Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

That's ok. Talk as much as you want if it has to do with the spacers. The more information I get, the better I can warn others on my instructions that I include with the spacer kits.

When I installed these on the test vehicle, he also got a check engine light. It went away when he did the Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure. He didn't get the actual code checked, but it must have been a high idle issue that he was experiencing.

The Law

iTrader: (39)

I guess I'll have to try the idle air volume learning procedure to see if it will clear the code.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

As soon as I did all the learning procedures the engine light went away and the car drove/idled perfectly.

Epacy

iTrader: (6)

So no noticeable butt dyno increases?

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

would it be different if you cleaned the TB on the car or off the car? i remember when i first got my intake i cleaned the TB and i remember pushing on the plate to open it and clean it. but i never got a CEL for it. Have you tried doing the ECU reset procedure?

BLK2BLU

iTrader: (4)

butt dyno says: increase from ~2.4K to about 3.5K...nothing too big but still more than was. IIRC the dyno graph said the power was more from 3K to about 4.5K

97gshogun

iTrader: (1)

so how many of you have the spacers and notice a gain? and/or lack there of?

The Law

iTrader: (39)

I have them and butt dyno says little.

97gshogun

iTrader: (1)

little like? 5 or 10?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

IAT data needs to be captured. Even though our IAT's are in the MAF, IMO, still a viable comparison.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

havent driven my car since yesterday, im waiting to fix my idle issue on monday.
after that, i will be able to tell more better.

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

just installed the spacers, and man.. i am soo happy i got this. i cleaned my tb but did not push on the plate. i did all the resetting procedures including the ECU reset and the 3 others. when i first started it.. it idled weird but then smoothed out.. my injen intake whistles loudly and the exhaust rumbles deeper.. good pick up around 3.5 and up.. im sure the exhaust will sound much better when i get my HKS so the frankencar is gonna be gone soon. good luck to everyone else.. i just suggest resetting everything.

Epacy

iTrader: (6)

So, your idle is fine?

n3985

iTrader: (36)

dizmax96, you have a Frankencar muffler? I have a HKS Sport muffler, want to trade?

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

yeah. my idle is all good. i sprayed the TB with brake clean and wiped the inside and outside. i did not move the throttle plate, but i sure did use a lot of brake clean. Like i said i did all of the reset procedures starting with the ECU reset and then the accel pedal release, throttle valve closed, and then idle air volume learn. when i first started the car it idled rough but then smoothed out.

i dont think you would want the frankencar. just recently its been acting normal, im guessing its becuz of the warm temps now. but man.. it rattles when its cold. its annoying like hell. i want to get rid of it, but i dont want to be like ripping someone off. and i already have the HKS on order. you dont like your HKS?

n3985

iTrader: (36)

The HKS sounds great, but it is really loud around 2,000-2,500rpm and drones like mad on the highway.

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

Got the car dynod yesterday at the cpt meet. the car was run on a dyno dynamics dyno. it was about 80* Outside. the car put down 200Hp and 215Tq

Theyears02

are those stock(with spacers) numbers or what? 6spd or auto?

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

we need a baseline and/or graphs for your information to be of any use

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

FYI,
i will be able to give everyone my impressions after i get my throttle body replaced tomorrow.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm going to said humblemaker on Thursday, hopefully mine will show up before then so I can install them and compare IAT's before then.

Cripes, what do you fellas do to your TB's when you clean them? Play catch/bounce them and bounce them at least 3x before reinstalling them?

Epacy

iTrader: (6)

Replaced? That was the outcome of the dealer visit? ECU flash no worky?


Below is another example of someone cleaning the TB, but not moving the butterfly valve.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

they tried numerous times but it wouldnt take due to the eratic idle.
he quoted me around $430 which included the TB, the install, and the learning procedures. after talking to him and making some calls (to let him know i was trying to find the part for cheaper) he quoted me $380. then he said he would wave the reprogram fee since i had already paid for them to do that to try and fix the problem. so i will be paying $282.

coinage

iTrader: (10)

I just got done installing these, ive have yet to see the erractic idle... i did all the learning procedures, idles very smooth at a hair above 700. Now, is that where it should be idling?

TIA,
Matt

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Who cares what butt dyno says.
There are actual dyno charts to prove the gains.
We spent hours flogging and testing my car, and it wasn't even running perfectly (coil going bad) and it showed considerable gains.

Wait till you drive it on a hot summer day after sitting in traffic for 20 minutes... you'll notice a difference then..

opanick

iTrader: (1)

my car idled just fine after spacers install, but I did not touch the TB at all, it was hard to resist cleaning this:

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

yeah...i couldnt control myself
i guess my new one will be clean

Epacy

iTrader: (6)

Mad-suck'n. They flash it or do the re-learn procedure? The re-flash from the MAF TSB is what was done to mine.

Good work on getting the extra lube before the dealer comes in.

Need a sitcky of all stickies saying not touch the butterfly valve. Costing people money. Unless you are under 80,000 miles. You get the reprogram for free.

Theyears02

did you at least spray it with TB cleaner? i think that would at least help a little. when the car is on (ign on, engine off), does pressing the gas move the throttle plate? if so you could just take the TB off, press the gas a little with a brick or something and clean it with a q-tip. also, is there a solid stop on the valve so that it doesnt go past 0% open? if so you could just keep it up against that with a finger or something while cleaning both sides. i dont think i would recommend those to anybody unless someone under 80k or are already gonna change TB tests it first. im probly gonna just use TB cleaner spray

There has to be a way to safely clean it, we just need to find that procedure

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I moved the TB butterfly/sprayed it, etc. Unplugged the battery for 35 hours, and all is well.

If worse came to worse, I would have gone to www.car-part.com for a replacement.

This is what I've found re: throttle plate movement with respect to pedal input when car is off.

Not sure in the MT, but in the auto, the gear selector must be in any drive gear, and the key in the 'on' position (engine doesn't need to be on though)

nismopc

iTrader: (3)

If the engine temps are too high, the re-flash will not take. The dealer I dealt with had the tech put two industrial fans in front of car and cool down to correct temp and finally got the flash to take.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

210*F is the cut-off IIRC,

And that's pretty damn high.

nismopc

iTrader: (3)

I recall mine being closer to 218-219*F - I had just did a hard run for about 1 mile right before heading into the dealer.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

FSM states 210*F. (99*C) SO that makes sense, your car was too hawt.

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

if i had a scanner i would like to post it. there is no baseline because this was the first time i have dyno'd the car. i have an injen intake, spacers, ypipe, and catback. like i said before.. the car was run on a dynodynamics dyno.. so all those that are reading and sayin "man those are low numbers" the car would be putting down somewhere between 220-230hp on a dynojet dyno. right now im thinkin about gettin the TS Ecu. ill see if the tuner can send me the files so i can post them. but other than that.. i dont have any before dyno's.
heres wat my AFR range was for the best runs: (2nd dyno/3rd dyno)
2800 - 14.4/13.8
2900 - 13.6/13.2
3000 - 13.3/13.0
3100-3300 - 13.2/13.1
3400 - 13.4/13.4
3500 - 13.8/13.6
3600 - 14.1/13.9
3700 - 14.2/14.1
3800 - 14.1/13.9
3900 - 13.9/13.8
4000 - 13.9/13.9
4100 - 14.0/14.0
4200 - 14.2/14.2
4300 - 14.4/14.4
4400 - 14.4/14.4
4500 - 14.5/14.5
4600-4800 - 14.6/14.6
4900 - 14.5/14.5
5000 - 14.4/14.5
5100 - 14.4/14.4
5200 - 14.2/14.4
5300 - 13.8/14.2
5400 - 13.8/14.1
5500 - 13.9/14.1
5600 - 13.9/14.0
5700 - 13.9/14.0
580-6200 slowly tapers down to 13.9 on both..

didnt notice it until now that he didnt run it to redline.. but watever.. you can see that it stays in the 14s for the most part.

what im happy about is that after driving the car on the beltway then coming home and opening the hood, i can put my hand on the IM and not burn it.. but feel a temperature that is lukewarm/room temp .. its so strange

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

the car had been sitting for about an hour before they tried it.

Theyears02

yeah, i think when i do this im gonna try holding the pedal down with something so the plate is open a little and using a q-tip to very lightly clean the plate, mostly with TB cleaner and just a very little amount of q-tip. hopefully that works. if not.....car-part

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I knew the consequences before I attempted it. Tried resetting ECU/IAVL 2 times. Unplugged the battery for 15 minutes and nothing. Put up with it for about a week, and had some extra time during the weekend and left it unplugged for 35hours.

This is after I had done all the research on it, and I tried everything that was free before thinking of spending money on it.

Some guys have seen it just go away, others have left the battery unplugged for a long time, and saw it get fixed. Others have had luck by doing the IAVL a couple of times, others have gone to the dealer and had them use the ConsultII and had good luck with it. Some actually have gone far as replacing both the ECU AND TB.

BigFly_2K2SE

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned the TB on my 2K2 a few years ago (before the horror stories started littering the ORG), and this is similar to what I did with success. I left the key on and propped the gas pedal to the floor to keep the butterfly open and went about my cleaning with TB cleaner and a rag.

However, I also remember moving the butterfly manually prior to propping the gas pedal down.

When I was finished, I got a CEL and a high idle. However, as soon as I performed the ECU reset, idle reset, and pedal learn procedures, all was well again and I haven't looked back.

I will not touch it again though.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You've been here long enough to know this is a known problem though.