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Phenolic Spacer Development for VQ35s

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Old 05-01-2007, 12:08 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You've been here long enough to know this is a known problem though.
Yes, but it was NOT a known problem when I did it. So I guess what I am saying is that the way I did it (opening butterfly with gas pedal) seemed to work without any consequences. Whether it was dumb luck or I actually did something a little different than others that works, I am not sure..........
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:36 PM
  #482  
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Hey has anyone had the issue of rough idle while in reverse? Cause for some reason my car shakes a bit when I'm in reverse. My idle when in reverse is at around high 600s. Does anyone knwo why this is? Also is that normal to be idling at high 600s in reverse with the brake applied and not moving?
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:56 PM
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Can anybody help me on that?
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:15 PM
  #484  
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Idle value is fine. The engine is in a different load direction when in reverse. It may be that the new spacers cause the IM/UIM to sit a touch higher and rub against something and case a rough idle.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:19 PM
  #485  
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I know that it isn't touching anything nor is it rubbing anything. I do know that it is really close to my strut bar but I still have a tiny bit of clearance.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:33 PM
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Even in reverse?
Originally Posted by Me
The engine is in a different load direction when in reverse.
Pull eBrake, put in reverse, check said strut bar clearance.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:35 PM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Even in reverse?


Pull eBrake, put in reverse, check said strut bar clearance.
Hm.....I never tried that. I'll go see tonight.
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:01 PM
  #488  
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In reverse, your motor twists in the opposite direction. So the elbow will actually RAISE upward when in reverse. I could be touching the bar.

In drive, the elbow will LOWER.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:04 PM
  #489  
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Yeah Aaron and I noticed that during installation...
My bar had plenty of clearance, but with other bars it could get get really close.
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:04 AM
  #490  
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Yeah mine is actually touching in reverse I think.
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:07 AM
  #491  
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Put one set of washers under the strut bar, that should help out.
Heck, with the SFC's you won't even need that stupid bar
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:24 AM
  #492  
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Well the bar is for bling anyways since it doesn't do much. And when you mean one set, as in 3 washers right? Just making sure.
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:10 AM
  #493  
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my FSTB was close to touching so I installed washers on each stud (3 on each side)
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:26 AM
  #494  
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so 1 set of washers will do or should I do 2 sets?
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:14 AM
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Will people mention what kind of strut bar they have? I have a custom maxima one and there is hardly any clearance as is... I'm running 1 set of washers too. I've read somewhere that it's not a good idea, however, to use washers w/ strut bolts. Any comments on this? I obviously didn't think it was a big deal and have been using washers for the last 3 years or so..
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:23 AM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by The Law
so 1 set of washers will do or should I do 2 sets?
Why not try it out and see where you get with it?
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Why not try it out and see where you get with it?
lol.

10char
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:20 PM
  #498  
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If you have purchased spacers from me, I would greatly appreciate it if you would leave feedback. I will do the same in return. Thanks.
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:32 PM
  #499  
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Can someone give me some install info on these before I buy them

1.) Will i have to remove the fuel rails?

2.) Will I have to remove the injectors?



any thing else?

I removed the upper manifold before and it was easy so I had to ask.


i was looking at this thread and the guys are talking about buying new injector seals and etc.... http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...project-q.html
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:36 PM
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Do you have a set yet? If not, it's in the instructions, and those can be found on Aarons site. And no, you do not have to remove the rails. With that said, well, I'll let you figure out the other ?.
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Old 05-03-2007, 06:35 AM
  #501  
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Originally Posted by maxspeed96CT
Can someone give me some install info on these before I buy them

1.) Will i have to remove the fuel rails?

2.) Will I have to remove the injectors?
Aaron has the instructions posted on his website, download them and take a look to see if the install is something that you're comfortable with. It will also answer your questions.

Also, see his response to you the first time you asked this:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=343
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:20 AM
  #502  
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Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Also, see his response to you the first time you asked this:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=343
Now that is sass.
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:38 PM
  #503  
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it is not a good idea to put washers under the strut braces. This may cause the strut bar to move laterally and mess up the threads that it is bolted to. Lot's of people do it, but personally I don't think it is a good thing to do.
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:46 AM
  #504  
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so how many of you who done this did not come across any problems? thinkin about getting one later when summer comes around.
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:45 PM
  #505  
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Well I just installed this today along with my berk intake. Install was pretty strait forward. That bracket below the elbow was the biggest pain in the *** to get off. Started just fine and i did the idle air volume procedure just for the hell of it after driving around a bit. As far as butt dyno is concerned my intake will throw off how much the spacers helped, but it does get up and go better then before.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:13 PM
  #506  
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Anyone have anymore thoughts on these?
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:17 AM
  #507  
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Originally Posted by machinehead131
Anyone have anymore thoughts on these?
well worth the money.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:28 AM
  #508  
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I just wanted to let everybody know that the VQ35DE spacer kits are no longer on backorder.

http://www.nissanworks.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html

Thank you.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:53 AM
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aaron i forgot to ask, if we have these installed and ever have to take em off to do a spark plug change or IM change(Kinetix) will we need to scrape off the old RTV and re-apply???
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by opanick
aaron i forgot to ask, if we have these installed and ever have to take em off to do a spark plug change or IM change, will we need to scrape off the old RTV and re-apply???
i did when i took the IM off to change the coils.

you could probably just apply some more on top of the old. the old stuff was pretty much smoothed out when everything was tightened.
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Old 05-16-2007, 08:26 AM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by opanick
aaron i forgot to ask, if we have these installed and ever have to take em off to do a spark plug change or IM change(Kinetix) will we need to scrape off the old RTV and re-apply???
I recommend that you remove all the old RTV and then reapply to be certain you get a good intake seal.
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Old 05-16-2007, 06:42 PM
  #512  
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hey aaron;

I'm not really interested in removing my LIM to make this whole kit happen, and I know you mentioned at a later date that you would have this kit available in stages. My question is; what is the performance difference between just having the spacers from the top of the LIM up to the TB versus the whole kit? so far I understand that there's an extra 30deg+ of heat pulled off the IM just from the thin LIM ones, but do you have numbers for the HP/Tq?
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:39 PM
  #513  
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Originally Posted by Maxim(a)SerjVQ
hey aaron;

I'm not really interested in removing my LIM to make this whole kit happen, and I know you mentioned at a later date that you would have this kit available in stages. My question is; what is the performance difference between just having the spacers from the top of the LIM up to the TB versus the whole kit? so far I understand that there's an extra 30deg+ of heat pulled off the IM just from the thin LIM ones, but do you have numbers for the HP/Tq?
I have not tested before and after dyno runs with every stage of my kit. But the lower IM showed a HUGE decrease in temperature! I was very surprised my material insulated as well as it did even with it being a 1/16" for the LIM spacers. The rest of the kit insulates even more since it's 1/4" thick. But the LIM spacers really proved themselves as a VERY beneficial addition to the kit. If I didn't think it helped, I would not add it to the kit. In fact, the LIM spacer helped so well, I am contemplating on not offering the different stages of kits. I don't want to sell a product and have someone saying it doesn't help.

If I did offer a stage kit where the LIM spacers wouldn't be included, it will be around $200 instead of $225. If you are still interested in purchasing a kit w/o the LIM spacers, then please contact me directly and I will give you a set price on your custom kit. XXXaaron@nissanworks.comXXX
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:18 PM
  #514  
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nah. I'm starting to get the impression that if i were to get only a fraction of the whole kit, that the most important pieces are the ones directly bolting to the LIM. I just am seeing so far that the UIM is cake so long as you dont futz with the TB, and the LIM is a pita thanks to the fuel rails. I guess it wouldn't be worth it if it wasn't work, lol. I'll get with you later when I'm in a position to order something
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:22 AM
  #515  
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Originally Posted by Maxim(a)SerjVQ
and the LIM is a pita thanks to the fuel rails.
Explain further please You do not have to remove them if that's what you're getting at.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:40 AM
  #516  
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Originally Posted by Maxim(a)SerjVQ
nah. I'm starting to get the impression that if i were to get only a fraction of the whole kit, that the most important pieces are the ones directly bolting to the LIM. I just am seeing so far that the UIM is cake so long as you dont futz with the TB, and the LIM is a pita thanks to the fuel rails. I guess it wouldn't be worth it if it wasn't work, lol. I'll get with you later when I'm in a position to order something
The LIM is VERY easy to remove once the UIM is off. You don't have to release the fuel pressure and you don't have to remove the fuel rails. You keep the fuel rails and all the injectors attached to the LIM. You remove the 8 nuts and bolts on the LIM and lift it straight up. There is plenty of slack in the fuel hose in order to remove the LIM from the heads and sit it on the rear (RH) valve cover on its side.

You can read over the instructions on my website:

http://www.nissanworks.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html

But removing the LIM is the easy part of the install.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:41 AM
  #517  
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You're too patient Aaron.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:47 AM
  #518  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You're too patient Aaron.
What? You mean me entertaining everyones' questions? I don't mind it at all. I'm supporting my product.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:52 AM
  #519  
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Makes sense, I would be the same way... for Customer Service.
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Old 05-17-2007, 11:05 AM
  #520  
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the lower collector is easy to remove...the rails stay on

you can see it in that picture. you just flip it over and out of the way

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