nelledge

iTrader: (6)

FCPimport has a GroupDeal on a kit with control arms(with balljoint and bushings), tierods, and sway bar links for $140 shipped(call Ellison). Perhaps, you can call your local alignment shop and see if they'll let you bring the parts. I would think you could find a shop to do the labor with alignment for $350/500. Be nice to have new control arms in there as well for the same price.

All in all. I think the quote is fairly reasonable at today's labor rates if they install good parts. Ask your friends if they can recommend a shop they like. Better yet, hit up the local Maxima guys and see if someone wants to turn a wrench for you for a couple hundred.

00MAXX

Thanks, I will check out the kit. I usually do my own work on my max but have never done anything with these parts.

00MAXX

One stupid question, is there a difference between left and right inner and outer tie rods, I know there is a difference between inner and outer, but how bout left and right.

00MAXX

Im going to this job myself tommorow, I know at least the outers. This doesn't seem hard at all. Im going to go the hobby shop on base and get a lift and it should go by quickly, then I just need to take it to get aligned.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Moog advertises that all their parts as "problem solving" which means those Oem parts that had weaknesses and issues were redesigned to be vitually bulletproof, by use of polyurethane bushings, extra heavy duty bearing surfaces w/lubrication, heavy duty provisions, etc! No doubt even their balljoints and tierods are stronger and longer lasting units due to the boot material and bearing size!

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

The coupler has threads so you can back it off to the right distance so the valve can clip in properly. A little embarrassing that I didn't figure that out on my first pass, but there it is anyway. Thanks, DJ.

BTW, the noise was most likely either the end-link or the ball-joint, both of which were pretty thin on grease. And good thing that we put it on the lift to eyeball the situation, because my passenger side wheel bearing is getting loose, and I may not have been aware of this until next Spring otherwise.

Related? Actual cause for that (temporary) noise? I have no idea, but good to know about it now and get it replaced before it becomes a more significant issue.

exandr

iTrader: (3)

OK...I'm actually on a confrence call and didn't read this entire thread.

I have changed my lower ball joints, wheel bearings, and strut mounts with MOOG parts. Not only that, but I also chagned my struts out with Tokico Blues. I still hear this clunking noise that's driving my crazy.

My mechanic says I need rotors, which I already knew but I was trying to wait and get a BBK and rims/tires all at the same time. BUT...I need them asap. Anyway, my mech says I need outer tie rod ends. GO FIGURE! So, I'm embarking on that journey this weekend. This clunking noise is driving me crazy

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I've adopted a philosophy (kind of) that's been beaten into me by my mechanic, and a few of the mechanically-inclined guys here on the Org, and that is to replace things like this when they start to go bad, because you've got time.

However, my personal experience with front-end parts over the last 18 months is that once they start to go, it's like a cascading series of failures. End-links... ball-joints... tie-rod ends... wheel bearings.

Take from that what you will.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

My last set of Moog ball joints only lasted 6months. I am very disappointed. I know they are under warranty, but it doesn't cover the cost of the install, or time lost if you do it your self, alignment etc...

pkrainert

When I had my durango I replaced everything with Moog and I loved the fact that they were greasable. I don't know if the maxima's are greasable stock but I really liked that aspect of Moog. I replaced tie rod ends, sway bar bushings upper and lower ball joints and drove about 30k on them and they were awesome.

sasha87

i currently have moog stab links, stab bushings and all 4 moog tie rods. love em. once you go moog you never go back.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I must add my experience with MOOG.

Sway bar end links on my 4th gen:
Came loose 3 times after install. Finally lock-tighted the living crap out of them and got them to stay tight.

Ball Joint on my 4th Gen:
No problems

Sway Bar end links on my MX-6:
Lock tighted first time around, Came loose after install, lock-tighted AGAIN, stayed tight for 5000 miles, then broke.

Ball Joint on my Grand Am:
Different style, but no issues.

While they are bigger, they are surely not better (end-Links). I would take an OEM replacement over a MOOG any day of the week. They are mass-produced, and I feel, in the same league as Monroe products. That said, they do the job on the cheap. Upgrade though? No, they aren't.

Also, the fact that they're greasable is great for old school guys. Personally, I don't want to have to grease my car every oil change or every second oil change. Greasable joints cause more failure than non-greasable, that's a proven fact. The reason is, they don't get greased properly and in the right frequency, they get over greased, or under-greased. Also, the greases used are normally cheaper generic 'chassis' greases, which do not do as good of a job as the lubricants used in non-greasable type links.

Also, because they're greasable, the components are not made as well, or from the same quality of material, because they rely on the grease to form the barrier between the steel and do the 'work'. Non greasable components HAVE to be built better, with better components, because they work 'dry'

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

So to paraphrase, MOOG parts come loose when improperly installed, and you have no experience with them on your 5th gen.

Good to know, Matt.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Funny guy.

4th gen and 5th gen Chassis is so damn close to the same that comment is irrellevant.

All components were properly installed and torqued to spec. I have never had an issue with any other End link except the MOOG, they are the ONLY end link I've ever had come loose or break prematurely.

Just throwing my .02 out there of course. May be isolated incidents.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I'm back to a clunk in my front-end after only about 3k miles.

I still need to replace the inner tie rods, some engine mounts (fore and aft) and likely my sway bar bushings again.

But it seems like I'll need to get back under the car and re-tighten all my previous torquings.

i love my car, but DAMMIT I'm tired of this sloppy suspension feel, despite ALL the money and effort I throw at it!!

gr

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Nate, you've been living with this for YEARS now.

Do you think maybe it's time to stop with the DIY stubbornness, and find yourself a trusted mechanic?

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Stop being the voice of REASON John....!!

I CAn FIX it...I have an AWESOME set of tools!!

Ironically -- just last week, i tried to track-down my "favorite" mechanic at the local Nissan dealer, and unfortunately --he's not THERE any longer!!

gr

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

That's a great sig quote right there, in bold declaration that those statements have anything to do with one another. Funny guy.

Good luck, man. My front end is solid like a brick house. Better than new, even.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Dude -- Seriously!?
Did the fast times at ridgemont high quote just TOTALLY escape you?!
c'mon, I KNOW you remember that one!

The point of that statement was, yes John -- I'm about to stop pissing about with it myself, and turn it over to a pro.

We can't all be as lucky as you to have such an awesome wrench at our behest, that KNOWS how to tune as well!

Feel the love, man! Give a brotha a break, will ya?!?!?

gr

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Yep, I totally missed that movie quote. Damn it.

"Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it."

~ Jeff Spicoli

exandr

iTrader: (3)

Over the years, I've come to that realization as well. So, I look at it like this...it is what it is. On lunch, I picked up tie-rod ends. The only thing left is end-links. I'm patiently waiting.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

Riiiiiight, which is why vehicles like this: have greasable points ("zergs" as they call them) all over the thing: Suspension, fifth-wheel; you name it--it's got grease.

Fact: Greasable parts are the only realistic solution for trucks pulling 80,000 lbs and easily running for 600,000 miles without replacing any critical stock parts.

Source: Working for these guys.

My MOOG end-links were installed... in October? I am going to regrease them this weekend just 'cause I can't remember what quality the grease was we squirted in upon install. They aren't making any noise or giving any indication that they're not still working perfectly six months and ~6000 miles after the install.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Wow you really blew a hole in my statement, well done.
I was referring to Automotive applications only, but I did not specify that at all. And the main reasoning behind my statement was the fact that the components fail due to lack of grease or overgreasing.
Most Greasable automotive components are built cheaper than their non-greasable counterparts, this is not necessarily true of heavy applications, which, by the way, DO experiment with non-greasable parts, mostly on higher-end trucks.

You're correct about your statements though.

And It's "Zerk Fitting" I believe, your Moog component has a "zerk fitting" too, it's a Grease fitting's alternate name, named by it's founder.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

It is zerk, I typo'd.

I find no reason to believe that grease-able components are flimsier than their non-grease-able, "sealed" counterparts. I guess you're being sarcastic, but when critical items such as all u-joints on those ridiculously heavy driveshafts are greased, I fail to see why grease fittings are inferior to sealed variants, regardless of the application. If you take care of the component, you can get as much life out of grease-able variants--sometimes much more than the new-fangled "hermetically sealed" stuff.

Ha. Hermetically sealed.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Sometimes I think we over-analyze this stuff way-y-y too much. And I'm as guilty as the next guy here, I know that.

But they're basic hardware on a mid-range sedan. I'm sure both designs are equally satisfactory.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

lol.

Yeah, the key point there is "If you take care of the component". Greasable fittings leave it up to Human diligence, and there in lies the issue.
That's all I'm trying to get across really. OEM components (on small-mid sized vehicles) are non greasable, most OEM suspension components are designed to last at least half the life span of the car. With my past experiences and quite a few others, the Replaceable greasable suspension components just don't compare to that.

Yes, you're correct. Most of us will not see any substantial difference in quality if we maintain them. However, are you really going to drag out the slimy grease guy every oil change and check/grease the one or two fittings on the car? I think it's more likely we won't.

All that said, I do have a MOOG ball joint. I do grease it every once in a while, and I haven't had a problem. If Money was no object though, I would take the OEM component over the MOOG any day. Or even, a NON-greasable over a Greasable. No question.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about the slimy grease guy. (WTF, Matt?)

But a good quality grease gun is only $25 or thereabouts.

exandr

iTrader: (3)

You ppl kill me. Seriously.

@Roch...we do over analyze everything about our cars!

Some of us are borderline...

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ahaha nice. If I had a grease guy it wouldn't be an issue.

Yeah it wasn't the cost I was implying the overall additional work, as well as the general goopy, slimy, greasy nature of the job. The combination of which makes it unappealing, as such, it's something a lot of people would avoid, or 'push off'. Whatever though, even if you only grease them on install, the'll still be good for quite some time to come before they show any signs of wear.

Except the end links. I would never buy another one of those cheap *** endlinks again. Just my experience.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I think you should change your member title from the default, "Senior Member" tag, to the far more entertaining, "Slimy Grease Guy".

Barring that, maybe something for your side business.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

that last one hurt my feelings



I need to donate again

spock

iTrader: (5)

I guess if you want grease oozing out of your front end components so that you can add more grease - get Moog, and they'll last a year or so longer than non - greasable?