5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#3801
This was on the Chevelle I used to have. Deep knocking sound and then *boom*. I found 4 lobes of the cam, 3 pushrods, forged piston side skirts and the end cap of the rod in the oil pan, holed the block and the rod that let go was twisted 90 degrees. That is what happens when a rod lets go at 6800 rpm.
#3802
It would knock at all rpms and you'd hear it from inside the car. Trust me, rod knock is pretty loud.
#3803
#3805
bought it 1000 miles ago with 89k and the guy i bought it from at a kinda mom and pop dealer said they replaced the previous motor with one that had 39k because it had failed, how many posts before you can start a thread? you think it would be more helpful to start one?
#3806
has anyone heard of the precat causing something like this? ive seen some people have a horrible rattle, but does it hinder performance like whats happening in my car?
example of precat failure: he actually went through haveng the vtc gears replaced ant the y pipe before he found out it was a precat.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=246745
example of precat failure: he actually went through haveng the vtc gears replaced ant the y pipe before he found out it was a precat.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=246745
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-18-2007 at 12:53 PM.
#3807
I don't think that starting a new thread would be super-beneficial at all. What would be beneficial is the "whole" picture, not just tidbits here and there.
I'm not buying the whole this engine has 39K. In fact, I'm not buying much of the story at all (unless he had a receipt certifying the motor replacement and mileage). If the receipt was presented, it might state that it has a 90-day warranty - I would definitely be checking up on the evidence of this replacement.
Considering that you said you've already been playing with your MAF... hasn't it ever occurred to you to return the car and demand your money back? I'd be severely pissed if my car had major problems within its first thousand miles of life. Oh wait... you signed an agreement saying that this car could blow up tomorrow (the day after the sale) and you're stuck with it (in other words, as-is).
These are my guesses (based on the facts presented so far) - keep in mind, they are not fact, just speculation:
1) Your 89K Maxima was sold by its original owner after beating the hell out of it for its 5 years of life. Whether or not your car has a "newer"/replacement motor does not matter. The dealership admits that the original engine was in a failure state.
2) The engine was not replaced. My guess is that he put motor honey in it to quiet things down just long enough to get the sale. Motor honey is very thick and will reduce the amount of noise from metal/metal contact (bearings, gears, lobes, etc.)
3) Your engine probably has moderate to severe internal wear. I'd run motor flush in your engine (follow the directions), and strain your oil through cheesecloth. Also, use a dark bowl (enough to hold over a gallon of oil) and inspect your oil in the sunlight. Did you see metal particles in the cheesecloth and/or suspended in the oil?
3a) Run a powerful magnet in the particles (I'm assuming they are there.. but who knows, they may not...). If you they stick to the magnet like sludge, it's iron/steel. Timing chain... steel sleeves...
3b) If they don't, aluminum - that's the majority of your block and heads.
4) Run a compression test. It will tell you about your valve-train and your seals/rings.
5) The racket is loud enough (very audible in your clips) that I would at least take it to a certified mechanic for a true diagnosis. When you get that diagnosis, I would take it back to the dealer and have a "discussion" on where to go next. He may offer to repair/replace the engine. He may tell you to go pound sand. Either way, doing nothing and getting "no" for an answer leads to the same result.
Check your local laws to see whether or not you have a mandatory warranty (highly doubtful). Lemon laws do not apply: your car was used.
This experience does not have to do with Maximas or Nissans. It has to do with cars purchased on the wholesale market and then beefed up to make a sale. The way that little dealership handles the situation (assuming the engine is in a state of disrepair) will tell you a lot about the dealership and perhaps a costly lesson as well.
Last edited by aksansai; 11-18-2007 at 01:10 PM.
#3808
thanks for the reply and info i really appreciate it, ima take it to the place i bought it and tell them to fix it this really is bull, i got the car with 3 different SIZE tires on it, 200 bucks to fix that (2 new tires) 100 for the MAF that went out a radiator cap that was faulty. its really nickel and diming me and the bad thing is i got the car so i could have reliable transport to work and a week after getting the car still looking for a job it starts this...
oh, and i carfaxed it and nothing too bad, it did have frame damage in the front when the original purchaser (female- not hating, just sometimes we have different driving habits) had an accident (supposedly when they replaced the engine) and there was not a salvage or rebuilt title issued for it. just the accident.
oh, and i carfaxed it and nothing too bad, it did have frame damage in the front when the original purchaser (female- not hating, just sometimes we have different driving habits) had an accident (supposedly when they replaced the engine) and there was not a salvage or rebuilt title issued for it. just the accident.
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-18-2007 at 02:28 PM.
#3809
Let's assume that the catalytic converter is the problem (although most of the time we find on the Org that the cat is not the problem). We know for a fact from experiences shared here that cheap cats do not perform as required for the long run and codes will be frequent visitor to your Maxima. If the catalytic converter has been spoiled (does not function anymore due to oil/gas/chemical saturation), then surely your car would have let you know well in advance that something was going hokey-pokey with your emissions. So... share with us what others codes have been thrown by the ECU along with some descriptions of funny smelling exhaust (sulfur? sweetness? gas?).
Otherwise, try going down this path first and save yourself some money. Unless you think a thousand bucks (or whatever it costs) is worth a few more ponies... finding the real source of the problem seems to be the logical first step.
P0420 discussion (probably the code you have):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=211895
Corrections for the P0420/0430:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373567
Discussion on the "advantage" of a high flow cat:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374789
O2 simulator being the cheapest overall solution if your cat is truly to blame:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=355541
Otherwise, try going down this path first and save yourself some money. Unless you think a thousand bucks (or whatever it costs) is worth a few more ponies... finding the real source of the problem seems to be the logical first step.
P0420 discussion (probably the code you have):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=211895
Corrections for the P0420/0430:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373567
Discussion on the "advantage" of a high flow cat:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374789
O2 simulator being the cheapest overall solution if your cat is truly to blame:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=355541
I really appreciate it! Read through them all, looks like o2 sim is going to be my first move. It is a 0430, but the smell is rotten eggs, and its bad. It seems to come and go, and is mostly noticable when I turn on the heat, and when I'm sitting at a stoplight. Granted this could be a completely different problem, but I'm gonna guess it has to do with it since the code was thrown shortly after the smell started popping its ugly head. Unfortunatly I don't have any history of the codes the car has gotten, I just bought it recently. The only history that seemed relevant is that one of the o2 sensors was replaced to pass emisions. Not sure which one was replaced, haven't had any time to prop the car up and look. Anyways any more advice on this would be great, and thanks so much for the help.
#3810
i got the car with 3 different SIZE tires on it, 200 bucks to fix that (2 new tires) 100 for the MAF that went out a radiator cap that was faulty. its really nickel and diming me and the bad thing is i got the car so i could have reliable transport to work and a week after getting the car still looking for a job it starts this..
oh, and i carfaxed it and nothing too bad, it did have frame damage in the front when the original purchaser (female- not hating, just sometimes we have different driving habits) had an accident (supposedly when they replaced the engine) and there was not a salvage or rebuilt title issued for it. just the accident.
oh, and i carfaxed it and nothing too bad, it did have frame damage in the front when the original purchaser (female- not hating, just sometimes we have different driving habits) had an accident (supposedly when they replaced the engine) and there was not a salvage or rebuilt title issued for it. just the accident.
I hope you get at least a small bit of reprieve on this though. Don't give up on your Max - the car is not what is at fault.
#3811
Granted this could be a completely different problem, but I'm gonna guess it has to do with it since the code was thrown shortly after the smell started popping its ugly head.
O2 simulator would just tell the computer that there is no problem. If you are in an emissions-enforced state, then this would simply hide the problem from the computer, but not the tailpipe. Now, I'm questioning if that's the route you want to go because no one here wants to run rich on premium unleaded - it's a huge waste of money.
Your checklist:
1) Check your primary O2 sensors using an OBD-II scanner to see if things measure up voltage wise and the trims. You can find the necessary specs in the FSM. You can also physically inspect the O2 sensors (by removing them and looking at the tips) and see if you find resident soot or excessive corrosion. If the openings are clogged, that will vastly degrade its ability to adjust the fuel/air mixture ratio, usually causing them to think that the system is running on the lean side, thus enriching the fuel mixture to counter it.
2) Inspect the spark plugs for gap, oil/fuel fouling, and wear. Clean/regap or replace as necessary.
3) I honestly don't know how you can inspect the ignition coils on the VQ. On a distributor system, I'd remove the spark plug and ground it - checking for how good the fire looks. Have these been replaced recently? How many miles are on your coils (if you don't know, assume they are from the factory as original).
4) Run a compression test. Use the FSM (or a Haynes manual) for the specs to ensure you have good and even compression across all six cylinders. Low compression == less fire/combustion, thus allowing more unburnt fuel to go into the exhaust system.
5) Check your EGR valve to ensure it is not stuck closed. The EGR allows your car to send some of the exhaust back as heated intake charge for a second burn cycle. This aids the combustion of byproducts.
6) Is your MAF operating normally? OBD-II scanner to see how many gm/s the ECU sees as a result of the MAF. If it is off, you need to replace it (a key component to the fuel/air mixture ratio).
Unfortunatly I don't have any history of the codes the car has gotten, I just bought it recently.
The only history that seemed relevant is that one of the o2 sensors was replaced to pass emisions. Not sure which one was replaced, haven't had any time to prop the car up and look. Anyways any more advice on this would be great, and thanks so much for the help.
#3814
Be aware - check your contract (the bill of sale and all the documentation with the car). You may not have a leg to stand on it. Sometimes it's not wise to go guns a blazing. If he tells you out of the gate to pound sand, that's when I'd escalate the frustration.
I certainly hope you got one helluva deal. If the dealership is not willing to at least get the car in a presentable condition (a 5 year old car, no less) that's had a history of having its frame stretched... I'd steer clear from it. Lessons learned.
I hope you get at least a small bit of reprieve on this though. Don't give up on your Max - the car is not what is at fault.
I certainly hope you got one helluva deal. If the dealership is not willing to at least get the car in a presentable condition (a 5 year old car, no less) that's had a history of having its frame stretched... I'd steer clear from it. Lessons learned.
I hope you get at least a small bit of reprieve on this though. Don't give up on your Max - the car is not what is at fault.
<<clickables
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-18-2007 at 10:37 PM.
#3815
I'm not sure if anyone remembers, but a couple of pages back, I posted about a wierd sound, and excesive wheel play in the front passenger side. I thought it was the bearing, so I started taking it apart. I took the wheel off, and got a 32mm socket for the axle nut, and as soon as I put it on there, I noticed it was loose! What would cause that to become loose? I tightened it up to specs, and the wheel play was gone right away. I took it for a drive around the crescent, and the noise was gone. Am I in the clear? What would cause the axle nut to come loose?? Maybe someone worked on it, and never tightened it up right?? Any input would be appretiated.
#3816
#3819
ok so i talked with dave b and we came to the conclusion that it could have been the precats failed and sucked the metal back into the engine, apparently this is a common problem with 02 and 03's, and unfortunately "ruins the engine". having heard this im asking if anyone has had this happen and what the symptoms for them were. i got an appointment with my mechanic wednesday but i would like to have a little more knowledge on my behalf before i give it to the mechanic bc after that its in his hands. if anyone can help with or without the experience having happened to them id appreciate it.
also theres a 350z performance shop in houston that said they could rebuild my engine with their current stage 1 kit for around 4400 dollars. they usually do turbo s/c setups but he said he would change the pistons to a higher compression for my n/a engine. My question is: should i put stock internals back in it, get a new engine or have them rebuild it. do you think my block will even be salvageable after metal gets sucked into it? (assuming it was the precats and such). does this look worth it: http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html ?
also theres a 350z performance shop in houston that said they could rebuild my engine with their current stage 1 kit for around 4400 dollars. they usually do turbo s/c setups but he said he would change the pistons to a higher compression for my n/a engine. My question is: should i put stock internals back in it, get a new engine or have them rebuild it. do you think my block will even be salvageable after metal gets sucked into it? (assuming it was the precats and such). does this look worth it: http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html ?
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-19-2007 at 11:01 AM.
#3820
ok guys apparently i got a short in my CEL circuit. pulled the codes on my car and:
*P0650- MIL circuit fault
*P0011- IVT Cirtcuit failure bank 1
*P0430- Catylyst efficiency low - bank 2
*P0138- bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor
which one of these do you think is causing that problem?why are the problems on two different sides of the engine? i know about the tsb with the cam phase sensors going out but is it that or an o2 sensor? or my cat fried and my engine sucked metal up? thanks for your help all i hope in time i can return the favor
*P0650- MIL circuit fault
*P0011- IVT Cirtcuit failure bank 1
*P0430- Catylyst efficiency low - bank 2
*P0138- bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor
which one of these do you think is causing that problem?why are the problems on two different sides of the engine? i know about the tsb with the cam phase sensors going out but is it that or an o2 sensor? or my cat fried and my engine sucked metal up? thanks for your help all i hope in time i can return the favor
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-19-2007 at 12:41 PM.
#3821
#3822
I've had similar problems where I needed a certain connector combo (male/female) Ended up buying an entire harness off of www.car-part.com for ~75$. I then cut and used what I needed, spliced it in, and it works like a charm now. But, having to buy an entire harness for one connector = . Although I DO have it for future use, just seems excessive having to buy the entire unit.
#3823
If you showed pics, I could probably help you more.
I've had similar problems where I needed a certain connector combo (male/female) Ended up buying an entire harness off of www.car-part.com for ~75$. I then cut and used what I needed, spliced it in, and it works like a charm now. But, having to buy an entire harness for one connector = . Although I DO have it for future use, just seems excessive having to buy the entire unit.
I've had similar problems where I needed a certain connector combo (male/female) Ended up buying an entire harness off of www.car-part.com for ~75$. I then cut and used what I needed, spliced it in, and it works like a charm now. But, having to buy an entire harness for one connector = . Although I DO have it for future use, just seems excessive having to buy the entire unit.
#3824
#3825
Same here. I have never figured out why some of them so willingly dump crap cars on their customers. I had a friend who owned a "buy here pay here" lot and his philosophy was that people don't make payments on cars that break down all the time. He had a full time mechanic on staff that went through each car before they went on the lot.
#3826
the person who bought the car is more responsible...you should never buy a car that you havent checked out.
my oil consumption problem didnt start until almost 2 years after i bought it. that isnt the dealerships fault...thats nissans fault. i ordered new pistons since it has to be opened up to replace the rings that are causing the problem. im talked to daveb many times about this and i still disagree with the precat thing. there are people who got headers early on and still developed oil consumption. its just bad rings on some engines.
my oil consumption problem didnt start until almost 2 years after i bought it. that isnt the dealerships fault...thats nissans fault. i ordered new pistons since it has to be opened up to replace the rings that are causing the problem. im talked to daveb many times about this and i still disagree with the precat thing. there are people who got headers early on and still developed oil consumption. its just bad rings on some engines.
Last edited by SoonerFan; 11-19-2007 at 08:52 PM.
#3827
, i had autozone clear all the codes and the engine started up and remained in the safe mode where its basically running real rich and slow, but im gonna take it to the shop hoping that whantever code is in it now is whats wrong
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-19-2007 at 10:56 PM.
#3829
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 385
Knocking during Idle...
My car seems to run fine... no smoke... but when im stopped at intersections... and idleing with normal temperature... i can feel knocking comming from the engine.... i know its really hard to explain sounds..... but it wasnt a ticking... or clicking... but a knock.. that i can feel... and slightly hear... its not severe or anything.. just a little nudge
when reving... i dont feel/hear it...
iv been using premium gas since i bought it..... but iv only had it for 3k miles... car is 123k old.... dont know what the previous owner did
or could it be a motormount thing?
knock sensor?...
My car seems to run fine... no smoke... but when im stopped at intersections... and idleing with normal temperature... i can feel knocking comming from the engine.... i know its really hard to explain sounds..... but it wasnt a ticking... or clicking... but a knock.. that i can feel... and slightly hear... its not severe or anything.. just a little nudge
when reving... i dont feel/hear it...
iv been using premium gas since i bought it..... but iv only had it for 3k miles... car is 123k old.... dont know what the previous owner did
or could it be a motormount thing?
knock sensor?...
#3830
ok so i pulled the code that was in there after i cleared all the other ones and drove it a lil and its p0138 an o2 sensor. thats it, do you think this single 02 sensor could be causing my car to run crappy, it just seams to run outta steam after 3.5k rpm. and the intake sounds real throaty, ive heard about the engines going into "limp mode" and losing power. so my quiestion is do you think an o2 sensor will put the car in limp mode. the other wierd thing is there was only that code, and the CEL isnt lit, because i know i have a P0650 which is a CEL circuit failure... should i just throw a new freakin sensor in it and hope it runs? this is what IMO i think the engine is doing VVVV
but wouldnt this CAUSE the o2 sensor to go out? or will the o2 sensor put the engine into this mode. the manual does say that the A/F ratio is stoichiometrically controlled by oxygen sensor 2.
but wouldnt this CAUSE the o2 sensor to go out? or will the o2 sensor put the engine into this mode. the manual does say that the A/F ratio is stoichiometrically controlled by oxygen sensor 2.
Last edited by 02SE6MT; 11-20-2007 at 02:08 PM.
#3834
thank you, i was assuming the same having previous cars run fine with the o2 sensor out. so i got 2 codes right now BOTH p0138, and the car is reeaal sluggish..alright guys well i really appreciate your help and hopefully ill get my car back soon
#3835
It will make it a helluva lot easier to help you instead of posting in 5 different threads when honestly you should consolidate your problem.
It seems as if it is an extensive problem, so, it's good idea.
#3836
I think it's time for you to get out of your shell, and post a brand new THREAD about it. While creating this thread, provide all applicable information (i.e. what the problems are, what you've done to date etc)
It will make it a helluva lot easier to help you instead of posting in 5 different threads when honestly you should consolidate your problem.
It seems as if it is an extensive problem, so, it's good idea.
It will make it a helluva lot easier to help you instead of posting in 5 different threads when honestly you should consolidate your problem.
It seems as if it is an extensive problem, so, it's good idea.
#3837
#3838
#3840