5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Nov 23, 2007 | 01:00 AM
  #3881  
top 3 members helping out the newbies

Total Posts: 3,880

irish44j 359
soonerfan 267
NmexMAX 220
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Nov 23, 2007 | 07:08 AM
  #3882  
Quote: top 3 members helping out the newbies

Total Posts: 3,880

irish44j 359
soonerfan 267
NmexMAX 220
Reply
Nov 23, 2007 | 04:49 PM
  #3883  
Seat belt light issues.......
Hi,
glad i found the place newbie's post ...

car was freebie from father-in-law so i am asking if it is common annoying
thing for the seat belt light(red color) on the dash to light up AND for the
bell to start DINGING ! at random times when i drive.......?

i always wear seat belt when i drive so i can't say if it does it when driving
and not wearing one......

it's a 92.... if this is repost what words in search got you results......?

-ALF out
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Nov 23, 2007 | 04:55 PM
  #3884  
Got a question that I haven't seen yet. How long until the headlights turn off when on "auto" and you turn off the car? After 60 seconds and even locking the car with the remote, the headlights stayed on.
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Nov 23, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #3885  
Quote: Got a question that I haven't seen yet. How long until the headlights turn off when on "auto" and you turn off the car? After 60 seconds and even locking the car with the remote, the headlights stayed on.
its in the manual you need to download
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Nov 23, 2007 | 07:47 PM
  #3886  
Quote: its in the manual you need to download
404 on the download link.

I'm getting a hard copy from nk2k2 but won't have it until late next week I guess.
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Nov 23, 2007 | 07:51 PM
  #3887  
If I remember correctly I read in my manual when I bought the car that it shuts off after 45 seconds. Mine do anyways...
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Nov 23, 2007 | 09:17 PM
  #3888  
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Lighting
Turn the switch to the AUTO position:
When the ignition key is in the ON position, the
tail light, headlight, instrument light and other
lights turn on automatically, depending on the
brightness of the surroundings. The headlight
will automatically turn off 5 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position
and the driver’s or front passenger’s door is
opened.
The headlight will also automatically turn off 45
seconds after a front door is opened and
closed.
When the light switch is turned to the position,
the headlight low or high beam will turn
off.
Turn the switch to the position:
The front clearance, side marker, tail, license
plate and instrument lights will come on.
Turn the switch to the position:
Headlights will come on and all the other lights
remain on.
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Nov 23, 2007 | 10:13 PM
  #3889  
Quote: top 3 members helping out the newbies

Total Posts: 3,880

irish44j 359
soonerfan 267
NmexMAX 220
Whoe's number 4 and 5?
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Nov 23, 2007 | 11:01 PM
  #3890  
Quote: Whoe's number 4 and 5?
CoolMax 102
Kyle00 80

way down at the bottom -
MaxBoost925 16
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Nov 23, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #3891  
Quote: HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Lighting
Turn the switch to the AUTO position:
When the ignition key is in the ON position, the
tail light, headlight, instrument light and other
lights turn on automatically, depending on the
brightness of the surroundings. The headlight
will automatically turn off 5 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position
and the driver’s or front passenger’s door is
opened.
The headlight will also automatically turn off 45
seconds after a front door is opened and
closed.
When the light switch is turned to the position,
the headlight low or high beam will turn
off.
Turn the switch to the position:
The front clearance, side marker, tail, license
plate and instrument lights will come on.
Turn the switch to the position:
Headlights will come on and all the other lights
remain on.
Gracias, amigo.

I just didn't want to leave the lights in the auto position, go into the store and find out they didn't go out.
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Nov 24, 2007 | 11:50 AM
  #3892  
Sup yall Im a n00b here, Im thinking of gettin out of my Lightning into an 02 Max SE 6spd but Ive been having trouble finding mods. The car already has Stillen exaust and intake but Ill be looking for headers, springs, some form of boost by next summer, and the 20AE lip kit (I hear the original doesnt fit the beefier 02 bumpers and theres an aftermarket that will). Ive been fishing around the site and Google but I cant come up with much. Can anyone recommend some good sites?
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Nov 24, 2007 | 12:35 PM
  #3893  
cattman performance carries a lot to start off, look at all the stickies under 5th generation.
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Nov 24, 2007 | 01:07 PM
  #3894  
Quote: Sup yall Im a n00b here, Im thinking of gettin out of my Lightning into an 02 Max SE 6spd but Ive been having trouble finding mods. The car already has Stillen exaust and intake but Ill be looking for headers, springs, some form of boost by next summer, and the 20AE lip kit (I hear the original doesnt fit the beefier 02 bumpers and theres an aftermarket that will). Ive been fishing around the site and Google but I cant come up with much. Can anyone recommend some good sites?
This place always gets me what I need. http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=17
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Nov 24, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #3895  
Quote: CoolMax 102
Kyle00 80

way down at the bottom -
MaxBoost925 16
i r ftl.
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Nov 25, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #3896  
Im gonna attempt to change my sparkplugs for my 5.5 gen

i found the how tos and everything.... just down to... which sparkplugs?... a search shows 50% recommending NGK iridium and other saying get platinum...

the iridiums seem to be cheaper..... and people are saying... dont get them unless you have performance mods...etc etc etc...

im just confused... its a stock maxima.... and i plan on doing a compression test also.... i dont have an air compressor so i cant do the leak down..


any other tips you guys wanna gimme regarding the procedure...

thank you.
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Nov 25, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #3897  
Quote: Im gonna attempt to change my sparkplugs for my 5.5 gen

i found the how tos and everything.... just down to... which sparkplugs?... a search shows 50% recommending NGK iridium and other saying get platinum...

the iridiums seem to be cheaper..... and people are saying... dont get them unless you have performance mods...etc etc etc...

im just confused... its a stock maxima.... and i plan on doing a compression test also.... i dont have an air compressor so i cant do the leak down..


any other tips you guys wanna gimme regarding the procedure...

thank you.
Reply
Nov 25, 2007 | 10:38 AM
  #3898  
Platinum or iridium would both be fine. Iridium's main advantage is how long they last and maintain the proper gap.
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Nov 25, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #3899  
LOL... again i get 2 somewhat differnt answers...

Sooner says to go with the NGK platinum.... even though they are like 4$ more per plug

and

Scottwax says the iridiums and platinums are both good... but the iridiums last longer and maintain the proper gap.... AND are cheaper.


so soonerfan... why didnt you go with the iridiums?
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Nov 26, 2007 | 06:35 AM
  #3900  
Pt = OEM
Ir = Longer lasting
Cu = cheapest of all, last about 30k.

Ask yourself how often you want to change them, and that will give you your final answer.

I like changing mine every 30k so I get to see what's going on in there, that's the reason I use Copper.

It's not a tough decision, so stop trying to make it so difficult.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #3901  
Quote: LOL... again i get 2 somewhat differnt answers...

Sooner says to go with the NGK platinum.... even though they are like 4$ more per plug

and

Scottwax says the iridiums and platinums are both good... but the iridiums last longer and maintain the proper gap.... AND are cheaper.


so soonerfan... why didnt you go with the iridiums?
soonerfan Posts: 15,159
Scottwax Posts: 166



i used OEM and like NmexMAX said, i dont need them to last longer
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Nov 26, 2007 | 09:32 AM
  #3902  
Quote: Pt = OEM
Ir = Longer lasting
Cu = cheapest of all, last about 30k.

Ask yourself how often you want to change them, and that will give you your final answer.

I like changing mine every 30k so I get to see what's going on in there, that's the reason I use Copper.

It's not a tough decision, so stop trying to make it so difficult.

i dont care about the change intervals at all.... just wanted to know if i was getting a proper spark with all 3 of them...

i think im going to stick with an iridium... they seem cheaper than platinum plugs on sparkplugs.com and just change it at 30k or when ever... so i can take a look at whats going on in there...

and from what i remember.... iridiums dont need to be gapped or anything...
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Nov 26, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #3903  
Quote: i dont care about the change intervals at all.... just wanted to know if i was getting a proper spark with all 3 of them...

i think im going to stick with an iridium... they seem cheaper than platinum plugs on sparkplugs.com and just change it at 30k or when ever... so i can take a look at whats going on in there...

and from what i remember.... iridiums dont need to be gapped or anything...
None of the NGK plugs mentioned (re: Maxima part #) need to be gapped. I never gap my plugs.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #3904  
I looked in the wheels and tires section but didn't come up with anything. There was one car with a this offset but the kid didn't have any pics.

Is anyone running 19" rims witha 20mm offset? If so do you have any pics? I've got pics of them on a 4th gen but obviously there is a difference between our years.

Advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 04:58 PM
  #3905  
Quote: soonerfan Posts: 15,159
Scottwax Posts: 166


Yeah, well between offtopic.com and autopia.org, I have an additional 70,000 internet posts, not counting the 12,000 or so posts on offtopic I lost when they went from a UBB to a VB board.

So there.

The main reason I'd suggest using Iridium in a 5.5 gen is that the intake needs to come off to change the rear plugs. Personally, I don't like doing all that work any more than I absolutely have to simply to replace plugs.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 05:26 PM
  #3906  
Quote:
Is anyone running 19" rims witha 20mm offset?
Diameter is not as important as width when referring to an offset. What's the width of the wheel?
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Nov 26, 2007 | 05:34 PM
  #3907  
19x8
19x9.5

I'm running the 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 right now witha 40mm offset and they sit flush.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 05:40 PM
  #3908  
Then figure them sticking out about 20mm more than what they are now. They will rub.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 08:45 PM
  #3909  
Wow! That muuch??? Well... thanks for the insight.
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Nov 26, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #3910  
Quote: Wow! That muuch??? Well... thanks for the insight.
The lower the offset value, the more it will stick out (by the value difference, i.e. 20mm), evident and semi obvious from the above posts.
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Nov 27, 2007 | 06:23 AM
  #3911  
Quote: The lower the offset value, the more it will stick out (by the value difference, i.e. 20mm), evident and semi obvious from the above posts.
Why does some of the rims I see on the Max's here with an offset say of 35 or so sink in so far and have a need spacers? Or... do these rims have an offset of 45 or so?
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Nov 27, 2007 | 06:35 AM
  #3912  
Quote: Why does some of the rims I see on the Max's here with an offset say of 35 or so sink in so far and have a need spacers? Or... do these rims have an offset of 45 or so?
Repeat question please.
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Nov 27, 2007 | 05:10 PM
  #3913  
has anyone tried or sprayed a 5th grille.....i wanted to go with the charcoal color.....can u post pics of you have done so....
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Nov 27, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #3914  
Quote: has anyone tried or sprayed a 5th grille.....i wanted to go with the charcoal color.....can u post pics of you have done so....
many people have painted their grill

use the products below with your color
1. cleaner
2. color paint
3. clear coat

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Nov 27, 2007 | 05:22 PM
  #3915  
will this go the same way for a 2000???
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Nov 27, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #3916  
Quote: will this go the same way for a 2000???
the painting part is the same...only difference, you cant remove the grill on the 00-01. you would have to tape it off and paint it. many have done that as well. josh (irish44j) has his painted and ive seen it in person. looks as good as mine
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Nov 27, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #3917  
appreciate it man.....
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Nov 28, 2007 | 07:58 AM
  #3918  
Quote: If you showed pics, I could probably help you more.

I've had similar problems where I needed a certain connector combo (male/female) Ended up buying an entire harness off of www.car-part.com for ~75$. I then cut and used what I needed, spliced it in, and it works like a charm now. But, having to buy an entire harness for one connector = . Although I DO have it for future use, just seems excessive having to buy the entire unit.
So i found the connector I needed @ a junkyard on Monday. Got it yesterday and spliced it in. Do I just need to reset the SES light or will it go out on its own? The only reason I'm asking is b/c when I drove down to the ATL last week the light went out on wednesday and came back on sometime on saturday b4 i drove back to NC. Thought that was kinda wierd since I hadn't done n e thing to the car yet. What do you think??
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Nov 28, 2007 | 08:41 AM
  #3919  
Quote: So i found the connector I needed @ a junkyard on Monday. Got it yesterday and spliced it in. Do I just need to reset the SES light or will it go out on its own? The only reason I'm asking is b/c when I drove down to the ATL last week the light went out on wednesday and came back on sometime on saturday b4 i drove back to NC. Thought that was kinda wierd since I hadn't done n e thing to the car yet. What do you think??
The connector issue I was addressing should not have caused your SES light to come on. Get the code read and take it from there.
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Nov 28, 2007 | 11:16 AM
  #3920  
Quote: light went out on wednesday and came back on sometime on saturday b4 i drove back to NC. Thought that was kinda wierd since I hadn't done n e thing to the car yet. What do you think??
FYI, just because the SES light goes off, doesn't mean the problem went away. The code is still stored in the ECU. Get the code pulled and go from there
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