Hawks for years on thsi car and others, and have never had a problem.

 

Yeah I took out the pins and lubricated them with sum crc brake lubricant. Maybe if I have time tomorrow I'll take it all apart and relubricate it all. High speed stops are awesome, its just that the low speed braking sounds terrible.


Took it apart and sanded each pad and one rotor lightly with 60 grit sandpaper and cleaned them up good with brake cleaner. Also re-lubricated the pins. So far it seemed to take care of the grinding noise that occurred at low speeds while braking.

 

Hey,

I'm about to replace one of my oxygen sensors... I took my car to Autozone and grabbed PO138 and 139 codes. I just wanted to make sure which O2 sensor im actually supposed to order and replace. Oxygensensors.com would not correlate the part number for a Bank 1 Rear Sensor, as seen here for my '02 SE.
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf
(226A0-5Y701)

I'm pretty sure I should just order the Bosch OE sensor in the front manifold, before the cat, but I'm not sure. The part # is 13968 and is second from top here: http://www.automedicsupply.com/catal...3.5L#Location1

Can anyone confirm?

 

the best thing to do...call dave b. you get nissan sensors at a good price and he knows exactly what you need so there is no confusion.

 

bump to keep this thread on the first page.....

 

hrmm wouldnt hurt if it was stickied IMO

 

yeah it would. Because n00bs never actually READ the stickies.

We keep it floating free so it's in the middle of all the "hot" threads at all times

 

So I'm looking at a 2000 SE with a Stillen body kit and mesh grill. I'm new to the whole Maxima thing so is there anything I should know before getting it?

Thanks in advance

 

Just wanted to see if anyone can actually answer this!

 

I just replaced one recently, that connector looks wrong, but it is always hard to tell from pictures. I just clicked on the link again to look again, and now it says that page cannot be found. Funny, it worked a minute ago. You have an 02, I have 00, not sure if the connectors are the same or not. Does anyone know?

Anyway, there is a guy on this Forum, his username is DaveB. Search and you will find him. He can get you the right sensor for about $115 or so shipped. Much Cheaper than the $167 my dealer quoted me, plus tax.

And the one in front of the cat is a PAIN IN THE A** to change (at least on my 2000 fed spec it was). The right drive shaft is about 3" away from the sensor, and the wire is clipped down in two places where you cannot get at it. I removed the old one, and once I was sure the new one was screwed in and the harness attached, I simply cut the wire on the old one and yanked it free. Now I know why the dealer charges $150 to install it. They probably remove the drive shaft and several other components to get at it.

 

i answered it above

 

Hi there everybody!

I've been visiting this forum for ~6 months, a few months after I got my 2k Maxima AT SE.
Wish I could find it earlier.
I'll try to make the story as short as possible, trying to be as exact as possible about the facts.
3 months after I got the car (newspaper ad) I went to a Nissan dealer here in Montreal to change the oil.
I asked for a check-up and they did a 101 point inspection.
The car was fine, they said. I was advised to change the battery as it was still the original one.
I told the service guy I had the impression the car was not as powerful as my friend's 2k Maxima GLE which I had the chance to drive a few times. It wasn't accelerating the same way, it was somehow slower. Didn't notice any other issues.
The service guy said there is a problem with the MAF and beside that 'the engine was programmed for an old man'. I have to admit, I know very little about things like this, I took the bait and accepted the MAF replacement.
Of course I had to pay ~800 US for the whole thing.

Since then the gas consumption went up like crazy, being ~25% higher than before changing the MAF and reprogramming the computer.
I'm not a tough driver and there wasn't any change in my driving habits.
I tried to explain the increase in the gas consumption on the cold weather.
Now the weather is much warmer here 20...24C but there is no change in the consumption.

2 weeks ago I started hearing a strange noise somewhere from the engine compartment.
After I was turning off the engine there was a noise, something like a small electrical engine spinning, zooming like 5 times.
At first I could hear it only after turning off the engine, a day or 2 after I could also hear it when driving at low rpm.
Called the dealer, they scheduled me for today.
Ever since I heard that noise I stopped using the car, driving it on short distances when I had no other option.
Yesterday, 5 minutes after I started driving I felt a strange smell, like melted plastic/epoxy or something like that.
I thought the smell was from outside but after driving for about 20 min, the smell was still there.
Checked the engine, didn't seem to come from there.
After that, I couldn't hear anymore the noise I mentioned above.
This morning I took the car to the dealer. On my way there the car ran ok, had no issues driving it. There was still a lil' bit of smell but not so bad as before.
When they came with the estimate I couldn't believe my eyes: 2400$ to repair it.

Here is the list with the parts to be replaced:
1. Front and rear engine mount (3h labour)
3. ECU (2.5 h labour)
4. Rear O2 sensor. (2h labour)

They said the rear engine mount died and shorted the ECU. They said the engine mount is lifting and lowering the engine to prevent vibrations.
The ECU was overheating because of the shorted engine mount and causing that smell.
I asked how come there is no protection for this kind of stuff (short-circuit), they said this was a problem with the Maxima 2k-2k1 ECU and was fixed at the later models.
I asked how come I was able to drive the car just fine and they're telling me the ECU is dead? The explanation I got was only some part of the ECU is dead, the one with the engine mount.
I asked them if they can replace only the engine mount and they said most probably the car will die for good soon.

Please can somebody tell me if something like this is possible?
Did any of you experienced something similar?
What should I do?
I left the car there but they are waiting for my confirmation, to do the work.

Please help me with some advice. Thank you!

 

I have a question, has anyone here replaced the 2000 headlamp assembly? How dificult is it? I just had some body work done on my car and the shop replaced one headlamp assembly but no the other and now it looks like refired crap.

I am thinking of buying one online and replacing it myself.

Also, I know alot of you have replaced the factory headlamps, does anyone have a factory one that is close to new condition and will sell it to me?

 

it is extremely easy. Undo two bolts on the top in the engine bay, unplug harness from bulbs, pull light out. Install is reverse of removal. Make sure to line up the tab/stud on the outside of the light that goes into the fender.

 

Maybe every car is different, but on mine, you really have to wiggle the thing like mad to get it out. After the fender and bottom tabs snap free, it still takes finagling. Putting it in is much easier. Hopefully yours will be easier.