thanks djcalvin the pics and the explaining are perfect, gonna try it today.

 

Do the penny trick wrapped in electrical tape. Works perfectly.

 

Birens relay is the ultimate solution. nearly 3 months and the woofer hasnt cut out a single time. cant go wrong with that !

 

Same with the penny trick. Hasn't cut out in the 3 months since I put it on. My resoldering trick didn't last unfortunately.

 

4 months on the paper trick and still working great. My previous comments about the bass not having the same punch were incorrect. I have to turn the volume down on some songs as they have a little too much bass. I guess it's just the poor quality of some of my MP3's.

 

mp3's and quality sound is an oxymoron anyway.
Different recordings are going to have different bass levels. And treble levels and midrange levels...

 

Interesting.

 

Why couldn't a small hole be drilled into the top of the relay case and then spray into it with some contact cleaner. It must have contacts in it and temp or ware seems to effect the clearances of the make and break gaps.

I think this relay only turns on the power to the small amp.

 

Been 8 months since I did the paper trick and it still hasn't cut out... I do have the problem with the volume on the steering wheel not always working...

 

I just registered so I could post in this thread. I stumbled across this while researching my wife's sub problem in her 2004 I35. This lead me down my own road of investigating an exact replacement relay. I ran across Mouser part number 769-CQ1-12V. This is an exact replacement. What I mean by that is the pins are in the same location and the physical dimensions are the exact same as the relay on the cross over board. I replaced the existing relay with this one and it works like a champ! Just thought I would pass this along.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
One of the best first posts I've seen.

 

Thanks. I may be new here, but I am far from new on car bulletin boards. I've been doing this before they became "forums" instead of BBS!
One thing I also noticed when removing the old relay is that the pins came loose very easy inside the relay as I was trying to get it released from the board. This is probably the source of the failure. If they came lose with just a small amount of wiggling, then they probably were lose already to begin with. Also, instead of searching for an exact part number, you can search for the type of relay it is, which is "CQ1-12V". I found them everywhere from ebay to Amazon. I opted for Mouser because I had just purchased a bunch of parts to make an attenuator from them and knew how much shipping would be and how long it would take. In other words, it was EASY!

 

The 3 cent fix worked for me. We'll see how long it lasts. I used a thin plastic material wrapped in cloth tape. If it goes out again, I may try replacing the relay.

 

hate to revive such an old thread but with the 3 cent fix how thick approximately is the paper/material you guys used when folded or put in, just thought knowing that would make it a little more quick and simple for me.

 

It'll need to be about 3/16" thick. An 1/8" will probably work, but you want it to press on that relay. I did mine about a month ago and it's been perfect ever since. I used a heavier cardboard type paper and just cut pieces to layer on each other and then wrapped it in some 3M Super 33+ (Real electrical tape)

 

so i did the 3 cent fix as we seem to call it lol, got the sub working now the only problem is it cuts out, so im guessing its a problem with the soldering points? would i be better off going with a whole new stock relay or a relay from the taiwan manufacturer earlier in the thread?

 

The "3 cent fix" wont always work because the vibrations from the sub can knock it loose. The problem is inside of the relay and has nothing to do with the solder points or "cold solder points" as some may call it. I still have the blue relay if you are interested email me bvmp4@yahoo.com

 

Gotta love the internet. Re-solder didnt work for me but the penny trick did. Im going to order a new relay (I have issues with duct tape fixes) but if the penny trick holds then I may just leave it. I had a rear speaker out and this issue with the sub. Fixed them both at the same time... BIG difference in the sound system.

 

Did the re-solder on my 01 SE. Been working great for about a month so far. Zero cut-out.

 

Ordered the relay from the post above and soldered it in today... works like a champ... hope this one holds up for a while.

 

A new relay seems to be the fix. I've had mine in for over a year without issue, (thanks Biren).

 

Any links on what to order?... I'm a sound noob... I also have n 01 n bose goes in n out

 

My Blose hasn't worked in cold weather for the past 5 years or so. No screen anytime, rain or shine, only my steering wheel buttons work, and only the power button on the head unit work.

FML

 

if anyone is interested i found a few of the blue relays, they had 5 in stock when i ordered mine for 89 cents. it looks to have all the same numbers as posted by biren41888. i will try to install it this weekend.

http://www.surplus-electronics-sales...roducts_id=580

 

ripping apart the sub and busting out the soldering iron can be a fun project untill you solder the **** out of every connection you see and it still doesnt work... Do what I did.. find an Infinity Bass Link on craigslist and wire it up using the bose sub stock wiring.. better bass and no cutting out! and you can find them for like 100 bucks now.. Plus my idiot friend thought I was running 2 10's back there after that..

 

Just buy the fukcing relay for $5 and fix the sub amp!

 

I replaced it this weekend with not too much trouble and I now have my base back . great fix thanks again..

 

No dice

 

I got tired of the cut out and i had already replaced the relay once before and the cut out happend again so i came to the conclusion that the relay was a POS and must go. so this is the end result remove relay and jump the circuit works perfect no problems whatsoever

 

 

Just throwing in my $.03 ...

My sub was cutting out constantly, tried the .03 cent trick about a week ago and it hasn't cut out once since.

I'll probably order the new relay redrocker posted (Mouser part number 769-CQ1-12V) anyway just to get it fixed right but the work around has been great so far...

 

Do you get a thump from the subwoofer when you turn the stereo on with the relay removed and the circuit jumped?

 

No not at all that was one thing i was kinda worried about when i first did it. I have had absolutely no after affects from removing the relay at all.

 

I am going to try the .03 fix, and if that doesnt work, I will do this. This is brilliantly simple.

Also, I am CONVINCED that biren had a source for those relays for less than a buck, and was selling them for $15, kept making new accounts to come on this thread and say how great they were.

I dont know how long the site keeps track of MACs and IP's, but if all of those can be linked to the same MAC (provided this fellow is not too smart), then he needs a ban. I just read through 5 pages of this thread and at least a page of it was either his or his troll accounts spam.

 

I know you uploaded this ages ago but can you tell me where you bought those relays? A link would be helpful. Thanks.

 

I think they are about impossible to find. They are (and have been) discontinued for a long time. Those relays arent any better than as far as design then the bose relay, but Bose bought the cheapest piece of crap relay they could find.

See this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-once-all.html

 

Some duct tape worked wonders for me. Before I may have heard a note or two per month from the sub, and since then it's been perfect.

 

dude this problem has been driving me crazy for months!!!!!!!!!! finally a solution.

 

This is a fix, but its not a definitive fix. The .03 trick works for many people, the resolder works for some others. Its better to replace the problem relay.

There is a detailed how-to in this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-once-all.html

 

I don't think so! I am a tech/computer geek and I came up with this solution because Bose integrated a cheap quality relay. I drove an hour to a warehouse to purchase these relays. I did not buy a lot because I didn't think people would actually pay $15 for...but surprise surprise, people did and I will guarantee if they soldered it right, it is still working for them! I did not create accounts just to sit around my computer and make my relays look good. I HAVE A LIFE, I am in grad school and for 40 hours a week. So stfu!

I sold them for $15 because I took time out of my busy schedule to drive an hour to the warehouse and but the relay...also pay for the bubbled envelope and shipping, I also gave detailed instructions on how to install it! For the people who bought relays off of me...how is the sub working for you??