Maxim(a)SerjVQ

lol sooner I was getting the impression from your original description of what you did. I guess nothing's ever as hard as it looks :P

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

VERY true... 90% of the time.
The other 10%.... it's 400 times harder than you expected.
Like LCA bushings.....

Bufflomike

Are they going to install the spacers in your new engine? Do you think that contributed to your oil loss at all?

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

you talking about a hot intake manifold? or the spacers causing oil loss? cuz you realize, of course, that Sooner burns more oil than a refinery on the first day of summer WITH a 100% stock manifold...

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

my ENGINE has been burning oil for 25K miles
spacers installed for about 1K miles



Edited for NmexMAX

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Seems like a personal problem to me.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Aaron, what parameters did you use on the 3.5 dyno runs on Homedyno? I am currently doing some testing and want to get it as close as I can before I install the spacers.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

This is copied from the OUT file. With all my dyno runs, the parameters were exactly the same, even the weather. The weather did not change at all in the 2 hours I needed to install the spacers.

I raised the curb weight because there were two people in the car and he had other items in the car during the dyno runs.

If you want power to the wheels, you want 0% drivetrain loss. But I tweeked this parameter to show more realistic results comparable to the average chassis dyno results.

The most important thing is the have the same exact parameters before and after. I did testing on the same day, the same exact section of road, and same exact warmup procedure to get a hot motor.

So you have Home Dyno or Road Dyno? If you already have Home Dyno, then I will have to tell you how to make the cable. I spent several hours changing the cable in order to get it to work in the 2K2 Maxima. I already had a lot of experience making the cable since I had to get it working in the VE first. The schematic on the Home Dyno website will not work with the 2K2 Maxima.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

--------------------------
Home Dyno v2.32
2002 Maxima 6spd CAI, Catback. 2nd gear pull

Test Weight: 3700 lb
Engine Type: 4 stroke
Tranny Type: M
TC Stall RPM: N/A
Axle Ratio: 3.812
Test Gear: 1.944
Tire Width: 245 mm
Tire Aspect: 40 %
Wheel Diameter: 18 inches
Drag Coeff: 0.32
Drivetrain Loss: .13
Air Temp: 59 F
Rel. Humidity: 27 %
Barometer: 29.87 In
Elevation: 90 Ft
Correction Fact: 0.965 SAE
-----------------------------

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I have home dyno. I have been using the signal from the ECU to #1 plug wire. I wired in a resistor that took the audio down to a level that didn't load down the signal to the coil. Seems to get an acceptable wav file.

If you have another method I will try it as well.

Thanks
Jim

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

The problem with the VQ35DE is that it's hard to get a clear signal. I had to remove the resistor completely in order to get a loud enough signal for my laptop to record. I had the recording volume maxed out too. I guess the laptop has a lot to do with it since you don't seem to have run into the same problems I did.

I could not use the low voltage signal either. I had to remove the coil pack, wire in a high tension wire and then tap into that signal.

The low voltage signal had way too much noise for me to work with it.

If I have to dyno another car, I will just use Road Dyno since you don't have to rewire the cable everytime you want to use it on a different vehicle.

BigFly_2K2SE

iTrader: (1)

I sure would appreciate a little assistance from those that have done this already. I left Aaron a PM but I thought I would post here as well. I am pretty new to DIY stuff like this, so please bear with me.

I basically finished installing these spacers as well as new spark plugs and have everything back together. The problem is that when I look back through Aaron's instructions I realized that I "missed" a couple of steps.

First, in step 8, you undo the two coolant hoses near the TB and install the coolant bypass fitting. I did not do this step, what is it for? I just connected all the hoses back together the way they were originally.

Second, the support bracket Aaron mentions in step 10........I forgot to remove it. As I said above, I now have everything back together and it "appears" it all fit together fine. Is it possible to put everything back together without removing this bracket? The bracket has two bolts that used to bolt to the UIM. These holes obviously don't line up anymore, but it seems as if everything is back together and sitting fine.

Thanks in advance for the help everyone.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The coolant bypass will allow the IAT's to be even cooler since no hot coolant will be flowing through the TB. The bracket is fine. Leave as is.

elcid98

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like the UIM/Elbow is sitting flush with the bracket as opposed to on top of it. Frankly, I'm curious how you did this given the thickness of the elbow spacer. I didn't have such luck ... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=523970

IMHO, take the bracket off. If you ever have to go back and remove the UIM again you could easily forget about the bracket, especially if you didn't need to be aware of it when removing the UIM. Situate the UIM incorrectly, start torquing down the bolts and POP ... you've got a cracked UIM. Better safe than sorry.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

First off, you have PM.

Second, NmexMAX is right about the coolant bypass fitting.

Last, elcid98 is right about the bracket. With the testing I've done on the 5.5 and 6th gen Maxima, I don't see how the UIM could possibly seat properly on the LIM with the Elbow spacer installed. Since the elbow spacer moves the elbow 1/4" closer to the firewall, this bracket will keep the UIM from sealing properly on the LIM.

Maybe your car is different though. If you have driven the car and you don't have any leaks, then you can leave that bracket. But if your bracket looks anything like what I'm thinking, it will prevent the UIM from sitting flat on the LIM.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

there is no way that everything will seal properly with that bracket in place. even without the spacers, the elbow barely clears the bracket.

BigFly_2K2SE

iTrader: (1)

Got your PM, thanks. I am going to respond and send you a couple of pictures.

I have now driven the car and I still think everything is fine. I did not get any CEL which I assume would be the case if I did not have things seated properly.

Just to be clear that we are talking about the same bracket (not that it matters because I did not remove ANY brackets), but the bracket in question is located on the lower back side of the elbow connecting the TB to the UIM. It is about 3" from the firewall and has two bolts that used to connect to the TB elbow. Correct? I would like to take a picture to be sure, but is pretty difficult to get a visual back there although you can easily feel with your hands.

In any case, I felt back there and the UIM bracket is not sitting on top of this bracket, it is inside of it. In other words, if the bolt holes still lined up, which they obviously don't, I could actually bolt this back together.

Also, as a side note, I have an Otto FSTB installed as well and it still clears the UIM. It is close, mind you, but there is still a small gap. I would assume this would not be the case if my UIM was not sitting flush on the LIM.

Not sure how I got this to work.....the only thing that I can think is that somehow the bracket got "pushed" towards the firewall when I was bolting everything up and it moved enough to allow the UIM to slide in? I guess for now I'll count myself lucky and make sure I remember to read the instructions a little more carefully next time!

As a side note, I went back and installed the TB coolant bypass. However, given the fact that I can easily see temperatures around -40F in the winter, I think I'll take this bypass out in the fall.

BigFly_2K2SE

iTrader: (1)

On another note, I just want to add a brief review of these spacers.

First off I want to say that my whole purchasing experience with these spacers was fantastic. Being located in Canada made life a lot more difficult for Aaron throughout this transaction. He still went out of his way to accomodate me and shipping costs were very reasonable. If only customer service was like this everywhere! Fellow Canadians, DO NOT hesitate to jump on this!

The install itself went pretty well (ignoring the bracket problem above) considering it was my first time doing something like this. I used Aaron's instructions in conjunction with the spark plug removal instructions on greghome. I would like to reiterate to those doing the same to MAKE SURE you still refer back to Aaron's instructions so you don't miss any steps. That's how I ended up forgetting to remove the bracket and install the coolant bypass.

Taking the car for a drive after, I can't honestly say that I noticed much difference. However, my butt dyno might be a little out of tune because I don't drive this car every day. I will say that the car "felt good". I will also add that even after driving the car around in a spirited fashion for about 20 minutes, I could still put my hand on the top of the UIM without burning it. The spacers are obviously working because there is no way I could have done this before.

All in all, I would say this is a very worthwhile mod and I would highly recommend it to everyone.

opanick

iTrader: (1)

THANKS AARON!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hey the smaller stickers, what kinda heat can those take?? I was thinking of putting them by the radiator where there is open space.

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

hmm, this thread gets bumped the same moment I was thinking about them. . .I guess it might be time for a purchase...

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

got mines today too.. they are pretty sweet. thanks aaron!!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

You're welcome! The smaller stickers are high quality vinyl. I'm sure they will withstand high temps. If you put them on the cross brace in front of your radiator, instead of ON it, you should be just fine. If for some reason anybody needs more stickers, just let me know and I'll send some out, especially if you promise to put it on your car.

BTW, where do 5th genners put nice die cut decals? On the 3rd gen, it looks best in the fixed rear window, but that window is too small on the 5th gen. Just curious what you guys do.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Is anybody planning on going to Maxus? If so, please shoot me a PM. Thanks.

opanick

iTrader: (1)

its kinda dark in the pic but here

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

So you can roll down the window without the decal getting damaged?

With my decals, they appear to be just as nice as the Maxima.org decals I got several years ago. If you properly clean your window before application, they should last quite a while.

opanick

iTrader: (1)

yea well I hardly ever roll the back window down but the times i have they have never rolled back off the glass, I just have some black crap on some of the lettering which scrubs off when I wash

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I see. That's good to know. Thank you.

opanick

iTrader: (1)

no, thank you for making bad*ss die cut decals!!!!!!!!!!!

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I'm probably going to Maxus, Aaron.
The car should have some new goodies by then

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

got my sticker on. thanks Aaron

opanick

iTrader: (1)

aaron i havent put mine on yet, but are all of them white???

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

mine are silver

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

No they are all silver.

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

Aaron i installed my today, but couldnt get the idle air volume leaning procuder down , i did all the steps, but when i did the 20 second hold the MIL never went off??

tried a few times, I must be doing something wrong. Do the seconds have to be on the dot?

Can i just use my ODB 2 scanner ?


The car felt powerfull, but throttle response felt terrible, throttle had a huge delay......

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

It's really hard.
Took me quite a few times to get it right.
Reset your ECU and do everything again.
Have a stopwatch with you.

Mike

PS: Great lookin wheels!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

As blackmaxx96 said below, you must have a stopwatch with you. A watch with a second hand is barely accurate enough. The timing has to be spot on.

If your idle is fine, then there is no reason to do the idle air volume learning procedure.

All you have to do is do the Throttle Release Learning procedure and maybe the throttle valve closed learning procedure. If you still experience problems, then reset the ECU as blackmaxx96 mentioned. If that doesn't help, then do the Idle Volume procedure.

My instructions say only to do the Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure if you experience a high or erroneous idle.

Give it a try several more times. I think you'll get it.

Also, I don't have any experience with your specific OBD II scanner. Unless you have a Consult device, then you'll have to do the steps manually as outlined in the instructions.

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

thanks, got it down good today, also did the system reset thats in the stickies.

The spacers sound awsome, my intake wistles like crazy if im just crusin

NISMAX03

iTrader: (4)

Hopefully installing the spacers this weekend.........

Decoy036SPD

iTrader: (1)

you don't need a stopwatch... I recommend when installing these you should definitely keep the battery unplugged. As with any major modifications. Then reset the ecu and re-learn the throttle body. Aaron do you still have the blemished spacer kit for the cheaper price or not? just curious on the price of the entire kit again with shipping?

Decoy036SPD

iTrader: (1)

Oh by the way soon I will be purchasing a set... just getting together money and figuring out my budget. Got to pay my car note, cell phone, and 2 credit card bills first so it might be two weeks. Then I will need tires, engine mount inserts, battery relocation kit, rear brakes, ATE clutch fluid, and a custom intake made by yours truly which I might mass produce for resale if all goes as planned.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Don't put that shiz on the gravel man!